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The lock on the back door is feeling a bit stiff and on the point of the key slipping. We've had a new key cut and that slips without engaging properly (2nd attempt at new key, same result). Now thinking that the barrel may be wearing out. It's a 12 y/o Safestyle original so it's lasted well for their stuff. It looks like the barrel is replaceable, anyone have any experience that they would like to share before I get busy?
You’ll need to remove holding screw on the opening edge of door located in line with barrel. Then turn key until you feel barrel slide out of the housing. You’ll then need to measure the barrel and also measure from securing screw hole on barrel it might be 50/50 or 60/40 depending. Then replace with good make (Yale) or similar otherwise you’ll be doing the same in a couple of years. Hope that makes sense.
If you're describing a Eurocylinder ubiquitous in uPVC doors then it's (almost always) a piece of pish to change. It's held in with a single screw in the door edge, right at the bottom of the lock. Take that out, then you need to put the key in the lock and turn it just so, maybe 30' off the normal resting position in one direction or the other, to align the locking pawl with the lock body so you can pull it out.
To replace it, the lock bodies are a standard bore but the lengths or not. So as above, you'll need to measure inside and outside lengths from the screw position and match it up.
Then replace with good make (Yale)
Uh-huh.
Most Eurocylinders are fundamentally shit, get an Avocet. This is the cheapest place I've found for them. https://www.barnsleylock.co.uk/avocet-abs-mk3-ultimate-cylinders-13-c.asp If you have multiple Eurocylinder-locked doors you can replace the lot (I would) and have them all on the same key.
... if you look at the image of the lock on that site you'll better see what I'm trying to describe.
On the black strip down the middle you can see the pawl sticking out of the side. That's what turns against the locking mechanism in the door when you turn the key, you need to align it with the lock body to be able to pull it out of the door. The hole for the retaining screw is directly below it.
Whilst everything Cougar says is true, 9 times out of 10 it's missing the point. If a scrote arrives at your house tooled up and intending to come in, it doesn't matter that much what the point of failure is, in fact having a sacrificial cheap lock and handle might save you from having your back door kicked in. Get the cheapest one Screwfix has that fits, and since it's a back door, having a thumb turn on the inside might be a better option, that way the key can't go walkabout.
https://www.screwfix.com/p/era-6-pin-euro-cylinder-thumbturn-40-40-80mm-satin-nickel/52077 will fit unless your door is very thick.
Make sure you buy anti snap. We got a key broken off and the locksmith came round and using mike grips he was in in under 10 seconds. They just snap at the screw. Look it up.
We recently moved in to a house and it appeared that there was no back door key and the previous owner must have just left it unlocked (he left a miriad of keys that I've yet to find the locks for yet). With the molgrips in the right place it was surprisingly east to snap.
We put a standard Eurocylinder in the back door, but replaced the front door one with a thumb turn on the inside. Reason being that if there's a fire in the night I want to be concentrating on getting my family outside quickly, not fumbling around trying to find a key and get it in the lock. The front door is at the bottom of the stairs so quickest route out.
Ignore midlifecrashes, listen to Cougar. It's more like the other way around 9 out of 10 break ins will be through a snapped or bumped euro cylinder lock. The 10th will be a amateur with no idea.
I replaced all 4 of our locks with Avocet mk3s from Barnsley lock last year after we had a break in. Luckily it was the fire brigade breaking into my garage to check the wheelie bin fire I started accidentally hadn't entered the roof space. I was out, the neighbors told me what happened or I wouldn't have known, the FB even replaced the lock and left the garage secure, not a scratch.
PS neighbours had already put the fire out but all 5 wheelie bins were puddles of melted plastic. FB were very thorough though which I mightily appreciate.
Taking Cougar's advice I have decided to replace both. Front door, barrel will slide out as per above. Rear door a different matter. Pretty stuck. Have removed the handles and squirted WD40 but it's not for budging. I guess the question is, how hard can I hit it with the hammer without heading down another rabbit hole.
I just did this yesterday. It wouldn't go in easily so I tried it from the other side, cleaned it up a bit and as I had painted rubbed the inside a bit. Some are just a bit tight, just try tapping it too, but be careful getting it stuck half way.
Sorry just reread and see it's stuck getting it out, just lightly tap it from either side. If tight getting out it will be tight getting back in.
Another nice thing with the Avocet‘s is you can get matching sets so you don’t need different keys for each door 🙂