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Got a bit of a dilemma about siting isolation valves in the shower, the ones I've bought (trying to match the thermostatic valve knobs) are quite big and stick out quite far, so I'd ideally like to site them up high and out of the way. In the photo, hot and cold pipes are currently running up to next floor, but go nowhere (used to be in and out of a hot water/immersion tank) so this will become the new high point for hot and cold water in the house (in other words, I'm going to be elbowing off these pipes, not teeing into them). The obvious would be to elbow off below the thermostatic valve and insert the isolation valves low down, before joining the thermostatic valve. However, is it ok to do an up high, over and down with the pipework, as I've depicted in the photo???. I'm concerned I might suffer banging pipes because I've done some silly plumbing faux pas that will guarantee air in the system or reduce the water pressure into the shower or something.
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I would put the pipes into the bottom of the Shower valve and put the isolation valves anywhere convenient as your only going to use them whenever the Shower valve needs repairing. The less pipework the better.
The isolation valves have to go somewhere on the shower wall (unless I don't bother at all) and I would prefer them out of the way, I know that normal convention would dictate to go straight to valve, I already acknowledged that. However, doesn't answer my question, doing it the way I'm thinking doesn't introduce any more joints, bends etc than the other, I'm just unsure it'll be ok to route it in that manner. I suspect because it's under pressure, I'm unnecessarily fretting.
how are you going to access the isolation valves? I have a shower on a stud wall- the isolation valves are accessed from the other side of the wall under a cover.
Also use high flow isolation valves. screwfix do some. standard isolation valves reduced the flow on my shower dramatically.
Why don't you want to go direct to the shower valve from below?
They're Grohe valves and knobs, so I'd like to think the valves are suitable?? altho doesn't say anything about high flow in the blurb.
[url= https://www.plumbnation.co.uk/site/grohe-concealed-stop-valve-1-2--29800/?gclid=Cj0KCQiAtJbTBRDkARIsAIA0a5OOCD3OcpbvzPqgkY0bbK-mrg3gsq6MEf_fmOiFx2i_7Q9qY4HzeDQaAv0BEALw_wcB ]valves here[/url]
[url= http://www.tradetaps.com/grohe-grohtherm-2000-concealed-stop-valve-trim.html?gclid=Cj0KCQiAtJbTBRDkARIsAIA0a5MXOD5SyTaqfTpoDWTcSN6PdXYgZ8yupXW8pRoiLHkAxUv_m0AgVncaAj-WEALw_wcB ]trim here[/url]
I would be using something like this in your situation. Behind a panel rather than with a fitting. Are you not having access from behind for maintenance?
The one I've linked is easy to turn off in seconds with a flat blade screwdriver.
These are the ones I used
https://www.screwfix.com/p/full-bore-isolating-valve-15mm/46860
Standard ones restricted the flow too much. Mine are hidden behind a hatch accessed from the other side of the wall
I don't really get why you want isolation valves that are visible - its not something you are going to use apart from if you have to replace the shower.
the valves are actually this [url= https://www.tapsempire.co.uk/grohe-concealed-stop-valve-29811-p-11223.html?gclid=Cj0KCQiAtJbTBRDkARIsAIA0a5N98k8Xt67jZf_Lc2m_YX9AdHyv3XFGhe8F5afSb7IuU1BT0ZMjSlQaAk7EEALw_wcB ]product code[/url]
IANAP but I would agree with the above, i.e. what value are you getting from the proposed isolation valve? They seem relatively expensive and will mean more work (drilling tiles etc.).
I probably wouldn't bother.. can you not site a basic valve (such as the linked screwfix valve) somewhere you can access.. behind a panel, sink, etc.
other side of the shower wall is the landing, don't really want to start cutting access holes into that.
Why don't you want to go direct to the shower valve from below?
because that would mean the stop valve knobs would have to be sticking out around peoples ankles/shins, in more direct view. the valve knobs/trim I've linked to are quite a bit bigger than I expected, so would rather have them up out of the way, out of direct view, sort of above eye level.
the hot/cold pipes run directly under the shower and shower feed will be tee'd off directly from those (they are already there, as would be using the old pipes to/from old previous hot water tank). So, in order to only isolate the shower, I haven't got much choice.
So, pipes in floor are hot and cold going round the house, pipes up wall used to go to/from the hot water tank of the old heating/hot water system
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Looks like someone has put a sizeable notch in a joist for a waste pipe there! I would be wanting to put a brace on that while the floor was up.
Is there somewhere upstream you can put an isolation in? I.e. that would isolate shower, sink and toilet? I'm struggling to think of a scenario (other than replacing the shower) where the proposed isolation valves would be useful.
So, should I create access from the landing wall? I suppose I could cut a section of skirting board or something?.
shower is behind the wall on right.
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I'm struggling to think of a scenario (other than replacing the shower) where the proposed isolation valves would be useful.
was just following the instruction manual which tells you to install stop valves for the shower. I presumed the point was if you got a leak or the thermostatic valve needed attention/replacing or yes, the whole thing, you could still use the toilet, have a bath, do the washing up. Must admit I was questioning in my mind how necessary?, potentially sods law tho if I don't.
Are the two vertical pipes within the cubicle area, or outside it?
If they are within the cubicle space, then I would either look upstream of the shower/bath/basin as suggested, or screw a discreet painted panel just above skirt height behind the door opening area.
Placing your chosen valves will be a ballache tiling-wise, and gain very little in terms of appearance and functionality.
Are the two vertical pipes within the cubicle area, or outside it?
within, in so much as it'll be open wetroom rather than cubicle. The whole area will be tiled incl the tray to match the rest of the bathroom, which itself is all screed/tiled sealed/wetroom.
Maybe landing wall access is a possibility.
I would put a hatch on the landing wall personally - behind the door you will never see it. Cut away the plasterboard and screw a bit of 5mm mdf over the hole, paint to match the walls
I have small access hatch in hallway with both isolation and pressure balancing valve behind for access. It is just above skirting. Hidden by a book case.
I had similar to you - prompted by a leak and cold water run up and over through attic.
I think you might be right, maybe some small screwdriver access holes in the landing wall, plugged with plastic screwcaps or something. not sure I want to put a hatch in.
I think you might be right, maybe some small screwdriver access holes in the landing wall, plugged with plastic screwcaps or something. not sure I want to put a hatch in.
Which would mysteriously be just out of alignment when needed... 😀
Yes I did this for our en suite shower; I left an access hatch in the office wall behind, covered it with thin ply and hung a picture in front of that.
The thread has caused me a small Eureka! moment - my sluggish hot water supply is probably down to a couple of those stoopid small-bore 15mm isolators in the system. Must replace them with the big-bore version.
Just a thought but could you fit the valves behind the Skirting board and screw it back to the wall or use magnetic catches?
I am assuming by the photo that the Hall is behind the pipework.