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I could well be the only person who didn't know but thought I'd post just in case. The chimney sweep had a look at my stove this week and told me the baffle was completely shot and the stove was being damaged as a result. If he hadn't told me I don't think I'd have known until the stove was completely ruined.
First I knew that the baffle wears out over time - we moved into the house with the stove installed so apart from fire bricks and door rope I thought they just went on forever..
So - just in case anyone else didn't know, go and check, now!
I had a metal fabricator knock me up a couple (Twiggs in Matlock for anyone in Derbyshire) after mine wore out, as they were ruinously expensive from the proper manufacturer.
I would expect a steel baffle to last for 20 years+ if the stove is burning wood exclusively, a cast baffle even longer.
I'm always amazed at how some users get through consumables at such a rate.
The problem usually is most haven't a clue how to use a stove, idiots who don't line the chimney guilty as charged.
Twinw4ll, Clearview Solution 400 baffle lasts me five years burning well seasoned birch year round as the only source of heating in the house.
Had mine out of the charnwood to get the chimney swept a few weeks back, looked in good nick, 9 years old now.
Waderider, I would have expected it to last longer.
Things that help reduce the life of stove and consumables.
Wood moisture levels not low enough, I have never experienced a supplier who has seasoned wood ready to burn, kiln dried yes.
Not getting the fire going quickly enough and not getting it up to optimum temperature before throttling back.
Not splitting the logs into small enough pieces and skimping on kindling to get it going.
I've been using stoves for 35 years and still learning.
If you use it as an only source of heat I would be interested to know how much wood you use.
Clearview was my first stove.
I'm new to wood burning stoves. Bought a Dunsley avance 500 this year. The burning curve is steep but I am learning quick! Only dry seasoned wood and wood briquettes go in. Burn hot then reduce to around 50% air intake, stove pipe temp gauge helps a lot. I'm hoping everything lasts for years! Fingers crossed 😂
Weird - we’ve had our Hunter for 15 years - used most days from Oct to March and the baffle looks brand new (soot aside). Only thing I’ve ever had to fettle with is rope replacement...
Ours is also drawing far better since the sweep removed the very large, mummified crow from the chimney 🤢
I have heated with just wood for the last 4 years, with 2 stoves. I get all my own wood and it's CSS for 12-24 months so it's dry. I have gone through 8-8.5 m³ each of those winters.
I have it seems over fired them a bit and warped the baffles. Steel is down to about half strength at about 500C and I've obviously had those sort of temps long enough for the baffles to sag. Still useable though. Both have a little rust on them but nothing bad yet. The flue is lined and capped but I bet a little rain must get in and cause a few spots on the baffle. I did think that after sweeping the flue in spring, a squirt of wd40 around the baffle and inside of stove might be helpful, but never remembered to do it.
I also noticed the other week that the round holes for the secondary air inlets at the back of the stove are no longer round... Or at least several have burnt the steel and elongated a bit.
The log guard has taken on a mild banana.... Up in the middle...I guess due to heat and expansion and distortion over time.
I hope things won't need replacing for another year or 2 yet, but could see a new baffle and other bits being needed. I could imagine having to spend £50-£100 on bits by the time the stove has had maybe 30-40m³ through it. If you think about the cost per m³ it's not much.
Stove is a stovax Stockton 5. With dry wood and the smoke control kit, and a decent draw, it's bloody hard not to over fire the thing sometimes... Particularly on some woods...Holly...yew.. very hot burning and long burning. Control is as much about wood type and split size as it is air control.
It won't be rain rusting the baffle it'll be condensation forming from moist air from the room.
Keeping all the vents fully open when it's not in use will help.
i'm sure in the instructions for my stove, it says take the baffle out when not using for long period (eg summer)
I do keep the vents open if I remember, the smoke control kit means they are never totally closed anyway. I just thought it might be rain as the top is mainly where the rust spots are.
I think if I were to buy another stove I might spend a little more, perhaps it buys a better made stove. Iirc the stovax was a little over £600, I'd probably look at £800-£1000 ish. Still, the stovax is doing ok and has paid for itself.
Stove is a stovax Stockton 5
We have one, never checked the plate for rust - also not had the flue cleaned in five years.....
Tbh I didn't sweep the flue this summer. Swept it with a rotary brush the last 3 and got no more than a mug full of fine, dark brown powder from the 8m of flue. Clearly my wood is dry and I burn hot. I'll try and make time to sweep the 2 flues in January, so a year and a half. But I'll not fret if it gets delayed until may. I will do it this year though.
I did sweep mum's flue this year which it seems dad hadn't done for...err....well... Many years. That was a late 60s built house, think a clay lined flue, and dad had developed an art of running a stove so low a single log lasted hours! I got a little more out of that flue but still not loads and still very dry powdery fine sooty stuff. Goes to show, if the wood is dry then it burns cleanly.
Good reminder, thanks. I'd meant to replace our plate over the summer but forgot. Unfortunately the two M8 bolts which hold the baffle are heavily rusted up so it looks like some destruction will be required to get it out. I'm sure there's a good case for stripping and cleaning yearly, and possibly replacing nuts and bolts before they get to this state! Maybe more expensive stoves are better designed and don't wear out so quickly.