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Over the years I seem to have settled on a particular set of components and when frame swap time happens, I take them up to the new frame, renewing them where necessary.
To me, they are the bits that have performed best over my riding history.
Chain: was Sedis way back and now SRAM (cheapest 10 speed variant at the moment). Never had a breakage and never seen a breakage during my shop days. Easily the best and strongest 'magic link' system.
Cranks: Shimano SLX M660. Fitted with Shimano steel rings 24/38 and nylon outer chain ring guard. Been on 3 bikes so far. Not much heavier than XTR. Despite many crank end strikes, still look reasonably fresh. The graphics have NOT rubbed off!
Rims: anything by Notubes. Almost no bead seating failures using only a track pump. They are also very light. Geax AKA was the only tyre to need a compressor.
Hub/spokes: Hope or Superstar using J-bend spokes. Working in cycle retail, one of my regular tasks was to find a straight spoke to replace someone's broken one. Always a faff and a two week wait. J-bend spokes were usually replaced while the customer waited. (I worked in a 'major' family-owned group of stores)
Gear shifting system: SRAM 1:1. Using full cable outer, never a missed shift or 'going out of alignment'. Even the cheapest versions work flawlessly.
So what are your 'must have' components that are always on your bike? And why...?
SRAM drive train, grip shift why does nobody else get it
grip shift why does nobody else get it
I didn't like the idea ..until i tried it on my new bike...wow its ace. Not sure if id want it for my bigger bike, but for XC mincing its brilliant
Hubs - Son at the front Rohloff at the back.
An annual oil change for the Rohloff has been the only maintenance either has had in 9 years on an off road all year round commuter.
Thomson bits wherever I can.
Currently stem, elite dropper and seatpost collar. It works very well, never had any issues with it and I like the engineered look of them.
The things I almost never change are: KMC chains, Shimano drivetrain and brakes, renthal bars.
I've had other chains and sram and they are not as good. I will never have sram again after my current experience. Renthal bars have the perfect shape.
shimano deore runs forever.
gripshift user too. ace stuff.
brooks saddles.
pedals: wellgo.
they offer a wide choice of shapes, they're cheap, and the few pairs i've got are apparently indestructible.
dual control shifters... my new bike will be going 9 speed just so i can keep them. run them with a normal rear mech, works much better.
There are certain this I almost reflexively buy when I'm building a new bike, don't really look beyond them now.
Oury Lock-On Grips
Thomson Stems (Although my new trail bike has a Gamut.
SKS Mudguards
Chris King Headsets
Gore Rideon cables used to part of this list but now my is stash down to my last few sets, sad times.
Shimano brakes these days, fo sho.
Specialized helmets
Oakley glasses
China for carbon rims
Generally I'm open minded, I can think of plenty of things I 'prefer' or are my default choice, and would choose by preference if buying new, but certainly wouldn't get rid of something I had because it was 'wrong' - DT spokes, Mt Zoom handlebars etc.
Maxxis tyres because nothing else gets close to being reliable.
Shimano HTII cranks because they are simple and work.
Shimano spd pedals because they are bomproof and keep going despite getting abused.
Hope hubs and Stans rims agreed.
Shimano Zee clutch mech for chain retention and chain slap silence.
wipperman connex for chain links - easy peasy every time
Shimano for twist shift on children's bikes - much lighter on the hands than sram
Leffe Royale for fridge stock beer - always tasty
Bialetti stove top coffe maker - looks good even when it gets old and works well
Thomson for seatposts, adjust nicely, and so far seem robust.
ESI grips, still grippy even when it's wet, and so far wearing well.
Gripshift is great, it's big winter mitten friendly.
Thomson for stem/post/dropper.
Hope for brakes/hubs.
Easton for bars.
Some nice ones there.
Pedals: Shimano M530. Got 3 sets, one on each bike plus one set spare. They just work. Commuting-wise they allow rapid clip in and spin without any fluffing.
Tyres: Maxxis Minion as my go-anywhere training/general use tyre. Specialized Renegade S-Works if I'm being 'competitive'. They're surprisingly grippy and 'kin light! Both tyres go up with just a trackpump on Notubes rims.
Bialetti stove-top coffee maker - I take mine camping! It won't fit on a Trangia so it has it's own special stove!
Footwear: Shimano MT91 Boots. The pinnacle of SPD back-country footwear. Bomb-proof, grippy when off the bike, comfy, warm, dry (when water doesn't drip down into them!). Tough (for when I hit my feet on rocks and stuff when careering down lumpy trails)
Jacket: Paramo Velez Smock. Keeps me warm, cool and dry (as long as the DWR is refreshed often). £4.50 from a charity shop!
Eyewear: Oakley Fast Jacket XL. Like M-Frame without the dorky looks.
Oh, and Shimano gears/pedals.
sten1 - Memberdual control shifters... my new bike will be going 9 speed just so i can keep them. run them with a normal rear mech, works much better.
This, have one set on the Ht and another brand new set waiting to go on the new FS bike 🙂
Easton Bars, Oh and anything by Thomson!
Easton bars, I think my arms are now pretty much Easton shaped!! and ODI ruffian grips.
gloves: Has to be Troy Lee XC
Specialized lids, shoes + gloves
[b]Off road: [/b]
SDG Bel Air RL saddles
Thomson stem + post
Easton bars
Shimano XT drivetrain
[b]On road:[/b]
Conti tyres + tubes
Look Keo pedals
Shimano Ultegra drivetrain
Off road:
SDG Bel Air RL saddles
Thomson stem + post
Easton bars
Shimano XT drivetrain
And Time pedals 🙂
After many years of buying tat I've had it nailed for my last few bikes-
Forks- Rockshox.
Gears- Shimano.
Cranks- Race Face.
Saddles- SDG.
Pedals- Shimano.
Rims- Stans (though I currently run Easton, which are also fine).
Brakes- Shimano (I do have a rule for everything apart from hubs- if it's not Shimano then it's shite)
Bits- Race Face
The one that I struggle with is hubs. Shimano cup and cone is fiddly, Hope are heavy and the freehubs get munched. Easton go through bearings quickly. Superstar are pure evil. I had some Stan's hubs and they were good, though.
munrobiker - MemberThe one that I struggle with is hubs
Thats easy Chris King or DT Swiss 240 nothing else comes close!
Shimano - Drivetrain, pedals and brakes - They work and are reliable
Maxxis - tyres
Thats easy Chris King or DT Swiss 240 nothing else comes close!
OK, [i]affordable[/i] hubs!
xt hubs run forever, and take 10 mins to service.
[b]Thomson seatposts and stems[/b] - superbly made with a bulletproof finish. Strength and lack of any flex. Super reliable and always look good.
[b]Shimano gears[/b] - Well made and tough as old boots. Great shifting, ergonomic and easy to work on when required. Plenty of spares availability.
[b]Shimano brakes[/b] - reliable, plenty of power, easy to bleed and no nasty DOT fluid to contend with. Price is also surprisingly good when compared to some other (arguably lesser) competitors.
[b]ODI Grips[/b] - Original and best. Squidgy Ruffian prefered for all day rides. Excellent spares availability too.
[b]POWA Dfender front mudguard[/b] - superbly made to measure for Fox and RS forks. Fit like a glove and they just work. Well thought out compared to some of the Heath Robinson contraptions with zip ties and elastic bands.
[b]Specialized Saddles[/b] - they fit my (ample) derriere very well. The search for a comfortable saddle stopped here with me.
Hope hubs seem pretty bombproof my rear bulb hub is getting on for 15 years old now.
Easton Bars
Thompson stuff in general
KMC chains
WTB saddles
CK headsets, another everlasting product.
Shimano for chainsets, SLX particularly.
Light, strong, easy to fit/remove and available cheaper than most of the inferior rivals.
i'd like some new wheels for my commuter, because i'm a tart.
However, my current wheels run on cheapo 475 shimano hubs (even cheaper than deore). I serviced them once, when they were only 1 year old (5000km), and i packed them with grease.
Now i wish i hadn't because they seem up for the fight, and now 10,000km later, they still run beautifully. They just won't die, or even seem to start getting old.
15,000km from hubs that you can buy for £20. I have no doubt they'd double that with only a simple service if i wanted them to.
even the freehub still purrs nicely ffs.
Shimano Centrelock rotors & rapid rise rear mechs - luv em
Think Shimano have it sorted in terms of SPDs although I would like to see some competition from SRAM
Otherwise no real winners. Some brands put their name on anything simply to exploit a niche in the market. There's no consistency
Manufacturers or designers? Conti are probably the best tyre manufacturers but CST are probably the best designers. Or have the best designers submitting them designs anyway. SRAM might be the best gears ideas people but get beat in implementation and manufacture. Lezyne make beautiful badly thought out things, Topeak make adequate brilliantly thought out things. Mavic produce great stuff on some fairly ropey or ancient designs and concepts. And so on...
Formula best designers and manufacturers of brakes imo, when they produce a good one. Especially if you get a 2nd or later year version where they've sneaked in some rolling revisions 🙂 They;ve slightly surpassed the 2011 The One now, but nobody else has.
OK more handwaving. How do you define best? Hope pro 2s are definitely not the best hubs but it's a massively succesful design, it does exactly what they want it to. Hope have nailed it with the cnc work as well, it's an inferior production technique that they've convinced buyers is worth paying extra for and makes most superior forgings look basic and cheap. Clever stuff and makes a strength of their weakness.
Shimano cranks. Cheap, light, strong. You have to spend significantly more to get anything marginally better.
Hope brakes. They feel great and are easy to maintain. Spares easily obtainable.
XTR shifter. Spending money at this end rather than the mech end seems to have a better effect on shifting performance. I prefer Shimano shifters and mechs to Sram.
5:10 shoes. Now I've experienced the "grip" of riding in these I would hate to use anything less. Of course best complemented with some DMR Vaults 😀
They;ve slightly surpassed the 2011 The One now, but nobody else has.
Loely to use, nightmare to live with and not very robust. Mavic hubs (crossmax) are also great to use but constant retightening of a preload nut is plain shit and something they need to get past (along with stupid narrow rims).
Shimano cranks. Cheap, light, strong. You have to spend significantly more to get anything marginally better.
XT cranks are the only constant for me. I'm not too attached to any other item.
Thomson bars, stems and seat posts.
ODI Rouges.
Chris King.
Hope Hubs.
Shimano brakes.
Are my go to bits.
wrecker - MemberLoely to use, nightmare to live with and not very robust.
Do you have the 2010 version by any chance? The minor revisions for my2011 made them (ime) rock solid reliable- I've had 3 sets on the go in everything from a rigid xc bike to a dh bike and other than hose changes they've only ever needed new pads. Oh, I did break the alu bolts in a crash but they're designed as breakaways so that's fair enough.
Oh, and Maxxis. Can't believe I forgot those.
Do you have the 2010 version by any chance?
I don;t have any now, but it's possible that the ones I did have were 2010.
ton - Member
xt hubs run forever, and take 10 mins to service.
But if you don't service a CK hub, it stops working until serviced. If you don't service an XT hub, it dies and cannot be repaired.
Saddle: Titec Berserkr DH Ti. Comfy, light, grippy, long enough to move about on. Mine's looking a bit scruffy now, need to find some NOS that isn't in USA with £50 postage...
Brakes: I can bleed Sram/Avid so got some Guide RS to replace my old set of hybrid Juicy Ultimate levers with Code calipers.
Fizik Arione
Ortlieb Panniers
...why am I on a MTBing forum again 😆 ?
Shimano pedals & Specialized shoes.
Stans rims have never given me any cause for complaint, unlike some i could mention.
Avid bb7 brakes, not flash or fancy, they just work & are easy to look after.
ESI grips, bye bye hand pain.
Hope hubs, no complaints in lots of years of use, cheap adapters to change from QR to bolt through meant not having to buy new wheels for a new frame / fork.
Maxxis tyres, only just tried them, they knock spots off the contis & Shwable tyres used in the past.
Jones frames, i will always have a jones now, just brilliant bikes.
Daffy - Member
"ton - Member
xt hubs run forever, and take 10 mins to service."
But if you don't service a CK hub, it stops working until serviced. If you don't service an XT hub, it dies and cannot be repaired.
It's a shame Shimano don't put a grease nipple on the hubs, but I suppose the folk who don't give them a quick clean out with new grease each year would still neglect them.
Sp41 outer and 1.1mm inners.
Hope hubs.
Shimano brakes.
Flite saddles.
Folk talking about Thomson stems and solid posts - why? It's just a brand/appearance thing surely? The cheapest truvativ ones will do the same job as will the most expensive ones out there.
SRAM gears. I love the 'clunkiness'.
Stan's rims.
Specialized tyres. Light, grippy enough and easy to set up tubeless.
XT front brakes. Faultless (but bizarrely have had nothing but trouble with XT on the rear).
Charge saddles. Spoon, Scoop and knife all good. Shape is spot on.
Superstar pedals.
Drivetrain: Shimano. Deore upwards just works and is cheap compared to the competition.
Brakes: Hope. Fully serviceable on the kitchen table and I love the feel of them. The looks are a bonus.
Wheels: Hope hubs (see above) and Mavic rims, although that may change as I want to go wider.
Dropper post: Reverb. Although riding with ANY dropper is better to none!
Thomson stem and seatpost
WTB Rocket V and SST saddles - comfy designs that have stood the test of time
Salsa Woodchipper bars
Mavic rims
Wheelsmith spokes
Chris King hubs and headsets - still running after over a decade of hard use
Surly tyres - not light but they last really well
Alpkit Gourdon bags - waterproof, far cheaper than any other bag
Deore steel chainrings - no aluminium ring comes close to lasting as long and they shift really well
Grip shift shifters - shame the new type 2 mechs are utter gash
Shimano bush based jockey wheels - simple but brilliant design. No more seized jockey wheels
Shimano square taper bottom brackets - outlast every other bb
Middleburn cranks - again, they outlast every other crank that I have used
Avid BB7's. Original Avid sintered pads, get them good & hot when new. Full length outers, stainless inners. With decent sized rotors they can work as well as hydraulics. I've actually got a spare set that will go on my new Orange 5 if the XT's ever give me a problem.
King bottom bracket just goes on & on, can be stripped down to clean out.
Salsa seat clamp just does it's job, when Hope etc have slipped
(29.6 size, so but undersize for closest 30mm).
XT hubs, grease them up properly from new & once a year.
Surly hubs on the SS, again they just go on & on.
Thomson stuff, obviously.
White Industries "Trials" freewheel. Been on for years.
Cane Creek S3 headset.
Off-bike...
Topeak Hummer tool.
Lezyne alloy-drive pump.
Hope for pretty much everything where it's an option. Maybe not always the lightest, but solid and know if there's ever a problem it'll be easily sorted, either with a cheap spare bit or just popping it in the post back to 'em.
SRAM drivetrain, but with Shimano cables, outers and cassettes.
KMC chains.
J-bend spokes.
Hope for pretty much everything where it's an option. Maybe not always the lightest, but solid and know if there's ever a problem it'll be easily sorted, either with a cheap spare bit or just popping it in the post back to 'em.
KMC chains.
J-bend spokes.
Yes!
Plus:
Shimano cranks.
Saint shifter (SRAM feel, Shimano reliability?)
Continental (black chili only) tyres - best compounds by a mile (carcasses tough enough for my riding but it's not relentless rocks).
Gravity Dropper dropper posts - they just keep working.
Stans rims.
Cane Creek shocks.
Charge saddles.
Thomson stems
Specialized BG saddles
Specialized control tires
Shimano hydraulic discs
Shimano Hollow tech ii cranks
Sram xo shifting
Odi lock-on grips
Shimano SPD pedals
Stans no tubes sealant
Maxxis tyres. They don't fall to pieces like all the other brands I've tried.
Deore chainrings. They work and last for ages.
DT hubs for me-either 240s or 350s. Had several sets of both and have all been totally trouble
Free with minimal/no maintenance
White industries free wheels
Dt 240 hubs or older hope
Square taper bb with rs7 Middle burn arms
Grip shift
I'm going to give Maxxis tyres a go after reading this thread.
Giro helmets. My head is a doppelganger for their medium. Road and mtb. They disappear in use.
Other brands will suit other heads. But mine is definitely Giro-shaped!
On single speeds it's WI freewheels and final cog - lovely things,
A fan of SLX chain sets, XTR shifters, Conti tyres, kmc chains, avid brakes Thompson stems and posts, On One frames - I realise that list has brands on it others are really not keen on.
But the one bike part that is fantastic is a Chris King headset, they are now on most of the bikes here (which is lots) and every one I have bought has been second head and everyone has remained perfect. We never need to touch them, we have replaced bearings in all the brands but never a CK!
Hope Hubs
Chris King headsets
Middleburn stuff generally
Shimano spds
Thompson seat posts / stems
If you mean fit and forget. . .
[b]The love list:[/b]
Mavic 721 rims - indestructible, not too heavy, never have to worry about them.
WTB saddles - simple, get on with the job, strong.
SLX brakes - super cheap, plenty strong, good for ages if you don't faff with them.
Rock'n'roll blue - lasts, clean, especially good in sandy areas.
Finish line carbon paste - excellent for dodgy seat-tubes like ragley
Hope seatpost clamps - nice looking, good brass bushing
Shorts - Race face for baggies [e.g. Ambush], Endura for liners.
XT derailleurs and shifters: My nine-speed has worked every time, first time for 6 years. Zero maintenance.
[b]The hate list:[/b]
Sram brakes, especially Elixirs. Both died on a hire bike in Gran Canaria this week. Walked 12K down a road as had no brakes. Unacceptable.
Salsa seat-clamps: No bushing, small allen key rather than finger tip barrel adjuster.
Tioga tyres: Washed out on me several times, especially poor on hard, wet surfaces.
SKS mud-guards: Not fit for purpose. Bin.
Easton carbon bars
Thomson stems
SRAM 1x11
Hope hubs (originally used as CK didn't have an XD driver option at the time but I've grown to love them)
Shimano brakes
Rockshox forks and dropper posts
Maxxis tyres
DT Swiss rear axles
All the above are on at least 3 of my 4 current MTBs, so if i'm using that as a qualifier, I should probably include Santa Cruz frames 8)
Special mention to TLD kit too (helmets, xc gloves and pads)
ODI Long Neck grips in 143mm size.
The best grips ever made bar none - have used them for 20+ years. All three of my bikes have them fitted.
When ODI stop making them is the day I stop riding bikes.
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/odi-longneck-bmx-lock-on-bonus-pack/rp-prod11718
ajt123 - MemberSKS mud-guards: Not fit for purpose. Bin.
Eh. They make some of the best road guards, and the best front mtb mudguard (the Shockboard). The shockboard's penalised a bit for its terrible mounting hardware but compensates by being easily attached with cable ties.
Hope hubs - reliable, noisy and easily serviced
Shimano cranks - reliable and easy to fit
Stan's rims
I have recently started using shimano brakes (came on an ex-demo bike) which I have regarded with deep suspicion but have surprised myself by quite liking. Although jury is still out as the front has developed a random habit of pulling back to the bar occasionally with no bite.
SDG saddles just work for me
Northwind - Member
ajt123 - Member
SKS mud-guards: Not fit for purpose. Bin.Eh. They make some of the best road guards, and the best front mtb mudguard (the Shockboard). The shockboard's penalised a bit for its terrible mounting hardware but compensates by being easily attached with cable ties.
The rear ones are the ones I hate.
Mudhugger all the way. Actually. . .
Good point. If they still made them then Suntour XC Pro greaseguard hubs would be right up there. I still have a set on my commuting bike that must be 20 years old now. Brilliant thingsIt's a shame Shimano don't put a grease nipple on the hubs
Shimano drivetrain (not hubs though)
Charge Spoon Saddle
KMC Chains
[b] Mudhuggers. [/b] Especially the rear one. Awesome.
leffeboy - Member
It's a shame Shimano don't put a grease nipple on the hubs
Good point. If they still made them then Suntour XC Pro greaseguard hubs would be right up there. I still have a set on my commuting bike that must be 20 years old now. Brilliant things
They dont - but it is easy to DIY, as fitted to all my bikes-
(This thread seems especially useful by virtue of seeing this stuff in aggregate).
[b]SLX chainsets[/b]:
The jump from entry level stuff I started with to SLX seems much bigger than the jump in quality from SLX to XT or above. SLX works well and is cheap enough I don't have to worry about smashing bits of it.
[b]Spank[/b] bits:
Subrosa rims have a reputation for being almost indestructible (unlike their wider ones) and seem to have put a stop to pinch flats for me even at lower pressures than I ran before. While I'm sure there are lots of 35mm stem and 760mm bar options I'd find just as good, their Spike stem and Spoon risers are lovely.
RustyNissanPrairie - Member
They dont - but it is easy to DIY, as fitted to all my bikes-
Thanks. Neat mod. I like it. 🙂