What's the STW way to wash a Goretex shell?

I try not to machine wash mine. Previous one (not goretex) delaminated when I did so, even using Nikwax etc.

I've rinsed and reproofed it a few times, but the reproofer is extraordinarily bad for the environment so probably won't buy another bottle.

If it's musty smelling, I'd give it a good air outside.

I use Grangers. Works really well with all my kits that its washes.

Whatever you use, before you throw it in the machine make sure that the detergent drawer is pristine. Residue from bio powders or fabric conditioner can affect the fabric and limit the effectiveness of the expensive Gore-Tex wash and waterproofing treatments you're going to use

If it’s musty smelling, I’d give it a good air outside.

Good call, if the sun evers shines again this summer, I will give it good dose of UV.

before you throw it in the machine make sure that the detergent drawer is pristine.

Another good call. If I do wash it, then I'll do an empty quick wash and then some extra rinsing.

Ditto the above. Just don't ☹

My fancy Arcteryx (admittedly years old and has put in a good shift) is delaminating in places and the seam tape is coming off, despite only washing at 30C and only once or twice very gingerly tumble drying as per instructions for re-proofing.

I've seen cycle tourists actually riding with a bottle of re-proofer strapped to their handlebar bag which suggests they perhaps realise how quickly it wears off, but check the environmental credentials first.

I just plan for getting a bit sweaty inside now, typically wearing long sleeve base layer, usually lightweight merino as I find it more comfortable but if warm long sleeve synthetic.

I use Storm Care wash and proofer. It's recommended by lots of brands and is not so environmentally nasty. Unless my clothes are filthy, I tend to hand wash them.

The new 'environmentally friendly' proofers do not last as long or work as well in the first place, in my experience.

I do still wash on occasion, and particularly if the item is wetting out. Anything like mud just gets a cold rinse and wipe off.

- make sure you clean the machine first so that there isn't normal powder or liquid sloshing to damage you item
- follow the instructions on the bottle
- I drip dry, then short gentle tumble dry.

I believe that a warm airing cupboard activates the reproofers as well as tumble drying?

Hand washing here, in a big clean bucket and wearing rubber gloves.

Drip dry.

Short 'flash dry' in the tumble dryer.

(Berghaus, Goretex Paclite. Good few years old now).

You know you can replace the tape if it comes off....it just irons on (tho it does seem counterintuitive to take an iron to a big piece of plastic 😁)

Or there's a place just outside Edinburgh that'll do it for about £50.

I'd just wash in by hand in warm water, no detergent.

I've washed my gore jacket in the washing machine with just a little Persil non bio liquid and it has come up fine. Just make sure you rinse it well and either tumble dry it or even iron it (use a kitchen towel on top) to help re-activate the DWR.

I’d just wash in by hand in warm water, no detergent.

Or you could stand in rain wearing it!

I believe that the point about using detergent/soap is that it helps to wash away the buildup of grease (much of it from the your body) which can effect the breathability of the material.

Pace used to recommend using ordinary non-bio detergent on their Event jackets precisely because it is more effective at removing grease than stuff like nikwax tech wash, they said to make sure the jacket was thoroughly rinsed so no detergent remained.

All my walking and cycling jackets go through the same procedure. Hang it on the line, hose its down thoroughly, leave to dry.

Grangers do a wash and re proofing service on their website, back within the week. They provide the postage. I send mine once a year

<p>If it’s pongy but still beads water I’d just rinse and give it a good air dry outside. If it’s not beading, a wash in tech wash then low tumble dry. If that doesn’t get it beading (I’ll just test with a water spray) then whatever proofer I managed to find on offer and another tumble.</p>

Standard GoreTex shouldn’t need any re proofing - it a technical material and is semi permeable, hence the price of it as it costs a lot to produce and has several layers normally.

As far as I am aware you just need to wash it in non-bio or hand wash and then tumble dry cool to “reactivate” the membrane.

It doesn’t bead as the outer layer isn’t the technical bit, just standard fabric of one sort or another, which acts as a protective layer over the membrane and if you waterproof it you affect the breathability by preventing the moisture from coming out.

I wash them occasionally in the machine.  Soap draw gets cleaned, loads of hot water poured into the soap draw to make sure its really clean.  Machine gets put on a short hot wash empty then wash the kit with reproofer on a wool wash.  Its absolutly critical that all detergent is out of the machine

Or a hand wash and drip dry then on a radiator for a while to reactivate

Nothing happens to the membrane - it’s pretty durable. It’s the DWR coating that degrades and is affected by inappropriate washing powders and conditioners. Once it’s weakened, the face fabric wets out, and stops the membrane breathing (as there’s water sitting on it) - it also gives the impression that the membrane is leaking even though it usually isn’t as a) you’re wet from sweat due to the inability of the membrane to breath, and b) the wetted out face fabric conducts the cold through the membrane. So you feel cold and wet - like the garment is leaking.

As someone said above, modern DWR coatings which are more environmentally friendly, aren’t as durable as the old school ones. Not tried a recent Goretex item, but the one they used to use was brilliant. Took a lot to deteriorate, and a quick tumble dry had it as good as new again.

Hoping the modern ones from Gore are still the best (even if not as good as in the past).

In answer to OP’s Q, I’d simply follow the manufacturer’s care instructions, after thoroughly cleaning the detergent/conditioner tray in the washing machine.

After pampering Gortex jackets for years and having the usual issues (tape coming off, delaminating, porous zones) I now just throw them in the machine with normal washing and Aldi detergent at 30°C. Seems to work fine, certainly no worse. Seam Grip +WP replaces the tapes when they peal off.

Wash in washing machine - using liquid dishwashing detergent only.

Re-proof, left in sink overnight with Nikwax re-proofer, agitate occasionally.

Rinse.

Possibly worth adding that if you use a liquid detergent in your normal wash then the issue of detergent residue is nowhere near as bad. A quick rinse of the drawer if you use that should do the job.

It's a while since I worked in laundry research now, but back then liquid detergent was used as the unacheivable benchmark for powder detergent to reach. When I asked why they don't just sell liquid, I was told that people don't want to buy it even if it's better cos they're used to powder (or if they do lots of whites, which powders do better).

The Max STW™️ way to do it is:

1. Buy a Miele washing machine with both “outdoor” and “proofing”cycles specifically designed for washing GoreTex type fabrics and reproofing the DWR layer respectively.

2. Buy a Bosch heat pump dryer with a “Sports Equipment” setting for reactivating DWR layers.

3. Spend a stupid amount of time cleaning the drum, drawer, door gasket before each reproofing cycle.

4. Buy nikwax in bulk and have a little section where the laundry stuff is with the little bowls ready to meter out the right amount for the number of items.

5. Spend 20 minutes debating whether one child’s coat is one item ,or perhaps you can get away with two of them and an adults jacket in the same wash because they are smaller???

Alternatively just shove em all in on a 20minute cycle at an Airbnb with a random machine. Both IME are equally effective.

Using tumble dryer has always seemed odd recommendation to me - surely it is causing much more wear to garment and membrane than most activities actually using the clothes

After proper cleaning I think ironing would be better, a bit of heat to activate DWR stuff but applied locally and for very short time.

I also thought that about tumble drier vs ironing, but my Alpkit jacket was disappointingly porous after it’s wash / proof / iron. Then I put it in the tumble drier and the beading is back!

The tumble drier is the secret sauce as far as I’m concerned.

Can I ask you yes about the tumble drying? Do you just stick the jacket in a normal tumble drying cycle? I’ve read on this thread about a quick, short tumble dry. Does leaving the jacket on a radiator do the same thing? I totally accept that tumble drying is the secret sauce - I’m just trying to understand in more detail.

(the reason I’m asking is that, no matter what I’ve tried, none of my waterproofs really retained their waterproofing after machine washing. I usually used something like Nikwax, made sure there was no residue in the machine and tumble dried afterwards. But no matter what I’ve tried, machine washing has been the end of the water-proofing.)

What if you don’t own a tumble dryer ? I’ve managed to reach the ripe old age of 58 without ever feeling the need for own one and am reluctant to buy one just to keep my goretex jacket working well.

What if you don’t own a tumble dryer ?

A blast with a hair dryer.

Do you just stick the jacket in a normal tumble drying cycle?

20 mins on a low setting is what I think is recommended. I wouldn't put it on a radiator. And line dry it before popping it into the tumble dryer.

with Gore-Tex specifically

I wash mine on a machine at 30degs with whatever detergent I've bought (it doesn't matter), just no fabric conditioner, and tumble on a warm setting for 20 mins to reactivate. Becasue Gore-Tex doesn't rely on the outer finish to keep waterproof whether it beads or not is really not that important, but if it wets through then top up the DWR layer as per the instructions.

I'm wary of tumble driers for two main reasons. One is that they're abrasive, all that fluff is your clothes. The second is that if the thermostat is faulty, you can potentially melt components.

Technically the aftermarket DWRs I'm aware of don't need heating. Unfortunately they're also not particularly effective compared to older DWR treatments using less friendly chemicals. The good news, apparently, is that there's a new DWR in the offing that's PFC-free, but also much more resistant to oils and other contamination, Patagonia is set to start using it in the near future.

No idea if it'll be available as an aftermarket treatment, but you never know.

Otherwise the basic beta is that you should wash Gore-Tex and other breathable waterproof fabrics, the idea that you shouldn't do this is bunk, contamination to the fabrics reduces the performance and life of the garment. Ideally use pure soap or a pure soap-based tech cleaner like Nikwax, Grangers, Storm etc. Household washing stuff contains wetting agents - help water penetrate the fabric - and optical brighteners, which don't play nicely with DWRs.

Using something like Nikwax TX will - for a while at least - revive the water-repellency of the surface fabric and stop it soaking up water and reducing breathability in the process. Gore-Tex is a sandwich with a thin EPTFE membrane layer between an outer face fabric and an inner liner/backer fabric.  The EPTFE does the waterproofing, the liner and face fabrics are there to protect the membrane, which is thin, white stuff.

They have a new membrane on the way using different tech because - as I understand it - the manufacturing process for EPTFE uses PFCs to create the micropores in the membrane.

In reality, the current limited lifespan of DWR treatments means that whatever you do, your garment will start wetting out again relatively quickly and stop working as well. I bet someone with a huge stash of old-style DWR treatments could make a mint from selling it off to desperate gear geeks... 😉

Becasue Gore-Tex doesn’t rely on the outer finish to keep waterproof whether it beads or not is really not that important, but if it wets through then top up the DWR layer as per the instructions.

The supposed reason to not use household detergents - according to one of the leading aftermarket treatment brands - is that the optical brighteners, wetting agents, softeners etc, mask the original DWR treatment and compromise the ability of aftermarket treatments to bond to the face fabric. In practice, as current DWRs aren't that great anyway, I'm not sure how much that matters, but you might as well give them a fighting chance.

And the rationale behind using heat like tumble driers etc, is that DWR treatments are/were fluorocarbon molecule chains and heating them allows them to re-mobilise and flow over the fabric fibres - or something like that. Don't shoot me, I'm not a chemist or a fabric technician.