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Thermostat has malfunctioned and will not respond at all despite battery changes. It's a digital center one but very old. Is swapping it out for a new one a DIY job or do I need an electrician or heating engineer?
Many thanks.
Simple answer is that it depends. They are usually just an open/close switch and power so easy to swap for another model but not always. Worth a go, especially if you can get hold of a manual for your boiler to confirm what the connections are. Good chance to upgrade to a smart one if you like.
Easy enough to switch out, if the back plate and wiring are standard.
I did it last summer.
I swapped for a Hive system, which has been great so far.
(stealth ad - I've got 2 spare Hive systems for sale at the moment unused boxed)
Yes, ish, kinda.
If it's like for like (or at least wired the same) then they use a common backplate and you can just swap the box on the front. If not then gets slightly more involved.
I upgraded mine from a room thermostat + drayton controller, to a Drayton wiser (would not recommend but that's a different story) which is just one box. If you can follow a wiring diagram it's easy, just isolate the wires you no longer need, put jumpers in where needed, etc. Depends to an extent on how good your original plumber was. My system is all wired into a big junction box with clear labels to say what everything is so reverse engineering it and making it do what I wanted was relatively easy once I figured out it's quirks*. If you've been left with a big chockblock connector strip screwed to some plasterboard in the cupboard, you're f****d.
*there's something about the logic that means you have to have either
Central heating
Central Hating + Hot Water
Central Heating + Hot water, but not the heating.
Why it can't just turn the boiler on, then set the mid-position valve I've no idea, but that's the way it works.
Thanks may give it a go myself by purchasing the same brand. there's one on eBay that looks identical for £35 used. If I fail am I calling heating engineer or electrician?
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Thats a standard timer. Honeywell I think, possibly re-badged as Plumb Center?
Plumb Center sell them cheaper than Honeywell.
I popped in one of those plumb centre jobs at my old house when a previous brand wireless version died. Basically plugged the new receiver into the existing cable. Easy peasy.
I'd recommend getting down plumb centre and buying a new one. If you're lucky the old receiver will be working and you can just sync the new sending unit to it.
Happy days.
Edit looks like there is a new version, but the wiring diagram is dead simple.
https://www.wolseley.co.uk/product/center-rf-wireless-programmable-boiler-thermostat/
EDIT: Ah, seen the pic.
Those Honeywell-a-like units are everywhere, you should be able to swap a new one in no bother.
Excellent thanks guys. Will give that one in the link a go.
@jeffl just realised the thermostat you linked to says it's wireless. Our current one isn't wireless so is this going to confuse matters? Is there one that would just wire in to the existing wires maybe?
Not seeing any wired ones of the same brand but maybe this would be ok? https://www.screwfix.com/p/honeywell-home-1-channel-wired-digital-room-thermostat-eco/41365?tc=WC1&gclid=CjwKCAjw8symBhAqEiwAaTA__IddGZ7ZoZJWVgIWnfhpKJgpKyHle23G_8qSIPsW1wR_DANxrNIUCBoCifkQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
The one you've linked will work but it looks like a combined controller/thermostat so it'll only work efficiently if your old controller is located on a wall in the hallway/living room/etc. Your photo looks like it might be mounted under the boiler though. From your original post I'm guessing you have a wall-mounted controller and a battery powered room thermostat in which case something like this would be perfect:
https://www.wolseley.co.uk/product/center-rf-wireless-programmable-boiler-thermostat/It should be a simple replacement job - the wiring in the old controller should be colour-coded but isn't always, if not there should be a diagram inside the case that will show you which wire is which.
IMPORTANT SAFETY TIP: turn off the electric at the mains. I once installed a new timer and the live feed was taken from a separate source to the boiler, I assumed that because the boiler was off that the live feed into the controller was also off....
Volt stick is your best tool before you start.
@TheFlyingOx the photo is of the thermostat that's located in the upstairs hallway near to the bathroom where the boiler is. It appears to have a wire leading into it hence why I was confused by the wireless product recommendation. Many thanks for your help with this!
Yeah it'll be wired directly into the boiler, if that's all you have I'm guessing you just have a 24hr/7 day on/off schedule set for your heating. If this is the case then the one you linked would work fine as long as you're happy with the landing temperature being the reference temp for the whole house.
If you wanted a tiny bit more control then the one I linked would allow you to move the thermostat to whichever room you want.
EDIT - the "wireless" bit refers to the thermostat itself. You'll always need a controller of some sort hard-wired into the boiler.
I changed mine. Even older old-skool than that, it was one of the clicky-slide analogue type ones, I changed it for a rotaty knob one, following a youtube vid. I am the most hopeless DIYer you'll ever know, but it works and I didn't electrocute myself 🙂
Thank you. Yes happy with the current temps as the landing is in the middle of the house with a floor above and one below. Much appreciated as it's tricky and expensive to get trades out for small jobs here in Brighton.