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Have posted this previously on here but only the final item.
Quick easy mod needing basic tinkering tools. My Shimano XT rear hub was done when new 5+ years ago and has never been rebuilt since. Still on original freehub.
My commuter was done when new and has the cheapest and nastiest non branded completely unsealed hubs ever but they are still running well despite never been rebuilt.
Anyway my Cannondale SS 29er is now out of warranty so its time to mod the Formula cup and cone hubs!
Tools required;
3mm jobber drill bit, 5mm jobber, 6x1mm taps, battery drill, ratchet tap wrench (standard chuck type wrench can be used by passing t-bar thru the wrench on each turn), grease, grease gun, 6mm grease nipples, 7mm spanner
Step1.
Find a gap in the spokes opposite the valve stem in the rim to poke the battery drill in. Use 3mm bit to dimple the hub shell.
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Step2.
Turn wheel so dimple is facing floor.
Apply a blob of grease (to retain swarf) to 5mm drill bit. Drill upwards (so any loose swarf falls away from hole).
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Step3.
Apply blob of grease (to retain chippings) to 6x1mm tap. Tap drilled hole with hole still pointing downwards (so any loose chippings fall out of the hole).
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Step4.
With hole still pointing downwards - bounce wheel so remove any loose chippings.
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Step5.
Use 7mm spanner to install grease nipple until snug
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Step6.
Install grease gun and pump until fresh grease oozes out.
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Clean off excess - go ride!
If grease comes out of one side more than the other - use an old rag to smoother and apply pressure to the outer seal area to help force grease out of the opposite seal/bearings when pumping the grease gun.
Or buy a WTB grease-guard...
I think ive the same hub on my mariachi, how do you service the freehub, mine developed play after just a few months?
Cor. I remember wanting to do this to my Deore LX hubs back in 1992 or so, after seeing something similar in MBUK... 🙂
Does this not mean adding a hub-full of grease? ~50ml? Seems like a waste of grease and extra weight.
This mod is as old as the hills - remember seeing this in MBUK 20+ years ago. It does work well, though.
Nice idea. I was looking at my bb at the weekend to see if something similar was possible as i really miss having a greaseguard bb
That would be a lot easier if you stripped the hub out before you started....
Oh. Wait. That's the bit you're trying to avoid isn't it..? 😉
Still on original freehub
You do realise that greasing the bearings has absolutely no connection with freehub longevity, don't you? 🙂
Nice guide that...good work 🙂
Nice idea. I was looking at my bb at the weekend to see if something similar was possible as i really miss having a greaseguard bb
It is possible using some shim steel to 'seal' the BB shell holes. problem is though that if the shim steel doesn't work properly grease can leak into the frame tubes when adding 50ml to your hub is bad enough.
I reckon if shimano had put grease ports in its hubs many years ago we may never have seen cartridge bearing hubs. Only reason for cartridge is laziness in manufacturing and home maintenance (even though a service on cup and cone is actually quicker in my experience).
I was thinking along the same lines about pedals, but with the grease nipple unscrewed and replaced by a grub screw after use.
Hands up if you remember the 'twist' ring on way old XT hubs for squirting grease in ( man I'm getting old) 🙂
Grease nipple ordered! £3.70 for 10. 🙂
Just need a grease gun now. Hmmmm.
Thats been awhile , well done.
Chris king bb can be greased but need there own tool
Stuey, I still have one of those XT
Hubs in use, it's seen off half a dozen or so rims mind! It came specced on my 1990 Zaskar, with those the manky grease got pushed in the way, this method is better but it does look a bit untidy with the nipple in the hub. Miche hubs have a hole there too, covered quite cleanly with a snap ring.
I was thinking along the same lines about pedals, but with the grease nipple unscrewed and replaced by a grub screw after use.
I've done something close to this. I used an old end cap from a set of knackered pedals & fitted a grease nipple to the end of that. I remove the pedal end cap and fit the modded one when I need to re-grease the pedals.
D.
im impressed you managed to do it with the internals still in. I predict a very expensive exercise if I tried it like that.
good tip
tom barker aka mr big and our mechanic used to fit grease nipples to the bb & pivot on his dh frames. wish more full scale manufacturers put the same touches in their frames
i did see a guy on here do BBs. think he'd gone through the collar/ring and in to the cartridge bearing's shell IIRC.
Proper modding done well right there...
I've often thought of attempting a similar mod on a Truvativ bottom bracket, given these die within a very short space of time.
For those who don't like the look of a standard grease nipple-
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As used on older BMW bike's rear brake pivot. You need a specal attachment for the grease gun though. -
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(I'm well impressed with the amount of grease ports on my 1970s BMW. Why don't modern bikes/cars have them?)
I remember the same MBUK articles from the 90's too...
Does slapping grease on the drill bit and tap really prevent any and all swarf from finding it's way into the hub shell and simply being carried straight into the bearings with the first flush through of grease?
I think I'd still want to pull the axle and bearing out and do it properly, making sure it was totally swarf free before I re-assembled it and left it forever... But that's just me...
It is possible using some shim steel to 'seal' the BB shell holes. problem is though that if the shim steel doesn't work properly grease can leak into the frame tubes when adding 50ml to your hub is bad enough.
I did the BB grease nipple mod on a Cannondale frame circa 1992. I was fed up of rebuilding my cup and cone BB every week. I forgot about the tiny holes venting the BB shell to the chainstays... My lovely 3.5 lb frame was a little heavier with grease filling the BB shell and both chainstays. 😳