[Closed] inspired by shed threads, do you think its possible for.....

Been looking at doing similar to keep my bikes in and brew beer, my base is a bit bigger (3.6x4.7m).

1-2 courses of blockwork (splash zone and my base is imperial level so the blockwork will get me real level), then stick built (as per american houses 18" spacing) with a lightweight insulated roof (looks like tiles, but are in fact big self supporting sheets). Sparky for the plugs and the like.

Roof apex is 9', wall height away from the house is 8' to allow bikes to be stacked 2 high and closest wall is 7' high.

I have a circular saw, compound mitre saw (make stuff like this a breeze), makita drill with extra battery pack, roofers mitre and a lot of troplicalised wood screws (get good screws, go in so much easier).

My budget is e4K, as it's really hard to get as many bargains in ireland (still pondering making or buying a security door). The tools all up cost ~£350.

These days we are all able to access online tutorials and videos about doing virtually anything. I'd say absolutely have a go!

On your own property you also have the luxury of taking your time and so are able to scavenge for free to use materials.

There is endless information and resources for help out there and plenty of folk only too willing to help out where they can so yeah, have a go.

First port of call might be to find some images of other structures you like or do a few rough sketches just so that you can start putting forward ideas of the sort of thing you want.

Very happy to help if I can and you'll get much greater sense of achievement doing something yourself.
🙂

Yes of course you can. STW is a great source for info as is Google. Just take your time, research, budget, budget & budget. Find friendly local suppliers & visit when they're not busy. So much cave potential right there.

ok thanks, ill dip me toes in then 🙂 ill start by asking how to get a flat base, thats important right? all that waste ground is uneven and im assuming id need to build it up to same level as the concrete square so im left with one large area 7.5m X 3m yep? would i need more wood on the concrete and build up the rest with bricks or stone or somethings underneath lengths of 4X2 or somethings?

thanks

just thinking...... we got a pile of gravel out the front of the house thats left over from the edge of the drive. would it be a good idea to shovel it all over the 'uneven ground' part of the plot and building it up to the 'flat concrete square' level? thered be nothing holding it all in, but would it be better to work with than whats there now?

EDIT: just been out for another look and i dont think theres enough, but is it still a good idea to use it to make a flat area anyway, itd just be lower and require building up with more wood. or should i just build it up with wood anyway and forget about the gravel?

EDIT EDIT: a quick google images show the sort of thing i had in mind but with a walled back too. smaller shed area than that tho, maybe not as grand. also maybe joined onto back of garage and with whatever roofs easiest to do.
[img] [/img]
seems ambitious when i look at it now :-/

Yep. I built this from scratch without much woodworking experience.

[IMG] [/IMG]

There are parts I look back on and think I could have done it better but I'm pretty happy with it overall.

Im in the process of laying out a concrete base for my self assembly shed coming in 10 days.
I've already dug the base out, will concentrate on levelling it this weekend, then filling with old bricks & hardcore before framing it out and topping it with 4" concrete for a level base.
Then comes the shed building......

Sorry there were too many disclaimers and as a result we need to see photographs of the rest of your garden to prove that this is the only neglected bit.

Oh, and it's a good excuse to buy loads of tools...

Context is a key factor in design so to be in keeping with its surroundings I've created a moodboard/ brain dump below:

[img] [/img]

[img] ?w=600[/img]

[img] [/img]

Sorry there were too many disclaimers and as a result we need to see photographs of the rest of your garden to prove that this is the only neglected bit.

yeah the grass needs a cut...... 😀

[img] [/img]

thestabiliser.
Your last picture is the Wolvo Tramp.
He used to keep the central resevation he lived on immaculate. 🙂
Always cleaning up shit that people though was ok to throw out of their cars. 😐

Go for it. There's not a lot that can go wrong. If something looks right, it generally is. You wont need much in the way of tools. A spirit level, tape, a square, saw, hammer and nails. Some G clamps are invaluable for assembling things single handed. There's a lot of good advice to be found on here. Never be afraid to ask.

^^^^

A set of 4 big g-clamps were probably the most useful tool for the whole build.

But a battery powered circular saw was really bloody useful too...

right, ive been chatting to friends, reading online, asking about, i now have some idea of how im going to do this.
first things first, the base.
rather than have a flat base, im going to have a sort of 'floating floor'. 8 thick columns concreted in about 2 ft deep (above pic shows the sort of thing i mean ^^^), screw 5X1 sections to them to make the outside square base, then more 5X1 cross beams also screwed to that square in maybe half metre intervals. then support all the wood thats 'off the floor' with bricks, blocks of wood, anything really as it wont be seen. thatll give me the base for a load of decking planks to go over the top for the floor.
so thisll take me to the point where i have a floor plus 8 'big columns' sticking out of the ground.

does this sound a decent plan?

Concrete piles are an easy way to level up a site. I had an 18" drop across the site I built that shed.

Cardboard postal tubes are the best way to form them. I got mine from defendapak

that sounds a neat trick. obviously at the time you dont know what size piles you want til the frames been built and supported with bricks/stones etc. is that what you did, then measure each drop needed, cut tubes to match and fill with concrete?

also whats the ideal wood for me to buy for this, tanalised, pressure treated etc. id like as little maintenance as poss later, but cost is also a factor.

also just out of curiosity, what did you need the g-clamps for? i can only see bits of wood needing cutting and screwing together, not sure where these would be needed.

Dig the holes, put the tubes in, get them level across, fill with concrete. Wait til they've set and then build a wooden frame on top.

G-clamps are handy for tacking stuff together until your ready to fix them. Like a second/third pair of hands when you working on your own.

I used c16 pressure treated timber for the shell of mine, 6x2 for the floor, 4x2 for the walls and roof. Got the 6x2's dirt cheap at b&q as they were clearing out 4m lengths at less than half price. 4x2's were from wickes which seemed to be best balance of price & quality.

Dig the holes, put the tubes in, get them level across, fill with concrete. Wait til they've set and then build a wooden frame on top.

Search for some of mcmoonters threads then. That was my other approach I considered. Vertical posts with a ring beam top and bottom tying it all together.

just been searching but only found one thread that was relevant to me, and the great man did indeed advise 4X4 posts a foot or two down and to use them for cladding to. thats my plan for the shed end as it doesnt matter too much about looks, so normal fence panel overlap wood will do for that. the gazebo id like to look a bit nicer but not sure what my options are for the two walls, might end up being the same i spose.

Vertical posts with a ring beam top and bottom tying it all together.

my first concern i think will be the prep for the base. ill string it out i think but then i need to make sure the holes are dug to line up exactly. then the big problem for me will be having to have 8 posts stuck 6ft or so out the ground and stabilised exactly so they dont move when concretes setting.

any tips for that?

http://singletrackmag.com/forum/topic/maybe-january-isnt-the-best-time-to-start-building-a-new-shed

Try this one.

thanks. shame hes removed pretty much all of the pics but theres enough there to encourage me im thinking along the right lines. its also changed my mind about concreting the posts, apparently they rot quicker, so ill stick em in soil. im thinking with the top and bottom screwed to the posts, plus the cross beams itll be reet 🙂
probably easier to get plumb as well and not such a disaster if i need to relocate one slightly.

quick question as i think of them.... should i use some sort of angle bracket to screw planks to these posts, or just simply 2 screws each end into the posts?

thanks

There are some pics here in my blog

http://www.petermclarenfineart.com/Blog/Studio-Build-Blog

To get the posts in line, stretch some builders string as tightly between two pegs about six inches above the ground. Dig your post holes along the line with say the outside edge of your posts touching the line. If they are out of line they will deflect it. It's an easy way way to check.

An easy way to space the distance between your posts is to cut length of wood to the space dimension then nail that to a longer length leaving tabs at each end that you can clamp to your vertical posts. If you make a pair of spacers, one fir the top and one for the bottom you should be able to keep the verticals parallel more easily. Temporarily cross brace the posts as you work along the line then move the spacers to the next gap. Once you have them all in line clamp and nail your bottom rail and top rails along the line of posts.

I usually nail rather than use screws. A good timber merchant should sell you a 25kg box of nails for around £30

Keep it level and square at all times it will make your job so much easier ...just built a 13 ft x 8 ft chillout space cost altogether about £800

Firstly £1800 sounds cheap. Either it's a bargain or it's made of rubbish.

If you make it yourself, it will be a nice feeling, you'll know it inside out and you'll be more inclined to look after it meaning it may last 20+ years.

As long as you can follow instructions, you'll be fine.
Hardly any learned skills involved.

Get a good chop saw, a good drill and a nice hammer.
Look online for some plans and see how it's put together - there's a wide variety.

Thanks, at work at present so will follow up tonight. Mates keep coming up with ideas, such as trying to make it more rustic by using lengths of tree trunks for the gazebo posts, and maybe sawn off sections of tree trunks to go underneath the floor at the front of the gap to make it look like a log store. Worth considering you think?

If you are thinking of using sheet material for any walls then consider these dimensions when spacing the joists. You cannot easily or nicely join sheets in mid air, much better to join them at a joist.
Walls that are 4 or 8 or 12 foot wide are likely to waste less timber and require fewer cuts.

G-clamps are handy for tacking stuff together until your ready to fix them. Like a second/third pair of hands when you working on your own.

Quick clamps are even better - lighter and you can work them one handed - no point having a second pair of hands that requires a second pair of hands. -

[img] [/img]

ones like this are more than good enough and only cost a few quid.

If you can find them Wolfcraft EZH or Wurth One Handed Bar Clamps have a double trigger giving you modulation on both tighten and release so you can ratchet the clamp open one handed rather just have it pop open. They are a godsend. A lot of clamps look similar but don't give you that control over spreading the jaws.

^^^^

thats pretty much what I have. £10 for two at wickes I seem to remember. got about 6 now.

If you are thinking of using sheet material for any walls then consider these dimensions when spacing the joists. You cannot easily or nicely join sheets in mid air, much better to join them at a joist.
Walls that are 4 or 8 or 12 foot wide are likely to waste less timber and require fewer cuts.

good point. im not considering sheets at the moment but i spose the same applies for lengths of wood? dont want to be cutting lengths at about two-thirds say and not being able to use the remainder. ill have to suss out what length the planks come in.

have a double trigger giving you modulation on both tighten and release so you can ratchet the clamp open one handed rather just have it pop open

another thing i thought of, ill probably have to cut every single piece of wood i use. i assume ill have to treat the cut end before using? im thinking wood will be pressure treated firstly but cut ends will be vulnerable wont they?

first free day to start prepping and working out what i want today. dont think i can do better prices than nearby[i]ish[/i] woodyard who'll deliver for £12.

havent decided on roof yet so id appreciate thoughts. looking at my original pics in OP, i think rather than join the structure to the garage, ill leave a small gap between them for access to rear of buildings, plus if theyre different buildings im not tied to doing exactly the same shaped roof.

ive thought of still doing a pitched roof, with maybe felt shingles (£25 per 2 sq/m) or just going easier and having a pent (or even very slightly sloping flat) roof sloping back, which means i wont see the roof, so felt sheet would be adequate.
if i went pitched with shingles, im also thinking id only need to do the front in shingles as the rear would never be seen.

thoughts please?

thoughts please?

think about the roof some more. it keeps the water out 😉

think about the roof some more. it keeps the water out

Oi! now come on, you cant leave any questions unanswered, else my shed will look sh1t! 😀

todays question..... im looking at building it to match sizes of available lengths of wood from woodyard, (or near as dammit), to minimise waste. if i have a 7m rear wall, and i can buy 3.6m or 4.2m lengths, that works out fine (use 3.6 lengths cut down to 3.5 twice), but i [i]had been[/i] planning on 4 posts in the ground along that length, so in effect 3 'sections'. that obviously doesnt work out fine cos thered be nowt to nail the ends to in the middle.
so my question is, if i just had 3 posts in the ground instead (either end and one in middle) would that be substantial enough to nail 3.5m shiplap lengths to or too flexy? im guessing id be needing some support in the middle of the 3.5 lengths too, but could that come from part of the framework rather than extra posts in the ground?

thanks

When the going gets vague = overbuild it!!! 😉

A stud wallin a house would be at 600mm centres, I think in a ship lap shed you could probably double that. If you feel it reqiuires too many posts, you could nail a 4x2 to the floor and roof ring beam instead f all it's there for is to give you something to add rigidity to the shiplap.

In reply to your email, if I were to build a shed, I'd err towards maximizing the interior enclosed space rather than worry too much about a covered gazebo space. Ite easy enough to add a secondary lean to for sitting under or storing logs.

I think in a ship lap shed you could probably double that.

If you feel it reqiuires too many posts, you could nail a 4x2 to the floor and roof ring beam instead f all it's there for is to give you something to add rigidity to the shiplap.

I'd err towards maximizing the interior enclosed space rather than worry too much about a covered gazebo space. Ite easy enough to add a secondary lean to for sitting under or storing logs.

thanks a lot

"builder has quoted me £1800"

The tools you will need to buy to DIY, will cost you at least half of that. Let alone the materials. Unless you buy really crappy cheap tools which might just about last for the one job. But then, good quality tools will be an investment, if you plan to take on other jobs in the future.

Paying someone to do it is always providing someone with employment, which is a good thing. Unless they're crap and you're left with a disaster that collapses!

DoingIY is an opportunity to lean skills. I wouldn't rely on online guides/advice though; get someone you know who knows what they're doing, to help you out (pay them if necessary). Don't make the typical macho mistake of thinking 'well other blokes can do this, so surely I can'. I have seen so many blokes' egos crushed by such pig-headed foolishness. Be prepared to make mistakes. Keep your plans simple, and don't be tempted to over-elaborate things.

And good luck! Post pics of WIP up on here. 🙂

good advice. ive got a lad at work with all decent tools and good knowledge, so ill be rewarding him afterwards for all his help. the lad who quoted me for building it is another mate who still hasnt finished our bathroom yet 8 weeks into a '1 week build' so this is what spurred me on to thinking i may as well have a bash meself 😀

ill certainly be posting pics up as and when i do anything (a sort of mcmoonter-lite if you will). the starter pics are in the OP and the only thing ive done so far is cut all next doors bushes out of my garden, and string all the sizes out, and even then i keep changing my mind 😀 off camping for two days today, so im hoping to start digging some holes saturday.

Oh, and you'll need Festool stuff. You will.

[img] [/img]

this is where im a little confused, so bear with me please..... im assuming once all the posts are in the ground, ill be nailing 4X2 ring beams to the outside of those posts, so in effect widening everything by 4".

It wouldn't, all you would be doing is adding an unburied post between those buried either side. Instead of digging a hole you'd simply be nailing it to your floor and roof rails. These would occupy the same space as the 4x4s except they'd just be 4x2s to give you something to nail the ship lap to.

Sorry, I'm not explaining myself very well 🙂
I meant if the posts are say 7m apart, once I've nailed 4X2 to the outside of them all round, my width is now 7m plus 4" as I've just added the width of the 4X2 to it yes?

And the unburied posts between roof and floor, how do I fix to the roof and floor rings as I can't nail from underneath, am I driving nails in at say a 45 degree angle?

Thanks 🙂

"once I've nailed"

Nailed? 😯

Don't nail boards to a frame. Nails are ok when you want to join timbers that will be subject to twisting/moving, but outer cladding should be screwed on. The same as if you're doing a deck. I always try to use fasteners as little as possible, and do things the 'old fashioned way', with proper mortice and tenon joints etc, but this is a much slower process. But if it's a 'project', there's no harm in trying a bit of simple joinery.

I've been commissioned to build an allotment shed in the autumn, so I'll be watching this thread with interest.

with proper mortice and tenon joints etc

on a shed?

"on a shed?"

Why not? Plenty of examples of very old buildings with timbers frames, that have been constructed using proper joinery techniques rather than nails. I accept many might think such endeavour a bit overkill on a shed, but if you're going to do a job, why not do it as well as possible?

My woodwork bench is all M+T'ed. It's as solid as anything. The shed I build in the autumn will be constructed using traditional joinery techniques as much as possible. I'm really looking forward to the challenge; I know it will be more complex and take longer than doing it simply, with screws and nails etc, but so what? I'll gain far more from the experience.

That's fine for you clohopper, but looking at the questions the OP is asking, I think you've leapt too far.

99% of shed builds (even quality self-builds) have nailed-on cladding, so your exclamation is confusing to the OP and misplaced.

yeah, thanks for the advice mate, and no its not confusing, i take it all on board before deciding which way to go.

but no, i wont be using M&T joints or anything like that, ill be using the usual nails or screws. if mcmoonter says nails are good enough thats probably what ill do. but im still a little confused still as to how id be fastening in these 'middle posts' to roof and floor ring beams.....

If you want to keep the posts and ring beams in the same plane then you can either use halving joints or use butt joints diagonally screwed/nailed together. Over a long run these joints may need to be supported when hammering the nails in to fix the cladding, a nail gun or screws would be an advantage in that respect
An alternative approach might be to make panels separately that you can slot between the posts, similar to many flat pack sheds

"That's fine for you clohopper, but looking at the questions the OP is asking, I think you've leapt too far.

99% of shed builds (even quality self-builds) have nailed-on cladding, so your exclamation is confusing to the OP and misplaced."

I wasn't suggesting that they build a shed the way I would. Actually, without skills and experience, I'd probably advise them to pay someone else to do it, or at least get someone with suitable skills and experience to help them. But in the spirit of 'nothing ventured, nothing gained', I'd be looking into making it an educational project, rather than just following instructions for a flat-pack shed (which are generally pretty poor quality anyway).

"If you want to keep the posts and ring beams in the same plane then you can either use halving joints or use butt joints diagonally screwed/nailed together. "

A halving joint is actually a really easy, simple joint to start out with. You only need a couple of basic tools, it won't take long, and it's an effective joint. Butt joints are only ever effective when absolutely nothing will move; a lightweight timber frame will invariably move a bit, and using butt joints will not help at all in this regard. A bit of scrap wood, a laptop and basic tools (ruler, try square, pencil, clamps, saw, chisel, mallet), and you can learn something really useful!

Anyone can put up a shed. Getting it to stay up, is slightly more challenging. But have fun! 🙂

got £700s worth of wood being delivered friday for my framework and decking *gulp
ill get the shiplap later when i know exactly how much i want, and also the roof materials. which leads me to ask for some advice on which type of roof to go for now......

i thought the pent roof would be easiest (it will be) and cheapest (it will be) but wanted a bit of advice on working sizes out and pricing stuff up.

roof will need to cover 7m X 3.2m. lets say its all built bar the roof. id have everything done and the top would be around 7 roof joists across the framework. i say 7 as i believe the best way of covering a pent roof would be 9 X OSB (£180) in 3 x 2.4 lengths across, and 3 x 1.2 down. then theyd need supporting halfway along each length. then felt around £60 for 30m sq.

so the cost of pent roof would be roughly £240 which is far more than i thought tbh. question 1....... is this the cheapest way of doing a pent roof and do my costings seem about right?

now, if i go for better looking, pitched roof with felt shingles say, ive worked out my costs to be......
£20 per triangle braced section of 4x2, of which id need 7 (each triangle support to be nailed onto one of the 7 joists) = £140
12 x OSB as thered be extra roof space now as its pitched (im guessing around 35-40sqm) = £240!!
felt shingles seem to be around £25 per 2msq, so around £450!
bit of extra shiplap for the gables..who cares, the budgets gone!!

so my costs for a simple pitched roof would appear to be around £850+!!

that all seem like reasonable working out?

i started playing around with ideas, such as only using shingles on half the roof (the back half cant be seen) which saves £225 but id still be around £625.

so, like i say, for all those in the know, does this all sound reasonable pricing for something of this size or am i missing any tricks which can make it all cheaper?

cheers, it all seems a bit complicated ^^^ so thanks if youve stayed with me 🙂

That's a big heavy roof for 7 joists IMO.

That's a big heavy roof for 7 joists IMO.

im thinking each OSB will be supported at each end and in the middle, that not enough you reckon?

Glad you picked up on not concreting the legs. Holds moisture in and makes them a pain to replace.

Depending on your final design, you could save digging some holes at the garage end by bolting a wall plate (chunky bit of timber like 6"x2"horizontally) to the garage and running joist hangers off them as I imagine the garage will have some sort of footing that will make it hard to bury posts up snug.

Considered corrugated roof? Ignore if it doesn't suit your aesthetic.

Glad you picked up on not concreting the legs. Holds moisture in and makes them a pain to replace.

Depending on your final design, you could save digging some holes at the garage end by bolting a wall plate (chunky bit of timber like 6"x2"horizontally) to the garage and running joist hangers off them as I imagine the garage will have some sort of footing that will make it hard to bury posts up snug.

Considered corrugated roof? Ignore if it doesn't suit your aesthetic.

"builder has quoted me £1800"

The tools you will need to buy to DIY, will cost you at least half of that. Let alone the materials. Unless you buy really crappy cheap tools which might just about last for the one job. But then, good quality tools will be an investment, if you plan to take on other jobs in the future.

I agree with this statement above. Although to some extent it depends on your mind frame.

1. If your doing it your self buy some decent tools they make a real difference to how quickly and easily you can do the job.

2. Again If doing it your self buy decent materials, dont be trying to save on this and that your'll only be disappointed with the results.

The main reason not to get some one to do it is if your fussy.
If you are fussy and want some one to do it you need to plan every last detail ahead and tell them.

I find when I do stuff I tend to make it up as I go along (maybe not a good plan) but I do think deeply about stuff once I get going so Im normally pleased with the results.

I've found getting others in to the do jobs, I havent given enough info to them to begin with and stuff is never where I expect it.

Assuming that you're in the UK I'd do some snow calcs. I think that 6" of wet snow could add a surprising load to a pent roof of that size

we get some real hoolies at times

i started playing around with ideas, such as only using shingles on half the roof (the back half cant be seen) which saves £225 but id still be around £625.

I re-covered my knackered shed roof with corrugated bitumen sheets from B&Q which are light and not too expensive.

[quote=hamishthecat ]I re-covered my knackered shed roof with corrugated bitumen sheets from B&Q which are light and not too expensive.

you probably mean onduline?

if so, buy it from wickes. its the same price as the B&Q version but significantly thicker.

Now you mention it, I think it was Wickes.

you mean [url= http://www.wickes.co.uk/Green-Corrugated-Bitumen-Sheet-950-x-2000mm/p/240059 ]this stuff?[/url]?

just done some quick fag packet calcs, which show about £336 for a moderately pitched roof. are we saying then that this stuff can be used straight onto joists and would be substantial enough? or would i still need the OSBs underneath?

thanks

you can put it straight onto joists but it can sag, i've got mine on top of OSB.

hmmmm.......decisions.... still, i dont have to decide yet, ill be a while getting up to that level 🙂

I agree with this statement above. Although to some extent it depends on your mind frame.

1. If your doing it your self buy some decent tools they make a real difference to how quickly and easily you can do the job.

2. Again If doing it your self buy decent materials, dont be trying to save on this and that your'll only be disappointed with the results.

I'd be tempted to try and find some offcut/reject kingspan type insulation to put under the corrugated if you use that. Nb, I've overhung the walls quite a lot more than the spec said, mainly to avoid cutting the sheets and they haven't sagged at all.

and ill be buying decent shiplap i think

having just got a load of shiplap for my own shed build (albeit smaller) - make sure you get a discount! I paid just over 50% of list price, just by asking. I got around 100m of 150mm x 25mm (finished 140x20) so nice and solid, treated, for about £300. I expect your bill will be a bunch higher. They did try to sell me on concrete 'hardiplank' cladding, which I guess lasts much longer - I decided against it due to the costs.

For the OSB, you can probably get thinner/worse rated OSB and it'd be fine - wickes do 11mm OSB2 for a tenner a sheet if you buy a few - that's half the price you're listing. I'm covering mine with rubber (firestone) sheet from ebay - it works out more costly than shingles but should (I hope) be more waterproof and last longer

I used 9mm OSB3 on the roof.

I built a shed recently and learnt a few things.

It will take a lot longer than you think, you will make mistakes, but you'll learn a lot. You'll also develop rough manly hands for a while.

If you ask for trade prices at timber merchants you'll usually get them.

Before you buy all the tools, ask your friends, as chances are some of them have done somthing similar, and now have a bunch of tools sitting somewhere getting dusty that you could use. The more types of saw you can borrow the better, and having more than one drill can save a lot of time, plus you can never have too many clamps.

"you can never have too many clamps."

Still not enough:

[img] [/img]

I'd be tempted to try and find some offcut/reject kingspan type insulation

There's a website which sells rejects...I'll see if I can find it.

Cladding doesn't have to be treated timber, if you use the right stuff it will naturally silver beautifully.

See for example:

I'd be tempted to try and find some offcut/reject kingspan type insulation to put under the corrugated if you use that

There's a website which sells rejects...I'll see if I can find it.

You may be aware, but rain soaks through shiplap (or any other wood). You need to paint or double skin it with a membrane in between if you want to avoid a damp interior.

having just got a load of shiplap for my own shed build (albeit smaller) - make sure you get a discount!

I used 9mm OSB3 on the roof.

For the OSB, you can probably get thinner/worse rated OSB and it'd be fine - wickes do 11mm OSB2 for a tenner a sheet if you buy a few - that's half the price you're listing.

douglas fir cladding ^^^

thanks all, i appreciate it.

well, disappointed today, travis perkins lorry apparently broke down on way to deliver my wood and it didnt get here til after dinner. it means my mate who was going to come over and help hasnt had time to, so im left twiddling my thumbs. decided to spend the time double checking sizes and maybe gamble on getting the first post in. then at least if its in the wrong place everything else can work to that 🙂

laid the decking and a post out to check sizes and yes, i need to er....'move some holes' a little bit 😀

ive taken a pic of my new fag packet sizes and wanted to run it by you to double check im not being daft.
my official drawing so far is this......
[img] [/img]

ive numbered the posts so if you need to ask a question its easy to identify which area we're talking about. basically ive got posts 1-8 in a 7m X 3.2m oblong for roof purposes, thats why 8s out on its own.
pic is the floor area. the solid lines are the 4X2. the x's are where i plan to put supporting struts of 2X2. the x's to left of post 9 are for the door frame. theres an extra x nailed onto post 3 for the shiplap to tack onto.

all the 4X2 will have corresponding 4X2 at roof height.

the 4x2 on the [i]inside[/i] of posts 1,2 and 3 is because the shaded parts are the shiplap. and as i want the shiplap to be the 'inside cladding' it has to go this side. same with the wall from post 3 towards 7, stopping at shed front, leaving a gap to see through.

do you agree with my sizing on the 5,6,7 posts? the decking is 4.8 per board, so once the 4x2 is nailed onto the posts itll add 4" (0.100m) so i need the posts to be 4.7? and then that ickle drawing bottom left is the er..'plan design(?)' which shows what i mean and includes a decking board over the 4x2 to finish off the edges of the decking.

there are reasons why im making it a little more complicated than just one big oblong, mainly to do with preserving as much of the view we have as possible, and the internal shiplap creates problems i know. but as you cant see the back of any of this im not too bothered about what that looks like, not the inside of the shed, it just needs to look nice from the inside of the gazebo.

thanks if you can actually understand what im doing here and have any comments to make 🙂

EDIT: looking at the pic now in the thread, it does look a bit small to see the detail so apologies for that.

EDIT EDIT: thinking about it more, im not sure that internal cladding can work, so i may have to just accept its external cladding and all posts will be on show inside the gazebo. ill think on that some more later but main thing for now is the floor, so as long as i get my posts 4.7 from end to end i should be ok with that shouldnt i?

why insulation? to make it quieter when it rains or somethings? most of roof will be over an open gazebo and the shed is just well.... a shed

Think I'd misunderstood the size and function of your shed. I use mine as a bike workshop so want it as warm as possible in the winter.

"why insulation? to make it quieter when it rains or somethings? most of roof will be over an open gazebo and the shed is just well.... a shed "

Warm air rises and escapes through uninsulated materials. Are you going to be spending any time in your shed? Trust me; in winter, you will be thankful for all-round insulation. Insulate everything; ceiling, walls, the lot. And think about the ground; what material will it be? Concrete? Wooden boards? If you'll be standing around a lot, then consider some anti-fatigue matting. Makes a huge difference to comfort, and is relatively cheap. Insulation and moisture protection will also help keep your tools corrosion free.

nope, shed will be for lawnmower, barbies, garden sh1te etc, just to clear a bit of space from the garage. the main aim of this project is to tidy up a real scruffy area of garden and make it into something we'd like to use for socialising ie a gazebo. we'd looked at buying a pop up gazebo anyway so altho this is more expensive it should be a lot nicer. the shed is just an incidental tag on the end as we have room for one so may as well build it into the structure.

btw, of all the wood i got today, some of the 4x2s are twisted. is this normal, will they just push back into line when fixed onto the posts? or should i be ringing for swapsies?

I had a lot of that last year - some were okay when trying to fix but others split. Nowadays I visit the yard and cherry pick the lengths I want and weigh down any I'm not going to use immediately.

It's shit - they're not exactly cheap but are good for nothing once too warped. I also had a post that eventually twisted a full 90? when it finally dried. Pissed me off so much I ripped it up and replaced - a Hulk moment.

If you can swap them, do so.

If you can swap them, do so.

this build isnt doing me any favours, its all im thinking about now, and im up early again today cos im just laid there thinking about things.

todays 'mind problem' which may change the way i build the framework is....
ive been pondering on how im going to clad it. i was thinking i nail onto the 4x4 posts at the end, then halfway between them will be these 'intermediate' studs to tack on to as well. and these studs will be fixed between the floor and roof 4x2s using angle brackets. somethings been bothering me tho as i couldnt get it in my head how itd work out, and ive just twigged why. the studs will have to be nailed to the [i]inside[/i] of the 4x2 wont they, so the face of them is in the same plane as the posts?
and the cladding wont actually be nailed to the floor and roof 4x2s but run [i]between[/i] them?