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Garage are looking at charging me 150 quid for an oil change on each of my cars. Oil and filters can be had for about 100 quid total, and the job looks fairly easy
Do I need any special tools? I’m assuming getting under the car is as simple as jacking it up and putting in a couple of axle stands, but any other precautions I need to be aware of so the car doesn’t fall on top of me? Obviously I’ll have the hand brake on!
Depends on the car I guess, how easy it is to get to the filter.
You might need a new sump plug, chain tool to remove the filter and a suitable container for the old oil.
Usually fairly straight forward.. Any YouTube videos of people doing it on your car?
Nominally it's an easy job but there can be issues. Awkwardly located filters, loads of plastic trim covering the sump. Then you have to catch all the oil without making a mess and take it to the dump. I do our cars but at a £50 saving its a marginal gain. I can do ours without lifting it up so a bit less faff.
150 quid when parts are 100 quid seems like a no brainer .
I do all the filters and the oil at the same time for my 100 quid.
But I do it because I've had bad experiences of me and family/friends being charged for work not done.....
Least if I do it . I know it's done...and I know who to blame if it's done wrong
Definitely easy once you’ve watched a vid. I bought some ramps to do our cars, and I kind of like not paying someone to do it.
but at a £50 saving its a marginal gain
I read it as parts cost @ £100 total for both cars so £200 saving.
I've done it on old cars in the past. Think the only tools I used were an oil filter remover and a spanner for the sump plug.
150 quid when parts are 100 quid seems like a no brainer .<br />
thats 150 quid each, or 100 quid for both diy. I also need to replace the oxygen sensors, so thought that would could be done at same time
quick google suggests however that one of the cars (boxster) is not going to be easy to do without the car on a ramp as the filter is in the middle of the car, so maybe best leaving that to the experts
Other is a Mazda 6. That looks to be fairly easy, Jack up the front, but it looks like I need a tool to replace the old filter
Used to but can't be bothered these days. It shouldn't be hard but there's having a flat piece of ground to do it on, finding a suitable way to jack a modern car up can be difficult, and disposing of the old oil involves a trip to the local tip. For 50 quid more I'd definitely pay someone to.
I reckon you can get that parts cost down. I got 5 litres of correct spec oil for a tenner delivered and a Mann oil filter for £7. One of those oil drain pans/containers is a good idea for easy collecting and taking to the tip.
Obviously make sure the oil is nice and warm before you drain it and if there's an undertray with no access flap, remove it first before you're under the car with a hot engine trying to do it.
The easiest way is to buy a Lidl oil pump that can pump it directly out of the dipstick tube into a container, but that only really helps if you have an oil filter you can access from the tip of the engine.
One of those jobs I always put off doing, but unless the filter is particularly inaccessible, it's pretty straightforward. I can do my Berlingo in about half an hour, including a 10 mum break to let the last drips drain. I don't even bother raising it.
Biggest faff is catching the old oil and disposing of it and cleaning up, particularly if you kick the bucket over or slop it on the floor, which I manage to do almost without fail 🙄
Yeah, dead easy, done mine for years.
Investigate what tool you need for the filter, traditional canisters a strap wrench, but a few these days are just a filter element in a reusable housing, i.e. my Toyota needs a big cup shape tool to take the housing off.
I found the combined oil drain pan and waste containers a disaster....the oil drains out the engine faster than the hole into the container can cope. Not a happy result. I just have an old washing up bowl kept for the purpose, and fill the old empty oil cans with the waste to take to the er, recycling centre.
When was that, 2003?
Cant remember the last time I saw 2 litres for a tenner never mind a whole changes worth.
Anyway, I'd just save yourself the hassle and buy a vac pump from the off. You'll also need the correct tool for the filter and a set of ramps for whatever end needs raised. Halfords do a kit with ramps, chocks, stands, jack and crawl board for a sensible price last I checked. Will cost you the first time but after that it's already bought and paid for. Either that or look at SGS. Some ice hockey pucks are good for putting between the car and the jack, I got mine for £2 each from Puckstop but you could check your local rink/shop.
Boxster oil change is no harder than a ford focus, or indeed, a Mazda 6. Just the engines near the back wheels not the front. Jack and two axle stands, or some plastics ramps will do fine.
(Only thing to watch out for with a Boxster is a pretty large (9litres iirc?) oil capacity which if you've spent the last twenty years draining oil into your trusty 7.5 litre tray causes issues!)
Oil change is fairly easy, trim and undertrays are normally just held on with a few bolts or self tappers.
However, doing it without creating a mess is the trick. I found it got successively easier as I graduated from the stupid Halfords catch can (the one with a shallow drainer in the side that always overflows before it drains into the little hole) to an oil catch bowl (still too small, gets brimmed and then hard to pour into a bottle) to a 25l plastic oil can with a big hole cut in the side that has plenty of capacity and you can still take the cap off to pour it into a bottle!
However make sure you are getting the right oil, read up on the various codes written on the side, especially if any of your cars have a DPF. Don't just get the cheapest 5w30.
Getting the right oil is, absolutely critical, do not listen to anyone who claims that “5w30 is 5w30 innit, all the same".
Especially so with Diesels as mentioned above.
Another reason why Im much happier doing it myself as garages are usually the most guilty of the above!
Those struggling with oil drain pans/containers, are you removing the secondary bung to allow air to escape as the oil flows in? I've never had an issue even dumping 9 litres in one go.
I got my oil from ebay with a 20% off code, but even at the current £12 it's cheap.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/303155212612
Yes, removed the air vent plug, but if the sump drain hole is bigger that the hole into the container....more flow than can drain away. Messy.
Oil changes, oil filter, air filter and fuel filter changes are a simple skill that are IMHO always overcharged and also something you can do at home fairly easily. You only buy tools once and it's a good skill to learn.
Unless you are a hamfisted orc, there is nothing to fear
It's one of those jobs that garages love to do
Takes them 10 minutes , charge for 30mins . Let the apprentice do it .
Don't let it drain fully
Use generic oil that might , or might not be to spec
Don't change the sump washer
You can do a better job at home. It's often much cheaper to invest in a 20ltr drum .
Source a 25ltr placcy jerry can, cut top 1/3 off , keep screw on cap . Make really good catch cans .
Do not drain it on a windy day .
Wear disposable gloves and scruffy clothes.
Old piece of carpet under the car is good for laying on and catching the stray drips. Always replace the crush washer on the sump plug as they are about 20p from Europarts.
Make sure you can reach and grip the oil filter first. I have probably 5 oil filter removers I have had to use over the years with different cars and don't think I have ever had the 'right one' 🙁
You will need a decent Jack, ramps, basic tools, luck not to cover yourself in oil, old clothes etc etc. I used to do it myself but not anymore
<br />If I had an older smaller car I would do it, not a modern one though
agree with the above though that doing it yourself will be a better oil change
I've started doing the Panda's oil changes. Very easy but I can borrow a friends axle stands and trolly jack.
Never go under a car just held up by a single jack.
I've always (>30years) done all our servicing/tinkering/repairs myself on our cars but I'm a tight arse.
Oil changes are easy - Google/YouTube/Haynes manual is your friend.
Peli oil pumps make life easier but you still have to change the filter so don't always mitigate the need for getting under the car.
Beware though - you'll soon find yourself searching for 'spares or repairs' on eBay Motors and the word Bangernomics being in your lexicon.
An oil change isn't generally a difficult job but it's nasty. Even back when I was a povvy student doing 90% of my own car maintenance I did it once and vowed never again. For the cost of paying a friendly local mechanic it just wasn't worth it.
If nothing else, do you have a plan to get rid of the old oil? Is there a recycling centre nearby?
I got 5 litres of correct spec oil for a tenner delivered
What's it running on, Crisp 'n' Dry?
I got 5 litres of correct spec oil for a tenner delivered
There’s not a chance I’d be shoving oil that cost 2 quid a litre into an engine I wanted to stay running.
Surely the dictionary definition of false economy is skimping on the quality of engine oil and running some old chip fat instead? It really isn’t the place to be using ‘stuff I’ve never heard of that I bought off eBay’
I always did oil and filter changes myself on my motorbikes, because it’s easy and everything is accessible. Not a chance on my cars. Why bother with the obvious hassle when you’ve got a garage, with all the equipment to do it, who can sort it for a frankly nominal amount of money and won’t use chip fat
It's a doddle. I baulked at the £130 for an oil change for my Passat. Got the filter, oil and sump plug for half that, broke even when adding the ramps. Just needed a 32mm and 19mm socket. Next time, it's just oil, filter and plug.
I'd love to live in a world where £130 is a nominal amount. The £30 it used to be was, but that's over 20 years ago.
I.fall Squarely into the camp of 'do it myself, because (a) I know it will be right, ans (b) it's only my fault if its not.
That's why I do all my own push bike work.
But... I've got the oil changed at same time as an MOT in the last couple of years. But I went to a place that are using Castrol oils of the correct grade for the car (i've seen the barrel it came out of) and Mann or Bosch filters. The price difference when combined with an MOT is lower overall. And for saving about £50 vs working outside when is piiiishing down in November they can have the hassle of doing it and disposing of the old oil.
£10 for 5 litres... I'd not lube the hinges of the garden gate with that. Castrol Magnatec for a stop-start diesel is at least £10 a litre, and I need 7 litres.
I’d love to live in a world where £130 is a nominal amount. The £30 it used to be was, but that’s over 20 years ago
£130 quid isn’t the nominal amount though, is it? Aren’t we talking 50 quid here?
Decent oil an filter (not chip fat) - 100 quid.
Decent oil an filter (not chip fat) fitted and waste oil disposed of, without having to buy ramps and stuff and fanny around for hours underneath your car when you don’t know what you’re doing - 150 quid.
It’s 50 quid. What?… once a year?
It amazes me that you’ve got a vehicle that’s worth however many thousands of pounds and you’re quibbling over 50 quid over something that’s about as critical as it gets to its longevity
But… I’ve got the oil changed at same time as an MOT in the last couple of years
Yep… could you just give it an oil and filter change while you’ve got it please? Cheers.
For most cars it's an easy job but only as long as you have a decent place to do it and the correct tools. Can do my Fabia in 30 mins easily as it's got the oil filter on top of the engine. Jack up the front on the left hand side, undo sump nut and leave to drain, unscrew the oil filter, switch it out (paper canister that slides on a housing), put new O-ring on, put it back on the housing, refit sump nut with new crush washer (pack of 100 bought for £3), refill oil with 2.4 litres (I have an old Pepsi bottle marked at 1.2 litres), start engine for a few seconds to fill the oil filter. lower car off jack, tidy up tools etc then check oil level and top up if needed. My mum's Note though is a pain as the filter is tucked up behind the chassis rail and there's two undertrays to remove to access the sump nut. Still done in 45 mins though.
Cant remember the last time I saw 2 litres for a tenner never mind a whole changes worth.
Depends on the car and where you shop really. My Fabia uses the specific VW oil and I can get it for £24 for 5 litres from a few different places (usually CarPlan RTEC 16* from Spartan) and that bottle does 2 changes (2.4ltr sump). Bought a few in bulk a few years ago and got the price down to £3.60 a litre, lasted me 4 changes! The oil filter is £3-4 so can do a full change for around £20 once I factor in the gloves and rags, bit of a bargain when everywhere charges £120 or more for it and the oil attracts a surcharge in some too for being a 'special' one.
* has been running on it for 100k (190k currently) and it runs just the same as when it was on the oil used in the Skoda garage. Had the oil analysed prior to the previous service at 170k and it came back as perfectly healthy with no contaminants or signs of excessive wear. Sent off the sample at 9.5k (so just before a service is due) and it came back as 75% of life used, no breakdown of additives, good viscosity and no water mixed in it.
Jack up the front on the left hand side, undo sump nut and leave to drain
I know this should go without saying but, please don't go crawling around under a car which is balanced on a scissor jack. Ramps / axel stands aren't expensive and are generally preferable to your widow cashing in the life insurance.
If you've to ask on here, get someone else to do it.
Why? If you even half knew and/or had the tools (jack, axle-stands etc) you'd already know how to do it and would just Google whatever car you had for any 'oddities'.
It's one of those jobs where you might save £50 out of £150 but you're just as easy to screw it up and cost yourself a packet and/or a load of time.
Example: years ago changing the oil & filter on my motorbike, could not get the filter to budge but manage to bollox it so it was leaking oil. An embarrassing push to the nearest dealer and zero saving...
Try Smith and Allan for oil.
Worth buying the right tools, if you have a dipstick a oil extractor such as a Pela is worth it, then if your oil filter is in the right place you don't even need to go under the car.
Modern cars with electronic dipsticks can get complicated, for example in Volvo VEA engines you also need a code reader/communication device to reset the dipstick max level and be very careful of measuring oil volumes put in. But it sounds like the OPs is relatively simple.
I got 5 litres of correct spec oil for a tenner delivered
What’s it running on, Crisp ‘n’ Dry?
Best thing to do with that is take it straight to recycling centre then go to local auto supplies emporium to buy some Castrol and then do the job.
I thought that so I did a bit of digging.
The Mannol oil is available on Autodoc for £35ish for 5 litres, no idea why it's so cheap on eBay.
Decent oil an filter (not chip fat) – 100 quid.
Decent oil an filter (not chip fat) fitted and waste oil disposed of, without having to buy ramps and stuff and fanny around for hours underneath your car when you don’t know what you’re doing – 150 quid.
You can get 6 litres of premium fully synth oil for under £50. Many modern cars will require half that. Filter is about a tenner. You could spend £100 but you certainly don't need to.
On the tools and stuff I'd half agree. It depends on what you plan on getting out of it. If it's a one off cost saving exercise then I'd be inclined to say it's not worth it. The way I usually look at it, the first time round you might not save money by the time you buy the tools but you'll save money the year after, and the year after that. Also, if you genuinely don't know what you're doing, as simple a job as it is, it can still take a good while, trying to find all the jacking points (especially if you need to transfer from Jack to axle stands), working out how to get to the filter. Once adept you might do it inside 30 mins.
There's also a satisfaction that comes from fixing and maintaining your own stuff.
Put a pair of marigolds on and go and try and turn the filters a few mm. Just a few, if it shows signs of turning, crack on. If it's absolutely stuck solid then have a really good think before investing in the kit. A stuck oil filter is a total saga, doubly so with cold knuckles to scrape.
Iirc I bought a 20ltr of mannol for my Merc at £68.
It's a huge 8.5ltr sump. So not even enough for 3 changes.
I believe , rightly or wrongly, that a cheaper oil that meets MB spec , is of the correct acea code , changed every 10,000 miles is better for a turbo engine than oil costing 3 X as much and changed at 18,000.
Ok so what are the cars? what are the service histories like?
if you've got a full porsche service history theres no point getting you or your back street garage to do it. The paperwork is worth much more.
Whats the spec of the oil. On my last car it would have cost me 350 quid for the oil and filters. BMW wanted 300 to do it and stamp it all up.
That said i change the oil and filter on the wife's golf. it costs 50 quid and i use a pella pump so all dont in 20 mins and no mess.
Modern oil is pretty good, how much do you care? Lots of cars are on 20-25k service intervals.
FlaperonFull Member
Modern oil is pretty good, how much do you care? Lots of cars are on 20-25k service intervals.
and shouldn't be.
I second the recommendations for a vacuum pump. Makes it a very quick and easy job. I didn't believe it would get all the oil out, but I checked and it does.
Get the oil warm, whack the tube in, couple of plunges to start it off and leave it for a few minutes. Easy peasy, and the container seals up so you can take it to the dump easily.
It amazes me that you’ve got a vehicle that’s worth however many thousands of pounds and you’re quibbling over 50 quid over something that’s about as critical as it gets to its longevity
I'm reading it as 2 x £150 for oil change on both at a garage vs £100 to do both at home on the driveway. But still, as the saying goes, "if you can't afford two Porsches, you can't afford one".
Not sure if this has been covered but:
I’m assuming getting under the car is as simple as jacking it up and putting in a couple of axle stands
That is not always as easy as it sounds. Your car has jacking points which are safe to use to lift the car, but you will also need to hold the car on the axle stands which means they also need to go somewhere under the car and that will need to be a different place to the normal jacking points as they are intended for either a garage lift ramp or when you're just changing a wheel. On my Passat there was only one set of jacking points so you had to improvise, which was not confidence inspiring especially as I had to lift one side at a time and when you do this the car crabs sideways slightly. I ended up with two jacks, for some other reason, and this was better because you can lift both sides more or less at the same time and the wheels on the jacks equalise any sideways movement.
The Merc has a centre jacking point at the front, which is not in the manual but it is documented in some other workshop manuals and is widely discussed on the internet as it applies to most Mercs. It is also possible to use the diff at the back as a jacking point again unofficially, but widely attested. This makes life soo miuch easier as you can just pop the axle stands under the normal jacking points.
BUT if you are not working on the wheels or suspension, which applies to you if you are just servicing, the easiest option by far is to use ramps. Or even just some lengths of 2x4 screwed tightly together - this is even easier than ramps and whilst you don't get a lot of height, you may get enough.
The easiest option of all is to suck it out of the dipstick hole with the appropriate sucker. In fact, I'm not even sure my Merc has a drain plug, I think you're meant to do it this way.
FlaperonFull Member
Modern oil is pretty good, how much do you care? Lots of cars are on 20-25k service intervals.and shouldn’t be.
Are you saying that service intervals as stated by manufacturer are wrong?
If so, on what basis?
Yep. It’s a well known fact on Mercedes forums that it works out a lot cheaper to buy oil from the dealers. I’ve got one of those 20L “wine box” jobs, it’s great!
Right..
having read the responses it is clear that best case scenario this is a 30 min job, worst case scenario the car crushes me to death and I can’t be displayed in an open coffin as I’m caked in out of date oil..
to the garage it is.. It seems more grief than it’s worth
Thst would be an expensive bespoke coffin too as you'd be quite thin but unusually wide after the car falls on you
Are you saying that service intervals as stated by manufacturer are wrong?<br />If so, on what basis?
on the basis that cars are rarely driven for 20k on good fuel and few starts. Look at an oil analysis for a commuter vs a motorway rep mobile and youll see massive amounts of fuel dilution (a danger in a diesel) and carbon in the oil. Plus traces of metals showing additional wear. One size doesn't fit all unfortunately. Long service intervals sell cars to companies based on running costs and cost of ownership initially. Changing the oil sooner will prolong the life of any engine. Not realyl an issue for the fist or maybe second owner but for future owners its a potential issue.
Your garage premium is for when it goes wrong, not right 😉 . £50 is not such a bad price for a professional service. Wait till you round/snap the sump plug - it'll look a bargain then.
Transit oil change 30,000 or two years that's Ford spec
Like most things on a car...
It's easy until it isn't.
There is always one bolt. It's always the last one. It's always reached at 1701
Wait till you round/snap the sump plug – it’ll look a bargain then.
The only rounded sump plug I've ever had to deal with in 20+ years of multiple oil changes per year in a 3 car family - is the after one time I sent it to a garage and they chewed it up and I found in 6 months later.
I do mine on the Stepwgn just because the local garages don't know what it is or trust that it takes the standard Honda oil filter. If I'm ordering a filter then I may as well get the oil and DIY it too.
The easiest way is to buy a Lidl oil pump that can pump it directly out of the dipstick tube into a container, but that only really helps if you have an oil filter you can access from the tip of the engine.
I got one of these, they work really well. I still take the drain plug out but usually there's just a little bit left and better than being doused in warm oil.
Eurocarparts or GSF tend to have offers on much of the year, if they've emailed a coupon and it's coming up to service time I get the bits in.
It’s always reached at 1701
You're renting cars from Enterprise?
The easiest option of all is to suck it out of the dipstick hole with the appropriate sucker. In fact, I’m not even sure my Merc has a drain plug, I think you’re meant to do it this way.
What? Seriously, is that a thing now? The world's gone mad.
It's been a thing for gearboxes and diffs for, well, ever.
Girt big straw, jumbo size syringe, slurp, rinse, repeat, 2 bottles in the shower, etc.
on the basis that cars are rarely driven for 20k on good fuel and few starts. Look at an oil analysis for a commuter vs a motorway rep mobile and youll see massive amounts of fuel dilution (a danger in a diesel) and carbon in the oil. Plus traces of metals showing additional wear. One size doesn’t fit all unfortunately. Long service intervals sell cars to companies based on running costs and cost of ownership initially. Changing the oil sooner will prolong the life of any engine. Not realyl an issue for the fist or maybe second owner but for future owners its a potential issue.
^^^ this is what I won't be doing the follow with my own Transit Custom:
Transit oil change 30,000 or two years that’s Ford spec
Mine has the euro6 2.0 diesel with the wet belt - given well-documented issues with the wet belt degredation, I won't risk waiting as long/many miles as the official advice. Fuel dilution of the oil isn't ever a good thing but is particularly bad when your timing belt runs through the oil, like this bloody 2.0 Transit engine. Oil/filter changed annually around 6-8k intervals on mine: every second year doing oil/filter change myself with intervening years via local mechanic to include a fuel filter change too and maintain a stamped service history.
There is always one bolt. It’s always the last one. It’s always reached at 1701
In the case of oil changes, I thought it was 710? Upside down, obviously.
And Opie Oils is a great source for decent oil at good prices - and service parts too.
Back on topic, yes, oil changes are easy to do DIY.
Caveats on:
(a) rounded off sump plug.
(b) "oh nuts, I bought the wrong filter."
(c) "oh nuts, this oil pan is not big enough."
(d) "oh nuts, I didn't buy enough oil."
You’re renting cars from Enterprise?
Deserved more recognition.
thats 150 quid each, or 100 quid for both diy. I also need to replace the oxygen sensors, so thought that would could be done at same time
Oil changes are easy enough.
There's various tools to help get filters off*, personally I much prefer this type to the chain/strap type but it comes down to accessibility, I've got all three (a chain wrench, a strap/lever and this thing) and each car I've had has been different. Also depends if you're doing it from above or below, some cars it's possible from both sides but needs a different tool.
O2 sensors are a bloody nightmare (assuming you mean the exhaust lambda sensor). Depends where it's located, mines on top of the engine at the back under the bulkhead so can't get an impact driver over it. So it's going to need a breaker bar and a prayer it doesn't rip the thread out with it.
*assuming a canister filter, not a cartridge.
How on earth are people rounding off sump plugs, they're barely tight and soaked in oil. It's about the one bolt on the car that's surely impossible to sieze?
Unless the garage apprentice was left unsupervised with the rattle gun on a previous occasion.
What? Seriously, is that a thing now? The world’s gone mad.
Yup, I never trust it (although as note above, some car's don't have a sump plug anymore) and still park the car with the sump plug facing downhill to check that there's no metal down there. But it makes the whole process almost completely mess free.
Run engine for 5 minutes, suck warm oil out into can, remove plug to check for crap, plug straight back in, swap filter, fill with oil, away you go.
Is it essential, no, is it better than a catch pan, absolutely!
I do most jobs on the car, but anything heavy, then it's my local garage - e.g. suspension (that said my son does everything on his car). Certainly one for changing oil more regular than needed. My car only does 3000 a year, but I change it every 12 months.
As the OP is asking about an oil change in winter - erm it's no fun. Cold frozen fingers. Much better on a mild day when it's dry.
Euro 6 2.0 diesel wet belt my engine, as I type is here at a Ford garage getting oil changed and the belt checked for it's a Ford recall as it's just being explained to me all about the possible failure
It will be all documented and we're it to fail before it's booked in ie engine failure Ford will accept liability so they say 60000 miles on the clock
As the OP is asking about an oil change in winter – erm it’s no fun. Cold frozen fingers.
Run the engine for a bit, you'll appreciate it 🙂
A cassette chain whip thing makes a useful filter removal tool, if it's on too tight
You’re renting cars from Enterprise?
Deserved more recognition.
It's a whoosh from me. Care to enlighten?
I’ve got all three (a chain wrench, a strap/lever and this thing)
This sums up the entire thing for me. You either want to do this sort of work, gather all the tools together and do it regularly over years, along with other routine servicing items, and it becomes, in effect, just another household chore that you just get done like sweeping up the leaves, or clearing out the gutters. Or you stump up for a garage to do it for you. It's the folks that fall in between those two options who think "How hard can it be?" that generally come a cropper.
In theory I could do this, I used to build kit-cars, and restore old bangers, and do all my servicing. Do I want to do this? No, not really.
Putting your trust in garages to get things right is rather misplaced, even main dealers get it wrong or don't pay attention to updates. I'm averaging an oil change twice a year, that's more overtime than it would take for me to just do it myself (including my own time).
How on earth are people rounding off sump plugs, they’re barely tight and soaked in oil.
In my experience, and something worth noting, when you embark on your DIY car mechanics journey with a limited selection of tools, nothing ever fits perfectly. There'll be 10 spanners in the box passed down several generations that almost, kinda fit. 4 hours later you'll have the molgrips out.
The tools you have available to you make a big difference.
I know this should go without saying but, please don’t go crawling around under a car which is balanced on a scissor jack. Ramps / axel stands aren’t expensive and are generally preferable to your widow cashing in the life insurance.
Took that as common sense, plus it's been said further up the thread. I use a trolley jack and axle stands for the record, have two jacks and 6 stands.
Where to and how much did it cost?
I use Millers Oil Analysis Kit, costs £40. Not worth doing it for something relatively new but perfect for high mileage cars you intend to keep, trackday cars and classics.
As for the suction pumps? They're fine as long as you know that the oil has always been changed on time and never shown any sign of sludge or metal filings. As soon as there is solids in the oil you need the flow of the oil leaving the drain plug to get it out. Even on a healthy engine that's been looked after you can still find stuff in the sump pan when it's removed.
If your car has an undertray , its a bit of a knack/pain to get back on again.
A clip normally breaks/ get lost and over time you end up breaking all the clips and raiding the bike tool kit for zip ties.
Its been a while since I did my own now , as its now just the yearly service/ (aka safety check) and oil change with local independent, and I cover very few miles now compared to before.
I did extra oil changes (myself) back in the day , circa every 5000 miles , my thoughts are that long oil intervals are a sales thing so its still good to change it regularly, also depends on use a bit as well.
I think the undertray had to come off to reach oil filter from below I forget now.
I've been working on cars since I was a teenager. My dad was a mechanic so I learned to do my own spannering.
I bought a Mazda CX5 last year with the 2.2 diesel engine. Recommended service interval is 12k but thanks to the widgets on Euro 6 engines plus some Mazda specific problems, the owners' groups recommend doing it every 6k.
Did my first change on it earlier this year. Owner's handbook said the oil capacity was 5.1 litres. I have a 6 litre tray for catching the oil.
Car up on the ramps, run the engine for 10 minutes to warm the oil up. Nice removable panels on the undertray to get to the sump plug and oil filter, this'll be easy.
I remove the sump plug and some very smelly oil starts filling the tray. After a minute or so, the oil is still pouring out rapidly and the tray is close to the brim. Panic sets in as I realise the tray is about to overflow with no sign of the oil stopping. I manage to stick a finger over the sump plug and then with my other hand I have to start fishing around in the catch tray, which is full of hot oil, for the sump plug that fell into it when I removed it!
Eventually find it, and manage to get it back in and stop the oil. There's now oil all over my nice monoblocked drive despite putting a huge sheet of cardboard down. I have to tentatively drag the full to the brim tray out from under the car and drain that into my big barrel, then go back under to remove the plug and drain the rest.
I reckon there was at least 7+ litres of oil that came out an engine that was supposed to hold 5.1. Turns out that the reason there was so much oil was due to far too frequent DPF regens, thanks to some knackered injector nozzles, resulting in poor combustion and the ECU triggering the regens every 30 miles rather than the typical 200 miles. DPF regens will cause some diesel to enter the oil and dilute it but under normal conditions it's not a problem as even the standard oil change intervals will be enough, but with me getting 7 regens in the period you'd normally expect 1, my dilution was happening far too quickly.
The next job was changing all four injectors which was thankfully an easy job and the oil has been perfect since!
For those advocating garages.
My brother took his A3 to an indy for a oil and filters service.
They stripped the thread on the sump plug .
£390 later , new sump , new gasket , new oil plus labour , he got his car back .
He just took it on the chin and paid up . But what else can you do . You need the car back , working so you pay up.
Another garage I know put in double the oil , on a petrol engine and it blew the core plug out of the block .
Skilled technicians my aris
@boardinbob Aaand that's a war story supporting the 'don't touch it with a very long spanner unless you know what you're doing' theory. You obviously do but still knackered the drive etc from something that, on the face of it, is quite a trivial job.
I do oil changes on my motorbikes and have done cars in the (very) distant past. I'm not sure I would recognise 7l of oil in a 5l capacity system as failed regen. Lucky you caught it as diluted oil is not doing its oily job properly is it?
My Ford 2 litre Duratorq engine3 has a plastic moulded sump and a plastic quarter-turn sump plug + R clip.
The good news is its can't be over-tightened by an eeejit with an air gun.
Bad news is that there is no magnetic end to draw out any iron particles.