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This May we're spending a couple of weeks in Italy - our daughter has booked a Villa in Tuscany and we'll be joining her there and after pottering about (mostly by train) In Pisa, Florence, Lucca, Siena etc. we'll be dropping a car back in Florence on the Friday morning leaving me and Mrs BigJohn a few days to do stuff before flying back from Rome on the following Tuesday morning.
We did think of catching the train direct to Rome and staying there for four nights but we're not the best at looking at churches, museums etc. so I'm thinking maybe going to Naples first.
It feels a bit odd, because most of our holidays involve biking and windsurfing and this one won't (except renting bikes to mooch about Lucca) and our daughter has told Mrs BigJohn that Naples is "a bit of a dump" so I'm asking the forum for a few pointers.
eat
eat, drink coffee, visit the dolomites/venice, then train to rome (4-4.5hr),
visit the coastal hillside vilages of the cinque terre and do some hiking.
rome is a cracking city, stay south of the river in trastevere, better prices and food
naples is along way south (although an hour20 from rome).
I had a week in Florence for work.
We visited https://www.parcosanrossore.org/ which is just outside Pisa - amazing forest, lovely beach, stunning wildlife.
Cinque Terre is Not that far from Florence. Apart from the leaning tower Pisa is a bit of a dump. Livorno I found a bit more interesting. Also the coast from Livorno going south has some really good snorkeling spots or sandy beaches depending on what you want. When you are in Sienna , San Gimignano is well worth a look. I’ve never been but a lot of Italians always recommend Bari and Lecce on the opposite coast to Naples. But TBH I found Rome a really interesting place. The public transport was easy to use ( we were camping) and there was even a really good cycle lane that took us along the river right into the city centre. Didn’t feel quite so bustling as other major capital cities.
Go to Naples! The most fantastic, chaotic city in Europe! With some of the best food in the world.
It's more far eastern than European and all the better for it, and only 200 miles south of Rome. Rome itself is a bit meh...
Don't believe the shit about being unsafe. Petty crime is rife but you'll be safe. It's just behind Manchester in the list I saw of "unsafe" cities.
Go there! You will not regret it! I spent 2 months driving around Italy a couple of years ago and Naples was by far the best city I visited. Siena was good too, but tiny, and Venice was fantastic. Trieste out east is on my to do list, but Naples I could visit again and again...
Twice the price when we did it 4 years ago but free beer and wine, learn some new tips for when you bring the ooni out and saves you having to buy a meal later on
Tuscany is pretty big, so it will depend a bit where you are and how far you want to travel.
All the places you suggest are nice for at least half a day, even if you don't look at the churches and museums. A little less known, but also worth visit is Viareggio.
The beaches aren't great. My favorites are the wild places like suggested by matt_outandabout, or Castiglione della Pescaia.
The marble quarries at Carrara look interesting and offer tours. Still on my to do list.
Cinqe Terre is possible. My favorite bit is actually Porto Venere to Riomaggiore, which is outside the most popular part.
There are mountains and hills with excellent hiking. Monte Piglione is easily accessible without taking all day. Gondola at Abetone for getting higher without too much effort. Monte Farato if you want something longer. Dozens of others of course. Can be high and attract proper mountain weather though. If you do go into the Garfagnana then Barga is worth a stop.
Go there! You will not regret it! I spent 2 months driving around Italy a couple of years ago and Naples was by far the best city I visited.
Well i was coming here to say the opposite as Naples was 'meh' for us and you'd be better off getting the train around the bay to Sorrento area which was lovely. Also get the opportunity to take in Pompeii & Vesuvius when you're in the area plus can get the boat around to the other side (Positano etc) or over to Capri
But I'd probably take Rome over Naples, particularly if you've not been to Rome before. Plenty to wander around and see aside churches.
Oh, and Naples is ace. Not for everyone though maybe. Certainly a long way from a glass of Cianti on the terrace of a Tuscan villa.
I was astonished by Rome - spent two days sightseeing there and loved it
but we’re not the best at looking at churches, museums etc
Neither am I, but thats not really what Rome is. I think you'd be daft not to take the opportunity to see it. It has so many world famous bits in it that you can just spend a few days ticking them all off.
It is full of tourists though, so you have to suck that up. But your only there for a few days, not buying a house.
We had a week in Rome for my 50th just before Christmas.
We'd been there before pre-kids but had an amazing time as a family - loads to do beyond looking at Churches..
I didn't think the food in Rome was as good as we've had elsewhere in Italy, however the whole city is incredible.
I've been to Naples and personally i'm not a fan - i thought it was a bit of a dump - if you're going that far south go to the Amalfi coast - Sorrento (and everywhere else) is beautiful.
Re - petty crime - we've witnessed this in both Rome and Naples - if you keep you're valuables zipped away and be vigilant you'll be fine.
Apart from the leaning tower Pisa is a bit of a dump.
Also came here to comment this.
Loved Sorrento a few years ago. Vesuvius is a must in thar area as is Pompeii or herculaneum. Capri wasn't worth the expense of the pricey ferry trip for me.
For what is effectively going to be 3 days, there's plenty in Rome without travelling down to Naples.
@bigjohn I recently spent a month touring Italy by train, and am just returning from another week in Rome. There is so much to see and do in central Italy (Tuscany to Naples) that I could never fit it all in here. So I’ll just make a few notes:
- The food is fantastic, almost whatever restaurant you randomly choose you’ll get freshly cooked decent quality food. Day after day.
- They have a great high speed train network, like we should have had if we’d started HS2 25 years ago. That makes travel between most of the major cities very quick and easy.
- Pisa, as mentioned earlier is a one trick pony. You see the famous tower and church and you are pretty much done, worth a half day max.
- Florence is a beautiful city, with so many fantastic marble palaces and churches that it’s like being in a real life movie set. Just strolling around for a day or two, or even better hiring bikes and riding around is a must. And that’s ignoring the outstanding art and museums.The only downside is the crowds - it is getting very popular post covid.
- Bologna, an easy day trip from Florence on the high speed train. A lovely city and full of fascinating buildings and history, from the Roman street and house ruins under the library, to the massive brick towers to the dissection room from the Middle Ages. Just take the tourist bus tour, then wander around the places that take your fancy
- Rome, an eternally beautiful and fascinating city, and very easy to hire bikes and cycle around, and even out of town to the aqueducts and catacombs. (Bici and Baci can hire you a tandem). You could easily spend a week here, it is one of the 5-10 true world class cities.
- Naples, your daughter is so wrong - the ignorance of youth. Although it is messy and chaotic it is a fantastic lively city with an incredible atmosphere and buzzy vibe. The central city is worth a 2-3 days exploring on foot, and you can hire e-fat bikes to cope with the hills and major potholes. Then you must see Herculaneum, Pompeii, Vesuvius, Sorrento - all short trips on the local rail network. And also take the hydrofoil for a few days on Ischia (or Capri) for some water sports, La Mortella gardens, thermal bathes/beaches and a more relaxed vibe. I think out of our month touring Italy Naples was our favourite, from some very stiff competition.
I can barely stop there, having missed out lots of other lovely places like Sienna (day trip from Florence), but I’m trying to be brief!
Four days anywhere in Italy. Eating. Drinking. Eating. Drinking. Time flies.
Naples is a fair trek from Tuscany. Save it for another trip.
Italy is gorgeous.
San Ginigamo, Volterra etc are great, but lots of tourists.
Find a small hilltop village for a few days and chill there admiring the views and cuisine.
Can't really do much wrong in Italy.
I was astonished by Rome – spent two days sightseeing
In that particular city, you should just do the same thing as the locals.
Agree Naples is a fair trek from Tuscany! Not too far from Rome though so definitely achievable. We spent time around there in, blimey, 2008! Flew into Naples and had 4 nights there, train up to Rome for the weekend to stay with friends, then train back to Naples and ferry round to Amalfi for a week.
We thoroughly enjoyed Naples, it's totally bonkers and yes pretty grubby but we labelled that "authentic" 🙂 If you go down there then you must visit Positano and Pompeii. We didn't go up Vesuvius but I sort of wish we had.
With that said, if you've not been to Rome before then I would stay there. It is an incredible city, whether you like churches or not. So much to see and do, the sense of history is overwhelming. May should be lovely too - it gets oppressively hot through the summer months.
In that particular city, you should just do the same thing as the locals
Disagree, if you've never been you absolutely should go and sight see.
I've been to Tuscany a few times to participate in L'Eroica. Driving down from Pisa to Siena and Gaiole - Florence and Volterra are short deviations from the route. The countryside is stunning - hire a car, drive some of the white roads, visit a Castello, sample some local wine and food. Don't bother with Pisa - one wonky tower and that's your lot really. Also, if you do hire a car, don't be tempted to go big as there's a reason why many Italian cars are tiny - the roads in some of the older town and villages are tiny too. Stay off the Autostrada, look for the wiggliest piece of road and enjoy!
Tuscany/Umbria? Find all the small, walled towns that have local vineyards and experience the lovely weather and the great wine. Maybe take in the local food or, if you are feeling up to it, take a road bike and just tour the hills.
Florence is a bit touristy, but has beauty and history everywhere, the same with Sienna. Rome is, well, epic, but with even more tourists. The coffee is superb.
Basically, food. Then wine. Then just all of the lovely things.
Also need to agree that Rome was ace, even if you don't do the tourist stuff, just walk the streets, find a place, sit have a coffee and watch the world go by. Then repeat, but have a gelato instead. It's an amazing looking city in general, not just when you think that some of it is thousands of years old.
In that particular city, you should just do the same thing as the locals
Disagree, if you’ve never been you absolutely should go and sight see.
So who's deadpanning whom? I dunno. When in Rome...
"So who’s deadpanning whom? I dunno. When in Rome…"
You don't need to "sightsee" in Rome. It's all just there around you...
but you're unlikely to meet any Romans...
If you go to Naples and are staying in a hotel ask the concierge where best to go and where to avoid.
As someone above said that Naples is chaotic, I have come to expect that from all of Italy. The country and it's people are magnificently chaotic. Don't let that deter you.
Many years ago I lived and worked in Italy, I have always regretted returning to the UK. My job still means that I can go work there on the odd occasion. And I still go there on holiday occasionally too. I just love the place!
Excellent suggestions, thanks. You're all my personalised Rough Guide 😎
Definitely taking the train south from Florence so the extra time to Naples doesn't make much difference.
The Tuscany suggestions, while I wasn't thinking I'd need these, are useful. We're hiring a small car for 5 days when we get to Florence so yes, we'll be getting about a bit there too.
Now that's interesting...
The Sunday, which is in the middle of the 4 days we could spend in either Naples and Rome is the finale of the Giro d'Italia in Rome itself. I've never been that excited watching a road race - just a blur and they're gone - but this might be different.