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Need to get some trunking stuff for new cable runs affixed to internal brick walls ahead of plastering, but I'm defeated with nails (the thickness needed to get through the nasty mortar splits the trunking).
Googling brings up sticky fixers, but they will apply too much depth.
Ta for any experience, again.
Assuming it is plastic trunking would it be too much faff to pop a few holes through before nailing?
Why not drill a pilot hole for the nail to stop the splitting?
No more nails.
Give the surface a wipe with a damp cloot first get the worst of the dust awa
Nail either side of the trunking so that the heads hold the trunking on (ie don't bang then all the way in). They only need to hold it up until the plaster is on
Ta, but there's a lot of new cabling to cover, and even with pilot holes, the mortar is a pain in the ass and will bend 3 nails before getting just one in far enough to sit flush with plaster.
Will nmn bond quite quick TR?
Edit: More googling bringing up glue gun as suggestion?
Seal the wall with PVA first?
Ah right. No, the stuff I've been given is cheaper/nastier than that and a lot wider.
The profile is, um, kind of like this (Watch out Jamie)
It requires more fixings than that as the cable alone will push it out of place.
I now have conduit envy.
I now have conduit envy
That's the real reason I took the photo and put it on the internet. Subtle brag before it is plastered over and lost forever.
Will nmn bond quite quick TR?
Make sure its [u]not[/u] the solvent free stuff. Put some NMN on the conduit, squish it onto the wall, then take if off again so you've got glue on both surfaces and both exposed to the air, they'll start to set a bit then over a minute or two, then stick it back on again and you should get a fairly instant bond.
Predrill holes in the trunking to avoid the nails splitting it? You can't stick anything to a dusty surface as you stick to the dust not the surface so wipe down with a wire brush hover the surface and stabalise with upvc wash. But if the cable pushes your trunking off how will the glue set?
what he said - not solvent free - i was amazed at what the previous owner of my house had held up with it.......
mantle over fire - shelves over radiators - all held weight well due to design but just required a sharp tug to remove when the time came:D
Ta everyone; I actually ended up using cable clip nails and and some patience. Worked though, just.
A stiff mix of bonding coat over the sides after it's held in place with a few clip nails.
And use the metal stuff, the plastic is rubbish.
Drill some small holes along the metal and use Masonry nails
Unsure but you can only use Plastic conduit if its 50mm below the surface if shallow
depth then it has to be metal, incase someone drills into it you don't drill into cable
There is no regs with regard to using any type of capping as long as it's in permitted zones.
If it's not it should be steel conduit.
You can just clip the cables to the walls and plaster over.
The capping is used to protect the cable from damage caused by plasterers trowels and not a drill.
A sds drill would go through the metal capping in a second.
From the regs:
7-3-2 Wails and partitions
A cable concealed in a wall or partition must:
i) be at least 50 mm from the surface, or
ii) have earthed armouring, or an earthed metal sheath, or
ill) be enclosed in earthed steel conduit ortrunking, or
iv) be provided with mechanical protection sufficient to prevent penetration of the cable by nails, screws and the like (Note: the requirement to prevent penetration is difficult to meet), or
v) be installed either horizontally within 150 m m of the top of the wall or partition or vertically within 150 mm of the angle formed by two walls, or run horizontally or vertically to an accessory or consumer unit (see Figure 7.2).In domestic and similar installations, cables not installed as per i, ii, iii or iv but complying with v shall be protected by a 30 mA RCD.
In domestic and similar installations, cables installed in walls or partitions with a metal or part metal construction shall be either:
a installed as ii, iii or iv above, or
b protected by a 30 mA RCD.
See section "v" permitted zones where no capping or conduit is req.
protected by a 30ma RCD of course.

