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Thinking of heading over to the small isles at the start of May.
They look lovely but I don't know much about them. What are the stw experiences, places to see/stay and things to do. Is it worth taking the mtb?
Which ones? Ed Shoote has a route on Rum in his Gravel Bike Scotland book - looks like a great route and I’d like to get out there at some point. I can see across to Rum, Eigg, Skye and beyond when I’m out on my postie round on the west side of Mull, which makes it all the more appealing - but the logistics of getting there means it’s at least a 2-3 day trip.
Eigg primarily and maybe Rum
The three islands each have their own distinct characters; muck is lovely and wee; the shop is a green shed with honesty box - you can buy whatever veg has just come out of the allotment, art or a wooden jumper. Got a cracking wee cafe on the island too but need to check when it’s open - bike would be useless, you can walk from end to end in about half an hour. They run an annual triathlon- although think it’s a wheelbarrow race instead of cycling leg. Amazing sunsets from Gallanach Bay on the North of the island.
Eigg is much more vibrant island; great beaches more holiday cottages so town hall / cafe / pub was busy last time we were there in 2021. Interesting cave where there an entire clan got wiped out during an inter clan battle - smoked out and asphyxiated.
Rum is much more wild and the most vicious midges I’ve came across on account the shear number of deer on the island. I’ve not explored much inland in Rum; the anchorage has reputed poor holding so always been loath to leave the boat unattended too long. The big house has fallen into disrepair and no longer open to the public- it used to the youth hostel
Canna has a brilliant cafe restaurant - usually need to book. Nice wee island, nice beaches and a perfect highlight of the competing religions on Scotland - tiny island with two churches on different sides of the harbour. Population these days seem to shun both in equal measure.
On all islands your bike would likely be useless.
Sorry if this appears a grandmother sucking eggs comment, but often a combination of terrain and lack of footfall/traffic means that you’re probably best sticking to existing tracks - whilst a route may look viable on a map, there’s probably a reason why there’s no track/many folks been that way before. I’ve set out with great intent in these parts to ride or run a certain route to find it near impossible - I’ve seen if I could ride a footpath and ended up pushing most of the way - either too rocky or too boggy and nothing much in between. Earlier in the year is better before the greenery and bracken gets going too.
We went to eigg and rum last may. Loved them both, they are very different. Rum is wilder away from kinloch, the cuillin is fantastic, and there are some lovely beaches. Busier with visitors than eigg I'd say, many of them seemed to be peak bagging. MTB or gravel bike would be handy for out and back trips to kilmory (wonderful beach) and Harris, but they're walkable. We stayed in a shepherds hut on wheels thing which was nice, there's a hostel and a campsite - midges were getting testy in mid may. Sea eagles everywhere. The shop is pretty good for a wee island but lacking in smiles!
I loved eigg, a bit more community oriented, working crofts, a brewery, a cracking cafe and a good shop. Stayed in a yurt at laid, which has a fantastic beach. Great clifftop walking, views to die for and sea eagles everywhere! You could manage without a bike.
The ferry trip round the isles is great on a sunny day, we saw dolphins and minke whales. I'd go back given half a chance.
I went to Rum about 14 or 15 years ago. Stayed in Dibidil bothy and the big house which was still a hostel.
Walked the Rum Cuillin ridge which is amazing and then had just over half a day to explore the day after.
There are a couple of good dirt roads across the island. Bike would be good as it's about a day to walk from one end to the other, or a very long one for there and back.
The out of date guide book is still probably worth a look for background info. I don't think there is an up to date version and it can be had cheap second hand. The bit about needing permission to land is well out of date and Eigg is now community owned so totally changed.
I went in late August. When the wind dropped waiting for the ferry you needed a head net. Walking and near the coast or wind less of a problem.
https://www.abebooks.co.uk/9781852840020/Island-Rhum-Guide-Walkers-Climbers-1852840021/plp
I stayed in Mallaig where I enjoyed heartburn after a daily diet of chippy teas and full Scottish breakfasts.
I went to Rum and though it was interesting I might be inclined to visit Eigg based on the above comments.
Obviously Skye is nearby too.
Lovely bothy on the west coast of Rum. Nice views over to Skye and a herd of feral goats walking up and down the beach. A bike only useful for about 3 miles of the 6 mile walk over. Slightly more if you go in and out the same route rather than using an alternate one way.