Suggestions wanted ...
 

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Suggestions wanted - appliances with too-short mains cables

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Started shifting stuff around in the kitchen last night to implement Mrs Tyred's Great New Vision and came up against a combination of too-short appliance cables and inconveniently-placed sockets.

Made me wonder, my usual approach is to either introduce a gang extension lead or to add some length to the cable by removing the plug and joining a length of cable using a connector strip.

Both are unsatisfying!

One socket is low down on a plasterboard stud wall, behind a cabinet, so I might be bold and move that one a metre or so up the wall, but what else could I do to solve this issue in places where moving a socket would be way too much hassle?

Am I missing something obvious?

Some appliances have stupidly short cables these days - not everyone's house has a million sockets!


 
Posted : 04/12/2024 3:00 pm
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Are we talking big stuff? Sounds like big suff. I remember seeing a government advisory video which recommended using multiple socket extensions and add ons from a single socket- you could try that.


 
Posted : 04/12/2024 3:09 pm
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Posted : 04/12/2024 3:10 pm
scotroutes, soundninjauk, GlennQuagmire and 5 people reacted
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Am I missing something obvious?

Mrs Tyred’s Great New Vision

New patio?


 
Posted : 04/12/2024 3:15 pm
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Move house?


 
Posted : 04/12/2024 3:16 pm
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a combination of too-short appliance cables and inconveniently-placed sockets.

Charging infrastructure has always a problem with electric appliances. Was never an issue with the old fashioned petrol-powered washing machines and toasters.


 
Posted : 04/12/2024 3:26 pm
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joining a length of cable using a connector strip.

ermmmm

No?

At least use waterproof connection boxes in the kitchen.

The reason they're short is IIRC the max they're allowed to be is 2m? You also run the risk if you make them too long that if there was a short circuit fault or a fault between live and earth in the machine, the resistance of the flex might be high enough that  the current is insufficient to blow the fuse.  If you PAT test them there are tables to lookup which tell you the maximum resistance allowed.  Useful because I must have made / remade hundreds of power leads in my old job and the PAT testing box was a bit more rigorous than just using a socket tester or testing for continuity.


 
Posted : 04/12/2024 3:26 pm
gecko76 and gecko76 reacted
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the cable by removing the plug and joining a length of cable using a connector strip.

If it's going to be hidden I'd just use a proper junction box type thing depending on the power draw of the appliance?

Something like this?

https://www.screwfix.com/p/essentials-30a-3-terminal-junction-box-white/5866d

Or maybe something like this which is IP65 rated...

https://www.screwfix.com/p/wago-abox-221-ip65-32a-5-terminal-weatherproof-outdoor-junction-box-110mm-x-110mm-x-67mm/9390g


 
Posted : 04/12/2024 3:28 pm
trail_rat and trail_rat reacted
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not everyone’s house has a million sockets!

It's probably everyone's worst case for where there's a socket shortfall but my house has just one double socket where I've got the TV/home ents stuff in my living room. Over there I've got a TV, soundbar, media streamer/stereo, Xbox, PS, PVR, NAS and a network switch. It's also where I plug in the printer. Consequently one of the sockets is home to a 10-way extension. 

Sorry, this is pretty irrelevant to the OP's issue but the paucity of sockets struck a chord!


 
Posted : 04/12/2024 3:39 pm
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Sorry, should have been more specific - talking counter-top appliances more than white goods, so air fryer/toaster/kettle etc more than dishwasher.

A 1m cable would be more than enough, certainly nothing like 2m. Some of them are only 60cm, just annoyingly slightly too short.

What do I do with a junction box in this situation? (Apart from give it to an electrician and say please fit this)


 
Posted : 04/12/2024 4:01 pm
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What do I do with a junction box?

A junction box is essentially the same thing as a cable connector.. Except it's more robust and impact proof /water proof etc. Depending on what spec box you buy.

I'd use that with proper 32a rated mains cable as if you were making a spur etc. ... As a kettle for example can pull 3kw... Albeit only for a few mins at a time, it's a high power device.


 
Posted : 04/12/2024 4:15 pm
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Take the appliance apart and replace the cable with a longer one???????????


 
Posted : 04/12/2024 4:19 pm
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counter-top appliances

In which case it's probably elfinsafety gorn mayd. Flexes there are intentionally short to reduce the risk of children dragging kettles onto their heads.

If you don't have enough conveniently-placed sockets then what you need there is an electrician to install more conveniently-placed sockets.


 
Posted : 04/12/2024 4:39 pm
steveb and steveb reacted
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^yeah.. But you need to ensure you buy fat/thick enough cable if doing what is essentially the equivalent of an extension.

So just buy 'full fat' 32a mains cable of you are going to do that to ensure that the cable can never realistically overheat.

Don't just butcher the cable from a pound shop 4 gang extension lead.


 
Posted : 04/12/2024 4:48 pm

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