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not including the cost of the shower.............................
..............
..........
......
200
nooooooooooooo
350
nooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo
400quid!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
you cannot be serious!!!!!!!!!!
Do it yourself?
Oh, no you can't because you might burn your hoose down IF you get it wrong.
Who thinks it is simple? You or the fitter? What is included?
geoff - assuming he lives in englandshire so ....
sounds to me like he simply doesnt want the job .....OR there is more to it than meats YOUR eye - IE is it a fresh install requiring new pipes and electrical work - might be required to change cabling , MCBs and such like if its a bigger output than the previous.
what does 'install' cover?
New cable?
consumer unit?
chasing wall?
new water supply pipe/change feed?
making good?
testing and issuing certificate?
I paid over £50 just for the cable when I had a new shower installed.
If it does require new electrical work, do not trust the plumber to do it. They are, in my experience*, absolutely useless when it comes to electrical stuff.
* 3 separate large jobs, ended up re-doing the wiring myself.
[i]do not trust the plumber to do it[/i]
and unless they're able to issue the necessary paperwork it's illegal anyway 😉
New cable? YES 5meters
consumer unit? 35quid integrated into fuse box
chasing wall? no
new water supply pipe/change feed?, T'd off cold water bath tap just 1meter below the shower
making good? none
testing and issuing certificate? none.
+ pull cord!
Is the 5 metres of cable an easy install?.
previous owner of my house was a plumber.
dear lord.
my 10.5kw shower was 6mm cable to the switch then from the switch to the shower was 2.5mm
was it any surprise that after it started tripping the breakers and i stripped the shower i found the live wire coating burned along its length
I had a new electric shower over bath put in for my tenants in Edinburgh recently, that was just a new unit, all the electrics pipes etc all there. That cost £325 and was the lowest of the quotes. The agency wanted £400 plus vat for their guy to do it !! Either I wuz robbed or you are getting a fairly good deal, again depends where you are, the Edinburgh central tax is about 20% I reckon, compared to what you pay in the provinces.
New cable? YES 5meters
consumer unit? 35quid integrated into fuse box
chasing wall? no
new water supply pipe/change feed?, T'd off cold water bath tap just 1meter below the shower
making good? none
testing and issuing certificate? none.
+ pull cord!
Tony, it's a days work for a spark so there's £150ish
Cables going to cost about £20
Without seeing you fuse board (consumer unit) its difficult to say what other costs are involved. It could be that the bonding needs upgrading.
And it will need a cert because a; its a new circuit and b; it in a room containing a bath or a shower.
£400 seems a bit high but it soon adds up!
Interestingly a guy at work, who is also a retained fireman, installed his own electric shower. How embarrassed he was when he set his loft on fire.
Thought it was a good idea to coil all the spare cable up under the loft insulation.
Without seeing you fuse board (consumer unit) its difficult to say what other costs are involved. It could be that the bonding needs upgrading.
BTW some one needs to get up to date with 17th edition regs.
[i]testing and issuing certificate? none.[/i]
I'd ask for some money back so you can get one from someone else.
[BTW some one needs to get up to date with 17th edition regs.]
im pretty sure "bonding" is still required in the 17th edition.
im pretty sure "supplementary bonding" in bathrooms isnt.
new water supply pipe/change feed?, T'd off cold water bath tap just 1meter below the shower
Get the plumber to put a T into the hot water bath tap as well, and you won't need an electric shower.
Do it yourself - easy.
Ive just done my whole bathroom. No wiring but moved the shower from one end of bath to other. So wires just needed pulled up to ceiling void then back down new whole.
Then the shower is just 3 wires and a pipe on cold feed. Use flexi pipe for your cold feed its easy.
was called to check the gas at a house last week after a fire.. porch had burnt down as a new consumer unit was switched on and promptly burst into flames! the bang was so big it even put a hole through the gas pipe!
russ295 - Member[BTW some one needs to get up to date with 17th edition regs.]
im pretty sure "bonding" is still required in the 17th edition.
im pretty sure "supplementary bonding" in bathrooms isnt.
1/2 correct but as the shower I believe will be fitted in the bathroom then Its Supplementary bonding as opposed to main bonding. Mostly not required these days with plastic main gas and water pipes
wow , i need to retrain as an electrician then! 🙂
roady_tony - Memberwow , i need to retrain as an electrician then!
Maybe maybe not is the answer to that, if you are a trained electrician you will know that is the correct answer to give. Seems like the £400 quote was based on that. Maybe you will need new wiring, bonding, RCD, consumer unit, the list goes on. I hate it when people ask me to do a "Simple Job"
New cable? YES 5meterstesting and issuing certificate? none.
New cable = testing and certificate needed.
[1/2 correct but as the shower I believe will be fitted in the bathroom then Its Supplementary bonding as opposed to main bonding. Mostly not required these days with plastic main gas and water pipes]
which half is correct?
you said someone needed to get upto date with the 17th ed.
main bonding is still a requirement in the 17th regardless of what the gas/water mains are made of, supplementary bonding in a bathroom isnt unless continuity cant be proved.
[Supplementary bonding between metallic service and waste pipes and the earth connections of equipment is no longer required, as long as the main bonding of services within the property is in place and the metallic pipework can be proved by testing to be continuous. (This makes the need for green and yellow cables in bathrooms more unlikely).]
plastic water/gas mains makes no difference to main bonding, its there to make sure any pipe work with in the property will be at the same potential if there is a fault, ie you have a shower with a fault and you touch the metal tap the voltage should be the same lets say 240v, no shock, if the tap was "earthed" you now have 240v passing through you and your in trouble.
17 ed added that all circuits have to be protected by an RCD that hopefully will trip before you get a shock thats bad enough to do any harm.
Still only 1/2 right BTW.
240 v isn't the problem passing through you its how much current you draw.
russ295 - Memberplastic water/gas mains makes no difference to main bonding, its there to make sure any pipe work with in the property will be at the same potential if there is a fault, ie you have a shower with a fault and you touch the metal tap the voltage should be the same lets say 240v, no shock, if the tap was "earthed" you now have 240v passing through you and your in trouble.
Eh ?
*walks away from post*
i know about ohms law! but with out knowing the excact voltage and the given resistance, i am unable to calculate the current, so 240v was just a general description.
you clearly have no idea about electrical protection systems in the domestic home
Thank you Rus295!
[BTW some one needs to get up to date with 17th edition regs.]im pretty sure "bonding" is still required in the 17th edition.
im pretty sure "supplementary bonding" in bathrooms isnt.
Main Equipotential Bonding is still required, it's only omitted if the incoming water and the rest of the installation within the building is all plastic. If its a plastic incomer and copper pipe work it's "recommended". But the inspectors still like to see some green and yellow cable near the stop cock!
Not sure what all this
is about.[1/2 correct but as the shower I believe will be fitted in the bathroom then Its Supplementary bonding as opposed to main bonding. Mostly not required these days with plastic main gas and water pipes]which half is correct?
you said someone needed to get upto date with the 17th ed.
main bonding is still a requirement in the 17th regardless of what the gas/water mains are made of, supplementary bonding in a bathroom isnt unless continuity cant be proved.[Supplementary bonding between metallic service and waste pipes and the earth connections of equipment is no longer required, as long as the main bonding of services within the property is in place and the metallic pipework can be proved by testing to be continuous. (This makes the need for green and yellow cables in bathrooms more unlikely).]
plastic water/gas mains makes no difference to main bonding, its there to make sure any pipe work with in the property will be at the same potential if there is a fault, ie you have a shower with a fault and you touch the metal tap the voltage should be the same lets say 240v, no shock, if the tap was "earthed" you now have 240v passing through you and your in trouble.
17 ed added that all circuits have to be protected by an RCD that hopefully will trip before you get a shock thats bad enough to do any harm.
But first off any Electrical working within a Bathroom must be carried out by a competent person - this means Part P registered.
By the sounds of things there is no cable present, therefore a new circuit is required, this will have to be derived from your consumer unit, from a MCB if you have RCD protection in place, if not an RCBO, now it is part of the wiring regulations to ensure that the consumer unit is adquatley rated and bonded - main, equopential and supplementary, Supplementary has been relaxed in the 17th with greater relance being placed on RCD's - All this will be detailed on the minor works test certificate YOU WILL recieve after the completion of the works.
BTW £400 sounds a bit steep all the same!
No problem.
I'm not 100% upto scratch with the 17th as I don't get involved with electrics now, (subby it out) but I know enough that that's not right, I've tried to explain about bonding to various people but it usually falls on deaf ears.
All this will be detailed on the [b]minor works test certificate[/b] YOU WILL recieve after the completion of the works.
New circuit = EIC (Electrical Installation Certificate) not minor works
russ295 - Memberi know about ohms law! but with out knowing the excact voltage and the given resistance, i am unable to calculate the current, so 240v was just a general description.
you clearly have no idea about electrical protection systems in the domestic home
Nope according to you, but please explain.
its there to make sure any pipe work with in the property will be at the same potential if there is a fault, ie you have a shower with a fault and you touch the metal tap the voltage should be the same lets say 240v, no shock, if the tap was "earthed" you now have 240v passing through you and your in trouble.
As this intrigues me, Whats there ? So the shower has a fault ? What fault ? How does Main and supplemental bonding NOT Earth all your metal work in a bathroom ?
You sound like as I said early 1/2 right the other 1/2 is a country mile away and dangerous.
But first off any Electrical working within a Bathroom must be carried out by a competent person - this means Part P registered.
not quite, part p is a building reg, there is no part p register, you need a spark you is registered with a governing bodie (niceic, napit etc) that can pass there own work off.
or you could do the job yourself and pay the local building control to pass it off.
All this will be detailed on the minor works test certificate YOU WILL recieve after the completion of the works.
it shouldnt be a minor works cert, it should be a full electrical intalation cert req for a new circuit,
BTW £400 sounds a bit steep all the same!
correct!!
i'm not have a go dale rider
i never said it wasn't there to earth the pipework, its there to make sure there is a fault path to earth, which there will be via the incoming electrical supply or an earth rod.
now lets say there is an fault that makes the cold water pipework in the bathroom live (cable under the floorboard has rubbed on it) and you turn on the tap whilst touching the radiator and the rad is at earth potential and the tap (under fault) is at 240v, that will give you a shock.
the bonding, be it main or suplementary is there to remove the potential differance, ie it would all be at 240v so there is no (or a very limited) path to earth through you, as eletric will go the route of least resistance, its going down the bonding and back to earth.
the mcb/rcd etc "should" have tripped long ago tho!
have a spy at this