[Closed] Stovetop brew kit - Massive Brewery

Looks good value to me for someone wanting to start proper brewing, I spent about £120 building my own plastic 25l kit!

Cheers,
Jamie

I thought that too. Still looks a bit ghetto, but early days and all that.

Think that's more suited to an advanced brewer myself - someone looking to experiment with styles and refine their technique, and doesn't necessarily want to brew 5 gallon batches each time whilst doing so.

Homebrewing has v good economies of scale / effort. It's not going to take much more time or effort to brew 25 L as it would to brew 10 L.

*adds to birthday present list*

Like the look of that a lot.

I probably spent about £70 on my wine making kit. Bucket, demi-johns, barrel, hygrometer, bubble traps etc. Hopefully be a good season for perry pears this year as our 2011 Perry was really very good.

that's pretty good value considering the immersion chiller on its own is about £60.

Garry, that's sort of where he's pitching it. Cheap costs per brew, and not massive amounts, so if you try something and it doesn't quite come together, no biggie.

Pricing seems pretty much bang on for the

birthday present list

That looks FANTASTIC!

That looks spot on - I'm currently using a very similar 10ltr system I built myself and the results are really good - I may be making a purchase as his chiller is far nicer than my homemade one.

I don't do more than 10l as most of my homebrew is high ABV experiments, 10ltrs is great for trying stuff out

I can thoroughly recommend brewing your own beer from grain & hops rather than from kits - modern kits have come on a long way since the likes of John Bull & Geordie - but for me there's still a twang that says "home brew kit".

All Grain doesn't do that, if you drink an all grain beer that has been brewed in someone's kitchen, it can taste as good as, if not better than, anything you can buy in a pub or in a bottle.

looking at his kit, it looks like a Brew In a Bag setup, which works perfectly well for me, so much so that I've never bothered with a mash tun & sparging the grain for my 19-23 litre batches

loads more info about brewing all grain and BIAB on www.jimsbeerkit.co.uk

I bought that boiler you linked up on the last thread John, thks for the recommendation. Made a hop stopper, a wort chiller and got me ma to sew a viole bag - Did my first complete BIAB last week. Can't comment on the quality of the ale yet, but the equipment and process worked flawlessly.

Only thing I'm missing is a good balance. Had to use a very rudimentary set of kitchen scales which were terrible for weighing anything less than 100g.

Completely agree with John_Drummer above - I've had my beers tasted by the like of Oz Clarke (the less said about his review of my wine the better) and he said that home brewers can easily give the big boys a run for their money if this is what they are brewing - if you love beer, brewing it yourself is an excellent way to get exactly what you like.

glad to help Garry; you can pick up a set of digital scales for about a tenner at Argos & the like, which will weigh down to the nearest gram. I think some even go down to .1 of a gram.

I use a software package called BrewMate to help me with my recipes, it's free from www.brewmate.net & there are a load of recipes on the website too.

I have an American IPA and a Porter conditioning in bottles at the moment and I did a BIAB demo at my LHBS on Sunday, which is now fermenting away. An American Amber Ale, 21L at 1057 OG.

I now need to find a nice "session" beer as these American ales are just way too strong. Taste great though

I want this kit. Now.

I want this kit. Now.

+1

all grain brewing just got Aeropressed.

best clear a 12" space in the kitchen 🙂

Feel free to buy one, then! 🙂

Just sent the link to MrsG in the hope she'll take the subtle hint....

Extract:

'afternoon MrsG

As usual, lunch-time browsing of my beloved timethievingtrackworld.com can be dangerous…

If you’re stuck for an idea for Christmas, this would be great (Hint: do not buy me anything else!):> http://www.massivebrewery.com/index.html

MrG
X

I like the idea of calling your wife 'MrsG', especially during special time. Like you're being ever so naughty.

I also *want*. Stupidly simple idea but genius. Been thinking about dabbling but really haven't got space for five gallon paraphernalia.

How will temperature affect it? I live in a single floor flat, prob. never gets colder than about 16º even in winter.

I like the idea of calling your wife 'MrsG', especially during special time. Like you're being ever so naughty.

This evening's line of questioning:

Freddyg: MrsG, Have you been spending "special time" with Samuri?

MrsG: <blushes>

Freddyg: And did you let him call you by your "Special" name?

MrsG: <blushes again> <faint hint of a smile> <misty, far away look in her eyes>

Freddyg: Curses! <runs off to the pub>

ale yeast doesn't mind temperatures above 16. it's when it gets into the high 20s that you can start getting some odd flavours e.g. banana

lager yeast prefers it a bit cooler (10-15), so unless you invest in a brew fridge, you might struggle to brew lager according to the traditional wisdom on the subject.

but having said that, one of the guys at my LHBS brews lager at around 18 & says he never has a problem

this kit is the "what" - for the "how", watch these videos:

followed by:

Bob, worth dropping Steve an email to ask. He's really very driven to get this thing going, so am sure he'll welcome any questions!

(Assuming his hangover from last night's beering has worn off!)

CF, got a few q's brewing (hah!) which I'll fire over to him later.
He could be onto a winner; as someone said above,it's as easy to brew 25l as it is to brew 10, but I haven't got room for all that stuff (the weight of 25l of wort would probably break my cooker), plus I don't really want to drink 40 bottles of the same thing.

That was rather his thinking. Small batch, interesting beers, but still proper beer.

I brew 50L batches and the "brewday" takes about 5 hrs including cleaning up. I guess with this little beastie then you'll be able to knock a couple of hours off that time.

Make sure you have an understanding partner though as you'll be boiling wort (the stuff which becomes beer) for 60-90 mins with hops added. So.....steam and aroma (which is lovely IMO but is a very "marmite" thing) will be present in your kitchen/stove area 🙂

When is the copper chiller used? Is it after the wort has been boiled? I guess this is to get it down to room temp quicker to avoid any nasties beginning to grow in the wort?

If so, would you syphon from the hot wort mix, through the chiller (which is sitting in another bucket of cold water) and out into your fermentation bucket?

Very interested in this!

After the boil is finished, yes. Yeast needs to be pitched at or around ambient temperature, so the received wisdom is the quicker you cool the wort down the better.

No siphoning though - it's just a heat exchanger that you run cold water from the tap through. You dump the chiller in you boil with 15 mins to go. Heat off, wort is then cooled (takes around 30 mins give or take for 5 gallons) and you can transfer it into the fermenter. Yeast in, brew day done.

It's not absolutely essential to chill the wort - I believe 'no chill' methods are popular in places like Australia where water might be more expensive - I think you can just cap the wort and let it cool down of its own accord. Takes hours though.

Great answer - thanks Garry! I think I may take the plunge with the Massive Brewery kit so expect to hear more from me!!

you'll be wanting some recipes next...

http://www.jimsbeerkit.co.uk/forum/viewforum.php?f=5&sid=6b633a755f30d321fc12fa2751132db6

http://www.brewmate.net/recipe

Just ordered one of these, thanks for the heads up Flashy.

Can't wait! 🙂

That looks good. Recently tried an extract brew after doing a fair few kits. Went a bit pear shaped so have gone back to kits. Still keen to move on from kits.

Oh shit. That's done it.

Excellent!

Peterfile, am hoping to have a few beers with Steve when I'm back in the UK. Hope it turns out awesomely for you!

First brew has just been transferred to the fermentation bucket 🙂

A few observations (as a completely new brewer):

Steve is massively helpful with any queries and responds very quickly by email, no matter how silly the question 😳

Even just 6.5l of water takes a long time to heat up on an electric hob - if you've got a combi boiler if might be worth filling the kettle up with that.

My main problem was trying to get the wort back up to boil. It was taking forever (although my stove is useless). I ended up spreading the pot over 2 of the halogen heat thingies and floating a camp kettle inside to reduce the surface area of the boil. This worked and I was able to maintain a rolling boil.

Can't wait to taste it now! Patience was never my strong point though....

as Graham Wheeler puts it in his book (or close enough) - when boiling wort there is no need for control, there is only one speed needed and it is full throttle.

If you think it takes a long time with 6.5 litres - try 30, I despair every time I burn out a kettle element mid brew (always mid-brew) and have to run my boiler with just one - adds another hour to the whole operation I'm sure.

I do 50L batches and my boiler has two 3kW immersion elements in it 🙂

If you're using one of these hob setups on an induction hob then consider insulating the outside of the pot using camping mat or similar (obviously don't do this with a gas hob 😉 ) Should speed up the bringing to boil time and also help with your rolling boil.

I've just pressed the button on a Massive Brewery Stovetop kit thanks to you lot...

YOU'RE A BAD INFLUENCE!

8)

Hints were dropped.
Web pages were left open.
She got it.

Mrs CFH has one of these lined up for me for Christmas. Which is nice. 😀

It'll be your ruin CFH...

I've done about 10 brews with mine and am now looking to upgrade volume to something similar to what allthepies must have...!

😀

A woman once drove me to drink. And I never even had the decency to thank her.

(Not mine, but WC Fields)

Yes! Good man.

I've just bottled my 9th batch (a Russian Imperial Stout with espresso and cacao weighing in at 10%) a couple of weeks ago, all using the massive brewery kit.

Already considering some kit which will allow me to do 25 or 50 litre batches when I find a recipe that turns out really well on the smaller kit (i've had one in particular so far that has been amazing and worthy of a big brew)

It's great having the ability to brew such a wide range of beers every week or two.

🙂

Didn't see this post first time around. Seriously tempted.

I did a brewing course recently with a couple of friends and we have been talking about going in together on all the kit to do big batches and then brewing it up in someone's garden (cos of the steam), splitting it into thirds and taking it away separately to ferment.

However, the small volume of this kit really appeals. I don't actually drink that much and am interested in experimenting with recipes more than anything, which will be more difficult if brewing with mates.

How much steam/stink is given off doing this indoors? We have an open plan kitchen/living room with no external extraction so would be ideal to minimise that. Could potentially invest a couple of hundred quid in an external extractor hood if that would help.

you're boiling a sugar syrup (effectively) with smelly hops (think sprouts*) for a minimum of 1 hour. Before you get to that stage, you're steeping a few kg of malt for a minimum of 1 hour. And then you need to get from 67degC to boiling. Absolute minimum of 2hr15mins of 'aroma' and steam...

* ok the raw hops smell waaaay better than sprouts, but I'm not a fan of their aroma during the boil phase

Beware, i started with 20 litres then 50 then 1500 !

thanks for the reply. The smell wasn't my sole concern (can always get the missus to go shopping for a few hours) moreso the amount of steam given off and condensing on the ceiling, etc. Is that likely to be a problem without proper extraction?

Reading back through this thread it seems the ambient temperature is pretty critical? I'm in central Spain, and I don't have aircon - from April-October the daytime temperature is pretty much guaranteed to be over 20, and in July/August it hits closer to 40.

Is the temperature limitation something that is only critical at the beginning of the process, or does all the fermenting have to be sub 15C (roughly)? How sensitive is the process - if you get a couple of weeks of low temps, but then suddenly have a couple of days of 20C - would that be a problem?

I've never noticed a problem, been brewing BIAB for about 2 years now. Yes there's a fair amount of steam but I run the cooker hood when doing the boil, and I keep a window or two open (the more the merrier in summer!)

I've now switched to a digital electric boiler & built a new [s]brewhouse[/s] shed to use it in - but since I built it, I've only had time to do 2 brews and both of those have been demo brews at my LHBS!

mogrim - ambient temperature is more of a problem during the ferment - lager yeast prefers 15deg or lower, ale yeast can tolerate up to about 25-27 but above that you can start getting odd flavours.
if 20deg is your peak temperature then it'll be fine for ales and for some lager yeasts but not for all lager yeasts; the yeast will say on the pack what temperatures are ideal.
at 20deg an ale will be fermented out in at most 2 weeks. at 15deg a lager will take a bit longer. at 10 degrees you'll need twice as much yeast to start and it will take quite a bit longer...

For brewers in warmer climes, a brewfridge is a good tool. I don't know the full details, but basically any old fridge, with cooling and/or heating inside, thermostatically controlled to a temperature of your choice...

[quote=Clobber said]It'll be your ruin CFH...
I've done about 10 brews with mine and am now looking to upgrade volume to something similar to what allthepies must have...!

😆

A mere 50 litre setup 😉

Two ales ready for the festivities, a malty traditional English ale and a hoppy Citra pale ale. Finished work now until the New Year so the supping starts soon.

Is the temperature limitation something that is only critical at the beginning of the process, or does all the fermenting have to be sub 15C (roughly)? How sensitive is the process - if you get a couple of weeks of low temps, but then suddenly have a couple of days of 20C - would that be a problem?

Very. A stable temperature will do more for your beer than anything else. The best investment a brewer can make is a cheap freezer, a heat pad and a digital controller. Dial in your preferred temp and leave it. Means you can also do stepped fermentation. This is crucial for consistent brews i.e. doing the same beer exactly the same twice or more, not something most home brewers need to do but if you produce then you have to.

Cheers john_drummer and NZCol, although if I need a new (2nd hand) fridge as well the investment has suddenly gone up a bit!

Although playing around with digital controllers and heat pads could be fun 🙂

I aim for just under 20 degC fermentation temperature. Depends on what yeast strain you're using really. Some benefit from higher temperatures but for the ales I brew and the yeast strains I use (Danstar Nottingham or Fermentis Safale S04) then I find about 18degC to be best.

Sub 15 degC and you might find your yeast works slowly or not at all.

unless it's a lager yeast - yes it will take longer but they are more tolerant of lower temperatures

That is some good info. I definitely want to do it properly if I do it at all, so temperature controlled fermentation seems the way to go.

I take it in the UK at this time of year cooling is not a consideration so something like a heat belt around the fermenter (attached to a controller) would be sufficient? My only concern is that having such a heater on a lot would be quite expensive in terms of electricity? Or not really?

depends where you do your fermenting. If it's in one of your living rooms it should be fine. I'm sat in the kitchen/diner with a FV full of porter on the worktop behind me. temp at the moment is about 21deg. More of a concern about keeping the temp [i]down[/i] in summer TBH.

If you really do feel the need to keep it heated, an aquarium heater is the most commonly used option - use a bigger bucket than the FV, drop the FV in, fill the outer bucket with water & then drop the aquarium heater into that. reduced chance of infection.
But I've never felt the need to heat a FV indoors in the UK

You do need to get the wort down to 20ish from boiling, but whether you choose to use an immersion or plate chiller, leave to chill naturally, or simply put the FV in a sink full of ice, is up to you...

Cheap freezer off eBay, heat pad, controller - not a massive investment.

Its not keeping it hot or cold it's about stability of temperature. Fluctuations affect lots of things in your brew. Even splitting a brew and fermeting 1 or 2 degrees different can massively change a beer. I mean, it's not essential but a well controlled fermentation with a good clearing chill before kegging will really improve your beer.

EDIT: oh and in terms of cost your digi controller just cycles the heat pad or freezer compreessor as required. In actual fact as the freezer is well insulated it needs a tiny amount of power.

Thanks guys. I'd definitely want to be able to replicate a beer if I made a nice one so sounds like temp control is key. Unfortunately I just don't have room indoors for a fermenting fridge but I could do it in my workshop.

I also have access to an old fridge as my sister got a new one a few weeks ago and hasn't got rid of the old one yet. NZCol: I notice you keep writing "freezer" not "fridge". Is there a reason for that i.e. is a freezer better for some reason? And heating-wise, do you just get a heat pad, put it at the bottom of the fridge/freezer and stand the FV on it? Good point about the fridge keeping heat in too (insulation works both ways!)

Would there be any issue with brewing up in one location then transporting the FV somewhere else for fermentation?

Would there be any issue with brewing up in one location then transporting the FV somewhere else for fermentation?

I also have access to an old fridge as my sister got a new one a few weeks ago and hasn't got rid of the old one yet. NZCol: I notice you keep writing "freezer" not "fridge". Is there a reason for that i.e. is a freezer better for some reason? And heating-wise, do you just get a heat pad, put it at the bottom of the fridge/freezer and stand the FV on it? Good point about the fridge keeping heat in too (insulation works both ways!)

I use these http://djsbrewingsupply.co.nz/page1.php?view=productPage&product=22&category=5

DOUBLE EDIT: what the man above said. Just do some brewing, a badly made grain beer will still be drinkable unless you have an infection. Do a few, enjoy it then think about the process more

Ok, I'm sold! Ta guys, will order the kit up tomorrow hopefully in time for Xmas!

Noooooooo they are sold out!! 🙁

zilog6128, stick with it! It's a start up, one man band outfit, and I know's he's busier than a long tailed cat in a rocking chair showroom!

They will be a great way to get interested in brewing your own
but beware it gets a bit addictive like biking.

my shed brewery started last xmas when my daughter pought me a kit for youngs bitter ( it was a terrible brew ) which started me on the road to building a three vessel setup

[URL= http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa46/amticoman/Home%20Brew/IMG_25661.jp g" target="_blank">http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa46/amticoman/Home%20Brew/IMG_25661.jp g"/> [/IMG][/URL]

yes is certainly possible to brew and transport the wort for fermenting
my bro did an old Peculiar in my shed and fermented in his workshop 210 miles away .

A money saving tip is see if you can get into a group buy of the base malts with other brewers in your area for instance Fawcetts Marris Otter 25 kg bag from homebrew shop £28 plus shipping £18 direct from fawcetts but min order is 10 bags for collection

It's a start up, one man band outfit, and I know's he's busier than a long tailed cat in a rocking chair showroom!

bearnecessities - Member
Mrs CFH bought me a brewery. Which is nice.
Sorry, but what?? This needs a thread!

And lo, there already was a thread! 😀

Oh 🙁

For someone that receives £95 fart mufflers as a 'present', I was hoping something for more like:

[img] [/img]

😆

trout's brewing shed there is bordering on mcmoonter levels of wonder from me. Nicely done!

Nice stuff.

Does anyone want a Chest Freezer? Free for collection from Exeter area.
Does work, but keen to get rid.

Let me know.

That brewery ^ is about a mile from my house. Must arrange a visit

I have made beer and cooked steak. All tonight needs is a Dutch oven for the man hat trick of awesomeness.

Italian Job on C4+1.

Grand slam.

First brew is on...! 😀

Now, for my next - wondering what to aim for. Am thinking something like a Summer Lightning.

Also, if I happened to live close to the source of a fine river, I really should be getting my water from there, shouldn't I? 🙂

How's it all going flashy?

Immensely fun and satisfying isn't it? 🙂

I just brewed a Bells Two Hearted IPA clone (for the second time) on xmas eve. Probably one of the best IPAs ever made and the clone is pretty special, after one bottle I knew I'd be brewing it time and time again.

Recipe is [url= http://beersmithrecipes.com/viewrecipe/1645/bells-two-hearted-ipa ]here[/url]

Also just brewed an oatmeal stout yesterday which went well.

Currently got 3 fermenting, 2 bottle conditioning which won't be ready for a while and 7 currently being consumed (although stocks are getting low!).

If you want some help with Beersmith (which is very very useful for using and scaling other people's recipes or creating your own), let me know. I have equipment profiles set up for the massive brewery kit which took me some time to dial in, which you are of course more than welcome to.

Actually, I've made a few tweaks to the kit to make life a bit easier, including one simple one which took my efficiency from 55% to 72% on bigger beers. Email me if you want to chat 🙂