What chainsaw
 

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[Closed] What chainsaw

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Looking for a chainsaw for making logs for our fire. Petrol probably. What's good / bad? What is the right price to pay? Is second hand worth considering?

I suspect this could be as devisive as a coffee machine thread around here


 
Posted : 01/08/2016 7:31 pm
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Why not electric? I've got a shed full of petrol powered garden equipment that needs servicing/repairing through not using it enough.


 
Posted : 01/08/2016 7:34 pm
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When you say making logs, are you talking felling trees? Had a Husky and a Stihl. Personally would only ever buy Stihl now. Some good deals if you shop around. Get the ergo start and quick chain adjust (denoted BE on Stihls). New you'll get warranty but they are pretty bullet proof if you go second hand.

Dont forget the extra's. Ear defenders and a chain file a must. If I recall you're supposed to run the file across after using a full tank.

I'd also say get some proper trousers, gloves and a visor (at the least) if you intend to use it a lot.


 
Posted : 01/08/2016 7:39 pm
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Not felling trees but chopping windfall generally. I think petrol would be best for flexibility of use. It's a vague hope that I can save some money not buying logs.


 
Posted : 01/08/2016 7:43 pm
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If you are chipping pre cut logs you'll be better off with a good axe..
What sort of logs are you talking about?

Edit beaten to it!


 
Posted : 01/08/2016 7:44 pm
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All my heating and hot water run off my stoves back boiler. I've been stockpiling like mad this year as logs cost me a fortune last winter. I moved in Christmas so had no choice but to buy in double seasoned. I reckon the Stihl has paid for itself quite a few times over already.


 
Posted : 01/08/2016 7:50 pm
 kilo
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Another vote for stihl


 
Posted : 01/08/2016 7:51 pm
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I vote electric

We have cut around 20T on one (new chain for £6) and it hasn't missed a beat

also being corded stops you trying to be silly and take it out to remote areas or try to chop down trees - simply used as a firewood processor


 
Posted : 01/08/2016 8:01 pm
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Oh, the agri/farm shops this way (Powys/Shrops border) always have sales on later in the year where they do trade-in's on old saws and 20 to 30% off new ones. If you can wait that long you could source a good used one that way. Imagine somewhere near you will be doing similar.


 
Posted : 01/08/2016 8:02 pm
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Posted : 01/08/2016 8:06 pm
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Just remember, don't drink and chainsaw!

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Posted : 01/08/2016 8:07 pm
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Something with a parts supply. New or secondhand, from someone that can talk you through the saw.

Borrowed a Stihl with quick adjust, not a fan, didn't look good for longevity either. Regular method is hardly time consuming or complicated, keep it simple.

Don't be tempted by a big bar, more power in a short bar. Sharp chains are king.

Edit: as to price that is up to you, our standard professional saws are £6-700 new and we get about £100 traded in dead. Around a hundred quid should get something decent, little more for something new, but not necessarily better spec.


 
Posted : 01/08/2016 8:14 pm
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I really like my battery [url= http://www.husqvarna.com/uk/products/chainsaws/536li-xp/966729114/ ]Husqvarna.[/url]


 
Posted : 01/08/2016 9:25 pm
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Avoid the cheap stuff that has no back up. That largely means buy stih or husqvarna in the uk. If you're cutting windfall for firewood I'm guessing small is fine...so hte stock STW answer (and mine) is to say Stihl MS170 or 180 with a 12 or 14 inch bar. I also say don't skimp on the PPE. Chainsaw trousers, gloves, foresters helmet, chainsaw boots. Then theres the splitting axe. stock STW answer (again my strong preference too) fiskars x27.

ms180, fiskars and all the ppe....about £300.

As for needing a service theough lack of use.....follow these steps.
1. Do not leave fuel in it if not running it
2. Do not use old fuel
3. Avoid ethanol fuel if possible
4. use decent 2 stroke mix

Petrol degrades in 3 ways, volatiles evaporate (and will pass through plastic cans...so metal cans are better for keeping fuel a while), this just causes poor starting from cold. The oxidisers degrade chemically and causes gumming...this blocks carb ports. Some of those gums/varnishes are not easy to shift...new carb time. Fuel stabilisers do help here but this is why you mustn't leave fuel in the saw. Ethanol absorbs water and seperates out as a gel. Some stabilisers help but.... best to avoid. ethanol also attacks lots of plastic.rubber parts over time...again do not leave fuel in the saw. Now most/all uk pump fuel is E10 (upto 10% ethanol) by law so avoiding it is hard. you can by alkylate petrol (aspen) and avoid these problems but boy its costly. Or use super unleaded...it doesn't have to be e10 by law and often isn't. Its hard to get confirmation though but from what I've found Shell vpower is usually 5%, bp ultimate and esso premium is 0% ethanol.

Use stihl green 2 stroke mix.....its got a fuel stabilizer in it, plus its a good oil.

cor...what a night...I come on and there's a wood burner thread and a chainsaw thread....so STW 😀


 
Posted : 01/08/2016 9:52 pm

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