We've got a hillwalking one, and a winter climbing one and a paddling one so why not? We all need something to do when it's too dry and sunny to ride your bike. 😉
Share what you've been up to, post old pics, post new pics, ask advice, have general rock climbing chat etc etc...
Excellent
To get the ball going, we went to Cummingston yesterday, as did pretty much everybody else. Surprisingly crisp conditions, a bit of bouldering, a bit of soloing and even put the rope on for a couple of routes. Great to be moving on rock in the sunshine again. Off to Reiff today.
Pic of Flakey Wall featuring some comedy spotting.
And a few from last year. Not a classic season for me due to a stupid injury early on but got some nice stuff done.
One of the finest boulder problems anywhere, Poetry in Motion at Rylstone.
Stack of Old Wick summit selfie. An excellent wee adventure.
Little Star, The Balcony.
Wallace and Christie, A Grand Day Out. I strongly recommend this, it does exactly what it says on the tin.
Fallout Corner.
P2 of Pale Diedre. An outstanding pitch.
We've got back into it in recent years, after many years off. Generally we've all decided we are happy sticking to easy grades now we're all a bit senior. Couple of weeks ago we returned to Woodhouse Scar and repeated what probably is the easiest VS on Yorkshire gritstone - twin cracks VS 4c. We then got cold so went to the indoor bouldering wall at Huddersfield.
I want to get back in to climbing properly so hoping to spend more time climbing on Portland this year. That is if it ever stops raining!
Bouldering after work today I think as it'll be rain on/off the next few days. Need to decide between close to home/wet at base or further away (1/2 hour) and probably dry grass base
I really should get back in to it. In my teens and early twenties I climbed a LOT, like four or five times a week with weekend trips to the Lakes, Dales and stuff. I realise I’ll never push the grades like I used to but there’s something about putting a sequence together on a boulder problem or on a route.
Grit is one of the things I miss about the UK. I thought I'd climb more whe I moved to bigger mountains but all but stopped apart from occasional bouldering. I've reached an age where I can still get up things thanks to good technique but don't dare pull too hard for fear of injuring something. I enjoyed a trip to Berlin, some excellent and huge bouldering halls.
I'm technically a trad climber first and foremost I guess. Weather means that I've not been out since October FFS. Still climb indoors. I've not been climbing outdoors for all that long, so still working through the grades somewhat. Was solid at VS last year, E1 is the goal really.
I'm in Congleton, have a full rack, rope and am often up for a weekend climb if anyone ever needs a partner.
I really should get back in to it.
Username checks out.
When I was at my, ahem, peak I was climbing a minimum of three times a week before life got in the way, though mostly indoors. I miss it.
Yet another hobby I've had hijacked by the kids.
The stuff my 5 year old can get up is insane, but taking him means i can't climb or he'll just start climbing random bits by himself. It dies help he can get his foot pretty much to his shoulder.
was climbing a minimum of three times a week before life got in the way,
This is one of the main reasons people drift out of it I think, especially if you have kids. It's easy and feels worthwhile to go for an hour or two on the bike or running but climbing is half day as a minimum really and more usually a full day.
Yeah, I am in the kids/drift out camp....but now drifting back in. Even when the kids were young we always did some weeks here and there, bouldering or easy trad routes. Now my eldest is quite keen and boulders up to about v5/6 or so indoors. We usually do a font trip per year, various grit weekends here and there. I have just dug out my sport rack, replaced the dogbones and going to hit some sport with my son as he's keen to get on some steep sport routes soon. Probably will start at Swanage/Portland for sun/sea and sport.
I do hanker a bit after the old days of climbing all the time (sport, trad, bouldering, long road-trips etc), but have to accept that isn't going to happen much, but to enjoy whatever I can get.
One of my old climbing mates is now very ill. But last year I had a great moment when I took my son, and my mates 2 kids and we all repeated my mate's route on the grit that he put up 23years ago. My mate and I also have a project that we never finished. I think that one is for the kids now, once they are all a bit stronger, and if they are keen for something a little stupid.
This is one of the main reasons people drift out of it I think, especially if you have kids.
For me really it was geography. Working together, it's easy to pop to a wall after work. When you no longer share a workplace and live in opposite directions it suddenly involves things like "planning." I am an Olympic-grade fixer of things when shit goes sideways but the P-Word is anathema to me, I can't do it.
Ex mid grade at best gritstone trad here. Now seem to have started going to the bouldering gym (oh yes, gym not wall) maybe once a week. Which is not enough to improve (unlike my mtb mates who go more often and can now burn me off). Flailing about on Depot reds... It was fear and endless faff with gear that ended it for me over a decade ago. I keep talking about getting into more easy big multipitch, but if not now when?
It was fear and endless faff with gear that ended it for me
You need to join the clipstick revolution! I can't be arsed with all the faff either. I just want to climb and clip the bolts these days*. I am lucky enough to have all the South Wales sandstone within easy reach, plus of course Cheddar 😰.
*I'm just waiting for the all the old gits to shuffle off so we can bolt up some of the once popular, but now neglected crags. DO NOT mention this on UKC.
DO NOT mention this on UKC.
Old git here - definitely mention it and let the dislikes rain down 🙂
I've dales lime half an hour or so up the road but it's not brilliant at the grades where I operate. That said I have heard a bit of huffing and puffing about retrobolting so maybe there's a bit more to go at since the last time I was out,
Doing indoor bouldering once a week, would do more but that's all I get a chance to do as it's in Glasgow. I am improving so that's something and it's not hard to fling my shoes in a bag if I'm away on a trip, there are handy walls in Cheltenham and Gloucester for when I visit the main office.
Flailing about on Depot reds…
Which Depot? If it's the Pudsey one you can watch me flailing about on reds too.
I'm in a similar position, drifted away from outdoor trad because of kids etc. Now have a sack of gear which is no longer fit to climb on, haven't even got a functional harness.
Looked up the price of cams the other day and nearly had a heart attack. Would probably cost the best part of 2K to build up a similar rack to what I was using.
Anyway, to remind me of bitd and inspiration to get back on it, here's a pic from the Diamond on Lundy. I had just had a great time onsighting Diamond Life to the L, then my mate pulled a blinder and onsighted Watching The Ocean. That's the 2nd pitch in the photo. I then went and snapped a foothold and fell off Widespread Ocean of Fear (to the R) a day or so later...gutted, but hey, can't knock good days out on a stunning bit of rock. I am realistic and know that trad at that level isn't coming back, but some easier stuff and fun sport and bouldering is what I am going to try and get done now.
Excellent thread!
I got into indoor roped climbing in early 2000s, used to go The Castle in London. Got to 6b/6c level. Did a few 7a as well. Then I moved up North and family got in the way.
Last year my daughter and I went to the Depot in Manchester for a look see, and apart from a finger injury and Xmas getting in the way, have barely stopped. She’s doing lots of reds now (V5) and starting the purples. I’m on blacks and pinks (V3-5). I could use dropping about 10 kilos in weight!
We’re planning on bouldering outdoors in the summer. Any advice on good Dark Peak locations with decent mid-level problems would be welcome!
Also, any advice for more aged people on a) training and b) recovery would be great 👍
Which Depot? If it’s the Pudsey one you can watch me flailing about on reds too.
I’m in a similar position, drifted away from outdoor trad because of kids etc. Now have a sack of gear which is no longer fit to climb on, haven’t even got a functional harness.
Looked up the price of cams the other day and nearly had a heart attack. Would probably cost the best part of 2K to build up a similar rack to what I was using.
Aren't there firms that can re string/spring old cams? I thought the metal bits of a rack should still be okay. I really should check.
And no sooner said, I've still got a MOAC somewhere and jesus christ! https://vintageclimbing.com/products/moac-first-generation 149 euros?
And yeah, usually Armley or Pudsey depending on who's driving. (Still advised not to drive after a head injury in Nov. Impressively dented helmet. Am fine but suspect insurance would say otherwise). Loads I can't do. Armley reds are harder but I like the setup and I really like the much more inclusive feel there is these days. Even for old gits. .
"I’ve dales lime half an hour or so up the road but it’s not brilliant at the grades where I operate. That said I have heard a bit of huffing and puffing about retrobolting so maybe there’s a bit more to go at since the last time I was out,"
I'm assuming you mean easy stuff. Trollers Gill has recently had some new easy routes bolted. Basically immediately on the right as you walk in.
you assume correctly (Ilkley) though also meant stuff round Settle. Last time I climbed at troller's was scrappy then newly bolted routes at the top. Not v inspiring and midgey af. Kalymnos it ain't...
Any advice on good Dark Peak locations with decent mid-level problems would be welcome!
Burbage valley is a good start, with easier stuff on the South boulders, more variety at Burbage North and West for harder.
But it's often busy. So a nice alternative circuit away( ish) from the crowds is Owler Tor.
For max crowds/scene then Stanage Plantation.
Curbar has stuff for everyone too, so also good. Shortest walk in of all of them to the first boulder which was handy recently as one of our party was on crutches.
"We’re planning on bouldering outdoors in the summer. Any advice on good Dark Peak locations with decent mid-level problems would be welcome!"
The obvious answer is start with burbage north
Edit: just seen Yaks post, i might mean burbage south. Anyway I'm sure you can work it out.
I used to doss around on the Eastern Edges and Welsh multi-pitches and grade 3 scrambles. I never really got beyond the classic peak VSes though (a common glass ceiling) but my highlight was Dream of White Horses so no complaints - I remember it like it was yesterday.
Now seen chasing the kids around Sheffield Depot.
I'm going to Onyx climbing wall in Blackburn tonight. This will be only my second trip to a climbing wall in the last 4 years or so. I'm going to cry like a baby tomorrow on the ride into work tomorrow...
Not too far wide of the mark @Cougar. When climbing well I was about 9st 6, now I’m pushing 12st (5ft 9in for reference). I often think it’d be great to go back to some hard stuff but there’s no way my nearly 50 year old body could cope with pulling on crimps like I used to. It also helped that back in the day I climbed with some properly talented climbers (John Dunne, Ian Vincent and Steve Rhodes amongst other) so was always pushing myself to keep up.
Anyway, still no excuses so will dust off the boots this summer and get out and enjoy it.
Took 3 boulders to blow through my skin today - coming off the back of a comp on Saturday though and very little outdoor climbing because of the endless pissing rain
... For more mature climbers who do Facebook - the Grey Power group is worth a look. Pretty much the only reason I Facebook now
Firstly, does anyone know where the posting bar has disappeared to? Or is it that I use Google in white with black background?
I was a far better trad climber than I had any right to be (as a weakling) climbing almost exclusively in Scotland, I enjoyed French/Spanish sport but found the homegrown stuff a bit meh. I hate walls and bouldering which is probably why my climbing fizzled out about fifteen years ago as there was nowhere to climb stuff I'd not done without driving two hours plus.
Steve Rhodes
He was one of the original trail builders at Stainburn, nice bloke.
Also just heard yesterday that John Dunne has sold the indoor wall at Harrogate, that might be old news of course. That's our usual go to wall.
Spent a few youthful years focused on Stoney Middleton but you rarely see anyone climb there now. Had a few trips to Sennen Cove which was a joy.
Sorted pics problem by logging out/in. Run of the Arrow, Cairngorms in 1988. This guy climbed it right after me so got pics from the ab back down. Route got upgraded to E6 a couple of years later.
In Sennen Cove right now @BillMC, definitely not climbing weather! Been raining on and off for the last two days, strong winds and heavy seas. Have done very little on granite actually, spent most of my time on grit and lime. I do like that different rock requires different climbing styles (slate, here’s looking at you). Limestone or quarried grit was definitely my preferred environment.
Looking mega there @Spin I really miss my Finales that we're that colour! Had the orange ones for a few years, and they just don't look quite as good. I think that they're just about dead though now, they were hopeless indoors today, feet would stay on anything in them.
Maybe an stw day at a crag is in order over them warmer months?
Edit: Very impressive the level at which some folks on here have/still climb!
Tuboflard, have a scramble down to the platform. You can have a little traverse around under Demo Route and solo back up Staircase. The grip on that rock is impressive. Seen seals there a few times plus occasionally the blowhole works, quite spectacular getting kin drenched mid route. I hope the beer's improved in the Old Success.
Very impressive the level at which some folks on here have/still climb!
Indeed. The pics and reputations of both The Diamond and Sron Ulladale are making me wibbly, although I very much enjoyed soloing the Devil's Slide on one occasion. Spin's photo of Fallout Corner looks like my sort of grade these days 😆
"infamous first pitch of The Scoop on Harris shortly before I got my arse kicked on it."
Chicken man's photos are at risk of having the same effect as Spin's on the ice thread 🤩
We are in the presence of greatness!
Blimey. Makes me feel utterly inadequate. Which is nothing new TBH.
Talking of being in the presence of greatness, I thought I was pretty handy back in the day (Font 7c, F8a) but got shown my arse by Ian V and John Dunne many a time. Watching JD solo Wellington Crack at Ilkley as a warm up completely blew my mind as an exercise is controlled climbing. And Ian doing laps on the likes of Raindogs and putting a rope on Austrian Oak and Magnetic Fields for me at Malham was incredible to watch.
I’m sat looking at the Old Success Inn now @BillMC, we’re booked in for dinner on Thursday so I’m hoping the same.
My 90’s hard rock fu was lacking there. Er yeah The Scoop on Sron Uladail.. jeezlouise!!!
But what did Chickenman ever do on Stanage? 🤪🤣
My bouldering claim to fame is Shauna Coxsey asked me to try out some problems she set on the Olympic wall in the Sheffield Hanger. They were dead easy but through nerves of being watched I fumbled an early move so she made it even easier. I was more than a bit embarrassed.
Also big Ron (Ron Fawcett) talked me through my first wasp at the Works.
Used to boulder loads but lost my nerve after falling off Stanage and it's taken about two years to get back into it bit I've lost all my strength.
I used to climb more than I currently do, in fact I worked in the industry for 25 years and had the pleasure over the years of working with and climbing with various amazing people. Probably my biggest name drop / claim to fame was a trip to Kalymnos with JB Tribout, Fred Nicole and Chris Sharma, and I even make a (brief, non-climbing) appearance in the Chris Sharma film "King Lines". Unfortunately I don't possess even a fraction of their talent, they're amazing to watch though.
Went to Onyx climbing wall, Blackburn for a couple of hours last night as mentioned. I'm waaay out of practice so my arm muscles are letting me know about it this morning. It's a nice, friendly little place so I'd recommend it to any locals. https://www.onyxclimbing.co.uk/
I did a few 4's and 5's and then a 6A with a scary mantle before it rained. Good enough for me, happy with that.
The Rainbow is very impressive and scary. I did the E2/3 to the L back in the day , and tried Poetry Pink , which is the cleaner line in the photo, I got beyond the second bolt (they're a long way up) but my mind gave up round about the rainbow.
Another Depot climber here. Either Armley, but more recently Big Depo as a mtb friend has time once a week to climb round the kids, and we both prefer not falling off bouldering walls. Did a 6a+ last night which I am chuffed with (my pb in 22 years of on-and-off climbing is a 6b).
Timely thread - I used to climb a lot in my 20s up to about E1. My full group of friends chucked it when our mate fell off an E2 in the Lakes and snapped his leg into many bits. Horrible experience!
Been getting back into bouldering the past year at TCA in Glasgow and been really enjoying it again. It's funny how the movement comes back to you after 10 years. I have even bought a pad so hoping to get some outdoor stuff done whenever the rain stops...
I'm still at the stage of life that many on the thread are reminiscing over. I get outside for trad with a club 2 evenings a week and as many weekends as possible. This summer I'm hoping to establish myself properly as a HVS climber (mainly needing to improve at assessing and trusting gear). Next winter I'd like to train in a more focussed manner with a goal of getting towards onsighting 7a whilst I still have the free time required for that
Edit - that said it's not just about performance for me. I'm probably most excited this summer about getting out on some of the classic lakes vDiffs with my partner
Onsight 7a was always my general performance goal bitd. Onsight 7a meant enough fitness for me for about (obvs variable!) E4s with a small margin. Also enough fitness for dws up to 6c. I had to make sure I was consistently onsighting 7a on rock to then solo Freeborn Man with a grade in hand. I didn't fancy the splashdown from the crux at the top!
So hope you get to 7a onsight!
@rsl1 could've written that myself!
I would've ticked HVS and probably E1 last summer if it wasn't for the fact that I was getting married!
7a insight was a way off mind! Still is! 6b+ is something of a ceiling that I need to break.
I dont climb. But i do chat to Steve McClure and Neil Gresham quite often. Both absolute gents and Neil has the enthusiasm of a 10 year old kid having eaten 10 x packets of haribo.
This thread is basically me taking on the occasional trail centre black feature talking to folks who've completed in red bull rampage...
Nice to see folk posting.
I'm looking to head off somewhere Thursday to Sunday but the weather is looking pretty poor. Might end up North York Moors way.
Anyone else got climbing plans for this week?
Usual weekly indoor session with my regular climbing partner tomorrow evening. I am itching to get back on some trad though!
Controlled Burning?
Bowden Doors
SRD?
Devils Slide/ Satan's Slip
Love DWS. Been a while since I've done any. Who fancies a trip to Malle?
https://flic.kr/p/2111BGo
If you want a good 7a DWS then....
https://flic.kr/p/CYHvaf
Controlled Burning?
Bowden Doors
SRD?
Devils Slide/ Satan’s Slip
Pretty good.
CB fell down about a month after that photo. The FA account in Extreme Rock talks of a hand crack above the roof, I had my whole arm in it.
Bowden yes, x2.
Good guess on SRD but it's not.
And yes, Devil's Slide. My mate had been to Lundy before and he said to put chalk bag and shoes in hand luggage then run along the island to do that while the boat was being unloaded then whatever else happened with the weather then at least you'd done it!
I recognise Lundy (not that I've done it) and the fifth one down, but can't remember the route name ffs
fifth one down, but can’t remember the route name ffs
Main Wall at Bowden Doors.
Second pic minus one buttress on the Ben superb route!
Second pic minus one buttress on the Ben superb route!
Correct on both counts. 😄
Spin's pics:
2nd one -1 Buttress on the Ben?
6th one Freak Out in the Coe?
7th one Brutally Handsome at Bowden?
8th one, it looks familiar...
2nd one -1 Buttress on the Ben?
6th one Freak Out in the Coe?
7th one Brutally Handsome at Bowden?
8th one, it looks familiar…
Yes
Yes
Yes
Blundecral on Meadow Face, Arran.
. An S shaped crack on Arran, that isn't the S pitch!
This thread is making me sad. Haven't climbed since the Queen's Jubilee where I fell off at millstone, fractured my spine and wrist and got carted off by Edale MR. Want to get back to it, but can't, took up MTB instead as it safer...
took up MTB instead as it safer…
Really?
So far...
I did buy the guide book just for the description and pictures of the scoop when it came out.
Hi all, this is timely, someone may be able to help advise me...
Long story short, I climbed years ago before our daughter was born, then stopped. FFWD ~30 years, have now been going to climbing walls with her for a couple of years, as she was keen to try it.
I used to lead climb at Swanage a lot, and would like to try some easy lead stuff with her. Looking on RockFax, the lower ledges at Dancing Ledge appear to offer some easy grade lead climbs, in a not too threatening environment. (ie, not Boulder Ruckle). Any suggestions of other areas offering easy access low grade climbing appreciated.
Would this seem to be a reasonable proposition to people, or am I being stupid and going to die? Rose tinted glasses and all that.
I am painfully aware of the dangers of climbing - a friend of ours suffered serious head injuries in the Peak District after taking a dive off a climb.
Cheers.
Seriously excited. Off to Stanage this afternoon.
My first and probably only big wall aid route. Too much faff and too far away for me now.
