[Closed] Strips of timber cladding with holes in it

That's a cool image when you scroll down. Nothing more to add I'm afraid.. 😀

In terms of cubic feet or metres, you're probably going to use the same amount. Also, the stuff in your pic would suggest its predominantly clear grain, rather than knotty, which generally commands a premium.

I haven't personally seen one apart from your pic and that looks good, in a contemporary good way.

As for layers, I imagine the membrane is fixed onto counter battens over board and there will be a vapour barrier, insulation to the inner wall boarding.

no expert but that looks likely to hold water rather than shed it unless there is a run on it .

It'd be a good idea to have a fall to the front on all that cladding and a drip on the underside otherwise it'll not last and look awful fairly quickly. I see so many timber class buildings now that haven't been detailed well that look rubbish after only a couple of years.

If it's anything like[url= http://cedarwest.com.au/product/product&product_id=1476 ]This stuff[/url], then it's not gaps as such but dark infills.

Did you decide to go ahead with this?
I'd like to do something similar...

Easy. Black breather membrane on osb. This does the weather proofing. Then vertical treated battens painted black. Then horizontal timbers (ideally screwed) or horizontal counter battens for vertical cladding. Screws or nail sunk so the head is flush (no pockets for rot) or be clever and screw in from the back and panelise.

Western red ceder or larch. Both will weather substantially to silver grey. May go black/mouldy on north elevations. Will weather weirdly if overhangs are too deep above.

Have a readup on https://russwood.co.uk
I used them for a garage wall facing the garden usong Scottish Larch. The guys were excellent and really helpful, even visited their mill by Aviemore which was grand. Of course delivery fees could be prohibitive depending on where you live.

I don't like the fact you can see the membrane.
The main function of the cladding is to protect the membrane as any damage is time-consuming to repair and can lead to problems if damage is unseen.
I would be worried that those large gaps aren't offering enough protection. (walking next to it carrying a bunch of sticks, handlebars of bikes, missiles shot by kids, etc.

I would do it if the gaps are less than 20mm.

Like this (note the slope on the top surface of the strips to shed water too):
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or maybe this:
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Only thing I'd be watching is uv stability of the Membrane. Good quality roofing felt is only good for 90 days if left uncovered. Oh and birds nesting in it...

There is a garden office style timber building near me, always thought it had posh cladding, but recently noticed it is OSB sheet stained slightly darker than natural, and then simple 100x20mm timber strips fixed vertically to it...the sort of treated rough sawn timber you use as gravel boards under a fence panel.

I like the drip rail suggestion, good call aP.

You need to use a breather membrane rather than felt or building paper. There's a tyvek one for rain screens that is specifically for this type of application.

+1 for a UV stable membrane. Not all are. You can also get lots of colours if you hunt around but black is a safe bet.

You ideally want to make sure the cladding is heartwood to minimise rot.

I built my shed/office with waney edge cladding out of European larch. It has the rough edge showing a la Swiss mountain chalet. Doesn't have to be perfect and looks great. If I knew how to attach a picture I would....