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New offerings from Fuji (HS20 EXR), with 30x manual zoom (24mm-720mm effective lens), RAW capabilities, plenty of manual settings, hotshoe with TTL metering, EXR CMOS sensor and 360fps HD video...
... and Sony HX100V with 30x manual/motorised zoom (not such a wide range, but can't remember without checking - think it starts at 28mm and no RAW/hotshoe), Leica lens, EXR sensor, background blur for DoF, slower video capture, but still HD and apparently blows the Fuji away with it's focusing ability..... both seem to have lots to offer.
I'm initially drawn to the Fuji, as online reviews gush about it's capabilities and it has stacks of features, however the forums seem to be leaning towards the Sony, due to difficulties getting settings right on the Fuji and it constantly hunting for focus.
They are both quite new, so I suppose it will be a waiting game until both cameras strengths and weaknesses are properly reported.
However, does anyone use similar equipment with decent results?
DSLR users needn't chip in - I'm well aware you can achieve much better results 😉
The Fuji F550 EXR looks pretty handy! Only a 15x zoom, but RAW and compact is always good!
I tend to use DSLRs (and full frame ones at that), but I do sometimes break out the compact! This was taken a couple of days back on a wee Canon S90:
[url= http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5264/5610087071_9571616940_b.jp g" target="_blank">
[url= http://www.flickr.com/photos/alpinist-photography/5610087071/ ]11th April 2011[/url] by [url= http://www.flickr.com/people/alpinist-photography/ ]Rob Sutherland[/url], on Flickr
Awesome results from a compact Capt. Did you use any fancy settings or post edit it?
I set the exposure for the sky, stuck on some negative compensation then used the flash to bring the bike out of the resultant gloom!
Post processing was then just a bit of a tweak to the exposure level, slight contrast increase and add a strong vignette. All in all about 2 minutes work 😉
I've been looking at the Fuji f500 exr as a replacement to my f31
Olympus C-5060Z bought in 2005, and it was old then. Flippin ace camera, my Sister in Law has it now 🙂
[url= http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1158/5101499609_ec2650a382.jp g" target="_blank">
[url= http://www.flickr.com/photos/11569254@N06/5101499609/ ]P7190023[/url] by [url= http://www.flickr.com/people/11569254@N06/ ]molgrips[/url], on Flickr
[url= http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4124/5101499369_98a2676526.jp g" target="_blank">
[url= http://www.flickr.com/photos/11569254@N06/5101499369/ ]P7190026[/url] by [url= http://www.flickr.com/people/11569254@N06/ ]molgrips[/url], on Flickr
[url= http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1260/5101499693_608279a051.jp g" target="_blank">
[url= http://www.flickr.com/photos/11569254@N06/5101499693/ ]P7190002[/url] by [url= http://www.flickr.com/people/11569254@N06/ ]molgrips[/url], on Flickr
1. is RAW worth having on a compact?
2. what kind of shutter speeds is one using at 720mm?
Rule of thumb = your focal length expressed in 000ths of a second. So 720mm (in effective 35mm terms) = 1/720 Although I think image stabilisation reduces this requirement.
RAW - depends what you want to do. Maybe.
Canon S95. No superzoom, but my 12X zoom Canon was rubbish for photos, seem to be designed as a video camera!
S95 shutter is quick enough to catch lovely sporting shorts
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Some cool "fun" settings too (miniaturise)
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and copes with light brilliantly
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{edit - macro not bad too}
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molgrips ain't that the wrong way round...longer focal length = longer shutter speed needed?
cynic-al - Member
molgrips ain't that the wrong way round...longer focal length = longer shutter speed needed?
molgrips 'guide' is correct. It basically is a rule of thumb of the shutter speed you should be aiming to use for that focal length to get a sharp picture. Slower and you risk camera shake.
Longer lenses generally mean less light which means it's hard to achieve those fast shutter speeds unless you are in bright sunlight.
Stabilisation should give you a few stops to play with.
As stumpy says the more you zoom in, the worse camera shake gets, so the higher shutter speed you need to avoid blur.
And this becomes harder because there's less light when you zoom in (you are after all magnifying a much smaller portion of the field of view).
Those great big lenses that you see at sports events that cost many thousands of pounds aren't necessarily any zoomier than your compact - the difference is they let in a LOT of light which means they can snap action shots.
capt. kronos - that bike shot is great!
[url] http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1009&message=38190142 [/url]
Some zoom examples of the Sony. Only viewed them on my phone, but seen other examples that seem impressive