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How deep can you inject the resin with the nozzles that come on the cartridges (rawlplug r-kem ii), 12mm hole for 10mm rod. I'm just thinking theres no point me drilling too far down if i cant get the resin in!
Was planning on using 250mm sections of rod, or will i need to go shorter? ( i just decided on this size up as i have 16 fittings to drill, and if i used 250mm i get 4 per 1m rod!)
thanks
I've not used that exact kit but mine came with minimum insertion depth specified, and the nozzle was long and thin enough to go all the way in.
does your kit not come with the rods? Mine were probably M10/12 and not as long as 250mm - I think I probably inserted something like 100mm.
Oh and one thing to be aware of - if you are attached to blockwork with render on it the render doesn't count as part of the minimum depth
We used concrete bolts and resin to hold our glass balustrade onto the top of a brick wall. The bolts were M10 x 100mm C/sunk Head Concrete Screw. The resin was RAWLPLUG R-KEM-II-410 BONDED ANCHOR from Screwfix (I think). We drilled the holes 14mm by 200mm (drill smaller holes first to avoid blowing the bricks) to ensure they went through a few layers of brick.
Injecting the resin was no problem but the working time in short. There were bolts every 100m along a 2400mm run of mounting bracket and we could only just get all the bolts in before it started to harden. It needed a hammer and sharp chisel to remove the overspill.
i was just going to buy 1m sections of stainless rod and cut myself. I'll have to have a look at the nozzle in screwfix and maybe go shorter.
you can just pump it in to fill the hole
be sure to vac the hole to get the dust out first
With the screwfix thing, each tube comes with two nozzles each with the mixing mechanism built in. You will use both because it dries inside the nozzle really quick too.
Screwfix sell 3 or 4 different types
All go off pretty quick
Whats the problem exactly, are you concerned tje epoxy wont flow to the bottom of your hole? It will
Are you worried about pull out strength?
You dont need alot 100mm is a minimum, there isno maximum but you will waste your time rod and epoxy
They do resin capsules you drop in as well, these burst when you ram the rod in
Whats the problem exactly, are you concerned tje epoxy wont flow to the bottom of your hole? It will
Are you worried about pull out strength?
You dont need alot 100mm is a minimum, there isno maximum but you will waste your time rod and epoxy
I guess im just thinking longer is stronger! Its for securing fence panel base onto blockwork wall.
Fence 120cm high, decorative composite panels (ie with a cut out pattern) so wind load shouldnt as high as with a solid fence. I'll probably go for 16cm then and cut 6 from each 1m rod
Hmmmm
For that application you may be better to drill into the second course of blocks and fix the anchor into tbose
Be alot stronger thst way, yed you will use more rod but its cheap compared to getting in a brickie to rebuild ypur wall
Someone - - greybeard-- will know best as he is an actual structural engineer
Make sure the nuts screw on to each rod before before you resin them in - the thread sometimes gets damaged when hacksawing through - then it's frustrating as anything trying to get the nut on.
4 holes for each post, I’d go way shorter, 100mm depth would be plenty. I’d go 50mm. They won’t come out, ever. The block wall strength will be the limiting factor not the resin and bolts. The advice above about hoovering hole and putting on the nuts either side of cuts v important too.
Make sure the nuts screw on to each rod before before you resin them in – the thread sometimes gets damaged when hacksawing through
It helps to put a nut on before you cut so you can screw it off to help tidy the thread
hoovering hole
Let me recommend a pump instead. These are great with a little deflector at the end to stop you getting dust in your face
They are out of stock there but you that's just to show you the device
Rod
buy the rod and cut but as said above dress the threads off either with a file or a grinder at a 45° angle.
Resin
You'd be surprised at strong they are. 200mm seems pretty deep for that diameter. 100mm seems ok. Drill the hole and get a small hole brush and puffer (I've used straws in desperation at times, but close your eyes) to blow the debris out.
I'd half full the hole (a bit of a guesstimate) then gently screw the rod in and give it a mush around to make sure it's fully coated. Wait the few mins for it to go hard and bobs your uncle.
Assuming you're using M12 rod and a 14mmdrill bit
Someone – – greybeard– will know best as he is an actual structural engineer
Ha! To do actual structural engineering I'd need to know the type of blocks, height of wall above ground, type of resin, wind exposure, etc. But some thoughts (and assuming this is following on from the OP's previous post):
The blocks will fail before the resin does, tension on the bolt just causes a cone of block to pull out. Near the edge it won't even be a full cone. So no benefit in going deep, unless as singletrackmind suggests, you go into the next layer of blocks and anchor into those (you wouldn't need resin all the way up). The weak point for blowing the fence over will probably be the first mortar joint down in the wall. But drilling through a full block depth and a bit, near the edge, you could split the block, so I would probably just drill 100mm into the top.
Consequences of failure should be a consideration - if the fence falls over in a gale, does it bend a couple of bushes? Or is the fence to stop your kids falling off a 3m drop on the far side of the wall?