Sorry second post on bearings...
Using one of the pro bearing tools extractors that's like one of those expanding wall anchors for drifting out FS bearings.
Put in according to instructions
Bike supported on wooden blocks
Sharp taps then the extractor lands on the floor
Reinstall, with a bit more pressure on the spanners
Repeat
Now I have one tool that's misshapen and won't fit in the bearings and only one bearing that's a quarter of the way out.
Before I order a replacement tool on the assumption it's me not the tool.
1) what I have done wrong? Should I tap or whack for example? Just how much tapping / hammering should I expect to get one of these bearings out?
2) is there a tougher/grippier tool?
Are you pressing it in a forward direction or pulling it out with a slide hammer? Make sure the extractor tool is square and if possible fully seated against the inner race. If grip is a problem ie the tool is slipping out, try wrapping some wet and dry or emery paper around the inner race bore, so that the grit is facing the wall of the bore (the grit would be biting into tbe steel of the bearing, not the tool).
Once grip has been achieved, then a decent amount of penetrating oil to the outer race/ frame and leave for a bit.
This sometimes works, and has definitely got me out of the shit once when i had to extract a glassy smooth 5 ton bit of oil pipeline with no lifting eye provision when it fell out of a lathe chuck.
Also, what sort of diameter is the bearing? I have used pullers which are like little mini versions of real bearing pullers which fit into the lip of tbe outer race, but youd need some sort of strongpoint ie a shaft bracing against the frame, seat the pullers against.
This is the tool in use by the people I bought it from on YouTube. Couldn't find this earlier in my frustration.
It looks to me like I've probably knackered the tool with a very tight / seized bearing.
There's nowhere to get a car style puller on this. I will try and pick up some penetrating oil too.
I used a couple of those tools just this week on my Occam. You definitely need to do up the expander much tighter than you think you'd have to. I also applied a little light lube to the "wedge" part so that it slips into the expander part more easily. Go easy on the lube though, you don't want any touching the inner bearing race.
You definitely need to do up the expander much tighter than you think you’d have to.
I gave mine plenty of tension after the first slippage but it's now distorted and won't go back in the bearing. May just have to order another one (perhaps 2) and come back to it next week. In the meantime I will do battle with getting the rest of the swingarm apart.
I'm sure I'm at fault here for not tackling this sooner as I don't ride as much as I'd like so the years have ticked by!
I didn't find those to work that well, had more luck with a slide hammer.
I haven’t tried those tools although I’ve heard of mixed results with them.
I’ve got one of the below sets which seems alright for the money. Recently changed main pivot bearings and Horst link (back to back) bearings on my sentinel with it. Also done the same bearings plus a few others on a Bird Aether 7.
It’s surprising how hard you have to pound at the slide hammer bit to get bearings free sometimes - yet other times they come out nicely.
Had one of the slide hammer kits for years and it's never failed on removing bearings from our Specializeds
Have tried those tools and the do work but really have to give them a good whack.
Had better luck with this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B083FV78V1/ref=pe_27063361_487055811_TE_3p_dp_1
I've also failed to use one of these expansion type removal tools. Ended up taking it to the bike shop with my tail between my legs!
Those internal bearing pullers will be made from cheese compared to industrial versions so I'd expect them to chew up fairly quickly.
What's the frame made from? If it's aluminium then get the part containing the bearing in a pan of boiling water or wrap an old towel round the part and soak that in boiling water. Basically try and get as much heat into the aluminium that houses the bearing as possible without resorting to a naked flame. The expansion ratios of steel (bearing) and aluminium are different.
Thanks all.
Amazon slide hammer set on the way.
The smaller bearings in the rocker and yoke are all done now using the smaller of the two extractors.
Now the main pivot and chainstay pivots to revisit with some boiling water once the slide hammer kit shows up.
Those internal bearing pullers will be made from cheese compared to industrial versions so I’d expect them to chew up fairly quickly.
Didn't want to say it as I always do and seem to be the only one with bad history but yeah, the Mechanik branded set I have is utter shite. Not so much soft like cheese as brittle like a candy cane. Either it's so loose it slips or so tight it shatters. Broke two of the extractors and don't have high hopes for the rest, even the hammer has a habit of disassembling itself.
Had to take Blind bearings out of an eBike with one of those tools and worked ok but had to do it up tight
Ended up with one bearing out and seized on to the tool
Was in a chat on FB and the guys from the company said to PM then and they would send out a replacement tool
Those tools didn't work very well for me using the "hit them with a hammer" technique. Bodged together a puller using sockets and washers and they worked great.
Wheels Manufacturing, quality tools to make the best of bad designs from frame manufacturers. Available as kits or individually from Madison.
Those type of bearing pullers seem to be a once or twice use only. I had the same problem. Bought an RRP set plus a Wheels MFG tool for the little twin sided Horst link bearings (about £12). All good these days, admittedly the RRP set is spendy, but so nice to use.
I'm not convinced by the design of those tools. The segments that the cone is supposed to spread are short and quite thick, so not very flexible. A lot of the force that could be applied to create friction on the bearing is being used stressing the tool. Using a hammer to shift the bearing is creating a shock load between tool and bearing which isn't helpful. I would try to pull the tool, using a nut on the thread and an oversized socket, if the tool isn't too bulky to fit the socket over it that will bear on the housing.
That type of tool didn't work well for me, couldn't get some bearings out at all, and one broke.
Replaced with a slide and hammer blind puller which has been much better and can do a much wider variety of bearing sizes.
As said way earlier. You need to tighten those tools way more than you’d expect and almost to the point you’d think it was too tight.
I had same experience as you until i got a longer spanner with more leverage.
The other option is wrong size. If theres any or much of a gap between the tool and the bearing its too small
It seems even a slide hammer tool isn't budging the pivot bearings after a liberal soaking in penetrant spray. Time to call it quits and hand over to the lbs (if I can find one!).
I should have said earlier - the extraction tools I used were from this lot
https://www.bearingprotools.com/
And they worked fine.
Heat gun and better tools.