You don't need to be an 'investor' to invest in Singletrack: 6 days left: 95% of target - Find out more
I have a deep seated love for old transit. Which means I've learned to weld but now I need to know how best treat the underneath.
I have a compressor and A gun for both paint and underseal but I'm fairly I the dark after that.
Waxoyl used to be the thing I'm told but beyond that I'm lost.
Cheers all Alex
Where are you and do you have a ramp/pit?
I'm in Somerset and no though I could probably borrow one or the other.
Generally it’s a truly horrible business. Lanoguard seems to come well recommended.
I'd not undeeseal
I'd wax or oil it
I did a shed load of welding under my Hiace.
I used Gravitex plus along with a cheap underseal spray gun(and my compressor)
Works well, looks good.
Paint your weld work good and proper.... Prime and top coat then
Oil with a sprayer* . . Do it over a tarp , wear a vapour mask
Leave it for 24 hrs before driving to dry.
Key part is get it into all cavities
Waxoyl and other hard setting " protections" often get water in behind and trap it there , make it harder for future welding , unless you have removed all the rust maintains ideal conditions for rust to occur behind and finally because of the hard black outer exterior....leads to folk doing it once and thinking it's done for life.
*Keeps my 34 year old landy and my 15 year old camper rolling
As a Mk7 Transhit owner.........
Wire brush all the flakey crap off
Fertan rust converter
2pack epoxy zinc rich primer
2pack epoxy black
Dinitrol over the top of ^
Waxoyl is crap - as TR mentioned water gets behind it.
Buy a galvanized Ducato/Boxer/Delay/Iveco instead.
Depends on how far you want to go really:
1 Clean and treat with zinc based primer.
2 Seam sealer over all the lap joints.
3 'Shultz' over the underside. NOT stone chip. You need a flexible underseal here. I used to buy the Tetrosyl stuff in cases of 12 when cars rotted just by looking at them.
4 Stone chip along the sills.
5 Cavity wax injected into all the box sections. You will need to drill and fit sealing grommets. This will need refreshing every couple of years or so.
As an aside the only VW T2 that I worked on (and I welded a shed load of those piles of junk over the years) that was not full of rot had been treated from new with 'Dinitrol' or it might have been 'Ziebart'. I think they were the brand names? Either way the stuff worked, except for the front panel where water crept in down the glass seal over the years.
Bilt Hamber Dynax S50, far better than the other cavity wax products.
ive bough a new transit (2014), and it looks in good/great condition underneath to me. surface rust to be expected, but nothing that looks rotty.
Considering getting some Lanoguard, but im interested if anyone has any experience of it.
Strikes me it would be a wildly unpleasant task in good conditions, awful on ramps on a driveway., and pressure washing the underside to prepare it is likely to cause as much damage as good?
presumably there are companies who can do this stuff for you, who have ramps and all the spray kit already.
Indeed there are...but when the vehicles going to rust anyway and road chips cause damage to the coating they have zero accountability.
Like many things the only person you can trust to know that the full job has been done is you.
Its the ones that do it in and out in a day that make me.laugh. there is no way you can clean , prep and wash and fully dry then whole chassis -then coat it in the time scales some of them advertise.