You don't need to be an 'investor' to invest in Singletrack: 6 days left: 95% of target - Find out more
Have been (and continue to be) stuck decorating for the last few weeks.
Approaching the gloss paintwork stage.
Having previously had issues with traditional oil based white gloss yellowing after a year or 2, I took the forum's advice to go with a water based gloss - specifically Crown stuff. To be honest, while it's not gone yellow, it was bloody awful. Doesn't flow, not very gloss, covered very thinly. Sanding/keying between coats pretty much stripped the paint off; and if you didn't, the second coat didn't stick to the first very well at all. Then to cap it all, after I masked off the skirting boards while I did the emulsion on the walls - removing the tape took large amounts of the gloss with it.
So is there either a non-yellowing oil based paint out there, or a water based one that works properly? Googling around suggests not - most info suggests "satinwood", whatever that is, as the oil based non yellowing solution.
Not bothered about quick drying. "one coat" (it never is!) or smell. Just needs to work!
Thanks!
It’s all about satinwood these days, gloss is so last century.
I feel your pain and am in a similar situation. I can't understand how decorators make a living. Everything so slow and decent finishes so difficult. Tempted to take one of the dulux academy courses.
Its all still a bit dissapointing despite the claims. All oil based paints still go yellow, you could always choose an off white like Dulux timeless?
You can acheive a great result with water based on a nice easy uncomplicated surface (skirting board), not so easy on door surrounds or anything with a more complicated profile (stair spindles arghhhhhh)
Things that may help with water based.....
Again choose an off white as the brilliant whites take three coats sometimes
If you are trying to obliterate a darker colour do this with the primer NOT with the topcoat because of the above
Satin finish covers better than gloss.
Use good brushes . I like Arroworthy finultra or Purdy. Do not skimp here as it makes it harder
These days its often easier to do the final cutting in with the emulsion , I often let the trim paint get on the walls (just a smidge) on awkward to do door frames and do a final cut in with a large brush in the wall paint when dry. Loads quicker than masking, but thats easy for me to say as its my job.
For panelled doors use a good mini roller, do the edges and mouldings first with a brush and let dry, be carefull not to leave a thick line of paint, feather it out a little if that makes sense. Then roll the flats.
All of the above is pointless though if you have not made the effort to make it stick in the first place. PPPPPPPPPP.....etc etc
To actually answer your question, my favourite, surprisingly is the newish Dulux quick dry trim gloss.
However you can't beat the oil based satinwood for speed and ease of application though
I used to think Farrow and Ball was just a tax on vapid aspirational types. Then I saw the results. I think I prefer it to Dulux Trade Diamond.
why are you masking the skirtings then doing the walls, work downwards,emulsion walls then do the skirtings and woodwork.
i'm no decorater but work with a few so get advice from them.
egg shell for woodwork. stays white.
I use satin gloss (water based I think) and have found it goes on way better if you put a bit more on than you probably think you should.
If you try to do fine, thin coats it looks rubbish, shows brush marks and never seems to cover. If you put a decent amount down it seems to find its own level and gives a much better finish.
Oil based will always yellow. Lack of light speeds up the process. Skirting hidden behind a sofa will yellow faster than skirting that gets natural light on it. However oil based will give a much better finish, less brush marks as it self levels when drying. Water based just dries too fast. If you are set on water based then wiping the area to be painted with a cloth wetted with clean water immediately prior to applying your finish will help it flow. Applying with a mini foam roller and laying off immediately with a good synthetic brush can give good results. You have to plan ahead and work fast. I'd rather use oil based and re paint every 4/5 years.
I painted over all of our old yellow oil based gloss using dulux water based satin after using dulux super grip primer. Made painting over the gloss so much easier.
And as others have said do the woodwork last so no masking is needed and then tidy up with the wall colours. Although I put the super grip primer on first with a liberal overlap.
In my amateur hands I also found round brushes much easier to use for fiddly woodwork.
Our woodwork badly needs painting. Dreading it.
Thanks most of you....
It's all been stripped back to bare wood, primed and by the time I'm finished will have 2 coats of undercoat (did the first this afternoon), so there will be no colour change involved.
I'm using decent Harris brushes, but not top of the range.
It's pretty much all mouldings - picture rails, door frames, window frames, skirting boards about 40% of which is moulded, so the only bit I could get away with a mini roller for is the bottom chunk of the skirting.
I've always done woodwork first, then walls whether painted or papered.Firstly, however you look at it masking gives a crisper edge and in theory the gloss should be tougher and more resistant to peeling off than the emulsion. Secondly it's easier getting emulsion paint (wet or dry!) off gloss than it is the other way round.
Think I'll look into more satin-ey finishes and do it in oil. I'm very much in a "do it right once" situation, and I'd be quite happy not to have to touch it again before they carry my cooling corpse out of the place in xx-ty years time.
Anyone tried to emulsion the woodwork, then topcoat with a clear rock hard varnish? I've got a builder friend who swears by this method, but I've never seen the results in the flesh.
I ****ing hate painting. Anyone tried spraying? Apparently the new "airless" sprayers are pretty good, and I can certainly see the appeal for painting skirting/doorframes etc? Any opinions?
It's the old 80/20 rule here. Preparation is key, so to speak. Sugar soap wash, rinse with clean water and then previously glossed surfaces need to be keyed with a light sanding, 100grit paper for most internal finishes. Use an undercoat over previously finished surfaces, which will adhere to the previous old paint better.
Personally, I use an eggshell finish for internal woodwork, gloss and satin are a tad passé.
You can get both oil and water based eggshell and I've found for water based stuff, the Dulux Diamond to be pretty good, albeit pricey.
In terms of process, do the emulsion on walls first, then do woodwork. Cut in by hand, try not to use masking tape and to give you more control over the brush, use masking tape around the top of the brush to prevent the bristles from spreading too far.
Im not a professional painter/decorator, but do a lot of it and also watch those that do
HTH
Johnsons paint FTW, they have their own shops and 3 pro decorators I know (2 socially and the one I hired to do my hall stairs landing) all use it
and slackalice is right about preparation, I've had good results with eggshell too
Then to cap it all, after I masked off the skirting boards while I did the emulsion on the walls – removing the tape took large amounts of the gloss with it.
Paint wall first then mask wall and paint skirting board, I tried it last time and didn't have any issues whereas I'd experienced just what you did even with the lowest tack tape. I've never had an issue with the Crown water based gloss though and much prefer the fact that it's not a high gloss finish.
These are very helpful with the cutting in, also available on amazon
https://paintersworld.co.uk/products/hamilton-prestige-pure-synthetic-sash-brush-set
I've not used the gloss but Johnsons vinyl matt and eggshell is excellent.