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Any idea what it costs to (retro) fit a tow-bar to a car and if there are any "discrete" ones, or ones that are easily removeable or that can be folded away or hidden in any way?
Ok just found some info on detachable towbars, this is what I need.
One other question though is what determines whether you need to buy the electric kits for lights on the trailer?
Just looking for a small flat bed trailer for halling logs .
www.towbarexpress.co.uk are ace, they come to you.
You always need electrics for lights on the trailer.
If you have a modern car then you can pay more (£200 or so from towbar express ime) to get a box of electronics to link into the car's ESP so it can control trailer snaking. Also it gives you a warning light if a bulb goes on the trailer instead of forcing you to listen to that beeper all the time.
Tow bars are always retrofitted, on a new car they're a dealer fitted item normally not factory. As above you always need lights too, single electrics will be fine. If you don't have them and someone rear ends you as they couldn't see your lights it's a world of trouble.
Ok and how do you go about getting a spare number plate, or do you just take off the one from the rear of the car?
Just had one retro-fitted to my Merc, cost 585!! Needed Merc wiring looms putting in to 'talk' to the gubbins on-board. A factory kit would have been 500 at ordering but wasn't possible as mine was already built, a Merc kit now would be circa 1500!!! Number plates can be made up by car spares places, you will need photo ID and your V5.
Ok good advice peeps, can anyone expand on the electrics bit?
It's for an Audi a4 estate and I was looking here:
http://www.detachabletowbars.com/a4-avant-estate-2004-2008-detachable-tow-bar-1.html
And there seems to be lots if options for single electrics, twin or Audi specific kits.
Really not fussed about it sinking up with computer as long as all lights work
If it's a small trailer then it's not worth it, but if it's say double axle or a caravan then it's worth it imo, could save your bacon one day.
Electrics options on that list:
Single means one UK style socket, double means two - the second one is only for caravans, it powers the caravan's electrics separately from the lights.
13 pin means the modern euro style connectors - you can power both trailer lights and caravan leccie from the one connector. It's a good idea because the connector is a lot better and more robust. Your trailer might have the 7 pin plug but it's easy to swap over.
Bypass means it's just hooking into the wiring to get signals for the lights. This is cheap but it means you won't get the stability programme, you won't get a warning if a bulb goes, and instead you will have to listen to a BEEP BEEP BEEP every time you indicate, which is annoying. The idea is that the beeper tells you the indicators are working so if it stops a bulb has gone.
Dedicated wiring is as above - links into the car's computer for stability and error reporting. The different options with the dedicated kits are just to match the age of your car.
Consider the age of the trailer . Pre '85 allows you to get away with more. Tatty trailers rule.