[Closed] Shaft gripper...?

mole grips? 😆

molgrips - Member

I need to unscrew a stud that has no hex head

not sure if serious....

I made my own for fork/reverb air shafts by clamping 2 blocks of ali in a vice and drilling a hole between them.Might work with 2 bits of wood for the stud.
Or wind on 2 nuts and tighten them up against each other.

Brilliant and correct answer

Shall we all start a thread with our name as the answer?

two nuts screwed on tight against each other, then unwind the bottom one

Boa type strap wrenches are pretty good - depends how big your shaft is though...

[img] [/img]

I hate to say this but have you considered a Mole Grip?

two nuts screwed on tight against each other, then unwind the bottom one

That ^^^^

can you put two nuts on the stud and turn the lower one to undo it?

! doh !

Shall we all start a thread with our name as the answer?

[i]Shall we all start a thread with our name as the answer?[/i]

I'm out.

errrr, what was the question again?

What test is a psychological test in which subjects' perceptions of inkblots are recorded and then analyzed using psychological interpretation?

Asshat test?

I am going to spoil the fun...

A set of stillsons is what you need.

With what word would you describe a sudden forward thrust of the body, typically with an arm outstretched to attack someone or seize something?

Molgrips won't work at all - they'll just slip, because they don't self tighten as you turn. I'm sure I've seen something that will do this.. cannot remember what it's called though.

two nuts screwed on tight against each other, then unwind the bottom one

That was my initial thought but I thought they'd probably both slip - that seems to be my experience in other situations.

As Joshvegas says, Stilsons are self tightening pipe wrenches and would be ideal as long as the 2 x nuts tightened together is not an option.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Toolzone-18-STILSONS-PIPE-WRENCH/dp/B001O5M1ZC

Other tool outlets are available.

I generally find decent mole grips will bite into most things and grip.

If the 2 nuts don't work then you could always file/grind some flats onto the stud and use grips. Or put some blobs of weld on.

The answer wasn't necessarily his own username. "Shaft gripper" could apply to certain other people on here.

Where's Matt?

molgrips - Member
Molgrips won't work at all - they'll just slip, because they don't self tighten as you turn. I'm sure I've seen something that will do this.. cannot remember what it's called though.

Convenient someone gave you the answer then innit...

I wasn't thinking of Stillson - there's something else I'm sure.. but perhaps not if no-one else can think of it.

Stud remover?

[img] [/img]

Stud removers are good, cheap ones can be flaky though. 2 nuts is just as effective when the stud's in good nick. TBH unless you really want it out it's usually better to leave them where they are, and just clean the thread if need be and reuse.

See now why didn't I think to google 'stud extractor'.. what a pillock..

Machine mart have them.

As for whether or not to remove them - that's a difficult one. It's cambelt time on the Passat, and there's controversy over wether or not the tensioner pulley stud needs replacing. VW say no, but if it's ever been overtightened it can snap. Replacement stud is £2 so it seems like a no brainer.

How big is the stud?

Stilson is a good answer. As is two nuts.

edit: just seen the edit. I guess the stud is quite sizable and in good condition. two nuts would be my preference here if you must remove it.

[i]it seems like a no brainer.[/i]

unless the stud is stuck in and snaps close to the surface when being removed.

electrical erosion can get expensive, even if it's just the effort needed to remove the bit with the stud in and get it to the engineers.

Somewhere to store unnecessary garden crap, bikes, and tools?

Hmmmmmm?????????

Yeah.. apparently the block is aluminium, and the stud is steel...having said that it's pretty clean inside the cambelt cover still, so it ought to be in good condition and it ought to come out.. OUGHT to... but you're right if I attempt it I might **** the whole thing up completely.

It's 10mm in diameter so fairly chunky.

It's cambelt time on the Passat, and there's controversy over wether or not the tensioner pulley stud needs replacing.

Bookies are no longer taking bets on a related thousand post thread .....

@mol, its the machine mart ones I have. One of them's packed in, the M6 I think, the M8 can be a bit slippy. But when they work they're good. On the one hand I've had them 10 years but on the other I've used them about twice a year so maybe they're corroded or something but they've not been used much. Not entirely sure I could recommend them

How many cambelt changes has it had?

Er... two. This will be the third.

Bookies are no longer taking bets on a related thousand post thread .....

Just be careful, if you manage to damage things you'll wish you had taken it to a garage to be done!

With Hillman Imp engines it was usual to drip on Nitric acid. Didn't attack the aluminium but did have a go at the stud. Soon loosened it.

Has to be concentrated to avoid attacking the aluminium as it passivated it.

Is there was a way to indicate that I have modified my car in an utterly superficial and vain manner that affords no actual improvement to the performance?

These types of stud remover/installer are a lot better than the one linked to earlier. They fit into the space a little larger than a nut. [img] [/img]

On a 10mm stud, if 2 nuts back to back didn't shift it I'd be wary of trying anything else, it'll probably end up shearing

Good advice all, thanks.

Molegrips, the weekend is almost over and there's been no progress report.

Two nuts worked on one of the studs, not on another though. Couldn't quite get two spanners in there.

Cambelt was a success, but it along with the discs still took all day. Need to tweak the camshaft position to set the torsion value closer to zero though. Although it's closer than it was and the gearbox seems to work a bit better now. I think timing was out which affected it.

However, I need a new sump plug for the gearbox cos it's leaking, and a rear shock is also leaking so will fail soon. Also there looks like some inside shoulder wear on the rear tyres.

Need to tweak the camshaft position to set the torsion value closer to zero though.

That sounds worrying. I'd have thought on a twin cam if either of the cams were misaligned you'd be in deep do do. Does the cam locking tool not lock them together or are the adjustable?

There's a pin that goes through the sprocket and hub and into the block. It's really hard to get in, but even so there's still slight play. You're supposed to turn the engine over twice then realign the sprockets - I did this twice once I figured it out. The engine starts and runs, probably better than before.

However VCDS tells you if the front camshaft is out, and mine is advanced by about 0.75 degrees. Not enough to be an issue, it needs to be four or five whole degrees out to be a real problem, but I think I'd like to set it bang on zero as per spec now I've got the hang of adjusting it.

I had a quick look at a clip to see how they bare adjusted. 3/4 of a degree probably wont be a tooth, four or five degrees probably would.

It didn't look that more complicated than the SOHC engine belt replacement.

Its much more satisfying than having a garage do it. Well done.

Thanks.. but I regret the very hard day it took - was under pressure to be done before the DIY ramp place closed. His Mrs and kids turned up and were all waiting for me to be done.

Otoh, VW would've charged almost £700 for rear pads, cambelt and water pump!