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I learned to lead on a rack of 1-10 rocks, a couple of small friends and a couple of hexes. You can climb a surprising amount on a small rack as long as you’re not chucking things in every few feet. Think I probably got up to about E1-E2 before I needed to get a more extensive rack.
I think I started with a couple of Moacs, a baby Moac on wire and a hex along with a couple of tapes. Mind you I also had 120ft of hawser laid rope and a waist tie. So I wouldn't recommend that particular setup nowadays.
Just to echo what Spin said. Nuts are the most useful protection but you need to learn how to place them. It is fairly common to see strong climbing wall jocks new to leading trad shoving in loads of micro cams into tiny shallow slots, providing, at best, marginal protection. Perfect bomber nut slots are overlooked in the process. But then they're maybe strong enough not fall off!
It is fairly common to see strong climbing wall jocks new to leading trad shoving in loads of micro cams into tiny shallow slots, providing, at best, marginal protection
I've done quite a few routes recently that I've found to be very well protected with nuts but when I look at the UKC logbook comments some people are saying they're bold or run out. I think a lot of folks have become over reliant on cams.
+1 for a set of nuts first. I started with one set of nuts and a few hexes and that was fine for quite a while. Eventually added friends, quadcams, aliens, RPs, brass offsets, more nuts.... but you don't need all that to get going with. I know it all looks shiny and exciting in the glass counter at your local climbing shop, but just go simple and learn to place nuts really well.
I think I started with a couple of Moacs
I've still got a moac somewhere. I no longer have the far too small EBs or the whillans harness. Jumpers for bleedin' goalposts
Pretty much every youtube mid-grade trad climbing video I see seems to involve placing nothing but cams.
I thought about trying to refresh my trad rack, but the cost of even just scrapping and replacing the slings/quickdraws/ropes/harnesses made me think twice.
And one from Wednesday. Alpine Monkey at Redhythe Point. A nice wee spot but shan't be rushing back.
DMM used to do something called the protection pack.....which is 4 hexes, a set of nuts and a set of offsets....great value, add in those quick draws off Cougar and you've got what I led my first years worth of climbs on, up to VS 4c. I now own 4 cams and still have a maximum lead of VS 4c! This year has been a write of for outdoors climbing for me. Hoping to right that next year. Might need to join a club though as my climbing partner is going to become a dad in the new year.
Let's talk local training/quick hit crags. The wee places you go for a quick burn that you have grown fond of but would never recommend to visitors. Mine's the Tom Riach boulder, 15 mins from the house, limited but some excellent stamina traverses. What have you got? Don't bother if Almscliff is your local... 🙂
Nothing within 1.5- 2hrs for me. So it's Red Spider (climbing wall) or the garden woody. A little boulder nearby would be great though. A few years ago I did try and get the local council to fund some Sheffield style boulders in parks, but failed. Money went on some sort of fitness trail thing instead.
... within 15 minutes - Shipley Glen (and no walk in so easiest for quick blast), Caley ( short walk in to roadside boulders), Ilkley, Baildon Bank.
Almscliff is actually within 30 minutes ( sorry)
within 15 minutes – Shipley Glen (and no walk in so easiest for quick blast), Caley ( short walk in to roadside boulders)
Been to Caley quite a few times over the years. Lots of brilliant problems. Mr Smooth sticks in my mind as a classic piece of nonsense
About 15-20 mins away. My daughter is in the Boulder Britain (Niall Grimes guide book) 
We also have the Bowder stone 45 mins away. Some good evenings spent there followed by a paddle board 5 mins down the road
Got to ask Spin, but is the friction on nougat actually better in the wet?
Been to Caley quite a few times over the years. Lots of brilliant problems. Mr Smooth sticks in my mind as a classic piece of nonsense
Classy line - next boulder along from one of my favourites The Horn
Given all the climbing on my doorstep I should spend more time on rock and less in the gym really. To be fair to myself the weather has been so wet for last 18 months I guess
Got to ask Spin, but is the friction on nougat actually better in the wet?
Don't you be slagging my local off. 🙂
It's actually brutal on the tips, never managed much more than 2 hrs there.
This weekend, Killer Instinct and Jack the Ripper on Stack Pollaidh. the Talisman Direct Start and Zircon in the Cairngorms.
Nice. Keep it coming - bit of inspiration
Roaches is my local.crag. 25 minutes on a good traffic day. Not climbed there in about 18 months though. Hoping to really get back climbing as of next month.
First time out in 2 year, due to long covid, on Saturday. We ended up doing Curved Ridge and Crowberry Tower in sublime conditions. There was even a plentiful supply of blaeberries all the way up the route. Wonderful day - 10/10 rating.
First time out in 2 year, due to long covid, on Saturday. We ended up doing Curved Ridge and Crowberry Tower in sublime conditions. There was even a plentiful supply of blaeberries all the way up the route. Wonderful day – 10/10 rating.
A day on the Buchaille in the sun never fails to please.
Cracking day soloing at Bowden and Kyloe yesterday, 51 routes and a few problems. Kyloe never fails to please.
Bowden is looking pretty worn these days, the sort of thing you really notice when you don't visit regularly.
<br />upload pic<br />
Nice.
That's the downside of a softsock crag that gets enough trade to not go green, get dirty.
On a similar subject I saw some photographs of Froggatt a week or so ago, at the busy bit (Downhill racer etc.) and I thought it looked more grassy than it did 30 years ago. I haven't been there for a long time now...
I thought it looked more grassy than it did 30 years ago. I haven’t been there for a long time now…
Pads make a big difference to the erosion at the bottom of problems. The rock on Child's Play at Bowden is trashed but the bottom of it is all grass now whereas is was just dirt back in the day.
This is really tragic compared to the other posts, but it's all I have, so in it goes...
Had an excellent roped session at the wall this morning for the first time in years... Last couple of trips have been well demoralising, topping out at about 6a+. But today I felt the flow state for the first time in ages, and really really enjoyed it. "Did" a few 6cs, including nearly flashing one of the overhangs. Just the feeling I had moving around, trying the sequence, down climbing to try again and eventually getting the move was great. I wasn't quite on max commitment when I fell, which was a shame, but more than made up for by the feeling of total relaxation. Just so satisfying to be able to chill trying the moves and then take a biggish lob without even giving a thought to it.
Got a big fat gut these days, and never been good at overhangs, but I had this confidence and relaxed technique that I've not had for years. Yay !
Maybe I should try to persuade the family to do Kalymnos at October HT after all.....
I've found that the secret to being able to consistently enjoy my climbing is to accept it's not going to be awesome and I won't be pushing the grades out on every session/trip (cause being awesome 2 or 3 times a week is hard work and not very likely).
I just like to do a lot of climbing, rubbish or not. Which means I have a big enough base that when I do need it, I've got it!
’ve found that the secret to being able to consistently enjoy my climbing is to accept it’s not going to be awesome and I won’t be pushing the grades out on every session/trip (cause being awesome 2 or 3 times a week is hard work and not very likely).
I spent years thinking I should always be performing at my top level and constantly threw myself at routes of that grade. Sometimes I did them, sometimes I did them but didn't really enjoy the experience and sometimes I failed then beat myself up about it. Nowadays I go out with cruising in mind and only try harder stuff if I'm really motivated. Much more enjoyable!
Wise words Spin. I obsessed about doing 7a almost every trip I went on. In the end the first one I did was a relaxed trip somehere we didn't even had a guidebook. Only found out years later.
Anyway QQ..... If one was going to extend a crazy weekend trip from Manchester to the gorms next weekend by doing the Toridon lollipop, is there a good sport climbing crag somewhere between Aviemore and Achnaschellach that you could recommend for a rest day. 5-7a mainly nearer 6a.
Was thinking of Moy rock, but if there does exist any Torri sandstone peppered with bolts then that would be da bomb...
.
I spent years thinking I should always be performing at my top level and constantly threw myself at routes of that grade.
Climbing's weird in that everyone (including me) kind of expects to be able to hit a PB every single session. It's also pretty much pass/fail so not hitting that PB can mean total 'failure'. You've almost got to work at finding things to enjoy. It took me a few years to figure that out but climbing's so much more fun now I have.
Let’s talk local training/quick hit crags. The wee places you go for a quick burn that you have grown fond of but would never recommend to visitors.
@thegeneralist - does it have to be sport climbing? The bouldering in Torridon is ace.
Ooh, I do quite well on this one! I've got the Matlock quarries a couple of minutes' walk from the door. Wouldn't want to inflict them on anyone else but they are fun (if you shut your eyes).
is there a good sport climbing crag somewhere between Aviemore and Achnaschellach that you could recommend for a rest day. 5-7a mainly nearer 6a.
Have a look at An Teanga and Fideal Crag. Have you climbed at Moy? It's right on your way and there are some great routes but it's not everyone's cup of tea.
Looks like I've got a week free to go climbing towards the end of October. Most likely Yorkshire if the weather plays ball.
Climbing’s weird in that everyone (including me) kind of expects to be able to hit a PB every single session. It’s also pretty much pass/fail so not hitting that PB can mean total ‘failure’.
Back when I was going regularly, we settled into a routine of acceptance where some days you're killing it, others you kinda CBA and everything you touch goes sideways.
One of the last really good days I had, I was feeling all proud of myself. Swung my pack over my shoulder, turned to leave, stood half-on half-off the crash mat and went down like a sack of shit with my kneecap taking the full impact. One of my best climbing days in years and I couldn't walk properly for weeks afterwards because I'd fallen off the ****ing floor.
@aldo56 we were on Crowberry Ridge last week, what conditions! For rope practice (and maybe a bit of confidence) we pitched it and it turned into a ridiculously overlong 11 hour car-to-car, but we were in no rush and spent a good while staring at the setting sun down Glencoe.
I'm going to be weird here and say that I never got anything out of doing routes I could easily manage, instead I spent my time trying things too hard for me or at my limit; failure was the common outcome but when I did suceed the achievement buzz was beyond measure and I would dine off that feeling until the next successful ascent.
When my climbing standard started to drop (getting old and not prepared to compensate by training more) I just gave up climbing as I got nothing out of doing routes at a lower level.
Everyone's different. I did the same with running
When my climbing standard started to drop (getting old and not prepared to compensate by training more) I just gave up climbing as I got nothing out of doing routes at a lower level.
You were operating at a pretty high standard whereas I've never been anything but a keen punter so it's not surprising we get/got different stuff out of it and had different motivations.
I never got anything out of doing routes I could easily manage, instead I spent my time trying things too hard for me or at my limit; failure was the common outcome but when I did suceed the achievement buzz was beyond measure and I would dine off that feeling until the next successful ascent.
I mainly boulder these days but I know what you mean. I absolutely love projecting hard stuff, maybe working out one move a sesssion, figuring out all the little subtlties, the psychological stuff and so on. When you eventually get up a project that's taken ages you never forget it.
But I also love just going out and doing easy circuits. I can happily spend an entire day doing stuff way below my limit, just running round and enjoying the rock and the moves and being outside and just generally messing about. Not memorable in the same way as projecting but it makes me grin.
Jimmy - it really was a perfect day for it - felt like there was no rush at all. Was that Crowberry Ridge indirect you were on? Recommended?
does it have to be sport climbing? The bouldering in Torridon is ace
Hmmm. I'm very much a circuit boulderer rather than projects, so need loads of easy stuff to get in the zone, then gradually build it up from there. So I love Brimham, and 'bleau, but never really got much from other places, Torridon included. I think a few routes would work better.
Have you climbed at Moy? It’s right on your way and there are some great routes but it’s not everyone’s cup of tea.
Mmm. TBH I'm not expecting amazing lines etc. for most UK crags there's usually a damn good reason why it was never developed pre-sport era. So I'm not expecting much. I only rope climb maybe 5 days in a year, so don't have the confidence to be doing big serious trad on HellsLum or anything. Just want to get som e mileage in. If you know something with mellow non serious Sev to HVS then tell me that..
Looks like I’ve got a week free to go climbing towards the end of October. Most likely Yorkshire if the weather plays ball.
Shout if you fancy meeting up in the Peak for a day.
Come to think of it, a trip to Almscliffev for a bit of GW and OHG would equally be amazing.... Been a long time.
If you know something with mellow non serious Sev to HVS then tell me that..
Huntley's Cave, closer to Aviemore.
If it's good over in Torridon then there are a few options. Stone Valley has lots of decent routes in that bracket.
Huntley’s Cave, closer to Aviemore
I tried a search, but all that comes up on UKC are loads of pictures of the Gunks 🙂
It's just north of Granton on Spey, you'll find it on the "find a crag" map.
@aldo56 - it was the indirect route, aye. Yeah I'd recommend it - would like to solo it for the experience as it's fairly exposed climbing out of the gully onto the ridge proper. Would also like to do the Direct route.
Has an STW climbing meet been suggested? I'm really keen to do more climbing but struggle for partners who want to climb beyond Diff grades - not that I'm looking to push grades, but up to HVS kinda territory would be great.
Where you based Jimmy?
I'm in Manchester
Back to this weekend. Any views on the Nose of Sgurr s Choereachan ( sp,)
(Would be a group of three)
Edinburgh.
My other issue is time and planning, but given notice it's usually fine.
Looks good @jimmy, I'm Edinburgh based but not doing much climbing these days, I've started bouldering again with my Nephew at Eden Rock.
I was always happy cruising and enjoying the movement outside (up to about HVS) but inside pushing it.
Back to this weekend. Any views on the Nose of Sgurr s Choereachan ( sp,)
(Would be a group of three)
It's superb and highly scenic. All pretty steady and reasonable pro. Could be busy (by Scottish standards) if the weather is good. There's still a lot of ground to cover up the ridge after the Severe bit including some sections some might want to pitch.
I'm pretty sure I saw a photo of sunset and a barbecue on Sgurr na Ciche in one of the other threads, so assume he did The Nose or a parallel route. (Not really stalking, as such)
Ey up.
Great weekend. Did Cairngorm/MacDui on Thursday.
Friday we did Sword of Gideon from Beallach na Ba.
Couldn't do the nose as we only had about 3 hours.
Awesome camp on the pass.
Then Torridon Lollipop,
with another late finish
Supposed to do Seanna a Mhallaen(sp) on Sunday but with an eight hour drive on the cards I decided Moy would be more sensible.
Really enjoyed it. Lead 5 routes, which is ok as a three. Tried a lovely 6b+ up the middle of one of the walls. Lovely. Took a few big lobs trying to get the chain.
Anyway, excellent weekend. Not quite as hectic as my weekends used to be, but damn good.
Also quite special as my son is now almost the same age as I was last time I attempted Sword of Gideon 30 years ago. Really great to share these adventures with him.
Nice one. How good is Sword of Gideon?
Not changed very much in 32 years, judging by my old photo...
I recall it being steep, exposed and juggy. Brilliant.
https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/6490190
I always had it in my head that I'd like to solo SoG because Patey soloed the FA. Turned up one day with a bunch of mates who were pitching it and just went for it, perhaps slightly emboldened by the fact that they could always rescue me if I bottled it. I obviously had the good head on because I came back down and soloed the direct start. That sort of stuff seems a long way away now!
35deg garden board from when we just built it in June. Now has plenty of wood holds on, some new, some used from a friend and some I made. Also lots more small screw-ons for feet to keep feet off the woods. Some resin slopers added too.
Board is 2.5 full size ply boards + small kickboard on a treated softwood frame. 3 full boards was just too tall for the location, but 2.5 still gives enough board space.
Nice. How practical is that being outdoors? I'm probably a bit further north than you but I know there would be plenty of nights in the winter I wouldn't fancy doing an outside session.
The board is weatherproofed on the back and there's a drip on the top edge so water doesn't run/track onto the climbing face, so it's always dry. But the landing /mat area will get wet. So dry days only really. Faces W so evening sun.
No space indoors, so only option was the garden. An indoor board would be amazing though. Son is asking for a campus board too, so might have to rebuild the pull up bar bit to the R to have a campus board.
You look you have some good height there for your indoor set up . Looks good.
Yeah, it works for me. It's been through a few incarnations. Although I probably had the room for a proper board I didn't think it would have worked much better other than being less boring to train on. I now just take the laptop out and watch something between sets so it's not too soul crushing!
I'm likely to be floating around the North York Moors mon-wed or Thursday if anyone is about. Seems to be the only place with a decent looking forecast!
Got a rack and ropes but most likely to be soloing/bouldering.
I finally got my boys along to Eden rock. Eldest is pretty timid about trying new things but once he got into it he was flying, never stopped ran from problem to problem. Must have ticked off all the 1 grades in the front room about 5 times? his wee pal has been to clip and climb at ratho a few times so that's our next trip. Youngest tried but he's only 3 1/2 so didn't really get it. He liked climbing the dinosaur holds but that soon lost it's appeal, he did get to practice recognising his numbers though.
My nephew is facing his fear of heights and trying routes as well so all is good there.
Is that Eden Rock Edinburgh? I ended up there on Wednesday as it was too wet even to think about riding in the Borders!
Yeah. Just along the road.
We did Glentress on the Tuesday, eden rock on Thursday. Youngest loves the green loop.
Sounds like we crossed paths! We did GT Thursday.
Was in the Lakes last week, took my daughter on her first "multi-pitch" - The Bell, a grade 1 scramble. She loved it, which is encouraging.
Was also speaking with a guy in the Climbers Shop who brought my attention to Centurion on Ben Nevis, which I think is now my target for 2025 (anyone?).
Was also speaking with a guy in the Climbers Shop who brought my attention to Centurion on Ben Nevis, which I think is now my target for 2025 (anyone?)
It's an excellent route. Let me know if you've got a weekend but are short a partner, it's only about an hour and a half drive for me.
Great stuff Jimmy. Scrambling with our kids was the standout awesome adventure from when they were young. We nearly always did Whitsun week in the lakes and did some utterly amazing gyl scrambles. The kids weren't into actual rock climbing but the combination of swimming, jumping and climbing was perfect.
Wetsuit, buoyo, helmet and harness ....
The Esk Gorge must be one of the best scrambles of its type in the world. A kilometre or two of pools, traverses, falls, swims, jumps etc with everything apart from the last fall soloable. Really is outstanding.
Church Ghyll in Coniston is also good, but harder and colder.
Junior on his first via ferrata on Triglav, Slovenia. The Chickenman high on Carn Dearg essentially reversing a section of Bullroarer as part of a harder route. Carn Dearg is fantastic, get an early start on the routes to catch the sun.
@thegeneralist that sounds like the dream! I think we'll get there with Ghyll scrambling but have a water-fearing worrisome mum to contend with too.
@spin if you fancy it I can put a date on it soon, just need to work around soon to be confirmed cub camp date.
As a self confessed weirdo, can I say how much I relate to that piece of writing above, written by one of Scotland's most famous climbing weirdos Robin Smith and featuring Dougal Haston, very much his match in this capacity:)
Funny, the same guy who brought Centurion to my attention also talked about The Bat. Need to check that out.
Most folk reckon Torro is the route to go for there at E2 as the climbing is consistantly of a higher quality than The Bat although it doesn't climb any eye catching features in the way The Bat does. if you want top notch Robin Smith then head to the Coe for Big Top, Yo-Yo, Shiboleth or the Gorms for Needle.
I was a bit underwhelmed by Torro but it was wet when I did it.