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Hello,
Trying to fit a new DAB radio to my van. Apline CDE-205DAB to a 2013 Mk7 Transit.
Got it mostly working, even the steering wheel volume control. However, the old one would work without the ignition on, the new one won't and I would like it to.
There is the connector with lots of wires which is part of the van. There is also the one with many fewer wires which goes into the back of the radio, also fewer than went into the back of the old radio, I guess one of the missing ones must be the permanent feed.
So, can I work out which is the permanent feed into the old connector and connect this to the ignition feed in the new one? Or maybe run a feed from either the fuse box or battery (easy, under the driver's seat) into the radio? I have a 10a inline fuse, same rating as the main one in the radio itself. Any better ideas? And which wires are involved? The manual suggests that the yellow one should come from the battery but this fits somewhere else.
Ive got some pics of the connector, the new radio and the manual.
Any advice much appreciated.
Thanks guys and girls.
.
Blow it up at your own risk as I'm not a sparky but the red will need to be on a permanent live for the radio to work all the time. Linking the red wire to the yellow should do it.
Take the blue pill.
At the moment does it store the radio presets etc when powered off - just won't stay on without the ignition on?
If so, it sounds like it is working as intended.
The yellow is permanent feed and red the switched live, so linking the red to the feed supplying the yellow will allow you to use it with no ignition.
If it isn't storing the settings etc when off, then the yellow wire isn't connected to a permanent live and will ultimately be easier to put a new fused supply in direct from the battery. Then connect both red and yellow to this.
Looks like you have an autoleads or connects2 wiring adaptor in there so should all be relatively easy to play with.
Thanks guys.
I don't know about the presets, I haven't programed any in yet. Connected it all up, apart from the aerial (powered aerial does need a feed attaching) The CD player was working so I know the speakers and things are fine, likewise the steering wheel controls. Realised that it only works with the engine running so removed it and put the old one back temporarily (doing a camper conversion and have the radio on whilst I'm working on it so spend a lot of time in there without the engine running)
It is indeed a Connects2 adapter.
I'll have a play with it later, plug it back in and program something into it and see what it remembers.
I'll report back shortly.
Thanks 🙂
Actually, that might be a while, I've buggered the fuel filter housing while servicing it, long story but turns out there's a special tool for getting it off... New filter housing and tool on their way but I can't start the engine at present and I'm reluctant to switch the ignition on without a fuel filter there in case the pump tries to draw something through.
Back in my T4 owning days I had to swap the switched & permanent live feeds round when fitting an after market CD player. Your red & yellow cables will pull apart at the clear bullet connectors. Pull them apart & swap them over.
I fitted a 3 position switch to mine, so I can run off the ignition when the engine is running but can also run off the leisure battery when parked up without draining the starter battery
My understnadin was the Yellow/Red connectors were designed to allow you to unplug/replug in any which way you wanted to have live power supplied as one is ignition power and the other is mains, so you can choose how it get put in.
Interesting, most cars I've had the key had to be in at least the first position for the radio to work. So you can't kill the battery. If you literally have to have the engine running, that's a new one on me.
Does the vehicle have an accessory position for the key?
FWIW I replaced the stereo on my c-max with an alpine one.
IIRC the ford radio had a 1 hour timer on it so you wouldn't flatten the battery. If you're going to wire it to the permanent live then it may be worth checking that its fused for the full current at the fuse box not just the standby current. Otherwise you'll blow that one first. And install a battery protector which will cut out at ~12V so the engine still starts, or just run it off the leisure batteries.
Roger, grab the cat.......
Got a test lamp?