Yellowstone, glacier and Montana advice

We stayed at Yellowstone for a week and didn't see anywhere near as much of it as we thought we would. Stay at Canyon Campground, it's in the middle and we had a wolf pack about 15mins away in the Hayden Valley (I think it has since been extirpated by a neighbouring pack).

Because you're central everywhere is easy to get to. We found doing the main road loop in a day was doable, just, but temper your stops. Old Faithful is good to go and see, but some of the smaller geysers are just as impressive.

The bison are immovable if they want to be, but tend to move if you keep inching towards them. The bears are quite flighty, but you should get decent views of them. There are still pikas on Mt Washburn, which if you climb to the summit you get to appreciate the size of the caldera.

Also.down the Hayden Valley is Sour Creek Dome. It's steadily growing by a few inches a year, so is signifying a build up of pressure. It's fairly noticeable across the Yellowstone River.

Mammoth Springs is magnificent as are all the geyser basins really. I would suggest heading to Grand Prismatic Spring, just to experience it.

Main thing about Yellowstone is that it is a full sensory immersive place. Not one is missed out and it can take you a couple of days to acclimatise to the altitude and hydrogen sulphide!

I'd go back tomorrow if I could, I've got unfinished business there. We did a cowboy trek and campsite cook out as one trip (horseback and saw a few black bears and cubs) also did a guided wildlife tour and saw wolves and pups, brown and black bears and cubs, marmots, bison, pronghorn, elk, wapiti and a whole heap of other stuff. Well worth the money.

We started off on a trek by ourselves one day, heard a coyote howl and thought no, not for us. It was one thing doing a 16mile trek in the Black Hill Forest, but I wasn't confident wandering with bears, wolves, coyotes, cougars, bison, moose, elk etc all out there somewhere.

We had 6 nights in the area, to and from Salt Lake City. Deserved more and we will go back. Probably my favourite US destination. Loved Grand Teton, saw as much wildlife there and 'better' sightings, black bear on a walk. Whereas our grizzly sighting in Yellowstone was with another ~100 cars. We did everything ourselves just because 'tours' are so expensive, as is lodging. We camped, August 1st in Canyon had snow and woke up at 26F (-3°C). Walk away from the main sites and you'll be on your own. Awesome wild feeling. When we go back we'll plan a multi day hike but you need to be on the ball to book permits. Do book lodge/campsites asap as their 30 day cancellation means everything gets booked up ahead.

Yellowstone is possibly my favourite place in the world, that I've visited (several times now). It's just amazing. The scenery, the geysers etc, and the wildlife all together add up to a completely mind-blowing place. I've never been in August and expect it will be horribly busy, you may struggle to find any accommodation so get looking and booking ASAP. We've always gone at one end of the season. 2-3 nights at any of the major centres would be a good start. OF lodge itself is an incredible building. Just look up what to see in guides etc, it's all good and your taste may vary. Note food in the park is expensive, but that's just part of the price you pay to be there.

PS Also been to Glacier and quite a lot of the other main parks etc. They are all pleasant enough but Yellowstone knocks spots off all the others. Focus on that first and then fit other stuff around it.

Thanks all.

I agree, August wouldn't have been my first choice, but it's all we have available.

Try not to get eaten by a wild animal.

Can’t comment on the national parks but if you want any tips on Seattle I had a great week there last year. Some great seafood places to eat as you’d expect (Taylor’s, Walrus and Carpenter spring to mind). Fremont beer garden for outdoor drinking. Happy to give other recommendations.

Try not to get eaten by a wild animal.

See, I know this was probably taking the piss but I've got a massively different attitude to wild life.
I've been hiking and biking in the US and Canada multiple times, many times deep in the back country and often solo.

If you stop to look at the stats, the chances of being eaten by a wild animal are virtually nil*. So don't be a city-slicker afraid of your own shadow 😄 Get out and explore - there's so much more to see away from the safety of your car!

I'd obviously be more cautious in grizzly country than black bear country, and will often take bear spray with me but black bears usually actively avoid humans anyway.

My most dangerous encounter with wildlife was actually in Grand Teton NP when hiking up a somewhat overgrown trail early one morning when a moose came galloping down the trail towards us. The moose was somewhat surprised to see me and the Mrs so early in the morning and jumped off the trail into a nearby stream. He stood about 3m from me and we looked at each other quizzically but he seemed happy we weren't gonna cause him harm so we carried on our hike...

* I'm excluding deer flies, mosquitoes, rattlesnakes,scorpions and various poisonous spiders from this...they probably won't kill you but just make your day very unpleasant 😉

I've been to Glacier NP twice, and both times it was badly affected by wildfires. First time smoke was so bad you couldn't see any views though park was still open. Second time, I was hoping to ride Going to the Sun road but south side of park was shut due to fires.(I ended up circling around to the north side and riding up the N side which isn't anywhere near as dramatic as the S side)

Sorry, not very helpful! Would recommend popping over the border to Watertown national park in Canada as a fall back option. Similar scenery and a lot less busy.

Anyway, keep a watch for news/closures due to fires...they seem somewhat more common these days...

We went to Yellowstone as a backup to a planned trip to Fruita/Moab when it turned out MrsT was pregnant.

I was worried I would be bored after a week. How wrong was I? I would love to stay for a whole year. That would be magic.

Surely the Duttons are the most dangerous thing in Montana?

Happy to give other recommendations.

@tuboflard That would be great, either on here or drop me a pm if you'd prefer.

(You know, every time I've seen  your username before, I read it as "turbolard")

Yep that catches a few people out!

I’d avoid stopping bang in the middle of downtown, there was a surprising amount of homeless who were frankly off their nuts near our hotel (Theodore) which was otherwise nice. We also stopped a night at the Palihotel which was better located for the Market and waterfront.

Starbucks roastery (not the Pike Place one which was perpetually log jammed) was worth a visit though for a cocktail or two. Terra Plata was very good for food. And if it’s your thing, the Tasting Room wine bar down near Pikes Place was good.

Also took in KEXP which was a nice spot for a coffee though no live music when we were there.

Space Needle was ok, good views but wouldn’t rush back. Obviously only go when it’s bluebird else you’ll not see a thing as the views towards Mt Ranier are good.

McMenamins in Centralia was also a nice lunch stop if it works for you on the way in or out of Seattle, a proper old fashioned diner, hotel and pool hall.

Would have liked to have visited Mt St Helens too but ran out of time.

That’s a long way to cover in not that many days. I did a loop with the kids last summer Salt Lake City-Stanley-Boise-SLC with a bunch of stops along the way. Wouldn’t have wanted to do more really, we wouldn’t have been able to see places, just wave at them on the way through!

Your biggest thing might be getting access to the National Parks. We were originally going to go to Glacier but scrapped it because all the timed entry passes have gone. We could have driven in before 6am but didn’t really feel like that was a gamble we wanted to take/bit of an effort on a holiday. Same thing kept us out of all the National Parks - the tickets sell out basically as soon as they’re released.

We were camping the whole time, which also eats into the day so maybe you’d be happier covering more miles if it’s all hotels.

Highlights of our trip were Red Fish Lake in Idaho, and Craters of the Moon National Monument. The kids want to go back to Red Fish!

I’d recommend checking out the State Parks and National Monuments- still awe inspiring in many cases, but not quite so in demand as the National Parks.

Oh, and bear spray costs £50! An expensive but necessary outlay if you’re going to do any riding, walking or camping.

Have many camping tips if that’s the route you’re going down. Message me if you want endless details on road tripping on a shoestring 🙂

We were originally going to go to Glacier but scrapped it because all the timed entry passes have gone

Is the timed entry a COVID thing as I've never had to "book in advance" for any national park (except campsites, of course)?

On a similar subject, keep an eye on the US political news, particularly this year with the Republicans playing silly buggers with the budget...a couple of years ago, I happended to be in Moab when the Federal budget "ran out".
Great, I thought, no one to collect the park entrance fees...wrong,they closed the gates and kicked everyone out of the parks 🤬
(State and local parks where ok but all National Parks where shut)

I think it started with covid and has been (mostly/totally?) abandoned by now. But certainly worth a check.

Is the timed entry a COVID thing as I’ve never had to “book in advance” for any national park

can't comment on yellowstone, but it was in place at Yosemite last summer and wasn't a covid thing - they are actively trying to control and reduce visitor numbers to reduce the impact on the fauna and flora. chatting to one of the rangers he was saying that the majority of the national parks have 5-10 year plans in place to achieve this. in Yosemite it included things such as materially reducing the amount of accommodation available in the valley. you could still drive into the park before or after the ranger stations at the 'gates' were manned though - before 8am and after 6pm iirc

thanks for your help. plenty to think about there.