[Closed] Road (Bi) ke curious- what did everyone else do

Nothing to add to this other than a Binners original....

Plenty of options around that price point - look at getting a previous year model with good discounts. I wouldn't be worried about disk brakes (personally I think they look gash on road bikes) as rim brakes will happily slow you down.

Webster Bikes have always come up trumps for me - I got 20% off a Specialised Tarmac (carbon frame, mainly 105 groupset) in 2016 and it's a lovely bike.

I have never once thought a road bike felt 'twitchy' but then I grew up riding 'racing bikes'.

I bought first road bike when i moved to Norfolk and realised that decent MTB riding was going to be a drive away and that on a road bike here i could ride for hours on back roads and see little traffic.

Some great road bikes in that price range, Giant Defy, Specialized Roubaix, Cube or similar from Pauls.

You can ride fine in MTB shoes and SPD's at first, but just make sure bike is set up well for you. road biking is a very different position to MTB and you're in the position longer, so be comfortable is a big thing.

What about one of the new generation of "gravel/ adventure" bikes, good on our more pot-holded roads tend to have less "racey" position and you can do what i do and mostly ride routes that are part road, part bridleways, part canal ?

Opted for a Trek Crossrip with carbon forks and disc brakes about 5 years ago since then it's been used for day rides occasional commuting and on several touring trips. Does regular forest road trips with aplomb  No complaints.

Gravel bike was the answer for me, but I have to get off road to get away from traffic around here. I love being able to take detours over any terrain.

Will be a fair bit heavier than a pure road bike at the same price but it still feels light to me when I'm used to budget MTBs.

I'd say to avoid the PX pro carbon, they are really really flexi, you can feel the bike twist when cornering.

Kinesis racelight T2 (or I think its a T3 now) would be good option for decent bike with options for guards / rack etc for flexibility. (no disc brakes though)

I bought an Avanti Giro 3  - love it. Comfortable over long days  - 50-36 chainset  11 - 32 cassette  perfect for an slightly overweight old man!

I would consider a cross bike now with maybe a spare set of wheels

Specialized Allez Elite.

I have owned loads of road bikes, some of them very expensive carbon framed high spec, and for £999 the Allez is superb. Comfortable, stiff, good power transfer, stable, not too aggressive, not too relaxed, and best of all not to scared to ride it in all weather, or put it in the back of the car.

Edit - has mudguard and rack mounts, takes a 28mm tyre too.

Much less than £1k, can be totally custom in terms of geometry, pannier mounts etc. Cool sense of satisfaction at building it. Not quite carbon fibre but vaguely similar construction technique.

Not sure you'd get one on C2W though...

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PX pro carbon is fine. It flexes, but then so do steel frames - it basically feels a bit stiffer and a lot lighter than a lightweight steel road bike.

Then again is it for you? You won't get guards or panniers on, and I don't think (see flex above) that I'd put a seatpost mounted rack on mine even if I didn't have a bike with a proper rack. You will be able to go fast on local roads though. Wheels are cheap, I'm not sure about hub spares, would be my main problem with it. But that's probably going to be the case with most bikes at that price point.

You don't want to spend the chunk of cash it would take at that price point on disc brakes for a road bike, it's going to knock the rest of the stuff down a peg or two and only makes any difference in the wet. Worst case you get cheap discs that are no better and in some ways worse than the good rim brakes you'd otherwise get.

Panniers are not really necessary due to bikepacking bag options. I would only use them if I wanted to transport clothes without crumpling them or something like a laptop.

Disk brakes are ok but at your budget you will likely be getting cable disks rather than hydraulic

Mudguards are a good thing for 65% of the year

I got an aluminium Cannondale Synapse Disc 105 on Bike to Work a few years ago. Really comfortable and I would rather have the better groupset than carbon frame. Only disappointment was the Promax Render cable discs which I have replaced with TRP Spyres (£70 a pair off ebay).

Don't get a flat bar - I have seen numerous people do this and regret it after a few months. Drops are easy to get on with after an initial adjustment period. I would also not buy a gravel bike. They are fashionable at the moment but I think the extra weight and (general) lower spec for the money do not compensate for the supposed extra flexibility. Normal road bikes can handle unpaved paths ok as long as the are not too rough (and if they were you would be on your MTB).

Mountain bike style clipless pedals are fine and allow you to walk properly.

I would go for a "sportive" geometry bike like the Synapse or Giant Contend. More recent models tend to have low gearing (11-32 or 11-34) which will be useful on hills if you are carrying a few pounds.

I regularly do 200km audax rides on may Synapse and it has not let me down (apart from the replaced brakes). I really enjoy road biking and audaxing has opened up lots of challenges and made me get to know the roads around me a lot better - very sociable too.

Thanks all. So the Pro Carbon is probably not the do it all bike. I don't need disc brakes, especially not cheap ones. Gravel bikes are in, and a good shout. Bamboo is probably not available on C2W!

Some great suggestions, will track them down one by one and have a look. Cheers

Sportive is in.

"I would go for a “sportive” geometry bike like the Synapse or Giant Contend. More recent models tend to have low gearing (11-32 or 11-34) which will be useful on hills if you are carrying a few pounds."

15 stone and 6'4" I am carrying but am well within a healthy weight range. I have also had quite a lot on at work recently 🙂

Personally, I’d just get a plain road bike. The Planet X pro carbon is a perfectly good, light road bike. As for flexible - do your really want an ultra stiff race machine? It doesn’t sound like it so I’d say the Pro C is the kind of bike you want. Ribble & Merlin do similar bikes too if you don’t like P-X

I would at something in the gravel / CX / adventure style rather than a head down, bum up racer stylee - enough clearances for 30mm plus tyres and guards plus a rear rack mounts - they all come with discs these days. Agree on drop bars, riding any distance with a flat bar on roads etc is a pain due to limited hand positions and not being able to tuck down into headwinds etc.

Nothing wrong with cable discs if set up properly with decent cables, they are very reliable, easy to adjust and virtually no maintenance apart from twisting the adjuster knobs.

I use SPD and MTB shoes for all my touring / offroad only having road pedals and shoes on the 'fast' road bike.

I've happily hucked a CX bike down red and black MTB trails - you just face a different level of commitment

There will be no benefits for going carbon on the price range you identify - and the type of bike you want. You will get more with a alu frame.

And even though disc is how road bikes are now inevitably going - they most certainly are not superior to rim brakes, and come with their own unique set of issues ... loud squeaking brakes being my biggest issue with them.

I got a new aluminium frame (with 650b and flat mount) and herself just recently got a new steel frame (with the same features). They're very versatile. I also have a custom 853 frame built to take Salmon guards and a ti frame for faster days. At the moment I'm riding the 650b most out of all of them. I have put a Nitto rack on the front to support a front bag and to mount a dynamo front light to. worked ok on Gravel Dash 🙂

Speaking of Adventure bikes, anyone got or looked at a Felt VR? I can't find one local to look at.

And even though disc is how road bikes are now inevitably going – they most certainly are not superior to rim brakes

Bollocks.

Not sure I'd want to chuck a gravel bike around black trails, but I am a wuss.

If I was the original poster I'd probably go for a Trek Domane ALR, see if there is a 2017 model available. I had the disc brake version for a few years and it was a very capable bike. I'd only go hydraulic discs as well. The Domane can take 35c tyres (G-One) and I've used mine a lot with 33c Bontrager Cross Tyres.

The G-Ones were absolutely fine on road as well, I'd use them for decent pace club rides as well as light off-road adventures. (Done the CX Sportive Gold Rush event and also the South Downs Way on it)

Bollocks

Well despite that eloquent and incisive argument, I would agree that discs aren't necessarily superior, I certainly wouldn't want them on a road bike again until manufacturers step up to resolve the squeeling in the wet issues. I ended up mothballing my disc brake bike and riding through the winter on my mini-vs with Swisstop BXP pads. Quiet dependable braking no matter what.

Plus as someone else pointed out above, discs at £1000 = compromises elsewhere!

Specialized Allez Elite.

+1

I had one years ago, was an excellent all rounder, road races, sportives, club runs etc...

I'd echo much of the advice already:

- gravel-type bike would be great, bit more relaxed geo, quite capable on or off-road, likely to have wider flared drops

- disc brakes not necessary for confidence, especially if you aren't hooning down hills (in fact, I've had disc brake fade going down Puig Major on Mallorca, which is far more scary)

- rack mounts not really necessary with bar / frame bags

I'd recommend what I own and suggest picking up a cheap GT Grade somewhere. At least you're not doing what I did and dive straight into the deep end with a Litespeed then a Colnago C40. Still love riding on the road so it was worth it!

Excellent all round advice. Thanks for taking the time everyone. Start date is mid August. I guess i should give it a week or so before raising the C2W voucher 🙂

Many thanks- much appreciated.

In STW " recommend what you have" fashion, Cube Attain GTC Pro Disc, if you can find one of the 2017 models on sale in your size for ~£1070... If 32mm real world tyre widths are wide enough and panniers aren't necessary. Had my 2016 model just over a year, it's the best road bike I've ever had, previous nice bikes being a 2006 Felt F5C and 1997(?) Principia RSL.

Stock spec is ~9Kg, but can be ~8.5Kg by replacing the ~1900g wheels plus the non-premium tyres/tubes.

https://www.rutlandcycling.com/bikes/road-bikes/cube-attain-gtc-pro-disc-2017-carbon-road-bike-grey_373882

I ride a 58cm, I'm 5'10" with short ~32" cycling inseam legs.

I got curious around 4 years ago, and took a punt on a secondhand specialized allez off ebay which I collected from its original owner and for £300 was a complete bargain as it had not been ridden from new! still had the receipt and user manual! did a few local rides near my house then signed up to do the Coast 2 coast ( which was ace)  and a couple of 100 mile sportives later and Im hooked, and do more road miles than MTB now. Upgraded to a spesh tarmac after the allez got pinched.

Bargain here

https://www.rutlandcycling.com/bikes/road-bikes/genesis-zero-z1-2018-carbon-racing-road-bike-black_374131

(If you are a shorty like me anyway)

So the Pro Carbon is probably not the do it all bike.

Yes, I'd agree with that summary.

But I guess what you need to decide is what you really want - if you get a fast road bike, you can use an MTB if you go touring, chuck some fast tyres on if you feel the need. It'll handle bike packing gear fine, potentially with swapping out the seatpost for a non-dropper. And you have more options for what ground you can cover then.

I have a super lightweight carbon canyon with aero wheels and a caadx x that I got on bike to work that I use with a set of slightly lighter than stock wheels and road tyres when weather isn't great. The caadx isn't much slower and is far more versatile if you ever fancied taking it off smooth tarmac.

If it's purely for road use I'd go with a dedicated road bike however would not be making disk brakes or carbon frame a priority. However decent wheels that aren't boat anchors would be.

Something like a btwin Af 900 would be my choice...under 9kg, decent wheels and 11 speed groupset all for 800 quid. And depending on your btw scheme available on that as well.

If it’s purely for road use I’d go with a dedicated road bike however would not be making disk brakes or carbon frame a priority

This, look at the package overall not some tick box like a carbon frame or something.

The benefit of just getting a light fast road bike is you'll enjoy it more and therefore use it more - unless you don't, in which case it's unlikely that a slower less sprightly bike would have motivated you to ride more.

Oh and as others have said, don't worry about "twitchy" handling, it's on the road, you won't be ploughing through rock gardens or anything, they will feel super steady when you're bombing (or bimbling) along the road, just if needed you can chuck them into corners a lot faster.

<div class="bbp-reply-author">tomhoward
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And even though disc is how road bikes are now inevitably going – they most certainly are not superior to rim brakes

Bollocks.

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Theres always one!

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Disc brakes have their advantages; if your a heavier rider doing very long technical descending where there is a risk of overheating your rims .. or out on wet roads with poor brake pads; then disc brakes are an advantage for sure.

However, a few wet rides and they squeal .. certainly enough to not descend fast enough through the lanes in case you meet horse riders who you will very likely spook because of the brake squeal .. they can rub also, which takes a few minutes of adjusting to sort ... as opposed to a second or so with rim brakes.

Good hydraulic discs on a carbon sub £1000 bike will mean you will get terribly heavy wheels with very basic gearing .. if you can actually find one that is.

For how you described your riding - Id suggest a good quality alu frame with rim brakes - which will likely mean better wheels and groupset ... and easier brake set up.

So, what did you do- and how did it work out?

Cheap EBC road bike - enjoyed it

Upgraded to a Kona Haole that was cheap on Wiggle - really liked it and have kept it despite not riding it much any more. Tiny tyre clearances and no mudguards make it a bit of a pain though.

Planet X carbon RT58 (not that different to the Pro Carbon) - mostly because carbon and posh groupset for not much money. Didn't get on with it, could have been sizing but it never felt as nice to ride as the Kona - pretty much did the Ride 100 on it then flogged it on.

Cotic Escapade as a C2W - love it, felt spot on immediately. My rides are mostly getting out to quiet little country lanes (not chaingangs on A-roads) and the state most are in are much more comfy on big tyres. Leave mudguards on all year, commuted on it for a while when I had a commute, pull kids in the trailer with it. Only a Sora groupset for my C2W voucher limit but it works great these days.

Would totally recommend something a bit more relaxed that can fit tyres bigger than 28mm, if you're not racing or trying to keep up with a fast group then I'd always trade a bit of speed for comfort.

Buy the best Giant Defy your budget allows. It will do all you want. Make sure you get the right size - can help here. It does it all:

Want to bimble down the lanes on 28c tyres? TICK

Want to add some luggage? TICK

Want to race? TICK

Don't overthink the luggage bit, a decent saddlebag will do all you need. The Topeak MTX beam rack is very good. Panniers are overkill unless you really want to tour. Even then, a barbacg and Topeak will be fine.

Now the most important part: BUY ON GEOMETRY and avoid SLOW HANDLING on-trend gravel bike nonsense. Weight is much less of an issue than geometry. A well-handling heavy bike can feel fast, but a slow-handling light bike will always feel slow.

Whatever you buy, make sure it fits, and change the OEM tyres to something decent. Oh an avoid Planet X. For your budget, alloy frame, carbon forks, 105 groupset will be a great bike.

EDIT: The old alloy Giant Defy is now called the Contend. Buy the SL or SL disc (if you must)

https://www.giant-bicycles.com/gb/bikes-contend-sl-disc

Specialized Allez Elite (or maybe that 105 equipped Rose bike) and the correct pedals, bibs, shirt and helmet. Two bottles cages and bottles and a small saddle bag.

Once your hooked(you will be) change the wheels for something around £300.

Don't comprimise you’ll regret it, the pleasure in road riding is its single purpose focus.

On the disc thing..I’ve spent the last couple of weeks riding abroad including a Bedoin descent of Ventoux in a storm pushing 50mph rim brakes were  awesome.  One guy did out brake me and go past, he had carbon wheels and rim brakes.

Anyone who says you need discs is quite honestly talking bollox.

Defy/Contend V's Allez elite... Is there much difference?  Both seem highly regarded.

This years Alllez has a slightly more relaxed geometry so maybe similar to Defy.

Allez is 180mm headtube on a 56 for reference.

Anything from a big manufacturer will be fine, well sorted and properly made.

giant, cannondale, specialized etc.

i have a steel cx bike with discs, and an alloy road bike with rim brakes, there’s little to choose between them, i weigh 130kg.

your top priority on a road bike is fit, you spend a long time in one position generally, so small imperfections become quite noticeable.

ive ridden a cannondale caad8 a few years ago, really nice ride.

i own a cube attain road bike, it rides nicely.

i also own a charge filter cx bike, it rides like a traditional road bike but it’s not light at all, but not noticably slower and can take rack/mudguards and 32mm tyres. Ultimately, it’s your choice what you buy, so make sure you like it first, otherwise you won’t enjoy riding it.

all of the above were around the c2w threshold.

Ribble CGR. Mate at work is about to buy one - tomorrow; it's just about on the C2W limit; decent spec; not super light but not heavy.

Genesis do some well kitted out bikes that can be had with significant discounts towards the end of the season. That applies to many manufacturers so I'd be looking to buy on a few months time to maximize the vfm up to £1k.

Your LBS can often get their sales rep to match these deals so it's worth registering a cheeky interest now.

I have spyre discs and they do squeak in the wet but they've been trouble free thus far and it's nice to know they aren't wearing the rims and will work if I'm caught in a shower.

Bit drunk on bus

Love my London Road, about to do 200km Wicklow challenge on it next week, do club dinday club 85km easy on it.

Commuted 125km today's on it, disc brake, comfy and things for racks and mudguards

Can take big ****ing tyres, I run 28c at 85,)pi's eorks a treat. Burn can massive yokes in there with mudguard

Seatpost is Thomson to stop slipping as WC is the sink. Only shit bit.

But it!

Just throwing one in

http://www.cyclist.co.uk/reviews/3747/genesis-equilibrium-disc-20-review

Genesis Equilibrium 20 Disc.  In the end of season sales if there's any left

I certainly wouldn’t want them on a road bike again until manufacturers step up to resolve the squeeling in the wet issues. I ended up mothballing my disc brake bike and riding through the winter on my mini-vs with Swisstop BXP pads. Quiet dependable braking no matter what.

We've been through this. Lots of us had/have disk braked road bikes that don't squeal when wet.

Yeah, well I'm not one of those lucky few and have become bitter and resentful, so have sworn to haunt disc brake threads moaning about it.

Don't worry, I've another hundred pounds worth of new pads and rotors winging their way to me as we speak, I could become a disc brake evangelist yet...

Funny how these 'what road bike ?' threads illicit such enthusiastic response on a mountain bike forum..

Does anyone really bother much with their mtb anymore?

No .. not for about a year now.

Back to disc brake squeal.

Two different bikes with hydraulic discs. Both no probs with squeal in dry - both ok for a few wet rides .. then the squeal begins; only occasionally at first .. progressing to embarrassing loud squealing.

I can only guess those who haven’t encountered it are the typical STW dwellers who only actually ride sub 2000miles a year .. in dry weather, or fat bike riders who’s only experience of road bikes pootling on their gravel bike once or twice a year.

I'd be taking a look at Boardman.  They have a fantastic road range which get great reviews.

if your disc brakes squeal then something is wrong.  Thousands of miles on mtb discs on road where.  occasional squealing after prolonged dry use then a bit of drizzle is the worst I have had

Thanks all for your considered opinions. Really useful. I think you've probably helped me make a better decision (carbon no, disc brakes not essential- at that price you won't get good ones) etc. I will new have a root around the Specialized Allez/Giant Defy/Genesis £1000 aluminium & carbon fork lot when I get my voucher.

@cloudnine yes I still ride my MTB. I've been out 3 times this week because the weather is so amazing and its been lovely. I strongly believe however that when you try new things, learn new skills, experience new experiences your life is more full. That's all I'm really doing.

Thanks everyone for your time, you've been very helpful.

Just be aware that its a slippery slope with road bikes if you enjoy the pain.

Dont forget to get some decent bib shorts and before you ask about road jerseys..

Castelli Perfetto.

At £1000 for alloy frame, carbon fork and rim brakes, you can’t go wrong with any mainstream choice. Pick on colour and dealer. Try and avoid BB30 bottom bracket  every manufacturer will try and save somewhere, be it brakes or cranks  they might also add a more bling rear derailleur for no reason other than marketing. 105 11 speed is excellent and all you could need.  You want a 72.5 to 73 degree head angle fornice road handling  anything slacker than that will feel slow.

But change the tyres for something decent. Schwalbe Ones or Continental GP4000s are about £30 each, available in 28c and will be a transformation of the ride. Others will recommend lighter wheels, but this is not necessariy for a nice road bike. Handling trumps weight.

Most will come with a 50/34 compact and an 11-28 rear cassette. This will get you up the hills, but you may struggle initially.  Fitness comes fast with road riding.

In the time honoured tradition of STW may I humbly recommend a CaadX, 105 mechanical disk. Lovely all rounder.

More excellent advice. Many thanks.

But change the tyres for something decent. Schwalbe Ones or Continental GP4000s are about £30 each, available in 28c and will be a transformation of the ride. Others will recommend lighter wheels, but this is not necessariy for a nice road bike. Handling trumps weight.

I'd second this, and the nice tyres will save weight anyway. My first road bike was very cheap (Carrera something circa £500 RRP, back in 2000), swapping out the tyres for some good ones made a huge difference to the ride quality and they gripped and rolled better too.

Does anyone really bother much with their mtb anymore?

Nope - three bikes (MTB, single speed and road). The MTB (Specialized Enduro S-Works) hasn't been ridden in years. The SS is out often for bimbles with my children and occasional commute runs, the road bike gets used most weekends during the summer.

You can ride fine in MTB shoes and SPD’s at first

You can ride fine in mtb shoes and spds forever.  for casual/sportive riding there only seem to be downsides to road pedals and shoes.  No need for any special kit for road riding and wearing your mtb kit winds up the purists which is a *good thing*

if your disc brakes squeal then something is wrong

IME some brakes just squeal sometimes, usually only in the wet.  Shimano on two different road bikes are quiet.  My hopes are quiet on my mtb.  Katies Guides on shimano discs squeal like crazy in the wet at the moment (maybe the pads?).  I'd really recommend trying to get hydro discs on any bike now.  Brakes that work in the wet are just better.  If you've got mtbs you know how to look after them and service them.

I will never own a Carbon Mountain Bike. If 95% of my riding is suitable for that sort of machine is that a really stupid idea?

Yes, frame material is one of the least important things to worry about.  If your budget stretches to carbon in the style and spec of bike you want them go for it but look at style, groupset, wheels first and only then worry about whether it's steel/ally/carbon/ti.

If you want a flexible, comfortable, do it all, bike then look at 'endurance' geometry or the more roadie end of the gravel ranges. I would really recommend buying something that will take proper, full length mudguards.  Neither mine nor Katies bike will and that was a mistake.  That probably means you get pannier mounts as well - which is a good thing whatever the bike packing crew tell you.  You don't have to use them but you've got the option.

Aim for a 105 groupset.  It's the sweet spot as far as I can work out.  Discs preferred.

(that's all in the spirit of recommending what you didn't buy.  Carbon defy, Ultegra, no mounts for anything useful 🙁  )

There are two philosophies on tyres:

1 - Buy heavy, puncture-proof tyres from Continental or Michelin. Great idea for commuters who don't want punctures on glass-strewn roads and will last for many miles.

2 - Buy a light, cloth-wall tyre with amazingly grippy soft compound and a file pattern tread from Veloflex or Vittoria, use latex inners and enjoy fantastic grip and a smooth ride but not very long life and probably one puncture every 500 miles as they wear thin. I don't mind that because the occasional puncture is an excuse to stop and banter, well worth the trade-off for the amazing ride and grip.

Veloflext Open Corsas:  https://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/veloflex-corsa-folding-tyre-twinpack/

Used to be £54 for two but now a bit more pricey.

I went s/h, got a CAAD4 2003 bike in 2005 for £300 (the equivalent now would be a caad10). Unlike MTBs most road bikes don't take such abuse so older ones are still good value. Most frames will likely last tens of thousands of miles but only do hundreds. As a result that £300 bike now had a dura ace grouoset, carbon cranks and 1250g wheels!

Having said that I'm really tempted to get something new now. Can't decide if I want an Allez sprint. I like an alloy underdog and it looks bad ass, its like the Lotus Elise in a car park of carbon Ferraris. Or something more 'modern' that will take big tyres and disks but still be aero, although I could scratch that itch with deep rims for the CX bike.

My C2W scheme had the £1000 limit but you had to order from a site put up by wheelies instead of being able to go to a LBS.

I got an alloy Giant Defy (now contend) with 105 groupset as opposed to carbon frame with lesser parts and its served me well for the last 3 plus years, over the 3 years I've only put tubes in it and picked up some better wheels via a mate.

In the first few years was doing 100mile weeks commuting, now I'm back MTBing more its not seen much light till I dropped it on some rollers last night for a play and it felt fine. (Christ rollers are different to get used to!)

You can ride fine in mtb shoes and spds forever.  for casual/sportive riding there only seem to be downsides to road pedals and shoes.  No need for any special kit for road riding and wearing your mtb kit winds up the purists which is a *good thing*

Its a bit like driving Lada Riva and saying you do it to wind up people who drive a Porche. The reality is they really don't notice or care. You on the other hand have to ride around with flappy chaffey shorts, a sweaty back and a cricked neck.

There's a guy on our club runs like that, camelback, peak, disk brakes etc. I don't think he looks some how cooler than everyone else (he definitely doesn't and roadies set a pretty low bar), but I do wonder if he STWs.

No need for any special kit for road riding and wearing your mtb kit winds up the purists which is a *good thing*

Anybody who has made the change from mountain to road will know that this is twaddle. On a road bike you move at 20-30 mph and baggy flapping clothes quickly become extremely irritating as well as slowing you down; there's a reason why roadies wear snug-fitting kit.  A helmet peak will make you look up too high and give you neck-strain. Wearing mountain bike clobber on a road bike won't wind up the purists, it will just mark you out as a knobber, like the bloke I once passed on the Cape Argus who was riding a filthy, knackered old mountain bike with clanky squeaking transmission and wobbly wheels in some kind of inverted-snob attempt to show he was a cool dude. That he was singing and shouting to draw attention to himself only increased the knobber impression!

If you're thinking of going over to the road, I recommend a short book called The Escape Artist by Matt Seaton, which will give you a fascinating insight into roadie lore and race etiquette and the best explanation I've read for leg-shaving. It's non-fiction and has a devastating twist in the tale.

^^^ Agrees with this.

I recently got this Wilier GTR tiagra on the C2W.

https://www.jejamescycles.com/wilier-gtr-tiagra-road-bike.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-pzmlLCy2wIVxIXVCh2-8wyAEAQYASABEgJKnvD_BwE

Full carbon good quality frame. Tiagra drivetrain is great. I just swapped the tektro brakes for some Ultegra’s I picked up cheap as I’m taking it to the alps this month but otherwise I’d have kept them. It’s lovely and will have cost me c£500 getting via C2W which is a steal.

A helmet peak will make you look up too high and give you neck-strain.

Not for the general MTB bifter who can't get into the drops without their knees banging onto their stomachs.

Genesis Croix de Fer was my choice. Not light but batters round the city and potholes. Good on easy off road. All the gubbins for touring and full mudguards. Will be riding in the lakes on Sunday in my flappy shorts. The shame. Good point on peak on helmet, will remove for the day.

You on the other hand have to ride around with flappy chaffey shorts, a sweaty back and a cricked neck.

There’s a guy on our club runs like that, camelback, peak, disk brakes etc.

Rucksack I'd agree - they just don't work with road bike geometry.

I fail to see the difference between a small peak on an mtb helmet (maybe not some huge enduro wing) and a peaked roadie cap. IME Roadie cap limits view more.

Double sided mtb pedals and shoes you can walk in just make more sense for most riding.  Again maybe not soft soled skate style shoes but XC shoes fine.

Likewise clothes.  For a full day out in hot weather or a short fast spin then lycra all the way but for a 2-3 hour ride to the pub no need to look like you're racing.   A pair of slimmish baggies give you more pockets and are not uncomfortable.

Wearing mountain bike clobber on a road bike won’t wind up the purists, it will just mark you out as a knobber

I do enjoy leaving FKWs with their aero helmets and clippy cloppy road shoes for dust when the traffic lights change when I'm riding the Brompton or commuter in normal clothes.

No more issue with guys riding mtb in lycra than road in baggies. Just don't get the snobbery.  Baggy mtb kit is just as much of an affectation in fairness.

Even as a man who thinks roadie gear looks ridiculous there is no way I'd go out on my road bike without it.

Not only is it far less comfy, baggie clothing slows you down significantly. Even a baggy waterproof top takes a mph off your average speed.

If you plan to bimble along at 12 mph like I planned to when I got my first road bike fair enough, but you will want to go faster for longer with less effort, and proper kit helps.

As for peak on helmet . Personally I think it obscures the view when in the drops so it's a no from me. As for mtb shoes . Far more practical than dedicated road shoes Imo, although I personally prefer the look of road shoes on a road bike, but I'm a tart and I doubt they provide any advantage.

https://www.bikeradar.com/road/gear/category/bikes/road/product/btwin-ultra-900-af-review-51987/

Honestly, for my first road bike I really would buy a planet-x or something similar - look carefully and get one with a decent groupset all round (don't be fooled just by the rear mech etc) and some not-shit wheels.  Ride it for a thousand miles at least.  You either get one that'll take a pannier or else use p-clips and don't worry because it's a cheap frame.

When/if you decide you like roadying enough and you know whether you really want to use panniers etc, you'll want a nicer frame and you'll have an idea of what you actually want.  Either change the whole bike or just get a frame at that point and rejoice !

Discs - **** yeah ! (IMO - and that's just on BB7s)

Wearing mountain bike clobber on a road bike won’t wind up the purists, it will just mark you out as a knobber

True for most clothing but some proper xc stiff shoes and mtb pedals will be fine. In fact it makes life a lot easier getting clipped in/out and also walking into the cafe is much easier.

Is that £1,000 retail value or after your chunky cycle to work discount? Anyway, generally believe at that price bracket carbon is poor and Alu is better. You might get a deal on an old model Cannondale CAAD something. Just a note, you say this will be the only road bike you ever buy. It won't. If any of the starters I know are anything to go by you'll be looking for an upgrade within 2 years. I thought the same 6 years ago and now I've just bought a £5,500 titanium bike.

I had a P-X RT57 carbon Sram Rival for my first road bike - a great light bike for £1k.

My latest Bike is a P-X Ti Tempest gravel Bike - full SRAM Force Hydrodiscs and Fulcrum 6 wheels for £1500. Designed by Mark Reilly (ex Enigma, now Reilly bikes) - a grea frame that looks beautiful too. I passed a guy on a Ti Enigma recently - he had treated himself as a milestone gift. It was £7k 😳. Granted it was Di2 & nice wheels, but his frame was more than my entire Bike.

I also have a Viner frame from P-X. It was an original old stock Viner that PX inherited when they bought the brand. Hand made in Italy from Deddaccai tubes. Looks bloody lovely! That was £600 F+F.

My point is, don’t discount P-X. If you know what you are looking at and prepared to wait, they have some ridiculously cheap deals sometimes.

As for MTB kit on a road bike - I always use XTR MTB SPDs and a pair of carbon soles XC shoes. Double sided and you can walk in the shoes. I travel the world with mine, often getting out of cities by train.

I would never wear baggies on my roadie, but I do have a selection of slightly more relaxed, elasticated clothes that I can wear if riding to a social meet-up ie - stretch jeans, semi tight stretch shorts, and a more relaxed fit top that looks semi non- roadie.

For £1k I got a Planet X RT-80 w/ SRAM Rival, pedals, shoes, track pump, inner tubes!  I did over 3000 miles in the first 12 months, 800 of which were in one week and it was comfy enough.  Admittedly, I've never ridden another road bike, but it will be a long while before the RT-80 gets replaced.