Orbea Rise - real world experience?

I bought the alloy version (H15) back in May as I couldn't stretch to the Carbon M series.

I have used it mostly for longer days out in the lumpy hills of the Southern Uplands here in Scotland - longest ride was over 60km and I don't use Eco mode and still had juice left. Our typical rides have 3000-4000 ft in them. I realize this may be irrelevant if you are looking at the carbon models.

Some good pricing on the M series just now as the new model comes out shortly (mate just ordered M10).

I bought the base model H30 (540wh battery) a couple of months ago. I also have a Gen4 Tallboy and Cotic Solaris.

I love the Rise!
I get two good rides out of single charge; so probably 70+km with 1500+ metres of climbing; mainly using boost on the climbs and eco (or off) on the flats.
I've done a simple mod to weather proof the on/off button, upgraded my brake discs, Invisiframed, fitted shorter cranks and changed the tyres about. Ready to ride with Minions, Stan's, SPDs, 2xMudhugger guards, etc... it weighs 21.5KG on my scales. Well, it probably weighs a lot more now as I prefer riding to cleaning!

It rides really well, although I might upgrade the basic Marzocchi 140mm fork in the future. It's much harder to manual than my other bikes and, obviously, heavier to lift over gates and the like. It weighs the same as when my Tallboy is loaded up and used for my bikepacking missions. The motor became quieter over the first few rides and the assistance feels quite natural. I much prefer it to the E-Sommet I had a couple of years ago.

If it was stolen tomorrow, then I'd be buying again. Great stuff. Cheap too at the moment.

I have a Rise H15 with 150 Fox 36s. Great bike in all respects. Have no issues taking it down anything, and although the HA is a degree or more upright than my last Enduro bike, it rides better and gives me far more confidence on the steeps. However, by the time it is kitted out with decent tyres it is almost 22 kg as a large.

IF I was to buy again I think I would get a base carbon model, fit the same 150 forks and upgrade the tyres and brakes as and when, and then buy a range extender. I very raely use more then 50% of the battery on the H15 and usual rides are in the order of 20-30 km and 800-1000m climbing. The bike has now done well over 1100 miles of trouble free riding in some testing conditions in the Brecon Beacons

In terms of stats so far the best I've recorded was 11,213ft of climbing and 64.42 miles across three rides and I still had 23% left on the H15 and only change I've made is chucked the dissector on to the rear and fitted a minion on the front. There's no way I'd be lifting it over the gates in the lakes though so I would stay away from any hike a bike stuff on the alu model at least unless you're a professional weight lifter mind!

Quick answer to a pm'd question regarding the on/off button mod...

No worries...
I had applied Invisiframe (paint protection film) to the entire bike. I had a bit left over.
I cleaned out the button really well, and cut out a circular piece of Invisiframe about 10mm greater diameter than the button. I then stuck it straight over the button. The film has enough give in it for the button to work perfectly, whilst also sealing it up. You almost can't see the film.
I also made a neoprene and velcro wrap to go around the frame covering the charging point.
Hope that makes sense.

I'll take some pictures later

Appreciate all the replies 🙂

Well, seems to be a lot of love for these. The stats you guys are giving arn't a million miles away from what I'd guess a full fat ebike has to offer - so thats making me less anxious.

Suppose going ebike feels like a big decision in inself - and started freting that if I did get a Rise, would I always think I should have gone for somethging like the Heckler.

One that I'm looking at is the M10 carbon, full XT and factory Fox in a lovely blue colour - they have one in a shop not too far away so think I'll nip up on Saturday morning before making any decision.

A mate who I go biking with has a rise m10 with the 360wh battery, he gets about 3000 feet of climbing over 15-20 miles out of the battery. He also bought the range extender, which takes him up to 5000+feet of climb.

think his M20 model weighs about 19kg all up, he fitted shorter cranks as he found he was always hitting rocks with them, and tougher tyres, and better brakes.

BTWI think the updatd rise is about (ie in the next week or so) to be announced, I suspect no significant changes to the frame, but possibly a larger battery in the carbon models - probably 500wh to match the alu.

I had a teaser/marketing email from orbea about it a couple of days ago.

I bought an H30 in March. Its just fabulous and I would buy another. Brakes are not good enough, and suspension is too firm and I'll upgrade a bit next year. But as a thing, the battery, the motor the reliability, the price. Its a great package.

Upgrading to 203mm discs has made a world of difference to my H30. Under£80 for two discs and two adapters.

We've got a brace of M10's in the garage. Mrs BS has hers as standard other than the grips. Mine has had a tyre change to DHR on the front, dissector rear with a Minion to go on for the slop, and bigger rotors (200mm). we put the Display JB on rather than the inline jobbie as I just couldn't see it.

I pretty much match my mates Moustache full fat eeeb for battery life, actually, he probably runs out slightly earlier than me. With a range extender it'll last as long as I have interest in riding for! mine is the nice blue colour version. it's a very excellent bike.

Surely there are some bad bits about it - I'm seeing nothing but love here

If I’m being honest, the headset is crap and will want replacing at some point, the paint is a little ‘soft’ so invisiframe is a good idea, the grips are meh and the saddle is unusable. We also swapped out the droppers to transfers as they are a bit smoother. Other than that colour me completely content for now.

https://www.emtbforums.com/forums/orbea.63/
Lots of info on emtb forums

Does anyone ride one of these with people on "full" e-bikes ?

Can you keep up just by trying a bit harder, or not without them backing off ?

Bargain here Danny!

https://startfitness.co.uk/products/orbea-rise-m10-electric-carbon-mountain-bike-2022-green

Extra 10% off puts it at £5400. Can you do it through C2W?

Does anyone ride one of these with people on “full” e-bikes ?

Can you keep up just by trying a bit harder, or not without them backing off ?

Not a chance/close ... I've got an old Gen 2 Bosch 2017..my mate has a new Orbea...
One of our playgrounds has a loop and I'll get easily 5-6 runs to his 3 to mate on mechanicals 1.
He's blowing and breathless, I'm not even trying on EMTB mode...
Loads of stuff it just won't go up as well.

To be fair he's a lot bigger than I am but its not all fat..

Can you keep up just by trying a bit harder,

Assuming equally fit people on the full fat bike and the rise, you won't stay with them for long. The full fat bike puts out 500-600 watts peak, versus 350w peak of the rise.

Surely there are some bad bits about it – I’m seeing nothing but love here

My mate with the rise has had 4 new motors....

They all failed in quick succession one after the other,for different reasons,, the latest one has been fine for ages now,so hopefully he was just really unlucky.

Plus some people say the frames are a bit flexy , I guess that could be considered good or bad depending on what you want

I’m assuming more than capable enough although not the steeper than I’m used to H/A.

Bear in mind Orbea's quoted geometry is with a 140mm Fox 34 fork fitted... Not the 150mm Fox 36 or equivalent most people are running... I've got a Reverse Components Angle Spacer fitted to the top of my 150mm Fox 36's (wanted a bit more static ride height rather than more sag, hence went this way rather than 160mm shaft) and the static HA measurement is a 2 way average of 64.9deg on mine... So its certainly in the ballpark geometry wise...

Here's mine...

https://www.vitalmtb.com/community/TheMissingLink,48768/setup,45990

From what I can gather the reduced torque and lighter weight give it similar range to a 500w battery…

From my limited experience (illness and injury has kept me off a bike for a large part of the year), with the 360Wh battery on my Rise @ 19.3kg I'm getting near enough the same stats both distance and climbing wise out of a battery as I did on my old 504Wh battery in my Vitus eSommet at 25.5kg. Those being around 20 miles and 1400m of climbing until battery depletion with 92kg of me plus equipment on using a combination of Eco and Trail.

The Rise feels a lot more organic, you don't notice the relative lack of torque because actually, you don't need it! To me it just feels like a really good trail bike with a 5kg weight penalty low down where you don't really notice it. Unlike on bigger eBikes where they start to get front heavy too because there's so much heavy battery right up by the head tube, the balance of the Rise always feels spot on to me.

I have bought a Range extender for as you describe, haven't had the opportunity to use it yet though due to illness. Hoping for some decent days in the saddle next year though.

IF I was to buy again I think I would get a base carbon model, fit the same 150 forks and upgrade the tyres and brakes as and when, and then buy a range extender

For this reason, I ummed and ahhed for a while before ordering the carbon version. I figured I would rarely use the extra 50% battery capacity on the alloy bike, and I would benefit from the 2kg+ weight saving more often. My decision has been justified, as mine is a good 2-2.5kg lighter than any similarly specced alloy version I have come across.

One that I’m looking at is the M10 carbon, full XT and factory Fox in a lovely blue colour – they have one in a shop not too far away so think I’ll nip up on Saturday morning before making any decision.

Good idea, best overall compromise on spec/price too...

think his M20 model weighs about 19kg all up, he fitted shorter cranks as he found he was always hitting rocks with them, and tougher tyres, and better brakes.

Shorter cranks are a good idea, as are better ones... The stock E13 cranks aren't the best to be honest, heard a number of horror stories. I managed to source some Shimano EM900 crank arms (kind between XT and XTR level) in 165mm to replace the 170 E13's and they're much better... I'd be tempted to try 160's if I had the option to though.

Does anyone ride one of these with people on “full” e-bikes ?

Can you keep up just by trying a bit harder, or not without them backing off ?

Bit of an "it depends", but given the EP8 RS motor is just a software limited EP8, if your full fat ebike mates are typically running in eco or trail modes then you'll have no issues if you're running mostly in trail with occasional use of Boost mode. You might want to use a range extender though...

But if your full fat ebike mates are on 700+Wh bikes that have been derestricted, and they ride them like motorbikes not mountain bikes, then you'll probably get left behind...

I can tell you that my Rise is far easier to pedal above the 15.5mph assistance threshold than any full fat eMTB I have ever ridden though, if that is of any concern.

Surely there are some bad bits about it – I’m seeing nothing but love here

All minor niggles rather than any significant issues or deal breakers as far as I'm concerned...

Rear tyre clearance isn't up there with most full fat eBikes... I wouldn't go fitting anything larger than a 2.4" in there in UK conditions myself. You can probably physically fit larger, but I wouldn't recommend it.

Front ends are relatively low, quite a low stack height compared to many of their competitors. Next mod for mine is going to be a 38mm rise bar to replace the 25mm rise one on there right now.

Stock tyres are typical paper thin Maxxis OEM affairs. Worth upgrading immediately...

Depending on which model you go for, be aware of some component shortcuts... The Shimano M400 spec hubs on cheaper M20 and H30/15 bikes aren't fit for a £500 bike, let alone a £5k one! Likewise cheap 3 finger levers on the lower end Shimano brakes on the entry level models aren't up to much either.

People who ride harder have complained about performance drop off on Float DPS shocks (non piggyback) on longer descents. Not an issue on higher spec models with better shocks seemingly.

Stock saddle is fit only for the bin... Shame as being a Fizik, it's nicely made, but shape is horrendous.

Some of the pivot bolts are known to creak and come loose quickly if not correctly torqued and threadlocked.

Direct fit bearings into the headtube on the carbon models (no press in headset cups) is an annoyance if you had visions of headset upgrades and/or an angleset.

Seat tube is overly long on the XL size... I know of a few people for whom the seat tube length on the XL has meant a no go purchase wise as it was simply too long to fit anything longer than a 150mm dropper post despite the fit being spot on otherwise.

Also the reach/sizing is a little small compared to some. Which may or may not suit. I'm often inbetween a medium and a large in many brands, which is good for me here as the Large Rise fits me spot on. Worth trying for fit though, as you may find you want a size larger than you'd expected as many people have done.

Oh, and having to remove the motor to get the battery out is a minor bind for some, but not a deal breaker.

Surely there are some bad bits about it – I’m seeing nothing but love here

Didn't shimano motors get absolutely panned on the forum recently for repairability/ warranty...

Can't remember the post, but if certainly put me off.

Didn’t shimano motors get absolutely panned on the forum recently for repairability/ warranty…

The general rule with eBike motors is the lower the torque, the lower the weight of the bike, the lower assistance modes it is being used in etc... The more likely the possibility of a reliable experience with it.

I know people who've killed a few EP8 motors now. None in Orbea Rises!

EMTB motors are very much the new dropper posts in that they all have their own inherent issues, pick your poison and deal with the limitations...

For most people with a Rise, the significant benefits vastly outweigh the minor drawbacks of Shimano motor ownership I'd say... Were I buying a full fat eBike right now, I'd probably be more inclined to recommend a Bosch or a Yamaha setup, but the EP8 suits the lighter bike setup very well in my experience.

Surely there are some bad bits about it – I’m seeing nothing but love here

The (unbranded) alloy freehub on the lower end model rear hubs are not great. Warranty replacement was steel freehub so maybe no longer an issue.

There were issues with the e13 cranks and Shimano/e13 had a little blame-game going on. The common fix at the time was to ditch the e13 cranks and bung genuine Shimano crank arms on.

yoshimi
Full Member
Surely there are some bad bits about it – I’m seeing nothing but love here

I thought there were murmurings of little frame bearings that weren't lasting, but interesting that there is no mention here. There's also the Shimano knock from the motor, but I suppose that's just something to live with

There’s also the Shimano knock from the motor, but I suppose that’s just something to live with

yeah, thats not specific to the rise, any bike with the shimano ep8 does it (as does any bike with the bosch gen4 motor), its not a fault as such, just a characteristic of the motor.

Reading some of the replies on here where people have swapped umpteen parts it suggests to me that maybe you've bought the wrong bike in the first place perhaps? I was advised by a mate who knows suspension inside out and back to front if I could afford to go for the H15 over the H30 . He told me don't think the new Bombers are anything like those of old . So I stretched that far , shop where I bought it tried to persuade me I should upgrade to 4 pot brakes . So far 3 months in I've not found it difficult to stop !
So far all I've changed is the saddle , personal preference, having read about the spat between E13 and Shimano over the crank arms I decided it was prudent to get Shimano crank arms put on before I bought it .I'm guessing at some point the stock tyres might prove " interesting" if this rain continues 🙄but beyond that for my once a week big days out I'll keep riding it as is .

Re the mashed freehub... I could imagine that low cadence + max power through a low gear = max stress on the freehub. Even worse with a Brose or full fat motor. Lazy peddling based on low cadence and max power = broken bits.

FWIW, I changed some stock Shimano pawl based freehub to DeeMax and a DT Swiss style ratchet hoping the longevity is improved, as well as changing to a spinny style of peddling.

Reading some of the replies on here where people have swapped umpteen parts it suggests to me that maybe you’ve bought the wrong bike in the first place perhaps?

Whilst only Specialized (and only @ S-Works level at that) have decided it prudent to offer eBike framesets for sale and everyone else continues to offer off the shelf full builds only with compromised specs, I'll defend mine and anyone else's choices to heavily customise their own bikes as they see fit... Certainly my own experience of Shimano's latest 11 and 12 speed groupsets has been so bad, I would never buy it, so I ripped the XT off mine (alone with anything else I didn't want to keep) before it even turned a wheel and sold it on...

If the stock specs work for you then brilliant... You did absolutely right going for the H15 over the H30 regardless as the suspension is that much better, but I suspect if you're happy on 2 pot brakes on an ebike, you're probably quite a bit lighter than I am and/or not riding the same terrain... Likewise the stock tyres! I'll agree if we were discussing some of the bikes I've seen on the facebook group though, people mulleting them with a long stroke coil shock, fitting 170mm travel forks etc, and coming in around the same weight as many full fat ebikes...

Does anyone ride one of these with people on “full” e-bikes ?

Can you keep up just by trying a bit harder, or not without them backing off ?

If it’s another Shimano powered bike, maybe.

If it’s a Bosch/Brose, absolutely no chance. But, from experience, the full power EP8 also is noticeably underpowered compared to the former also (and more hungry in battery use).

here's mine after nearly 2yrs of abuse

M10 carbon
range extender
santa cruz reserve carbon wheels
push 11-6 shock
160mm lyrik with push ACS3 coil and HC97 damper
X01 gearing
220mm disc up front

love this bike. it did get a new motor after about a year though due to a cracked axle with the e13 cranks. orbea replaced with a new motor and shimano cranks

Similar to @oldfart I was all ready to swap out the 2-pot Deore brakes and the tyres but was really impressed with the stopping power (after upping the front to 203 spare rotor I had) of the stock units. Also been impressed with what the stock tyres can handle and have only just now swapped the Rekon out for something slightly grippier. H15, Southern Scotland.

Just to mention...
My bottom of the range H30, bought from Tredz about 6 weeks ago, came with genuine Shimano hubs, upgraded levers and hoses and the Steps 7000 computer.
Didn't expect any of those!

I think that changing to Shimano cranks is a good move on any of these bikes. I was changing them anyway as I prefer shorter cranks 👍

Is swapping cranks just a matter of a straight swap or is there a lot of faffing with the bikes sensors configuration?

Just got an H30 and I have been seriously impressed. It replaced an E8000 equipped bike and I was a little bit worried in case I would notice the drop of 10nm, but I havent. The EP8 RS is very effective and behaves impressively well. The lighter weight and extra gearing obviously helps but I have found the Rise performs very efficiently on my local trails compared to the E8000. I tried a couple of very steep climbs by way of comparison and the Rise climbed without anymore noticeable effort than the E8000. Battery life/range is also noticeably better on similar rides. I changed the front rotor to 203 and I think the Deore brakes work perfectly well for my type of riding so Ive no plans to change them.

Is swapping cranks just a matter of a straight swap or is there a lot of faffing with the bikes sensors configuration?

straight swap, just unbolt old cranks, bolt on new ones, there are no sensors on/in the cranks, or any reconfiguration to be done

Didn’t shimano motors get absolutely panned on the forum recently for repairability/ warranty…

It's not really the reliability that's the issue, it's that it can not be repaired, only replaced.
There are no shops or service places that will fix them.

Outside of the 2 year warranty, it's about 1,000 gbp for a new motor.

I think this is now reflected in the used prices too.

Shimano have really set themselves up to get (deservedly) humped on right to repair issues

Shimano have really set themselves up to get (deservedly) humped on right to repair issues

Unlikely,ebikes are not a category of product that falls under the right to repair regulations.

The regs apply to primarily household appliances,eg washing machines etc

Indeed, but I’m sure that will be expanded to other high expense, high environmental impact items before long

Why worry,
2 year warranty then, if your are a worrier, sell for close to what you paid 2 years previously.

Some details on the new Rise out on another forum:

HERE

Me and mates have bought ... Six of these things since summer! (All M series)
Some notes:

Frame bearings needed an in-situ regrease after 4 months, and we've fresh sets ready for changing in the Spring

Chain - £20 CN-6100 IIRC - Swapped out at 0.75 1000 miles, will keep doing this.

Brakes - 203 front rotor is a MUST. Some have swapped to the 4pot calipers, I might do the front but I don't really need to tbh.

BB - Bit low with the 170 cranks + 140 fork, better with 150 fork and some of us are swapping out to 160mm XT cranks. Shorter, lighter and will avoid the E13 spindle cracking lottery (all ours are checked and fine though)

Range Extenders - thought we wouldn't really use them but they have come into their own since Autumn. Bigger beefier tyres, more kit worn and carried, mudguards, thick mud, all mean more use of Trail and Boost most of the time. Great fun and hours of it.

ONE needs a warranty issue, it started cutting out so will be a leccy connection issue, probably crap in the on/off switch.

We all still love 'em. Even ... the Saddles! Very surprised but none of us have any issues with the Fizik. Weird eh!

Unlikely,ebikes are not a category of product that falls under the right to repair regulations.

The regs apply to primarily household appliances,eg washing machines etc

Yep but Shimano also have to sell to other countries and several of those are just across the channel.
It's going to be very difficult for eBike motor manufacturers to prevent people in the UK getting parts from Europe

motor has just went in mine - motor no2. first motor was for a cracked spindle on e13 cranks. this motor has just over 1000km and threw a hissy fault with a load of faults. Currently being sent to shimano to determine if warranty or not. its got 1mth of 2yr warranty left. disappointed that it needs sent away and that a diagnostics report will not suffice. equally disappointed that the nearest date for a motor is end of January at earliest. Shimano really needs to up their game and either make these serviceable or at least make enough to suit demand! why should i be off my bike because they can't get their act together.
I was just about to purchase another bike - namely a mew Orbea Wild, but this has soured the experience. I'll have to do some more thinking.

The lack of repairability is also a problem when they arne't broken but need servicing.

I've got an older Shimano motor with what sounds like grinding bearings or gears or something. Already been back to Madison who said it was "working" so nothing to worry about.
Only got 3 months left of warranty, slightly concerned about an upcoming 1000 bill if it fails completely.

Think that'll be the end of me owning an ebike tbh!

Some great feedback there - thanks everone that took the time:)

So Orbea Rise M10 (plus range extender) now ordered from our local MTB Monster, hopefully picking it up this weekend. Although, this is now for my wife......I got all carried away and went with a Turbo Levo Pro.

@richardthird

Frame bearings needed an in-situ regrease after 4 months, and we’ve fresh sets ready for changing in the Sprin

Symptoms and how? Mines done over 3k km now (K's a bit less). They've both had the odd ride where the got a squeak that seemed to be from a pivot, but then stopped again (and neither have any bearing play I've noticed)

I noticed a slight creak up a particular steep climb which led me to have a look. Both mine and the other mates that were looked at had dry main upper and lower pivot bearings once you could get a finger in there for a waggle. Rescued in situ though.

There's no other seals except the bearings themselves 'tis why and Orbea themselves say to check every few months.

I got the RISE H30 back in april and love it so far. 3 of my mates also got them aswell. A few of the lads have full fat E-bikes which are more powerful on some of the climbs but they werent massively far ahead, so didnt spoil the riding.
I made sure i change the rotor on front to 203mm. A lot of people complain about the brakes but i find them ok for now.
May get an airshaft at some point and change the fork suspension to 150mm.
My only gripe at the moment is that just before i ordered the bike they put the price up by £300 and now my bike is a grand cheaper to buy 9 months later.

Can anyone tell me what power the charger uses please - i.e. how many watts / amps it says it draws at 240v? I can’t find the spec but assume it’s got a sticker on it.

And how long the carbon 360Wh battery takes to charge from flat?

Cheers.

Not sure what power charger uses & can’t be arsed to go to garage to look but takes approx 5hrs from completely flat on carbon Rise to 100%

Not sure what power charger uses & can’t be arsed to go to garage to look but takes approx 5hrs from completely flat on carbon Rise to 100%

Sounds like a 2 amp charger if it takes 5 hours

Can anyone tell me what power the charger uses please – i.e. how many watts / amps it says it draws at 240v? I can’t find the spec but assume it’s got a sticker on it.

Max of 2A... But reality is they never run anywhere near that... Might get an initial peak somewhere around 1.5A for a few moments, but typically they're drawing around 0.6-0.8A for the bulk of the charge...

Not sure what power charger uses & can’t be arsed to go to garage to look but takes approx 5hrs from completely flat on carbon Rise to 100%

The 5hrs, whilst correct, is also misleading trying to understand the current they charge at... Because they don't charge in a linear fashion... Current will drop as the battery fills from an initial peak, becoming a trickle charge for the last 20% or so capacity.

Thanks, so not very high power, I’m trying to work out what I’d need to charge from a campervan. Apparently my wife might be about to buy a Rise and it’ll be job to provide her somewhere to plug it in…

I’m surprised they only charge at about 2A, seems low for a Lithium battery (although handy as it’ll mean we need a smaller inverter), can you get faster chargers?

So 2A at 36v = 72 Watts = 0.3A at 240v = 6A at 12v. I think, not accounting for losses but assuming the charger is always pushing out 2A (which it might not be).

And 30Ah from a 12v battery (+losses).

Max of 2A… But reality is they never run anywhere near that… Might get an initial peak somewhere around 1.5A for a few moments, but typically they’re drawing around 0.6-0.8A for the bulk of the charge…

So 2A input or output? I took the 2A to be the output.

Which model Rise? I think the larger battery in the H models has a 4A (max) charger and 2023 models may be different again

2022 H30 charger is 100-240V 2.5A input and 42V 2A output according to the label on the charger

2022 H30 charger is 100-240V 2.5A input and 42V 2A output according to the label on the charger

Cheers 👍 I thought the battery was 36v. Max of 2.5A is worst case a 600W inverter, but closer 300W assuming that will pull 2.5A at 100v.

Which model Rise? I think the larger battery in the H models has a 4A (max) charger and 2023 models may be different again

She’s looking at an M20 2022 so will be the smaller battery.

Sorry to have gone on a bit of a tangent on this thread!

Battery may be 36V but the charger spec is 42V

Can’t be bothered to do the maths, but I have an 800w pure sine wave inverter in my camper that happily charges our 2 Rises at the same time.

Cheers 👍 I thought the battery was 36v. Max of 2.5A is worst case a 600W inverter, but closer 300W assuming that will pull 2.5A at 100v.

If you're on Facebook, get on the Orbea Rise group... It's a rare hive of actual useful information in a quagmire of shit that is Facebook!

Not done it but general consensus is minimum of 500W Pure Sine Wave inverter will do it... There is a potential spike of 480W but the reality is this is never any bigger than about 350W or so and it quickly settles down to under 200W...

Can’t be bothered to do the maths, but I have an 800w pure sine wave inverter in my camper that happily charges our 2 Rises at the same time.

I guess if you plug the one in, wait a few moments then plug the other in (so as to mitigate against current spikes) it would work... Ideally you'd have a 1000W Pure Sine wave inverter mind.

M’be, but they’ve charged happily in there, even in the sub zero trip to Scotland last year. It’s a Victron and has a peak power of 1500w for spikes, and I can’t physically plug them both in at exactly the same time anyway.

On the subject of charging, my LBS said watch out for the trickle charge, along lines of it may actually only charge to 85%. I can’t mind if they said to leave longer to ensure get to 100% or the reverse, avoid leaving plugged in too long as it will revert to trickle mode and be less than full charge?
Make any sense? Seems odd to not just go with the light indicator on the charger but almost that’s what they were suggesting. Orbea dealer and lots of Rises out the door, you’d think they’d know.

Yep. I quite often fi d mine back at 85% if I forget to unplug and leave it on charge for too long.

I have the H30 with an extender.
Put on a 160mm 36 fork, bigger fox seatpost and an xtr brakeset from new, so I couldn’t comment on how much it was improved.
Every local ride is steep up & steep down in S wales with full fat bikes and my previous bike was a full fat Levo. I get the same distance/height, but put in more effort. Most rides are well under 20 miles, almost all in turbo and I rarely run the battery flat.

Can I ask a sizing question on here?
At just shy of 6’2 and 32’ inseam I seem to be very much in between l & xl. Anybody else my size on a large?

I think ideally I’d like about a 630 tt and 485 reach and it looks a lil bit short in large flavour, but the xl is approaching gate territory and I hate feeling perched above a bike.

My local stockist want 3 weeks to get one in to try despite having them in stock at the warehouse so I’d rather buy online (from them )

Cheers

If it helps in anyway I’m 6’2 but with 34” inseam and long arms. I’m on an XL, but running the standard 50mm stem, I have a 175mm reverb AXS post on it with room to drop the post 15mm more in the frame, I also run 10mm of spacer under the stem.

I think ideally I’d like about a 630 tt and 485 reach and it looks a lil bit short in large flavour, but the xl is approaching gate territory and I hate feeling perched above a bike.

I'm your height but with a lot longer inseam. I had a 2-day demo on a L, but if I had bought one it'd been the XL (got a Kenevo SL instead).

And with a longer bike you'll feel less "perched".

Beware the XL... it has a very long seat-tube. With a 32" inseam you will end up with a very short dropper post.

Stockport area and happy for a "test fit". Size large @ 5'10" with 33" inseam

They do size up smaller , I've also rode a medium in every bike I've had , I'm just under 6ft but ended up on a large Rise and it's perfect 👍
While I'm here do other owners of the alloy version agree that the one thing that lets an otherwise great bike down is the stupid location of the on off switch? 🙄

On the sizing thing, as already mentioned the seat tube is quite long and you've also got the charging port to contend with when it comes to dropper post insertion.

The carbon model also has the power button on the seat tube which limits insertion even more.

My medium (alloy) has an stated max insert depth of 255mm but I was able to slam a Oneup 180mm (267mm insert depth) post in the frame. It basically slides passed the wiring for the charging socket.

@welshfarmer
@bir-72

On the subject of charging, my LBS said watch out for the trickle charge, along lines of it may actually only charge to 85%. I can’t mind if they said to leave longer to ensure get to 100% or the reverse, avoid leaving plugged in too long as it will revert to trickle mode and be less than full charge?

Trying to understand this - I've found if I charge mine some early in the week then ride on a Saturday it's at less than 100%. Both of us set off at 92% the other week as a result.

But I've not worked out how to stop it (other than top up charge the night before). I've tried using a timer to turn the charger off after 4 or 8 hours and also just turning off when the charger goes to green manually (but may have left the cable connected). It seems very odd for a li-ion battery to loose that much charge in a few days.

While I’m here do other owners of the alloy version agree that the one thing that lets an otherwise great bike down is the stupid location of the on off switch?

Agree - covering in spare protection tape helps keep the worst out.
I also 'upsized' from my normal Large (Yeti and BigDog) to XL on the Rise H

Slightly tangential question: how do the batteries fair in the cold (negative Celsius)? Or any e-bike for that matter.

Like every other battery powered thing, the runtime is reduced. I can’t quantify how much though.

So my wife just ordered an M20. I’m a little bit jealous!

She’d have liked the 150mm 36 fork but I think the M10 was over £1300 more, so will look at upping the 34 or swapping the fork.

I best get that inverter sorted.

Can I ask a sizing question on here?
At just shy of 6’2 and 32’ inseam I seem to be very much in between l & xl. Anybody else my size on a large?

This is where the issue comes in with the sizing for taller people on the Rise... It's fine if you've got long legs and arms and a short body basically, but not the other way around... I'm 5ft10 with a 33" inside leg and on a Large... I wouldn't want it any smaller! That said, I wouldn't want the seat tube any longer as I can just squeeze a 175mm dropper post in. The XL has a bloody long seat tube which means you're going to need a really short dropper post for it to fit correctly, but on the Large you'll feel quite cramped, especially as the seat angle and relative top tube length are quite short compared to the reach figure.

First charge here as only got last week. Not a fan of charging speed or it’s trickle approach. Had only ran down to 45% battery on first ride. 3 hours of charge last night and light didn’t go to green. I’m guessing it got to 80% or whatever and was trickle charging the rest?

Do folk find its 5hrs from any charge level or is it quicker for a top up, as not my initial experience.

My shimano was 3hours from flat and proportionately less to top up. Much better.

Only downside so far.

What light going green ? Blue light on charger pulses when charging when it changes to solid blue it's done.

Is yours the H model? M here and red changes to green per the manual.