Woodburner - hardie...
 

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[Closed] Woodburner - hardiebacker, render, heat resistant plaster, stone?!

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Posts: 76
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I've seen a thread on here from 4 years ago but it doesn't really answer my question.

I've got a tall wood burner going in the corner replacing an old gas fire. The corner is fully opened up and the burner inc stand is around 1.2 meters high (its a 5kw).

It's a strange burner though as it has 2 glass sides.. I'm wanting to make sure that the walls to the sides/back dont crack but I would ideally also like them to be the same colour as the room as it's quite a large area to cover. (probably 1.4 meters high and wide on each wall..

I haven't seen any examples of hardiebacker being painted or filled? and there seems to be a lot of conflicting advice...

Anyone with a tall burner in an open corner got any advice? I'm wanting to go overkill with the size of the non combustible area as building regs are signing it off for me.


 
Posted : 22/10/2018 12:35 pm
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Our old one was in an old fireplace, again signed off by building regs.

We just used v thick stone hearth (10cm maybe) and 2-3cm thick stone surrounds all round. All done to minimumm the regs reauired size wise.  The building regs guy didn't even measure it to sign off - he just asked where the ventilation was.

We got the stone cut to size by local quarry, all just cemented in place.


 
Posted : 22/10/2018 12:44 pm
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Im just a bit concerned that stone in an open room would look a bit funky - if its in an old fireplace it kinda makes sense but maybe not when the burner is just sat into the room?


 
Posted : 22/10/2018 12:46 pm
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i've got fireboard behind mine that's painted and looks fine. it's at the back only though so not that visible anyway.

Original plaster cracked but that's because the fireplace gets damp, so the plaster never dried, and continuous heating/cooling lead to it cracking.

If you leave enough space i would have thought plaster would be okay


 
Posted : 22/10/2018 12:52 pm
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I’ve got hardiebacker behind mine. Painted with normal emulsion and is close to the stove (about 5cm away) in places.  Paint directly on the hardiebacker has a slightly rougher texture than smooth plastered walls but looks fine and hasn’t cracked or discoloured.

I would expect filler to crack but the join in mine is behind the stove so I haven’t used any. You could try fire cement in the joins but I haven’t tried that.


 
Posted : 22/10/2018 1:26 pm
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I've used Hardiebacker but tiled.


 
Posted : 22/10/2018 1:28 pm
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Andy what filler did you use on the screws or did you dot/dab?

Thanks


 
Posted : 22/10/2018 1:41 pm
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Dot n dab. Wasn’t a large area tho.


 
Posted : 22/10/2018 5:36 pm
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Hardiebacker board painted is the best solution, any plaster will crack. Depending on how far away from the walls the burner is will depend weather to dot and dab or screw. If it's close I screw them as I've seen dab come away with the heat.


 
Posted : 22/10/2018 6:49 pm
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Something like this   https://goo.gl/images/n4b8z4  ? If it's 'free standing' in a corner with no top/mantel and an exposed flue then normal plaster should be fine.

No 'lid' will allow the heat to radiate around the room far more than a normal fireplace, I doubt the back/side walls will get as hot (unless I've misunderstood the op).

Quite tall for a log burner, does it have a log store underneath?


 
Posted : 22/10/2018 8:11 pm
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Large, 12mm? thick terracotta tiles (sold for floors work fine on walls). Let looks good we’re we’ve installed them and retains/radiates heat.


 
Posted : 22/10/2018 9:11 pm
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We have a tall freestanding stove with two side panels, the sides don't give off much heat at all as there is quite a big cavity between the stove inner and outer glass. No heat from the back really at all. We just ensured ours was fitted to the installation instructions which from memory was about 20cm away from the back wall and 30 from the sides.


 
Posted : 22/10/2018 9:30 pm

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