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I saw this on YouTube and assumed it required 15 years of Japanese training.
This woman's video is create to see how to do it
Basically it is a mixture of cutting 2 or 3 units of measure from a piece of rectangular wood that is also 3 x 2
This shows the two sides of the piece you need to cut. All three pieces that join to form a corner are identical so set up a jig and blast then out.
Here is each side shown against the paper to try and make it clearer
It is amazingly simple and I banged out this prototype in less than 30 minutes. The joint is extremely loose as it is 3cm x 2cm and cut on a table saw without an aim for accuracy, I just wanted to see if it would work.
Yeah saw the other day.. Pretty cool except that you glue a bit in at the end, which kinda isn't really what you'd define as a joint imho.
@Kayak23
No its still a joint, the extra bit is merely a capping piece for cosmetics. Having it there or not lends little strength to it
Think of it as applied de4coration.
The wee glue in bit offends me too.
Just leave the notch for an honest joint.
What is the American obsession for table saws all about?
Do you have any recommendations for a beginners YouTube channel for woodbutchery carpentry ?
Ta
Nothing quite like a cool joint
Redben.
Paul sellers is pretty good if you are starting out as he inly uses hand tools so you don't fall at the first hurdle by not having a tablesaw planer thickneser bandsaw and the rest. He goes through techniques aswell as some projects.
Thats where I would start.
Its only one way of doing things ofcourse i quite like the English Woodworker too and some of David Barron's videos are in a different style. Same with matt estlea
You kinda have to be careful of some of the videos because it sounds like they kniw what they're talking about but then realise they're literally taking content from others and reproducing it. Then see the finished result is a bit shit.
Basically switch off if the bench wobbles all over the place or they're holding the wood in one hand and using a chisel in the other...
Try going to youtube and typing "Woodwork for Beginners" then as you start clicking different choices you will find the ones you like. There is one with a woman who talks through all sorts of really basic stuff like different ways to use a carpenters pencil or things about a tape measure right up to people building wooden houses without nails. Find you level and grow from there
Peter Millard is good. He is a pro so has a few pro tools but often doe reviews comparing pro stuff to DIY
The thing I most notice from the YouTube explosion is folks using table saws without the crown guard and without a riving knife (the piece of metal behind the blade that splits the cut keeping the wood off the back of the blade)
It's....Just....So.....unnecessarily.....dangerous.
90% of the cuts they do can be made with it fitted and so much safer with better dust extraction.
You see them ripping bits of timber wearing respirators because all the dust is firing upwards at their faces, when a simple crown guard with a Hoover attached takes that away.
The riving knife dramatically reduces the chance of kickback plus rather obviously, you don't have a great bit of exposed blade right there just waiting for you to have the slightest lapse in concentration. It's ridiculous.
Even the work they do with sleds could so often be made safe with a simple screwed on piece of wood to prevent direct contact with the blade.
I love YouTube and all it does, but these woodworkers should take some responsibility for the kids that copy them I reckon. I've seen quite a few English YouTuber kids now that have clearly done their learning from there.
Everything done on the table saw with sleds and discarded guards and riving knives.
I taught in a college for ten years and definitely noticed an increase in this sort of stuff from kids that did a lot of YouTube from a largely American source.
It's a cool joint that wca. Are you going to have a go properly?
And dado stacks....
That shit scares me.
I hate these plane handle push sticks they always seem to use too. Means your hand actually passes by the top of the exposed blade and with your pressure downwards so that any kick would see your hand travelling downwards toward the blade area.
This one seems quite apt 😂
Way better to have two, with each one's handle being at least 300mm from where it holds the workpiece. That's what the HSE woodworking regs say anyway. I'm not a fan of regulations generally but when it comes to beginners learning techniques on dangerous machinery I reckon they are quite useful.
I saw the u-tube thing about making that joint. While it looks good it sacrifices strength for the sake of aesthetics which goes against the grain for me.
If you're looking for decent how to videos Matt Estlea or Paul Sellers are both good (as long as you avoid Mat's building work and Paul's pontificating on life)
Spot on Richie that mezzanine build was a stupod thing to post.
And Pauls thoughts are bloody dire, his blogs gone down hill with prose recently.
Peter Mailard I quite enjoy but regardless of wether its a budget tool or not getting into track saws etc i think is not the place to start. And I bloody love my tracksaw.
The thing I most notice from the YouTube explosion is folks using table saws without the crown guard and without a riving knife (the piece of metal behind the blade that splits the cut keeping the wood off the back of the blade)
It’s….Just….So…..unnecessarily…..dangerous.
Yep, all of this.
I'm guessing the lack of crown guard is to make filming easier? No excuse of course!
Not using a riving knife and either feeding the wood by hand close to the blade or using inappropriate push sticks just gives me the heeby-geebies.
Teaching in a secondary school we don't let the pupils use the table saw of course, but I had to remind our technician, of all people, to make sure the crown guard was in place. He was ripping some really thick wood, no crown guard on, blade fully exposed. Was making a horrible noise 🤨
Who would believe it. I have almost all the safety stuff you guys recommend and I use it!
Kayak23 - I might try to do it nicely when I can get to the timber merchants. Most the wood I have stored is treated timber for outdoor work plus a sleeper like the one I made a seahorse from ( https://singletrackmag.com/forum/topic/are-you-bored-enough-to-watch-me-carve-a-sea-horse-from-a-railway-sleeper/)
Slightly less safety gear used during the filming of that 🙁
Find a top guard to fit if you can. Its surprisingly difficult to pick up you're own fingers 🙂 If you can't get one thats a specific fit to the riving knife there are stand alone ones that clamp to an arm reaching across the table
They make a really good difference in terms of extraction too - most of the material goes down and is collected by the extraction (if you've got it fitted) or just falls on the floor. But a small amount goes up - mostly caused but the upward travelling teeth at the back of the blade lightly buzzing the sides of the cut. Although its only a few % of the material created ( fit a stand alone extractor here it seems to collect very little) its this fine stuff that ends up floating in the air and is what you end up breathing in. Either while the saw is in use because it settles on surfaces and is back in the air again whenever anything is disturbed.
Where you've pointed out in the picuture that the extraction isn't perfect... with table saws you get that - the way the blade has to articulate, tilt, rise, fall makes efficient extraction problematic. But the stuff that its settling right by the saw is more a mess rather than a hazard - its settled there because its big and heavy enough particles not to have been pulled way by the extractor. So your extraction is catching more the lightest particles, the heavier stuff has too much momentum as it comes off the blade for the airflow to grab it. Catching the fine stuff off the top is more important.
I’m guessing the lack of crown guard is to make filming easier?
More that North Americans tend to use the machine in different ways to the UK, or certainly what the UK used to be like.
Over there, it's very common to do long grooves etc on the table saw, rather than a router which is more commonly done over here.
Much of what is done can be done with a riving knife fitted provided it sits just below the top of the cut.
Just lazy and irresponsible. Kids getting into it really have no idea of potential dangers until they happen.
Watch this video of a dude trying to induce kickback. It gets gnarly from about 2.25.
If he'd had a riving knife fitted, then that particular scenario would have not been possible. You can trap between the blade and the fence sure (if you've got the fence projection set too far past the point of cut), but you can't repeat that scenario where he actually comes back over the blade from behind. Brown trousers! 😳
When you're cutting solid timber, as you cut you release tension that is created as the tree grows. If you set the fence too far forwards of the cutting point, then if the timber springs open as the tension is released it has nowhere to go, so pushes against the fence in turn pushing into the blade.
Similarly, if no riving knife is fitted and the timber springs together when cut, it'll clamp onto the back of the blade and can bind or worse still, kick back.
Having the fence that far forwards is ok with panels/plywood etc, but solid timber is different and needs an understanding of the material to cut it safely and efficiently. YouTube has little of this sadly.
Wca as mentioned above, get a crown guard for your saw with a Hoover attachment or a split off the main hose and your dust settling will reduce dramatically.
That slow mo gives me the heebyjeebies kayak.
Yeah, mental isn't it. 😳😀
@Kayak23
I was just about to look for that vid as example.
He really scared the bejesus out himself there, and I reckon he fits a riving knife now.
Some of the problems is people tend to use you tube to find out how to do something and they see people with guards off for display purposes(some actually say thats why)
Plus they see operations like deep ripping, for which the crown guard needs to come off, I was taught that at building and printing, so it is legitimate operation, but as a professional you would have also learned the safety aspects of cutting like that as second nature approaching any machine. But a user with a small 59.99 saw bench out b&q isnt going to know any of that and goes off and cripples themselves.
Perhaps a youtuber could do safety practice vids. As there are plenty of how to, but now why you should or shouldnt do it this way. looks at kayak23 😆
Oh God, dont get me started on sliding chop saws.
CUT BACK TO FRONT. Not pull it past with the entire blade exposed, at full extension, leaving a huge gap behind and above it and the nature of most sliding saws is to grab and an unsupported flat board can lift at the back and well thats how life changing injuries occur.
[i]Oh God, dont get me started on sliding chop saws.[/i]
There is one if them in my original picture towards the end of the bench so Can I clarify what you mean before I have more life changing injuries.
I have the wood I am cutting held firm on the bed of the saw against the fence. Are you saying I start with the saw pushed fully away from me, lower the blade to start the cutting and then pull the saw towards me until the wood is cut?
Also, I was told to always let the blade stop spinning after the cut before letting it lift back up to stop in snagging the cut pieces. Is that considered good practice?
[strong]redben[/strong] wrote:
Do you have any recommendations for a beginners YouTube channel for woodbutchery carpentry ?
Try Grandpa Amu
If an octgenarian can do it using only basic hand tools then so can anyone 😉
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UClaEdLrmti779-tyovta8zw
Perhaps a youtuber could do safety practice vids. As there are plenty of how to, but now why you should or shouldnt do it this way. looks at kayak23
Exactly my thoughts reading this.
Trouble is, safety isn't sexy. Unless I was making something pretty epic and subliminally including the safe working practises nobody would want to watch it.
A YouTubeist called Gosforth Handyman did a vid a while back basically saying that YouTube content creators have no responsibility for people doing stupid things. It was a horrible video I thought. Really condescending and I didn't agree with it at all.
I thought I was toeing the line on what's safe with a table saw. I'll remove the blade guard (it's held on with a wing nut 😳) to get a deeper cut if necessary, since otherwise I'm limited to a couple of inches of cut, but never the riving knife, and I'll always keep my hands away with a push stick if necessary and try to avoid being in the direct line of the blade. But having seen some of those videos and reading that WCA doesn't even have a blade guard, I feel positively sensible.
Does nobody else imagine what the blade would do to your fingers every single time you spin it up? Maybe having a saw without soft-start helps with this!
That kickback video is a bit sickening.
[i]Trouble is, safety isn’t sexy. [/i]
Kayak - Just do it naked? Or possibly explaining it to a very pretty dumb blonde*
*assuming you are not a very pretty dumb blonde
It also just looks so boring.
"I cut all these tenons by cutting then moving it 4mm then cutting again and again and again"
I'm no master craftsman but gimne a chisel and a hammer and i'll be quite content for a few hours.
I have the wood I am cutting held firm on the bed of the saw against the fence. Are you saying I start with the saw pushed fully away from me, lower the blade to start the cutting and then pull the saw towards me until the wood is cut?
Also, I was told to always let the blade stop spinning after the cut before letting it lift back up to stop in snagging the cut pieces. Is that considered good practice?
Sorry if that was confusing. I meant the two being the sliding bevel and the radial arm.
Im referring to the sliding not the radial arm, which is scary enough lol
The sliding bevel chop saws as you say pivot, it is that pivoting allows you to lift the blade over the board,then cut down as you would with a normal chop saw, then push back, effectively cutting front to back. The board or whatever youre cutting and if you need a slide capacity that its going to by up to 300mm, which means the only thing stopping the board from lifting is pressure against the fence.
Front to back(normal) the blade is cutting down. Back to front(wrong) the teeth are engaging then the action of pushing the saw backwards means the teeth have an upcutting action. That action is trying to lift the board, and if it catches, thats when you suddenly realize you've done something bad to yourself and adrenaline is kicking in.
I've actually had an industrial accident(28 stitches) Very lucky. Since that time all machines im very respectful of and I think about the actions i take in the operation.
If you have a second industrial accident, youre a f&^%^&* idiot.
For definition - dewalt sliding bevel saw(or double bevel)
https://www.screwfix.com/p/dewalt-dws780-gb-305mm-electric-double-bevel-sliding-compound-mitre-saw-240v/62072
Dewalt Radial arm saw
https://products.dewalt.co.uk/powertools/productdetails/catno/DW729K/
I’m no master craftsman but gimne a chisel and a hammer and i’ll be quite content for a few hours.
Fancy giving one of these a go then
https://geekologie.com/2017/04/sweet-woodworking-bro-the-japanese-sunri.php