Vehicle rust and ho...
 

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[Closed] Vehicle rust and how you tackle it

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Sup.

I got this van see, and it's got various spots of rust, mostly on the rear tailgate, but also coming into the wheel arches in places and the sills in places too. Little bit in the drivers foot step.

[url= https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48665581936_22ec0f96f2_k.jp g" target="_blank">https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48665581936_22ec0f96f2_k.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/2h9pQ2w ]Untitled[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/79912681@N06/ ]blackteaonesugar[/url], on Flickr

[url= https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48665742462_92944c9a22_k.jp g" target="_blank">https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48665742462_92944c9a22_k.jp g"/> [/img][/url][url= https://flic.kr/p/2h9qDKd ]Untitled[/url] by [url= https://www.flickr.com/photos/79912681@N06/ ]blackteaonesugar[/url], on Flickr

The van is 2010 but fairly new to me. I use it for business and leisure and it seems good mechanically so I want to try to slow down the demise of the bodywork

Anyone got any good tips on how to tackle rusty areas?

A few spots are around the rear window and it may have been repaired previously so could be tricky.

How do you do yours?

👊


 
Posted : 02/09/2019 5:40 pm
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Small patches sand back and treat with a rust neutraliser then re paint deep penetrating rust cut out and weld in new metal. When I can’t be bothered I sell it and get something that’s not rusty.


 
Posted : 02/09/2019 5:47 pm
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The window? in that picture - looks like the rust is coming out from behind the seal, so you'll have to have it off, or lift it up to get at the rust behind. Then 3m rust and paint wheel on drill or similar. Then a converter/killer. I like the Bilt hamber gel stuff but ymmv

Primer. To be honest I've never found a primer that will stick as well and last as long as the factory, so you may end up repeating the process in whole or in part, unless you can find a shop that'll stick on a bit of epoxy primer when they are doing another job. Get the best primer you can find. Degrease well, prime, paint clear. Buff/blend with 1000-5000 grit wet and dry. Again I like the 3m trizact pads on a DA or drill or random orbit sander. Wait a couple of weeks, wax. Stand back and admire your work. Discover some more spots you missed and get the tools out again.


 
Posted : 02/09/2019 5:55 pm
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Dealing with rust on a hiace.

Phone Richard Rowan and negotiate good price for export to Africa.

Seriously though .soft pad on a grinder. Grind back to good metal....if there is any....that sill lip doesn't look friendly especially as that's the outer panel the inners usually worse.

Then a neutraliser, prime and paint....if it's deep then prime and P38 prime and paint.

Unfortunantly by the time the rust is visible it is just a case of delaying the in evitable unless you go nuclear and have it dipped and welded.


 
Posted : 02/09/2019 5:56 pm
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Buy one that's been galvanised from new!

That sill looks like it's knackered - rust coming through from inside on the bottom surface, not just the seam.

Otherwise: Grind / sand back to good metal; rust converter; sand back & prime with zinc rich primer* (Zinc 182 worked well for me); good topcoat. Recognise that it's a temporary fix.

*assuming you don't have access to commercial quality 2 pack paints.


 
Posted : 02/09/2019 6:02 pm
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take it to a little bodyshop.


 
Posted : 02/09/2019 6:05 pm
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so you’ll have to have it off,

Oooh! Matron!


 
Posted : 02/09/2019 6:09 pm
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Oooh! Matron!

I did wonder if someone (you) or someone like you (there is only one you) might pick up on that.

Good thing I didn't write 3M stripper wheel as I was originally going to do.


 
Posted : 02/09/2019 6:42 pm
 td75
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Are Toyota Hi-Ace particularly susceptible to rust? Trying to decided what van to buy for a camper.


 
Posted : 02/09/2019 7:36 pm
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Well they are getting to that age.

Newest one being 7 years old.

There are better vans with much higher availibility (l as at time I had a fleeting glance at van trader hthere were 6 hiace for sale nationally.....obviously that changes) and all were silly money for an old van. Trading heavily on the Toyota Hilux faux bomb proofness that hasn't existed since the mid 90s.

You could get a younger galvanised van for similar money.


 
Posted : 02/09/2019 7:49 pm
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Cheers folks.

That's what I was looking for really. Tips on good products to use.

Nightmare of a can of worms to get into but there you go. 😕


 
Posted : 02/09/2019 7:51 pm
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How do you do yours?

Shotblast. It's the only way to be sure.

I do have a bit of a rust busting fetish though...


 
Posted : 02/09/2019 9:08 pm
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I'm playing this game with a Transit (and failing). Ground to bare metal, 2pack primed, followed by 2pack topcoat. Flatted and waxed.

Rust has come through after 10months. I can't be bothered faffing with it anymore.


 
Posted : 02/09/2019 9:29 pm
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How do you do yours?

Shotblast. It’s the only way to be sure.

I do have a bit of a rust busting fetish though…

Yes you twice dismantled a car. Galvanised as much as you could rebuilt it then sold it......


 
Posted : 02/09/2019 9:33 pm
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POR 15 is one of the best on the market, or paint over rust.
You can get a kit on ebay for about 22 pounds follow the instuctions to the letter.
Loads of videos on youtube.
Better than the halfrauds stuff.


 
Posted : 02/09/2019 9:59 pm
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Anyone tried attaching zinc anodes?


 
Posted : 02/09/2019 11:42 pm
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Anyone tried attaching zinc anodes?

Yeah, it does work.

Twas on a ship tho!


 
Posted : 03/09/2019 12:43 am
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There are 4 anodes buried in my front garden protecting the water pipe. They were replaced not that long ago. The pipe looked good. The anodes are cylinders about 3 feet long and 12" across. Won't do much for your mileage though.


 
Posted : 03/09/2019 1:07 am
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sell it and get something that’s not rusty.

This


 
Posted : 03/09/2019 2:58 am
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Dealing with rust:

1) admit you are fighting a losing battle. The rust you can't see is worse than the rust you can see.

2) use a wire wheel on a grinder to remove the rust

3) get some phosphoric acid gel from Mistral chemicals. This or citric acid is the rust converter in all those expensive wonder treatments

4) get some small tins of POR15. This stuff cures with moisture, so sucks any moisture out of remaining rust. Don't get a big tin as it will go off, don't get it on your hands it will never come off

5) por15 will only stick to previously rusty metal. Rub down the area and paint with primer and vehicle colour


 
Posted : 03/09/2019 10:17 am
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I had such a problem with my vintage bike, while I restored it.I used a super fine steel wool plus WD40(I believe oil is also may be used) and a micro-fiber towel.


 
Posted : 01/11/2019 9:50 am
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Oh yeah. I've stalled a bit now partly because of the rubbish weather, but I did tackle the drivers foot step first. Yet to put on a top coat though.

I got some steel off a mate, cut out the worst and splashed rust treatment everywhere, then welded some little bits in. Some slightly awkward shapes in there but it looks alright I reckon. Might keep the Wolf from the door a bit longer.


 
Posted : 01/11/2019 11:17 am

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