[Closed] What's happened to my paint?

New plasterboard put on with dabs of adhesive. Looks quite uniform? Or Damp roller?

What’s under the new plaster - is it dot and dabbed plasterboard as the pattern suggests it. Could be cold bridging through and condensing. (External wall? Single skin?)
Are the patches damp to the touch?

I wasn't around when the plastering or painting was done but I suspect it is dot and dab plasterboard with a thin skin over the top.

Apparently the painter did a white mist then two coats of blue in a day. Fairly sure the blue is supposed to have 6 hours between coats so it's clearly a rush job.

They didn't seem damp to the touch but one of the patches looked like it was running / dripping.

Apparently the painter did a white mist then two coats of blue in a day. Fairly sure the blue is supposed to have 6 hours between coats so it’s clearly a rush job.

I know you're looking to blame someone, but at the end of the day - if it's dry, it's dry. Who in the real world waits for the 2-4 hours it says on the tin before putting on another coat?

looks like moisture coming out of the board adhesive to me.
should solve itself if the room is kept warm and ventilated.

Well it's going to need painting again as the white showing through is more than a touch up job, they are everywhere. It's like when you try to paint something waterproof and the paint kind of separates.

I thought you changed the tiles before painting? 😉

The guy painted half the tiles too. Flipping proper mess, think he put the whole lot on with an 8" brush.

Give it a few days to dry. Can you borrow or hire a dehumidifier?

If it’s Dulux bathroom paint from B and Q it’s beyond crap, thin and will peel before you know it. If it consumer stuff there’s not much pigment in it so you’d probably need 3 coats anyway. The Diamond hard trade stuff is ace for bathrooms but you do have to wait the time it says on the tin (ask me why!).

If he hasn’t waited the correct time for it to dry you might find that it makes a crazy crackle effect as the coat below hasn’t been able to dry properly before the top goes on. That’s advice from a Dulux tech at a trade show I was given.

if it’s dry, it’s dry

On the surface, but not necessarily dry all the way through. If it's overcoated in that condition, it takes longer for that contact layer to dry. Whether that makes a difference to moisture drying through it (as above) I don't know.

@b230ftw... That's exactly the paint and very similar crazy crackle effect.

If the paint really is that crap then I'm best getting someone round to sort it all out with some good stuff anyway.

Painter (air quotes) that did this is basically saying "it was fine when I left..."

@b230ftw… That’s exactly the paint and very similar crazy crackle effect

Yep - painted next coats too fast. I’ve not sorted my room out yet that I made the same mistake in (renovated a house and painted one room in a rush) but I reckon I’m going to have to sand it smooth first just to make sure the new paint looks ok.

The instructions are there for a reason. If you haven’t paid him yet I wouldn’t pay him at all, he’s obviously not a professional decorator.

A pro painter on site before told me to always use quality undercoat. Looks like they haven't here so needs more coats.

Unfortunately paid him as it all looked ok when he'd finished, it's deteriorated over the week.

It’s rubbish quality paint that’s all. All the stuff you buy in the big DIY sheds has less pigment in than proper trade paint you’ll find in a decorators merchant. What they do is add thickeners to make it feel like it’s a thick paint that will cover well.
Dulux trade paint (which is my favourite) can be mixed in all colours and is relatively thin paint but it covers dramatically better. Yes it’s more expensive but pros can’t wait to do 3 coats so need great coverage.
It’s actually cheaper in the long run as you need less paint and it’s quicker to apply.

Dulux trade

Not sure what's going on but it isn't right. The pattern is regular so I'd suggest it's something with the structure not the paint. If it is fresh plaster then it may dry at different rates depending on what is behind it. Dot and dab would have cold bridges, drying slower which would match the pattern. Localised dampness in the plaster where it was colder and dried slower would affect the paint on top.

You've got a couple of options if you've paid already - see if the guy will come back to finish the job to a satisfactory standard. Do it yourself. I'd probably wait a few days to see what happens though - it might dry more uniform over a couple of weeks.

I would never specify the number of coats for a decorative interior finish. It doesn't matter if it is 1,2,3 or more coats - what you specify is an acceptable aesthetic appearance and leave the painter to decide what that will entail and price/explain accordingly. Fresh plaster is different from recoating old paint and some colours have better hiding power than others.

Paint companies have got very good at formulating paints for different scenarios. I'd use a fresh plaster undercoat if one is available rather than a watered down mistcoat these days. I'd always say that you wait the recommended drying time between coats and follow the manufacturer instructions. As someone said above, it may be surface dry but not through dry. Putting another layer on top of paint that isn't dry can lead to all sorts of problems as it does eventually dry. Thinks like cracking, crazing, wrinkling or just peeling off.

I've never seen the formulations for trade and domestic to compare. The idea is that the domestic stuff is easier to work with for someone who isn't as skilled. It flows out better and is more tolerant to variation in application technique. I've also heard that the trade is made thicker as painters like to thin it back and they had problems with sagging.

All views/opinions my own and I should probably stop answering questions on her about paint for free!

As said it looks like dot and dab moisture, I'm a Decorator see it on afew jobs, should dry fine with heat and ventilation.