Workshop walls help...
 

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[Closed] Workshop walls help.

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I am getting a new workshop built on the back of the house that will be a both a bike workshop and a laundry area with the washing machine and dryer, etc

It is timber framed and will be cedar clad, but the time has come to choose an internal wall covering. Plasterboard is out as it is fragile and not really strong enough for holding up all the stuff that is going to be hung on the walls. I need something that is tough and long lasting but also looks good. I want the finished room to have a decent finish and not some rough workshop feel.

Any thoughts on what could be used? Currently pondering tongue and groove, plywood and OSB. However tongue and groove is coming out around £500 for all the walls and I am concerned ply or OSB will look to rough, especially at the joins.


 
Posted : 08/03/2017 11:53 am
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I've used OSB. Lovely and tough and very easy to screw things to. Mine is not pretty so I've used ex building site hoardings which came ready painted in battleship grey and only £5 a sheet. I think, it looks pretty good with a wood stain on it and if fitted well the joins will be quite neat. Might be a bit too much of an industrial look for some, though.


 
Posted : 08/03/2017 11:57 am
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I've just done a wall in my garage in OSB. The uncut sides are well jointed, the others I caulked. All painted with white masonry paint. It looks like a garage/workshop rather than a laundry room. Ply would be a better finish, but you still have the joints. T&G will obviously give more of a room (sauna) feel.


 
Posted : 08/03/2017 12:00 pm
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Clad the wall in ply or OSB and then plasterboard over the top.

It will look finished but you can screw through the plasterboard into the ply without worrying about the ability to take a fixing.


 
Posted : 08/03/2017 12:02 pm
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I would go with ply if you can afford it, it looks nice straight away and perfect for screwing into.

If you want it to look like a normal room then you have to go with a plasterboard finish somehow, with paint on top, but thats going to get damaged soon and look scruffy.


 
Posted : 08/03/2017 12:30 pm
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Checker plate everywhere.

Manly


 
Posted : 08/03/2017 12:44 pm
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old floorboards ?

[img] [/img]


 
Posted : 08/03/2017 1:22 pm
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^^ nice try.. "old floorboards" *turns image clockwise* Better luck next time..


 
Posted : 08/03/2017 1:28 pm
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Just seen something called slat wall that they use in shops. This comes out just over £10msq so looks good (lots of colours and finishes) and is practical.

[img] [/img]
[img] [/img]


 
Posted : 08/03/2017 3:17 pm
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I am getting a new workshop built on the back of the house that will be a both a bike workshop and a laundry area with the washing machine and dryer, etc

I can't help with your query, but I'd be prioritising efficient ventilation unless you like rusty bikes.


 
Posted : 08/03/2017 3:47 pm
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I can't help with your query, but I'd be prioritising efficient ventilation unless you like rusty bikes

Worth considering seriously sure in any case but is this a realistic problem really? Unless he is silly enough to have a non condensing tumble dryer on 24hrs a day venting into the space his bikes sit.. it sounds like a VERY low risk to me. He's not building a sauna come workshop. Presuming the bikes are well maintained, id think normal use out doors is a bigger risk to rust than his pants and socks whizzing round in a dryer few times a week/month/year.


 
Posted : 08/03/2017 4:19 pm
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We have a Condensor drier in the Workshop, which condenses to a tray which you then empty. Has no noticable effect on humidity in the room.


 
Posted : 08/03/2017 4:35 pm
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Thanks for all the advice people. I don't think damp will be an issue was the condenser dryer drains straight out. Bikes haven't rusted in the shed and that is bloody damp for some reason. Water dripping off the ceiling!!


 
Posted : 08/03/2017 9:38 pm
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FYI with regards to slat wall, there is a board, then an insert into each groove (Can be plastic or metal, metal is stronger and better, but more expensive).

They mean any wall fittings actually fit and don't break out of the wood.

So check whether that cost includes all the inserts.

Like this:
[img] [/img]

Edit:
This only matters though if you plan to use slatwall hooks/hanging kits though.
If you're just going to screw everything to it then not really an issue.


 
Posted : 08/03/2017 11:28 pm
 nach
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nickhit3 - Member
Worth considering seriously sure in any case but is this a realistic problem really?

Yep. Over time, any untreated humidity will see things rusting and paint bubbling.

footflaps - Member
We have a Condensor drier in the Workshop, which condenses to a tray which you then empty. Has no noticable effect on humidity in the room.

If you're having to empty it, it's reducing the humidity :P. Your environment might just be adding it back as fast or faster though.

Humans tend to be most comfortable around 60% humidity. If it goes to around 40% or below and you wear contact lenses, you might notice them get uncomfortable as they start giving up moisture to the air faster.


 
Posted : 09/03/2017 8:30 am
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Yep. Over time, any untreated humidity will see things rusting and paint bubbling.

Orange is a very on trend colour this season FWIW..

Kidding aside, it is just that here was an assumption that he might want to "prioritise" ventilation above ALL else. Although a worthy consideration, it seems a little over the top this should be an absolute priority provided that his appliances are correctly operating and he's not drying fishing nets in there...


 
Posted : 09/03/2017 9:06 am
 nach
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It depends on where you live. In this wet Yorkshire valley I'm in, it can quickly become a priority 😀


 
Posted : 09/03/2017 9:32 am
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I'm not saying ventilation isn't important in any space that bikes may be.. but that this is going to be a space used also for laundry purposes, I wasn't convinced the introduction of a tumble dryer [u]provided its operating correctly[/u] would be such a huge contributor. I suppose it must be to a certain degree but enough to be the up most priority? hmm..


 
Posted : 09/03/2017 9:48 am
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I'd use ply or osb but I'd chamfer the edges to make the join obvious. You could even cut ply into planks rather than have whole boards.
I used to work on exhibition stands where boards were cnc'd before they were laminated as the manufacturing process wasn't accurate enough for the stand builders, even so when you got out on site and built in the real world where floors were never completely flat or even it was still really had to hide the joins where panels butted against each other. Even small discrepancies look horrible but other builders used a chamfered edge to their panels and I felt they always looked far better.


 
Posted : 09/03/2017 10:17 am
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Plasterboard is out as it is fragile and not really strong enough for holding up all the stuff that is going to be hung on the walls.

Plasterboard would give you the quickest, easiest, cheapest nice finish. And is also a surface that you can repair and refinish nicely if you move things around.

Screw cheap chipboard to the timber frame then plasterboard over the top of it. The chipboard will mean you can put a screw in anywhere and get a strong fixing. The plasterboard is the easiest surface repair and repaint and make the room an extension of the house rather than a lean-to outbuilding.


 
Posted : 09/03/2017 11:30 am

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