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Looking at links it's hard to work out if any come ready for all or indeed any of the above out of the box.
Thoughts appreciated
Just pick the one you like and, if it doesn't, get some adapters like the Park Tool TS-2TA.
How are your DIY skills? Roger Musson Wheelpro e-book has instructions for a DIY stand. Built one myself, put the time and effort in, very happy.

The thing to consider with these types of stand are that while they don't cater exactly for all wheel axle diameters - the wheel only needs gentle clamping in the stand.
I have a Minoura stand. I just put a rear QR through the axle and it works fine.
Skills, 0/10
Just pick the one you like and, if it doesn’t, get some adapters like the Park Tool TS-2TA.
That's expensive though if already paying £250 for park stand anyway
as per scotroutes' answer - no need for adaptors IME
Those park tool adaptors are utter shyte. I have never ever got them to work, wheel always goes wonky in stand. Putting a QR through the whole lot is a much better idea.
However I use a 10mm threaded bar with nuts to clamp the wheel in the stand. works a treat.
I just rec'd one of these. I'll confess i've not used it yet
As someone mentioned above....... you'll only need to gently clamp the ends of the axle, regardless of width/diameter. I just plop the wheel in, adjust the stands supports together until they touch the axle ends, with the wheel suspended from a wooden dowel axle.
Been working fine for 12mm and 15mm axles and building wheels has not been affected.
Using a PArk stand BTW.
I've been using this with 12 / 15 without issue, can't see why 20 would be an issue. Can just about squeeze 148 boost rear wheel in when it's at max. Bargain at £79.
https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/s?q=lifeline+pro+mechanic+wheel+truing+stand&cat=product
I have the Minoura one with one of those AliExpress adaptors for less than a tenner
There were a couple of complaints that put me off the lifeline version and made me think the Park would be the better plan.
But in the short term i just took the wheel last night to Rotec Cycles who spent about 30s to tell me "it's mostly the tyre, the wheel is almost perfect". So a nice simple resolution short term.
But i do need to come up with a longer term solution and get a truing stand i must admit. I'd rather not pay Park nearly £300 lol.. but maybe it's the best and expensive choice.
I've built and rebuilt dozens of wheels using the frame they are to fit in and two cable ties. I don't have the space for a stand so I have had to make do and it works just fine. I don't have a tension meter either. I just give all the nipples a couple of extra little tweaks once the wheel is trued. I always think before hand maybe I should buy a stand but once I've built the wheels I forget about it. So, there are cheap and effective ways of completing your wheel builds for the space and cash poor amongst us.
I don’t think you need to spend kids on a wheel trying stand - all it really needs to do is hold the wheel straight and have a gauge each side with lateral true and another one at the bottom to check the wheel is fully ‘round’.
I use an old Tacx stand I picked up for £25 from gumtree or fb classifieds a few years back. I’ve got a qr type adapter that works on non boost 15mm front wheels, for my qr road wheels you just use the standard qr that you attach them to the bike with - but for everything else I have a long threaded bar that has adapters on it to engage with the hole in the hub and chunky hand turned nuts to secure it.
It’s a bit of a stretch of the stand to rear boost spacing but it works as the arms have some flex in them.
I’ve re-spoked a 24 spike road wheel, numerous 27.5 to 29er rim changes and maybe 12 full wheel builds from scratch. All my wheels to date have turned out strong and reliable (touch wood).
https://road.cc/content/review/115090-tacx-exact-wheel-truing-stand?amp
So, there are cheap and effective ways of completing your wheel builds for the space and cash poor amongst us.
Agreed its just as easy in a bike frame. But if you want a "nice to have" a jig is great, eg I have pare wheels so i cna keep a bike rolling, or building a mates wheel and i don't want his bike knocking around the joint. EG I do mine on the kitchen table whilst watching tv with the sprogs, much nicer with jig etc as it takes up less room.
I've got an older version of this park stand where the axle or QR end caps just rest in a V. Works fine for home-building. I'm sure a pro would prefer something with a DTI type gauge, but this gets them to within a couple of mm, which you can't see once a tyre is mounted and it's in the bike.