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Trying to hook up a Renology DC to DC charge controller on a Vauxhall Movano for new leisure batteries. Anyone happen to know what is the best fuse to use for the D+ signal wire? What colour wires feed that fuse?
Ta!
My Iveco shares a lot of stuff with Monano, on mine there is a blue bodybuilder socket behind the glovebox/centre console that has an engine run signal that I've used to trigger my b2b.
On page 110/111 of this Vauxhall document it talks about a voilet wire that is connected to ground when the engine is running, so providing a 12v feed to a relay and using the engine run ground to switch it would give an output of 12v for your b2b. It also talks about a couple of optional plugs you might find and I think it must refer to those elsewhere in the document. However be sure you are completely confident you are not going to exceed the current draw on that violet wire (I think it says 400ma) as it connects to the ECU so you don't want to experiment and break anything!
Conversion guideline Movano PART 4 - 6 - Vauxhall
The above method is best as it's designed to tell aftermarket vehicle equipment such as cherry pickers that the engine is running properly.
If you Google Movano bodybuilders socket you might some more straightforward instructions on forums on how to easily use it for your b2b (and also whereabouts to find it without pulling out the whole dash)
An Iveco shares little, if anything with a Movano.
Older Movanos are rebadged Renault Masters, with the latest being a rebadged Fiat Ducato (I say rebadged, but Fiat is now part of Stellantis, so all ultimately the same company).
What age of Movano?
it’s a 2017 movano
MC...a Movano is a re-badged Master which does share parts with my older 2004 Iveco.
My newer 2014 Iveco is as you say, part of Stellantis and shares electricals components and respective faults!
Anyway please disregard my first paragraph as I meant to delete it after realising the bodybuilder socket is not the same/optional, hence linking to the doc
Iveco is mostly owned by CNH Industrial, who have nothing to do with Stellantis.
Stellantis really only bought the Fiat brand, as FPT (Fiat Power Train aka engines) went to CNH Ind.
FPT was spun out during the GM investment period, and was part of the deal that largely crippled GM Europe leading to it being sold to PSA, who subsequently rebranded to drop Peugeot from the parent company name.
Regardless of both companies being tied at one point, Ducatos and Dailys didn't share anything, other than both used FPT engines.
Renault Trucks (separate company from Renault cars, and owned by Volvo) did sell some rebadged Dailys, but only the larger vans/chassis cabs. Their more typical vans (sub ~4tonne) were pure Renault and Iveco products.
The Daily did share a small number of parts such as the cab doors with the Master.
And if you want a lesser known fact, then the Master was originally the Excel joint venture with Leyland DAF in the early 90s, with a lot of design and development done in the UK. It was supposed to be the 200/400 "Sherpa" replacement but DAF went bust in 93. We finished a chunk of testing for Renault in 94 (making the Leyland tech centre viable as a stand alone business) and it finally came to market with some body changes in 96-97.
Apologies totally OT and no help to Hannah 🙂
We think we’ve found an answer! Will test it out tomorrow on a drive and report back for the sake of completeness (and Google results).
Is a D+ wire to say the alternator is charging rather than the engine is running? It's been a while since I put leisure batteries in a van but when I decided it was too hard to bother finding that connection and just used a voltage sensing relay to generate that signal instead...
D+ is the wire from the alternator that makes the red battery light on the dash go out when you start the engine (or leaves it on as a warning the alternator is fubar)
You can use another ignition switched source such as the switched live to the radio or a 12v socket if it turns on and off with the ignition.
Voltage sensing is another way but my experience was if the batteries are heavily discharged this can chatter on and off rapidly which is bad for the relay.
Final option is the aforementioned violet wire or where provided, a bodybuilder socket, which is an ECU generated signal that the engine is running.
I'm trying to remember...I think my Ring b2b has built in voltage sensing so it just has permanent live from the starter battery and does the switching internally, and also decides when to switch between vehicle charging and solar charging as it has inputs from both.
Movano/Master/NV400 Renogy/Victron D+ tie in fuse location answered! The D+ wire is a signal wire telling the charge DC to DC (battery to battery) controller to only operate when the engine is running, so as to not drain the vehicle starting battery through charging the leisure/house battery. On a 2nd generation (2010-2021) Movano, there are several ways to tap into a circuit that only has power when the engine is running, however most of that circuitry (the alternator and a fuse panel) is located in the engine compartment, making pushing a wire through longer and more difficult. But, there is a second fuse panel in the dashboard panel. Almost every fuse in the second panel controls accessories, things like lights, fans, sockets, etc. that run when the key is in the "accessory" position and the engine not running. There is one fuse, number 18 in the panel, 5 amp, which controls the electronic key interface (transponder ring) that only has power when the key is in the on (or start) position. Tapping into the red and yellow wire (there may be other red and yellow wires) that feeds that fuse is a way to supply the D+ without having to deal with the fire wall. You can check that the wire feeds the fuse by wiggling the wire and noting which fuse moves. In our case, the D+ wire was easily routed under the floor matting to the charge controller in the passenger compartment. Here is the charger we used.
Traditionally the D+ is the alternator warning lamp wire, however modern alternators aren't that simple, with them typically using a single wire LIN (Local Interface Network) setup.
So in order to get a similar signal, you now need to use an ECU output.
Traditionally you could also have used a voltage sensitive relay, but due to modern smart charging systems, it's not a reliable way to do things. There are newer voltage sensitive relays which do claim to work with smart charging systems, but all they've done is lower the activation voltage.
Ideally now you need to use a DCDC charger.
Although some DCDC manufacturers say to use a D+/engine run signal, you can often get away with just using an ignition signal, as despite using the D+ signal to activate, they are still monitoring the vehicle battery voltage, so won't draw current if the voltage is out with a suitable range.