[Closed] Cheap 3d printer kits - Experiences?

I have a Chinese 3D printer, Wanhao D5S and it is really good, prints reasonably quickly and doesn't need configuring every print.

I would recommend the Wanhao Duplicator i3, cheap but good for the money as it comes with heated build plate and MK10 extruder. When I looked into it, you buy a cheap printer, get into it and realise that you need to improve this n that and then you've spent double the money..

I use Fusion 360 to design things which can be printed. Again loads of tutorials on that. There are loads of websites that you can download designs and effectively print them. Thingiverse is the most well known.

How easy is it to get up and running?
Pretty easy, the hard bit is learning the effects of changing settings as one thing usually affects another, but you won't be able to learn this until you have a printer.

Thoughts
Do not get hung up on specs such as layer height. You will rarely printer lower than 0.2mm layer height due to the amount of time it will take, reducing to 0.1mm will double the print time. My printer goes to 0.05mm layer height, I have only ever printed at that height once, due to the stupid amount of time it takes to print.
Same goes for build plate area, you will rarely print something as big as your build plate due to the print time. I have a giant lego batman head to print which is about 160mm diameter and 180mm tall, it says it may take 24hours to print! I have yet to build up the courage to print while I'm out or in bed and need to buy a smoke alarm for the room the printer is in.

Once you get your printer I'll be happy to give you pointers. 😉

Interesting. I quite fancy a 3D printer, but the biggest sticking point I can see is not having anything remotely useful to print on it.

Do those of you who have invested regularly print anything other than keyrings or batman heads??

I've got a Wanhao Duplicator i3 as mentioned above, cheap and cheerful! They are notorious for bed leveling issues though. Once it's dialed in and a few mods applied then it's a good entry level option.

Do those of you who have invested regularly print anything other than keyrings or batman heads??

My first 3 months were spent printing models, things that had no function and I did not need. I'm always building a project or something in my spare time, so it does come in quite handy.

No experience but this looks impressive for the money (£217 on Amazon, probably cheaper elsewhere)
This video also answers some of the "what do you print" questions.

And DIY Perks (who seems like a decent chap) likes the Anet A8 Desktop 3D which you can get for £124 from GearBest:

I've had a mini fabrikator for a couple of years and have just got an anet a8 as I was frustrated with only having a 80mm3 build volume.
The fabrikator was pretty perfect out of the box, other than adjusting the stepper voltages, and doesn't show any z wobble even on 'big' prints.
The anet is only about 3 weeks old now and I'm still tweeking it, it's not awful out of the box but you can tell it's built to a price. I've needed to enlarge the holes the zaxis steppers screw through to align the z rods, one of the acrylic parts hadn't had all the holes laser cut in it so I had to drill about 4 holes while building it and even with an auto level sensor and firmware upgrade the first layer is occasionally uneven causing the print to fail quite quickly.
If you're not a confident tinkerer I think you'd have real problems getting it working to an acceptable level.

I have a Tevo Tarantula, which I think is the Prusa ripoff that the Anet has ripped off. Good wee unit but really stands out from the competition because of the community- I'm in the middle of a dual Z axis rebuild of mine, I could mount the bed on solid rails, expand it in size pretty much indefinitely...

It's on sale here http://www.gearbest.com/3d-printers-3d-printer-kits/pp_628790.html.

Definitely worth springing for a heated bed (Tarantula has it as standard, it's usually an add-on). I went for the big 200x280 bed and tbh I've never made any use of that.

I've not printed an awful lot of real value- in fact msotly I've printed parts for the printer 🙂 Some parts for my other silly hobby, tuned up nerf guns, which will pay for the printer sooner or later. I've had a lot of fun with it but I'll be honest, I suck at the printer software side (not design and slicing, but the actual firmware) and that's limited me a bit.

they're a novelty tbh but alright, interesting enough, if you can waste a couple of hundred quid go for it. I've got a prusa variant. glass hot bed(any toughened glass will do, I got a bit made and holes drilled for screws and some) and hair spray stick most things and easy to get off.

I have ordered a Tevo Tarantula so let's see what it is like when it turns up. 10 days and counting

Nice one WCA. I have just been looking at these since this thread popped up.

I'm sure that the last time I looked they were nearer the £300 mark.

I can't believe what you get for <£200!

I am tempted by that MP Select Mini Printer as it comes pre-built and looks pretty much ready to go, but then I also quite fancy the challenge of building one of the kits; kinda like the task of building a Tamiya RC car....

Similar thoughts to tthew though - I am not sure what I would use it for. I can see it getting a months worth of enthusiastic use while I print Batman heads & cogs etc. but then what......hmmmm.

I'm currently playing around with a couple of Mini Fabikator V2s from Hobbyking. Bought for school, but I've got them at home over the summer so I can make sure they're up to scratch.
Can't really go wrong for £160 each!
100x100x100 print area, heated bed, will print in all plastic types, and it's got a tiny footprint, so truly a 'desktop' printer.
[url= https://hobbyking.com/en_us/mini-fabrikator-v2-3d-printer-uk-plug.html ]Mini Fabrikator V2[/url]

Printing so far seems pretty good. At least as good as the prints from a £1500 Up! printer.

I want a 3d printer.

Damn it what useful things can I print.

If anyone wants to see what the results are like, I will be posting pictures when it arrives.

If anyone wants something specific printing then if you send me the file I will probably print it and post it to you for cost (at least for the first couple of people).

Anyone got links to good libraries of existing designs?

Anyone got links to free design software to create my own designs?

Anyone got a link to any good English speaking Tevo Tarantula user groups I should join?

Sooo...anyone here with a 3d printer fancy printong something for me??!!!

I'm looking to make a mount (like a pump holder) to be able to strap a JBL flip speaker to my frame, so I can be uber annoying at charity/fun race events!!!

DrP

fusion360 is as good as anything.

DrP - You design it, send me the file and I will print it. you can pick it up at the BBB if you are there this year or I can post it.

PS You will only get it on the last day of the BBB as you are annoying enough already without that 🙂

I wanted it FOR the BBB!!!!!!!

Will see if I can wrangle up a design 🙂

DrP

https://www.thingiverse.com/ for lots of designs.

One of my favorite prints has been this Carabiner.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1819242

Great design, two pieces just snap together and the result is very strong. I wouldn't go abseiling with it though 🙂

For Raspberry Pi owners, this is a great case.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1810943

A quick look for the Monoprice Select Mini in the UK brings up the Malyan M200 and Prima Creator P120. All look identical, but worth checking. (also note that a v2 of the monoprice is out).

Anyway - it's £180.11 + £10.81 shipping from the Netherlands here:
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/malyan-metal-3d-printer-m200.html

Can't offer any advice on cheap printers, I have an Ultimaker 2+
extended for work and TBH it just works, after reading forums it does seem like the extra £2.5k is basically buying you much higher resolution and a bug free easy to use product. Important for work, but maybe less important if all you want to do is make adapters and mounts for bike stuff.

The flip side is cheap printers actually print pretty quickly because lower resolutions usually mean higher flow rates!

Anyone got links to free design software to create my own designs?

I use FreeCAD, because it feels like a free version of solidworks, but that means you need a quite specific way of thinking to do anything, you have to spend a few minutes thinking how best to describe the shape you want to make and that lets you draw it in the smallest number of steps. To put it another way, it's not sketchup, you can do much better models, but it takes longer to learn.

The other thing to remember is a single extruder head means no big hollow parts or overhangs. For that you need either a dual extruder head (second being PVA) or accept that the finished object will need a lot of sanding/finishing to remove any solid support you added to keep the part stable during printing. And on that note, you have to bear in mind how the printer will print it during the design phase, start with a big flat surface that will adhere to the buildplate, and try to keep any overhangs small/gradual and any thin areas as short as possible.

And PLA is much better than ABS for occasional use as ABS absorbs moisture from the air which messes with the printing, and it warps more. Better ABS printers are fully enclosed so the whole print is maintained at ~90C. PLA doesn't shrink anywhere near as much, I've built objects with 1.5mm thick flat walls ~100mm tall with no problems, ABS would warp doing that.

When designing for 3D printing, there are certain things you need to consider such as your printer limitations. Here are a few:

[url= http://makezine.com/2013/12/11/top-ten-tips-designing-models-for-3d-printing/ ]Top 10 3D Print Design Tips[/url]

Search for 3D objects on [url= http://www.yeggi.com/ ]yeggi.com[/url], they search loads of sites.

You'll need this print quality troubleshooting:
[url= https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/ ]https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/[/url]
[url= http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide ]http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide[/url]

I use 3M blue painters tape for sticking the first layer to the bed. A set of calipers will come in handy when configuring your printer, so when you tell it to print a 20mm cube, it doesn't print 18x19mm. Tweezers & a 1" & 2" scraper for getting prints off the bed.

I use vacuum bags for keeping filament in as the filament is hydroscopic, along with silica gels. Make sure you buy a high quality filament for your first few rolls. You don't want to be chasing your settings as the filament is inconsistent. ColorFabb is pretty good for me and not too expensive.

These seem like something I should want but I can't think of a single useful thing I would print that I couldn't already buy for a couple of quid. I need to work on my imagination.

WorldClassAccident - Member

Anyone got links to good libraries of existing designs?

Anyone got links to free design software to create my own designs?

thingiverse for pre-designed stuff.

Design software - fusion 360 or onshape

and for slicing the design up - Cura from the Ultimaker website.

km79 - Member

These seem like something I should want but I can't think of a single useful thing I would print that I couldn't already buy for a couple of quid. I need to work on my imagination.

I quite fancy one on the vague justification that the kids quite like 3D printed stuff and it is something they should probably learn about as they will only get more prolific in their lifetime.

The other option is to check what Make/Hack spaces are available locally as they will likely have 3D printers as well as lasercutters and/or CNC routers.

I quite fancy one on the vague justification that the kids quite like 3D printed stuff and it is something they should probably learn about as they will only get more prolific in their lifetime.

I can kinda see the logic, but people talk about them as if the inkjet printer killed off the printed novel. You don't log onto amazon and download the PDF of 50 shades of gray to print out at home.

And CAD design is a useful skill only if you're a CAD designer.

They're great if you want to make something (adapters, mounts, functional rather than pretty stuff). however actually printing stuff is a painfully slow process let alone the time spent designing the part. It's never going to replace the fact you can buy a new garmin (that works and has smooth edges, and doesn't crack, etc, etc) mount for £0.99 of ebay.

[i]It's never going to replace the fact you can buy a new garmin (that works and has smooth edges, and doesn't crack, etc, etc) mount for £0.99 of ebay.[/i]

I basically agree with you but don't tell MrsWCA. My man-maths argument went like this:

The coffee maker handle has melted where someone(not me!) left the hob on with the handle carefully placed above it. Either we buy a new coffee maker or 3D print one myself. (£30 https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=coffee+percolator&oq=coffee+perculator&aqs=chrome.1.69i57j0l5.5834j0j2&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8#safe=off&tbm=shop&q=hob+coffee+maker&spd=16671110192835810924)

I need 2 pairs of custom made badges for the car I designed. To get them made there for me involves minimum order qty etc but basically about £50-100 per pair or 3D print them myself. ( http://www.carbadgeuk.co.uk/custom-made-car-badges_bespoke).

The plastic bracket that my desk lamp slots into has cracked so I need a new desk lamp for about £150 or 3D print one myself. ( https://www.johnlewis.com/anglepoise-original-1227-extendable-wall-light/p2707691?colour=Black)

So that PROVES that buying the printer makes sense. It is cheaper than the lamp alone and I get to repair the coffee pot she burned and car badges for free.

Everyone's a winner*!

*No need to point out I could get cheaper lamps and coffee makers, Man-Match rules apply for these calculations

My advice, in that case, would be download FreeCAD and get to grips with the design side first then, that's probably 90% of the time and 99% of the effort involved in making something so if you can do that then the printing bit is fairly straightforward (and people can troubleshoot problems with it, it's harder to explain how to do CAD design over a forum).

And CAD design is a useful skill only if you're a CAD designer.

True perhaps, but the more general skill of thinking about a problem and designing a solution is a pretty good lifeskill.

I can get my head around most design ideas and think things through. I have a bit of previous form having designed a cabin with sauna and hydrotherapy pool, car, festivals and a few art creations. The cabin is probably closest to this as I used sketch up and properly designed it before building it.

I just want something better than sketch up if I am doing things like complex curves, gears and interconnecting bits. I have downloaded fusion360 and will also get free cad. I will try to design the coffee pot handle in both and see which I prefer.

Thanks

I hadn't reallyappreciated how strong the finished product could be.

I need some buckles for a rucksack...

That's justification enough right?

I hadn't reallyappreciated how strong the finished product could be.

I need some buckles for a rucksack...

That's justification enough right?

To give an idea of longevity, I printed in ABS some extra fixings for a Monkii cage.
Rather than screwing onto a bottle boss, the ones I designed/printed clip around the frame tube and have zip-tie slots.
They've been on the frame and in use in all weathers for about 3 years now. So, yes, pretty resilient!

So some some buckles and ladder locks.

And a comical pair of testicals for the saddle...

I just want something better than sketch up if I am doing things like complex curves, gears and interconnecting bits.

If you're just using the basic tools in Sketchup then there are limitations. However, there are a lot of 3rd party plugins that give great extra functionality.

For example, there are plugins from a guy called Libfredo6 that let you easily produce curved/rounded/chamfered edges on objects, create lofted junctions between different shapes, skin wire-framed models, and the ability to extrude/push into a curved surface.

[url= https://extensions.sketchup.com/en/content/libfredo6 ]Libfrdeo6 Plugins[/url]

3d printing is as usefull as you make it. I think things have moved on since i got/ made mine and misf come pre set up. You dont need a dual extruded if the slicer is good it should snap off and cleaned up with some sanding.

Choose your slicer and learn how to use it properly, i use slic3r because its free and lets me set up a custom size printer bed (my zero point is off the bed) unlike mesh mixer.

3d printing is as usefull as you make it.

I'm a product designer, so there are some things I'd like to prototype. I design a couple of Remote Controls a year and it would be really useful for that, but at the same time, the modelling is fantastically complex and normally I leave that to the factory, so my version would be crude - just to get the button positions or body feel correct.

But my main motivation would be to teach my sons to go through the design/CAD/CAM process, but even they must prefer the thought of a cnc router, or laser cutter!

This list gave me a couple of ideas.
https://all3dp.com/1/useful-cool-things-3d-print-ideas-3d-printer-projects-stuff/
I have a pegboard that I'd like to make some better hooks for.
The plywood chair joints sparked an idea too.

As for the plastic wrench/hammer/door bolt/bottle opener/etc - ugh.

I can imagine my boys wanting the coin sorter though.

But my main motivation would be to teach my sons to go through the design/CAD/CAM process, but even they must prefer the thought of a cnc router, or laser cutter!

Pretty much why/how we use them on school.
[i]Designing process > Use of CAD to develop and model > Use of CAM (CNC router and 3D printer)[/i]

I have had some GCSE and A-Level students use it for components in projects - handles, locks/catches, knobs, armatures, feet, etc.

It's also really good for making shapes/models to then sand cast from.

Go on then - humour me. How useful can I make it?

It is a great way to learn design/CAD as you get to see a finished product rather than a technical drawing at the end of the day. They are a great tool for helping you with projects but I wouldn't buy one without knowing what I want to use it for.

Although on the flip side I didn't need to print anything at the weekend, but something needed C size batteries. Half an hour later I had printed some AA t C battery adaptors, the shop did not have C size batteries!

It's also really good for making shapes/models to then sand cast from.

I've also been looking at rubber moulding. A bit more house-friendly.

Although again, uses for rubbery things are limited.

I guess I worry about the number of hours on the computer, vs running around outside and building treehouses, etc.

I'd probably not try Alu casting at home, but you could do pewter/white metal casting. A blow torch or even oven will melt it.

The 3D models do need a bit of sanding and prep to get them smooth enough to cast from. With ABS you can dip and brush them with acetone, which does a good job of smoothing the surfaces. A bit of sanding with 600/1200 wet and dry works too.

I'm using one all the time right now. I find it invaluable to convey the realness of an item to the client or end user. That's not to say I've got one, I simply don't have the time to set it up, calibrate it, get used to using it and get the best from it.

I use www.3dhubs.com to get stuff done locally.

Much more time efficient and cost effective than putting my own money into something of limited practical use which is going to take up loads of room in the house/garage.

Castings!? Carbon Fibre 😉

[url= http://www.mbr.co.uk/videos/bikes-and-equipment/meet-the-man-who-3d-prints-his-own-carbon-fibre-mountain-bikes ]http://www.mbr.co.uk/videos/bikes-and-equipment/meet-the-man-who-3d-prints-his-own-carbon-fibre-mountain-bikes[/url]

At the weekend, I mentioned treating myself to a £150 3-D printer, rather than £2k worth of CNC router which is what I'd really like to get...

I got told to put it on my Christmas list..... 😐

At the weekend, I mentioned treating myself to a £150 3-D printer, rather than £2k worth of CNC router which is what I'd really like to get...

AlexSimon - Member

Yep - me too.
However, now that I've seen MPCNC - maybe the two can be combined.
Looks like you can get a pretty good CNC router for around £350 once you've got the 3d printer.

Have not seen that website before! Gah!! That looks great! I'd be impressed if it cuts accurately - but pics on the gallery page seem to confirm it will do!

Flex of the long metal sections seem to be the weak point. Mainly because it's easy to make a very large one! Keeping the size small will help (450x450 cut area might be about right), but you can see all sorts of mods people have made to support the sides, etc. The trucks at the sides don't wrap under completely, so you can actually support the side rails from underneath.
[img] [/img]
(it doesn't have to be this complex - some people just add a plywood side and bolt up at various points)

I will probably be making one of these before the CNC machine so I can more quickly get 3D prints replicating existing parts

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1762299

Add 'Bigger garage' to wish list

Add 'Bigger garage' to wish list

Every time I go round to one of my mates.....I look at his cluttered double garage with a distinct case of envy!

It's just a jumbled mess. If it was mine, it would be split into bike stuff/storage on one side & 'tinkering workshop' on the other.....

I should really replace my 'normal' garden shed with a workshop - although at the moment I don't really have anything to put in it!!

Go on then - humour me. How useful can I make it?

I've done a full suss 29er if thats usefull? Am working on version 2.

[url= http://singletrackmag.com/forum/topic/diy-carbon-full-suss-attempt ]link[/url]

I should really replace my 'normal' garden shed with a workshop - although at the moment I don't really have anything to put in it!!

bigdean - Member

Go on then - humour me. How useful can I make it?

I've done a full suss 29er if thats usefull? Am working on version 2.

link

AlexSimon - Member

That's the perfect situation! Unfortunately I had the contents of my old shed + a lod of extra stuff to fill mine with. Still a useful amount of workshop space though!

What I mean by 'nothing to put in it', is no CNC router, no 3-D printer, no band saw, no planer/thicknesser, no lathe etc.....all the toys I'd want in there.

There's tons of junk to fill it with though! 😆

At our previous house, we had a shed, perhaps 6x8 or 8x8. It was full, but there was plenty of room; I could even do a bit of bike tinkering in there if needed.

Now, I've got a shed; smaller than the last one, but still a decent size [b]& a single garage[/b].
Both are full to the rafters & there is no room to swing even the smallest cat! I don't know how this has happened.
Some of it might be due to going from one bike to 4, but even so.... 😀

What I mean by 'nothing to put in it', is no CNC router, no 3-D printer, no band saw, no planer/thicknesser, no lathe etc.....all the toys I'd want in there.

Blimey - I didn't realise the Anet A8 was [i]that[/i] cheap!
£120 delivered!
http://www.gearbest.com/3d-printers-3d-printer-kits/pp_337314.html

I already have a double garage with no room for the cars. An art studio in one corner, gardening and bike bits in another with tools and bench in the third and some space to work in the fourth.

Perhaps I can print a fifth corner to the square?
Extend upwards?
Dig down?
Build more

Dig down?

After spending most of the evening looking at 3D printers, I think this is the one I would currently buy.

£311
http://www.gearbest.com/3d-printers-3d-printer-kits/pp_441282.html

Probably better than the Tevo Tarantula but also almost exactly double the price.

Enough to put it over the 'under the radar' purchase for me unfortunately. Also looking forward to actually building it. Pictures/videos may follow

Yeah, that printer does look pretty nice.
But not sure I'd use 300x300x400 bed.
Need to factor in the cost of filament to run the thing...printing vases and massive iris boxes is soon gonna start getting pricey in terms of materials...

Does look bloody ace though!

Probably better than the Tevo Tarantula but also almost exactly double the price.

300x300x400mm 😯
That will take a very long time to print big things, as the print speed isn't lightning speed! It would be fine for printing stuff like vases, not so great at printing big complex objects.

I just sliced a Lego Batman Head, scaled to max for the Creality CR10 and it says it would take 8 days continual printing to finish at 0.2mm layer height, set of draft setting, this generally doesn't take certain things into consideration such as retraction, print head acceleration and deceleration, so I would add 10% at least.

It also says it will use 1.2km of filament! I realise no one would want to print this at this size, but it gives you an idea of time for a full build plate sized print. 😆

I don't want the machine to be the hobby, I want the creative aspect to be the hobby.

Then don't buy a cheap 3D printer. Something like a new Ultimaker would be better as they hold their settings.

Ultimaker is hardly the extreme end, it works well, but is certainly not top end, middle of the road maybe. It seems top end when you are looking at the cheapest printers out there.

I would say you get what you pay for, but with 3D printers that is not the case.

I am planning on using the build process to teach my self how the printer works. As I found with my car: if you build it then you can repair it. From what I see, even with the better printers, a lot of the early prints people do are for modifications.

I will use the printing of modification parts to learn how to control the print quality and print process, both software and steps required.

I will then start designing my own bits to teach myself CAD and the other required software. I have used Sketchup as I mentioned earlier so hopefully it will be expanding knowledge rather than starting from scratch.

Those are the steps I see before you can start doing 'creative' stuff. In reality, the creative stuff is done in your head and then there is a whole stack of processes to get it from your head into reality. Same if you do it in wood, welding, carving or casting.

I see the 3D printer and just another tool in the armory, a means to an end and not an end in itself. I expect to be combining printed stuff with wood, welding, carving or casting stuff to express my creativity.

Plus it should be fun and is only £150 if it ends up gathering dust after I have used the 2 free rolls of filament that come with it.

I'd probably not try Alu casting at home, but you could do pewter/white metal casting. A blow torch or even oven will melt it.

Alu is just as easy: loaf of bread, sand from the beach, styrofoam, and a blowtorch. Job done 😀

Also looking forward to actually building it. Pictures/videos may follow

Please do. Interested to see how it turns out.

WCA - The printer you have bought is perfect for that and your reasons are why I bought one. If you wanted to just print things then I would say 3D printing isn't at that stage yet.

The best advice I had when learning CAD was: There is no right or wrong way to draw, but there might be an easier or quicker way.

[i] If you wanted to just print things then I would say 3D printing isn't at that stage yet.[/i]

Just use one of the many online printing houses to do it for you. Cheaper, easier and better than home printing.

[i]There is no right or wrong way to draw, but there might be an easier or quicker way. [/i]
Yep. That's why I want to look at other peoples models before I start making my own.

One of the things I want to try is a round headlight surround for the Barchetta. This is a ring shape with a curved profile but the outside edge of the ring cureves lower than the inside edge. There are various clip holders and screw holes etc to include. I am expecting that to be a steep learning curve.

I expect there to be several iterations until I create one that fits properly.

Once designed I then need to print it and use the printed model for displacement forging in a metal of my choice, probably aluminium but not sure yet...

...or I could buy one for about £10.

It is all about the fun, not necessarily the result.

It has arrived!!!!!!!!!

[url= https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4321/36089758655_af22636770_c.jp g" target="_blank">https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4321/36089758655_af22636770_c.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/WZ8rUc ]20170722_185351[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/89686376@N04/ ]WCA![/url], on Flickr

In a box!
[url= https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4330/36049575506_a2d7b6238a_c.jp g" target="_blank">https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4330/36049575506_a2d7b6238a_c.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/WVzuRh ]20170722_185556[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/89686376@N04/ ]WCA![/url], on Flickr

With a box inside!
[url= https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4302/35956674911_04a8ffef52_c.jp g" target="_blank">https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4302/35956674911_04a8ffef52_c.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/WMnmJT ]20170722_185814[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/89686376@N04/ ]WCA![/url], on Flickr

And the inside most box has been opened before it got here, will everything be there?
[url= https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4312/36049653476_a2b7693747_c.jp g" target="_blank">https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4312/36049653476_a2b7693747_c.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/WVzU2A ]20170722_185854[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/89686376@N04/ ]WCA![/url], on Flickr

Manual is
[url= https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4291/35250120204_3823a7acd3_c.jp g" target="_blank">https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4291/35250120204_3823a7acd3_c.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/VGW5Db ]20170722_185919[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/89686376@N04/ ]WCA![/url], on Flickr

First layer of stuff looks undisturbed
[url= https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4305/36089849965_e08c9f4e73_c.jp g" target="_blank">https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4305/36089849965_e08c9f4e73_c.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/WZ8V3v ]20170722_185925[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/89686376@N04/ ]WCA![/url], on Flickr

And that is where we stop for today. As you may have spotted in the first picture there were a couple of glasses of Pinot in the hot tub before it arrived so I don't fancy starting work on it now.

I will post up pictures and maybe even videos as I build but these will be basically a direct copy of this guy who's videos i will be using alongside the official build manual.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UA0L-CeIsfU

Okay, I opened the envelope with the manual in it, what harm can that do?

I am glad that they are pleasured and once built I will check I have satisfied their machine. Sounds a bit kinky or is that just the after effects of the [s]sex pond[/s] hot tub?
[url= https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4308/35699830140_fa6375b0c8_c.jp g" target="_blank">https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4308/35699830140_fa6375b0c8_c.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/WoEXJL ]20170722_191112[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/89686376@N04/ ]WCA![/url], on Flickr

The important stuff appears to use mostly English sentences though
[url= https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4318/35956918081_d00c3ac461_c.jp g" target="_blank">https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4318/35956918081_d00c3ac461_c.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/WMoB2t ]20170722_191209[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/89686376@N04/ ]WCA![/url], on Flickr

Nice. Looking forward to seeing some build details & how well it goes together!!

Yep, keep the updates coming WCA. I look forward to some 3D printed hot tub accessories.

Can you fit magnets...

Does the manual still end halfway through? 😆 Check our ArcadEd's youtube series, it's ever so slightly out of date because Tevo have done some rolling revisions (including some things he suggests) but it's still really useful. It's really worth spending time over alignment and solidity, a lot of the complaints you see are from people who're really comfortable with the software and design side but can't work an allen key and don't understand why their squint wobbly printer makes squint wobbly parts.

Mounting it to a base board helps a lot btw. And then, print a replacement Y axis bracket as the top one is a bit flexy, and [i]will[/i] snap sooner or later. And some corner reinforcements. Then a hotend fan- makes a tremendous difference, this, especially if printing small parts (they'll tend to slump if just naturally cooled)

(I don't want to get too ahead of myself but I'm just finishing a dual-Z conversion which I've got high hopes for, the only real hardware issue I've had is that the Z axis is just naturally a little unstable as it's only driven at one end, it's too reliant on perfect guide wheel setup. Should have it printing again in a day or two)

Also, order some of these:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/Glue-Sticks-Pens/Elmers-Disappearing-Purple-School-E1560/B00143UIC2

And if you don't already have some aerosol freeze spray, that's really useful too- if you spray it on a part while the bed's still hot it'll often pop right off. Most people complain of bad adhesion but with the tevo bed and a little elmer's it's the other way round, sometimes they're hard to shift.

Northwind - you may become my new best friend during this build and foer the first few prints. I am of to a car breakfast meet for the next few hours but then plan to start the build. No idea how far the manual gets but there are just 15 steps in it.

I can handle a spanner so am reasonably hopeful that the printer will hold together long enough to print the reinforcement brackets and cooling fan.

Are those glue sticks just like normal glue sticks? I would have thought the glue would stick up too much or does the base layer of the print 'absorb' the bumps?

I was planning on placing a piece of glass, actually an spare mirror tile, on top of the bed and printing on that. I have seen a couple of videos where they do that and then use hair spray. Any views on this?

Loads more questions later today I am sure.

Thanks

Okay, I started the build while drinking my coffee and have completed the first step successfully!

1) Get bits outof box
[url= https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4295/35702409230_205435dbfe_c.jp g" target="_blank">https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4295/35702409230_205435dbfe_c.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/WoUbpQ ]20170722_213519[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/89686376@N04/ ]WCA![/url], on Flickr

2) Put the bits shown in the manual, on the manual
[url= https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4318/35923367632_3b0e430a8a_c.jp g" target="_blank">https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4318/35923367632_3b0e430a8a_c.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/WJqDDs ]20170722_214247[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/89686376@N04/ ]WCA![/url], on Flickr

3) Carefully fit the first bracket ensuring it is flush with the end of the metal*
[url= https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4298/35283319583_85c413c2cb_c.jp g" target="_blank">https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4298/35283319583_85c413c2cb_c.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/VKSeEg ]20170722_214904[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/89686376@N04/ ]WCA![/url], on Flickr

*4) Realise it shouldn't be flush as it needs to connect to the other piece of metal
[url= https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4314/35702732570_220c2e0893_c.jp g" target="_blank">https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4314/35702732570_220c2e0893_c.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/WoVQwE ]20170722_215551[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/89686376@N04/ ]WCA![/url], on Flickr

5) Repeat for the other brackets and step 1 is completed in less than 10 minutes. Turn the page for step 2 and decide to go to car show instead...
[url= https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4297/35931648512_f68ca38e36_c.jp g" target="_blank">https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4297/35931648512_f68ca38e36_c.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/WKa6gf ]20170723_072750[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/89686376@N04/ ]WCA![/url], on Flickr

WorldClassAccident - Member

Are those glue sticks just like normal glue sticks? I would have thought the glue would stick up too much or does the base layer of the print 'absorb' the bumps?

Yeah, they're basically just pritt stick but they go on a little smoother. Occasionally it leaves a wee bit of discolouration in the first layer of the print but it doesn't affect the shape.

I've heard good things about printing on borosilicate glass, haven't really investigated it much though but it's on the list of things to play with. Hairspray just does the same thing as the glue sticks but seems a little more temperamental, I've more or less found something that works and stuck with it

I'm thinking about investing in one of [url= https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1403065126/obsidian-3d-printer-high-quality-sleek-and-afforda?ref=discovery ]these[/url]. Anyone know anything about them?

After a somewhat interrupted day I managed to get some building done.

Not finished by any means but quite interesting with a couple bits of frustration.

I HATE the paper they stick to the acrylic to protect it. Use a craft knife to help remove it.

I HATE dropping the bolts and nuts but most of all the acrylic as that snaps easy.

I HATE forgetting to strap up the cross bar after fitting the z axis screw as when that breaks you have to superglue it and pray it holds. I am currently praying.

8 minutes of photos with captions describing the build so far(including my mistakes)

Probably a good time to buy a load of t-nuts, they're one of those things that costs the same for 5 in the UK or 50 from china for the exact same part. M4 and M5 just because there's no standards for hole sizes...

The paper on the acrylic is a total pain in the cock. But stop breaking it! I've never broken one yet... I do have some spare bits though from things I've upgraded so post up a pic of any broken ones and I'll see what I have. Ah actually I have some superceded printed reinforcements too that might help you out, pm me your details if you want them