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My Park beam deflection type have always served me well but I'm chasing a creak and my Park ones don't fit in the gap I've got.
Norbar do a TTI20 and an SL0. Both are 3/8 drive, both are 1-20 Nm which puts my requirement mid range which is great.
The TTI20 lists as being more accurate at plus or minus 3% instead of 4%.
It also offers finer adjustment at 0.1Nm rather than 1Nm (all according to the Cromwell site).
To top it off, the TTI is cheaper. Am I missing something? I know the SL0 has a lot of fans on here.
My mate has the one with 0.1 increments, it's fantastic.
His came with a calibration certificate from the day before he got it!
Lovely bit of kit, made in Banbury, I think his nephew works for them.
Can't really see how you could improve on it.
Thanks. I'm set on one of the Norbar I mentioned above, just trying to work out which one.
I don't think the SLO is not being manufactured any longer. But there were many different versions of the SLO, covered different versions of the Type 2 style listed in BS EN 6789.
I think Norbar claimed the SLO was better than the international std ±4% of reading too.
Go for a TTI20, typical good quality tool made by munchkins in Banbury.
Hot on Torque at the moment, have a 17025 audit in a couple of weeks.
Cheers Lee. I they still list the SL0. I think I might need to give them a call. The difference could be the head clearance. The TTi looks the better unit but if only the SL0 fits then the choice is made.
both are 1-20 Nm which puts my requirement mid range which is great.
You do realise the SL0 is a fixed head (not ratcheting)?
SL0 is also 4-20Nm per [url= https://www.norbar.com/en-au/products/view/product/categoryname/sl0-wrenches/rangename/sl0-adjustable-ratchet-and-fixed-head/pname/model-sl0-plastic-knob-3-8-fixed-n-m-lbf-in/category_multid/62/range_multid/12/id/1182 ]Norbar's website[/url].
I would also have thought that 1/4" drive would usually be a better choice for bike use for torque in that range, since the smaller hex bits, e.g. 5mm, are more commonly 1/4" drive.
You do realise the SL0 is a fixed head
My SL0 is ratcheting. The SL0 torque setting only works one way (tightening normal threads). I think the TTi works both ways so if you have any reverse threads that may be a better option.
Edit: May be wrong there, TTi looks like it's only one way too.
They do a few SL0. I was looking at the ratchet metal rather than the fixed plastic version. Fixed head isn't a problem and might even be necessary given the access limitations.
Bottom bracket and pedals are the only reverse threads I can think off. Neither fit the 1-20Nm range so I don't suppose that's a worry but I didn't know that.
3/8 drive is going to help with access as I can use a crowfoot to reduce the stack height a bit.
I've got a Norbar torque wrench - lovely tool.
We also use them at work for assembling £200k compressors where bolt torque is pretty important for bearing pre-loading, etc.