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God, I've had some shite in the past, and I think that included some "premium" ones.
So, anyone got any top drill tips ? ( 😳 sorry, I'll get my hi-vis)
HSS and masonry, occasional use. I don't mind paying a bit if they're better - if they last
(I have a SDS drill and a missing chuck - if I find the chuck, am I right that SDS is much better than ordinary hammer drills ?) )
Bosch seem quite decent.
Sds don't have a chuck as such so you shouldn't have lost it!
For HSS go for any decent set of Ti-N coated quad cut ones and invest in some cutting compound and learn to use them... 😉
Dormer are the best Imo and I've probably spent 500 quid on cutting tools this year
For middle of the road likely to be damaged bits i like irwin ti ni coated i was buying boxes of 1.5-10mm in 0.5increments for 12 quid.
They lasted reasonably well and made good progress , dont like being sharpened though due to the coating but at 12 quid i considered the, throw away ( alfter a significant number of holes and 8.8g steel bolts were drilled)
I used 2 boxes on my land rover rebuild.m
How ever on my pillar drill i have a set of non coated dormers that i just sharpen on the grinder as and when. It doesnt eat or blunt drill bits anywhere near as fast due to controled feed rate , cutting fluid always on hand and easy to control speed.
When im needing specific sizes i just go straight to dormers - 2-3 quid a pop depending on size.
As for bosch. Their wood and masonary bits seem ok , their metal bits are shite, i dont snap drill bits often but look at bosch the wrong way and they go ping. Its like they got heat treating wrong and made em brittle as hell
As said Dormer are good, but really depends what your drilling into, Stainless steel will be harder and big rsj metalwork will require a spray lubricant/coolant to prolong the drill bit life.
Dormer or SKS. An old mate of mine who was an engineer at Durham science labs swore by Dormer.
I used to get mine for free off a mate who was head storeman for the NCB. 😉
Thanks
These are for general DIY buggering about, no massive jobs
re SDS - my drill has a normal chuck on it but is an SDS model. Might it just have an adaptor of some sort in the SDS fitting then ?
They can indeed... Have you got a photo?
... am I right that SDS is much better than ordinary hammer drills ?
Yes.
Because the drill bit isn't held static in a chuck and can move backwards and forwards, the "hammer" is far more powerful.
(PS. How have you "lost the chuck" of an SDS drill ??)
Dormer or Presto.
Why would you need a chuck to use an sds in hammer mode?
The above is what I'm assuming he has, quite strange for it to come as standard though...
Forget it. For home use with a hand drill buy cheap and replace often. The reason why you are not getting good life out of drills is you are using the wrong combination of feed and speed. A drill is designed for a specific speed a d feed and if you're off that you're just blunting the cutting edges. You cannot regulate the correct feed and speeds with a hand drill so just accept you're going to chew through bits. HSS is HSS no matter how much you pay so no benefit in 'investing' in more expensive bits.
Have you got a photo?
having just looked properly, it's obvious that it was just an adaptor and I've taken it off. I think I can actually feel myself becoming a man 😀
looks like this, but cleaner
I have an "ordinary" - cheap - cordless drill for HSS. This thing runs to 850 (which sounds a bit slow for HSS ? )
Slow is good - I think we may have found your issue with HSS drills!
point & shoot, lerk my old mate 😆
(anyway HSs, innit ? )
... and may I stress that there will be NO sharpening. I'm much more likely to bin/replace
Buy some SDS bits and you will see the difference.
If you have been using standard masonry bits in the SDS drill with a chuck adaptor (and the hammer on), then I'm not surprised they haven't been lasting very long.
Ignoring the fact that this is a stationary drill with a rotating workpiece, this is good drilling...
You ideally want a low speed gearbox and enough downward force to keep a constant length of swarf coming off the cutting edge... When you are getting flakes, chips and dust you are going too fast or not pressing enough!
Bosch seem very variable - the gold-coloured TiN ones blunt quickly, but the white box ones (forget the version) seem a lot better. Though I often drill stainless, so the "buy lots and chuck when blunt" theory often holds.
If using a cordless drill then I have found these very good for masonry:
[url= http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Power+Tool+Accessories/d80/Masonry+Drill+Bits/sd1350/Cordless+Masonry+Drill+Bit/p61737 ]Heller Cordless drill bits[/url]
I used a 6mm one for drilling into brick and concrete with my little 14V Bosch drill and I must have got to at least 100 holes when it was finally worn out. For 1p a hole you can't complain.
I have bought cheap drill bits and never again. They are just dangerous when the twist or break or end up trashing something.
Those fancy Bosch multi-use (blue painted ones) are okay and can drill anything (i have used the 10mm to drill out large rivets on wishbones).
Always found Dewalt drill bits very good.
For the SDS I have only ever been drilling into traditional brick or concrete, nothing too hard, so the cheapy bits that have come with the drills are still going fine. I bought a set of 1m long bits from Aldi for drilling holes in the flat and they have done well with no failures.
For drilling steel it's got to be a decent cobalt bit but normal HSS are fine when using a proper drill press due to the extra control you have.
Dormer are the best Imo and I've probably spent 500 quid on cutting tools this year
A small investment for a return of 70 safe deposit boxes
+1 for the Heller drill bits with a cordless drill.
Use them for 5 and 6 mm holes.
I've always had good stuff from these guys;
http://www.drill-service.co.uk/Tools.asp?Tool=020520000000
I normally buy drills (HSCo or Carbide), mills and reamers but would assume their masonary bits are of the same quality.

