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One for the beardy mcaxersons... My trailbuilding tools are pretty much all blunt, I was doing a load of ground clearance and bumping rocks and wood and that so I just want to put a better edge back on. But they'll get hammered again so I'm after reasonably cheap and easy, rather than putting a razor edge on stuff. And I know [i]nothing.[/i] I've just used whatever's to hand before- usually a file or a flap wheel but file is kind of a pain in the bum
Soooo, what tool? For- monkey metal folding scythe, reasonably nice fiskars brushhook and axe, rogue hoes rhino super-macleod-mattock-thing. Pocketable would be good.
A file will probably suffice. You could get a lansky dual grit puck if you want to put a better edge on. Just don't use a grinder.
CZ?
A couple of different files, bastard and fine cut for totally dinged edges, and maybe an axe stone for fine finish. That will keep everything as sharp as you need... Plus portable....
Jamie Roberts's chin.
Flat file, work towards the edge, so much more effective, if not so health and safety.
For axes at home I've started using a belt sander held in a workmate.
Flat file as above but if you have a scrap of leather push the tang through that then wap the handle on.
A scyth stone will do the curved blades.
It might 'be a pain', but the quickest, easiest way of getting a usable edge on a basic working axe is a file, or a couple of pucks.
You can make your own, if you've got a spare round fence post, just cut some slices off, around an inch or so thick, making sure the cut faces are dead flat, sand them smooth and varnish them, then get several grades of wet and dry, and a removable adhesive, spray the flat face and place on the back of the wet and dry with a weight on it, when dry, cut around the wood with a utility knife. You could make a whole bunch, going from around a 100 grit, then working up 200, 400, 600, 800, 1000, 2000, but for general work no higher than about 800.
But really, a couple of good 2nd cut engineers files, a coarse, medium and fine, that should work.
There's always a Lidl bench belt sander, but that's a good way of destroying an otherwise good tool if you're not very careful.
We're not talking fancy spoon carving tools here, just a basic hatchet.
There are diamond 'stones' you can buy, but good one's ain't cheap, wood glue and sheets of wet and dry are.
The small diamond stone for about £5 at B&Q or Screwfix is surprisingly good. I got one and threw all my old oilstones away.
You are giving the tools some hard use in the woods right?
Stop buggering about with silly detail sharpening and give them a once over when you get home. If you were out there for 6 months, trying to shave with the same tool that you are chopping roots and stones with then maybe carrying a fine stone would be worth while but I doubt that is what's going on.
Fetch the axe back with a angle grinder or a bench grinder. If you want to be a bit cool and trendy use a foot powered one. Don't over heat it but that's just care. Maybe take off a burr with a file if you can't manage that with the grinder. Test it on the hair on your arm. If it will shave them then its likely to lose that lovely edge with the first few chops. Save that for the pocket knife.
Saws? Slip them in the vice to do it with the correct tool. Pocket knife. Sharp before you go and unless you use it for something silly, like chopping wire, it will be fine until you get home.
OK, cheers folks, I'd assumed there'd be a better way to do it with proper tools but if a file is good enough I'll just keep doing that.
The axe is basically a really impractical hammer at this point 😆