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Time to change the cambelt on the Passat. Last time I didn't change the stud for the idler pulley because I couldnt' remove it. So it needs changing this time.
However it looks like stud extractors come in all sorts of shapes and sizes. Halfords have one that appears to have teeth that grip the stud. Is this the preferred way assuming nothing's broken? Or is there a better type? Stud is quite long and of course it's imperative it must not snap...
I’m fine where I am thanks.
I was hoping to be the first with a witty response, but then I couldn’t think of one and missed my chance.
That type tend to work well, they can leave marks in the thread so best to get it onto the plain shank (if there is one), I find applying gentle pressure by hand, then using a spanner/ratchet to unwind works well, keep pressure on to keep teeth engaged while repositioning your tool..
Have fun.
2 nuts !!
I've always favoured the two nuts technique. Partly because I feel I have more control and am more familiar with when the stud is about to fail.
I'm using an old Britool e92 extractor that came with a socket set. Eccentric knurled wheel locks in hard against the stud. It's never failed but you can't use it on the threaded part if it needs to be re-used. The double nut hack works but not if the stud is properly tight or corroded in.
Tried two nuts last time, didn't work.
How stuck is it likely to be? I'm worried about this part. Shouldn't have been exposed to many elements, the cam belt cover is present and correct. Is it worth doing with the engine warm? Not sure if it's an alloy block. Probably not, being diesel.
2 nuts is more reliable but takes longer. The cheap eccentric ones I have are fast but kind of a pain in the arse as they don't work reliably- sometimes they grip, sometimes they don't.
With two nuts, I suppose you're supposed to undo the rear one? If so, you'd have to put a spanner on it so your torque goes towards bending the stud and possibly snapping it. I was planning to use a t-bar so I can put even torque on both sides, thereby avoiding any bending/snapping moment on the stud.
Three nuts, two spanner’s at 180 deg?
Does it really need to be replaced?
You get one in the box, and the Haynes manual says to, so yes. If it snaps your engine's toast.
Although.. if I screwed the nuts all the way up to the block there'd be no room for it to bend. Hmm. Maybe I'll screw the nuts on first then try the extractor and if that cocks it up I'll have another go with the nuts.
Did you try tapping on the bolt while putting tension on the spanner? I've tried that. I also got a thing in a set of impact sockets that you hit with a hammer and it mimics an impact wrench but more controlled. One of those has usually worked, in combination with penetrating oil if necessary.
If it snaps can't you drill it out and run a tap down the hole?
It’ll be set with a threadlock of some sort, maybe even a retaining compound. Soak it with plusgas now. That might penetrate the sealant. Then I’d go straight for the big guns tomorrow: an eccentric stud extractor like davesport has and heat.
If you file down the flats on the top nut to fit a smaller spanner you could fit a socket over it to engage the bottom nut and use your T handle.
If it snaps can’t you drill it out and run a tap down the hole?
That would be the only option, however it's in the engine block which is in the car. Same reason I can't soak it in anything. Also won't be able to get a hammer in there.
Oh right. One of those engine bays.
Ordered one of these:
Can you get any heat on it?
Update:
The Laser stud removal kit worked perfectly. Studs out and in no bother, although the supplied ratchet spanner isn't that useful. I ended up using the T bar, just twisted the extractor with my fingers to get the rollers in contact then put the T bar on.
Couldn't find torque settings to screw them in, but apparently the idea is to just nip them up gently and let the torque on the final nut take the strain.
Having a good read up though whilst looking for torque settings, it seems that there is a lot of controversy about the studs. Sometimes you get studs in the box, sometimes you don't. Some people suggest never changing the studs, because changing them can stress the threads too much; some suggest changing them every other time along with the rollers.