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I'm making my own, (first) quadcopter, and have bought 2 pairs of CW/CCW rotating motors. Not sure if the thread on the prop mount is the only difference, or if they are wound to rotate opposite direction too.
Anyone know if I have to cross a pair of motor wires to make one rotate opposite, or all just straight through?
Ta.
If the motor spins the wrong way, swap (any) two of the three wires over. Hey presto.
What frame are you using? I've built a blackout and I'm just starting an rcexplorer minitri, for something a little different. It's the FPV stuff I've found most challenging so far, but that's probably because I like to do it all on a shoestring. Enjoy!
[url= http://rcexplorer.se/product/minitricopter-kit/ ]swedish mini tricopter[/url]
Also trying to keep it cheap. It's primarily a project to learn how to do it, and build myself something I can practice with indoors and highly portable so I'm using a [url= https://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking/store/__85252__Diatone_Blade_150_Class_Micro_Racing_Multirotor_Frame_Kit.html ]Diatone Blade 150 frame[/url], which is quite a challenge due to the tiny size. For example I'm going to have to solder the motor cables direct to the ESC, hence the question above, I'd rather get it right the first time.
Won't bother with FPV straight off, I want to learn how to program the flight controller to make what should be a flighty little racer more stable and sedate for control and close proximity flying.
if soldering the cables, just try the motor first with ESC, swap any 2 cables (as above) if it turns the wrong way, then label them ready for trimming/soldering/heatshrinking.
friend built one of those Swedish full size tricopters (one of the original designs from that guy). had a lot of fun a few weeks back trying to tune that. and a few trips to B+Q to get several metres worth of 12mm x 12mm stock tp replace the arms that kept snapping every time it crashed.
That's the plan if I can't find an answer to my question. Will give me a bit of soldering practice if nothing else!if soldering the cables, just try the motor first with ESC, swap any 2 cables (as above) if it turns the wrong way, then label them ready for trimming/soldering/heatshrinking.
Yeah, the programming is far more complex on the tris due to imbalanced yaw moment, and non linear thrust response from the servo driven tail vector. It should be interesting, to say the least! The mini looks a little tougher than the big one, at least...