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We're in the process of redoing the bathroom, and I'm building a sink unit (not Kayak23 quality, but it won't be rubbish).
I need to finish it and as its nice birch, planning to varnish. Its obviously going to see a decent amount of wet/humididty and some (but not extreme) temperature fluctuation? I'm thinking it must be oil based, not water.
There's "Yacht Varnish" and "Exterior Varnish". Whats the difference; which is more suitable? Gut feel is yacht as I have experience of wooden boats*, but I couldn't say why..
I wouldn't object to warming the finish up a fraction, but not really looking for an additional tint.
(Figuring to steer clear of oils as it means I can't refinish it in the future if needed.)
Thank you!
*the experience is "sail in other people's wooden boats - owning them yourself is a mugs game!"
I think, and some of this was marketing back in the day, that the yacht varnish tends to be even tougher against abrasion and better suited to marine (salt & water) environment.
Le tonkinois
I use it on the “decorative” woodwork on the boat. Deep gloss, slow to cure (one coat every 24hours) but that means all the brush strokes flow out. My first use I got a glass like finish. One of these days I’m going to strip and re-do the whole saloon in the stuff, but would need to use a weeks holiday to do so…
I use Osmo Polyx on anything interior that'll see water, although even then with a sink you need to be pretty good about wiping any that's sitting there. Omso is quick and easy to reapply though when needed.
Used screwfix yacht varnish on an exposed outdoor bench, not sure if a more expensive version would have fared better but it was flaking away within 2 years. Needed a full sand back before I could redo.
As I understand it, 'yacht' or 'spar' varnish is/was intended for protecting the mast and spars of wooden boats. As such it was supposed to stay a little bit flexible so that it didn't crack as the wood flexed.
I don't think it's much more than a marketing term for exterior varnish now, though.
An external varnish will likely build up a bit thicker on the surface, and may look slightly cloudy (especially water based). I've been impressed by the Ronseal 'diamond hard' interior finishes - easy to apply, look OK and very hard wearing.
I haven't been impressed with Osmo - water marks easily and doesn't waterproof the wood unless you put *loads* on.
Le tonkinois
Well, that’s what Leo used on Tally Ho, so that’s a pretty strong recommendation!
While I love it for most things, and use it widely, I’d not rely on polyx oil around a bathroom sink unless you can trust everyone in your family and all visitors to wipe up!
I've never really understood "yacht" varnish. It's not breathable, so on a boat where everything's getting the crap knocked out of it, water get's under it, and rots the wood turning it black. The bits of wood you expect to get knocked a lot then just get oiled and look good for years as a result.
The stuff you get from a DIY shop rather than chandlery just seems to mean "thick gloss" as opposed to something that soaks in.
"Yacht" varnish is just a name B&Q etc stick on the tin to bump the price up a bit.
It won't necessarily be any better than the other varnishes.
Our kitchen work tops were covered in Junckers Rustic Oil which was very hard wearing, got 10+ years out of it till it started failing around the sink. Repaired it with some OSMO oil, but that didn't last anything as long.
I’ve never really understood “yacht” varnish. It’s not breathable, so on a boat where everything’s getting the crap knocked out of it, water get’s under it, and rots the wood turning it black. The bits of wood you expect to get knocked a lot then just get oiled and look good for years as a result.
The stuff you get from a DIY shop rather than chandlery just seems to mean “thick gloss” as opposed to something that soaks in.
Oil doesn't really work on boats - it attracts grime / salt and just goes black. We did our handrails in teak oil 5 years ago and still paying the price now. International brought out a "woodskin" product a few years ago which is about the best of the oils as they go, but still not universally praised.
Varnish seeps into the wood, and if it chips or gets bashed then a little localised reapplication of the varnish - literally a light sand then slap on another coat - mid season keeps it good. That said, any decorative finish you put on external woodwork on the boat will need redoing every couple of years.
There is a very good reason most boats these days have limited external, permanent woodwork!
Thanks all.
Does the Osmo PolyX seep in to the wood? If so, presumably that means I can't at some point in the future paint over it?
The wood is only being used on Vertical sufaces - the worktops will be stone.
I've seen the finish Leo is getting with Le Tonkinois. Possibly a bit OTT!
Sounds like boring (cheaper) exterior varnish might be the way forward.
My bathroom cabinet (top isn't wood though) done with Osmo 20 years ago, needs redoing soon though I reckon
The last time i picked tin of yacht varnish in a diy store it said, “not suitable for marine use” in large letters
I also think in modern boat construction the varnish is uv protection for the epoxy underneath
I realise non of this helps, sorry
I also think in modern boat construction the varnish is uv protection for the epoxy underneath
I think this has been the way things have been moving since the 90's certainly in the wooden dinghy space.
You'd epoxy your deck/rudder/daggerboard and then overcoat in International Yacht Varnish or whatever the chandler stocked.
Earlier boats like my original Mirror were just multiple layers of thinned then full strength varnish. The thinned down coats would soak in and seal the surface pretty well.
Le tonkinois
Used this stuff on a huge pair of Oak gates made for a customer 20+ years back. As far as im aware its about the best you can get.
I'd always choose something that soaks in, like an osmo or a danish oil over something like an old fashioned varnish that attempts to create a surface protective barrier. Lasts longer and much easier to renew rather than something that needs sanding off. But most importantly once something like a yacht varnish gets a blemish, it does an amazing job of allowing moisture in via to the crack/flake/chip and then holding it inside.
I am finding getting good recommendations for this sort of thing getting harder. So many times someone will say I used x and has lasted for 10/20 years and it is great. Trouble is a lot of what was around back then was great but has since been reformulated and is now crap.
sorry, just venting after finding out nitromors is now crap, screw fix changed their decking oil and the exterior gloss I bought for the door needed 4 coats compared to the usual 2.
That's an eye watering price - just contact Brian;
https://www.letonkinoisvarnish.co.uk/ordering2.html
last time I ordered something I was chatting away on the phone for ages with him - seems a lovely chap. very much one man band operation.
Ronseal 'diamond hard'
It's clearly not as hard as diamonds and I'm a bit surprised that they can get away with this description.......
You mean it's not what it says on tin?
I'd always choose something that soaks in,
It doesnt really though. OK its more than just the surface, but it doesnt really penetrate more than 1-2mm.
(Tests done, results viewed)
"Yacht" varnish is just a name B&Q etc stick on the tin to bump the price up a bit.
This. Put Marine in any product name and add 30%+ to the price.
OK its more than just the surface, but it doesnt really penetrate more than 1-2mm.
Size matters and I'll take 1-2mm extra in every walk of life!
But something absorbed to repel moisture rather than just making a surface barrier is always a win. Well - on day one a surface varnish might have a nicer finish, but after a few months...not so much.