[Closed] woodburning stove opinions

At that output, how about a Euroheat Harmony 13?

Or a Stovax Brunel 2CB?

how about a Banjax Uberscrobbler GTi?

(sorry, just wanted to join in 😉 )

I have the harmony 13 and find it to be all I need ..... The problem is with wood burners we can all get rather sad and obsessive ....(even alfabus).

Just get a good one .... and enjoy it.

D

[sucks teeth mode]

The Banjax, you say? Not sure about them, hard to keep going all night, I mean just look at the size of the woodbox. And the flue design is all wrong, and anyway, it's cast steel, not iron. Now my BeardSmokey 9, that's what you want, and it's even got a special box for storing kippers.

[/sucks teeth mode]

The stove is irrelevant it's the wood store and quality of your logs that count .

No one on here appears to have got a stove they hate all advice even mine boils down to "get the one i've got i like mine."

crankboy - Member
The stove is irrelevant it's the wood store and quality of your logs that count .

If anyone is on Tyneside, I can recommend a good tree surgeon to buy wood from!

Amazing how many people are jumping on this "must have one" bandwagon without giving a thought about where and how they are going to source logs and at what cost!!!!!

Agreed - if I didn't have a free source of logs I wouldn't bother. We burn the stove from late Sept til late March and go through 15-20 m^3 of wood. Our gas bill for a 3-bed-semi is under £15 a month, but the flip side is that if I had to buy those logs commercially the bill woudl be at least £1500, so completely uneconomic.

The other big plus, to me, is that the whole process of felling the trees at the turn of the year, splitting/storing the logs in the spring and collecting last years wood at the end of the summer (plus actually burning it over the winter!) adds a really nice rhythm to year.

I have a Morso Badger and it's a cracking stove, very efficient and provides loads of warmth.

Crankboy speaks good - get one that you like the look of.

Can I jump in here.
The wood, can you use for example old rafters?

I'm looking to get one to rid us of gas. We heat our water electronically i.e shower and the immersion for 20 minutes a day when required.
Our gas serves two rads downstairs and three upstairs,
The current CH system will need a najor overhaul soon, so I've just started to look.

My current thinking is a woodburner that would heat downstairs. New thermostatically controled panel heaters up stairs. And possibly a solar panel system to supplement the water heating.

The stove is very important. You'll find Scandanavian stoves such as Jotul with its double-combustion gas flow burn conifers without sooting up but others don't.

My current thinking is a woodburner that would heat downstairs. New thermostatically controled panel heaters up stairs. And possibly a solar panel system to supplement the water heating.

Having been in a similar place to you a few years ago, I now realise I should have fitted a stove with a back-boiler feeding a thermal store, supplimented by solar - and electric immersion as a 'last resort' 🙄 Next time.... next time......

As mentioned above, do think about the source of wood if you are going to use it for water heating as well - rafter will burn well, but being softwood and very dry you will go through [b]A LOT[/b] to keep the stove going!!!!!

You'll find Scandanavian stoves such as Jotul with its double-combustion gas flow burn conifers without sooting up but others don't

I've got a Morso 04.

We think its fantastic and heats a 3 bedroom semi with no problems. It doesnt have a great deal of adjustability on it ie it tends to be full heat or out. It gets through logs quite quickly (dependant on type of log of course) However, if you put a bed of coal in it and then a log every 1 1/2 or so it will keep burning at a steady temp and is very efficient. This is how we use it all the time now. We have never managed to keep it going through the night to the morning, but in fairness thats probably from rubbish fire building technique as opposed to the stove itself. We find it easy to light too.

We recently had the chimney swept and it apparently was very clear so must be a very efficient burner.

Word of warning about Morso. Some of the paint has literally peeled off ours. Morso didnt really want to know as we bought from an online retailer not from a Morso 'Approved' store. If we had got it from a Morso approved store it would have paid about £400 more for the stove but it would have had a longer warranty so they said.

They did offer to send out paint FOT...but for a stove that cost >£700 and is only just over a year old I expected better service.

If you want to know anymore let me know.

I also need to see if I can run a flue along the ceiling (boxed in) and out and up an external wall.

Part J tells you what you can and can't do to pass building regs..... or get a HETAS man to have a look at to see what they'd be happy to install, sign off and at what price.....

FunkyDunc do you know if the peeling paint is common? Apart from that is the build quality good?

I've had mine for 2 years and had no peeling paint, even when I've left the vents open and taken the dog out to come back to find the house like the centre of the earth.

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[url= http://www.flickr.com/photos/24589425@N07/5755268237/ ]DSC00492[/url] by [url= http://www.flickr.com/people/24589425@N07/ ]maffmtb[/url], on Flickr

Another Clearview owner here, well worth the investment.

Picture shows it the day it was installed.

22 posts and 1 picture? Rubbish.

[IMG] [/IMG]

Just wanted to share.

It's a Morso Squirrel by the way.

[img] [/img]

So how do you post pics from Flickr bigger than the icons in the gallery?

This is what I'd like. We have a 60s sort of architect design house. I'd like to be able to flue/vent this straight through a wall.
[img] [/img]

[url= http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3045/5755452027_16bb7239b5.jp g" target="_blank">http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3045/5755452027_16bb7239b5.jp g"/> [/img][/url]
[url= http://www.flickr.com/photos/matthewjb/5755452027/ ]DSCN1611[/url] by [url= http://www.flickr.com/people/matthewjb/ ]Matthewjb[/url], on Flickr

04 here.

Just had it a few weeks. Seems easy to use and a more modern look than the Squirrel.

But I've no experience of the other one you mention.

We got this one based on the recommendation of our installer.

Also, is insulating the flue lining important? Ta

Depends on the installation, but generally it keeps the flue liner hotter, which is good for draw as well as stopping creosote deposits (which in turn is good for the liner life and reducing soot/creosote build up).

This is ours. Had it two years now, very pleased. It's a Handol.

[url= http://www.flickr.com/photos/salsaboy/4398582311/ ]here[/url]

My Wife & I are looking to get a woodburner. We live in a Victorian house that has an open fire (a lot of faff - I've used a woodburner, cleaner, easier, less faff.) My question is regarding the chimney. Can I assume if my brick lined victorian chimney is o.k. for my open fire, will it be o.k. to use with a woodburner without modification?

oldgit - Member
I also need to see if I can run a flue along the ceiling (boxed in) and out and up an external wall.

I seem to remember there is a minimum angle or you can only go horizontal straight out of the stove, not up a bit then horizontal. Anyway as others have said part J is where you want to look.

Can I assume if my brick lined victorian chimney is o.k. for my open fire,

I'd get it swept and inspected. Then you'll know exactly what needs doing, if anything. It shouldn't cost much.

1.48 ... straight and vertical except for connection to the combustion appliance with read outlets where the horizontal section should not exceed 150 mm. Where bends are essential, they should be angled at no more then 45 deg to the vertical.

My question is regarding the chimney. Can I assume if my brick lined victorian chimney is o.k. for my open fire, will it be o.k. to use with a woodburner without modification?

If the stove you intend to install is 5kw and below its ok, Iam sure Iam correct in thinking anything 7kw and over needs a lined chimney. My stove just has a 0.50m of flue pipe going up the existing chimney. You will need a register plate to seal the bottom of the chimney, its a blanking plate and makes sure the chimney can only draw the gases of the stove and not the air in the room as well.

see the FAQs here I found it a great site.
http://www.woodburningstoveslimited.com/index.php?action=cms.lining_56

 

I've just installed a Stovax 8HB, which has a full back boiler and can heat the hot water and upto 9 radiators.

As has been said above, we will all recommend the stoves we've bought (just like our bikes I suppose) I spent a long time researching the stove I needed and of course I was able to buy it from a local supplier who matched the best online price I could find too, which helped the purchase decision.

Stoves Online is one of the better places to look for good prices and they have a separate site for boiler stoves too.

[url] http://www.boilerstoves.co.uk/ [/url]

[url] http://www.stovesonline.co.uk/ [/url]

We've had open fires for the past 20 years so are used to obtaining wood and coal, I'd also recommend that if anyone needs wood they get it before the end of the month (I know it doesn't leave you long) BUT, most places have summer and winter prices for logs and the end of September is when the prices all change!

Oh and if fluesupplies are needed then I found this place pretty efficient with good prices.

http://www.fluesupplies.com/