Quick skirting boar...
 

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[Closed] Quick skirting board question..

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If I rip off all the skirting in my front room (lovely, but shagged) that is back to brick, and the plasterers go right down to the floor with boards & skim...

a) if I go with a laminate floor, I assume I can just tack the tiddly skirting that finishes laminate off, to the boards?

b) if I decide on carpets, will I needed to have marked out where the wooden 'chuck' things were that the 100 year old skirting was attached to, in order to fit more substantial skirting, or can I tack/glue again?

Ta.


 
Posted : 27/11/2015 7:17 pm
 colp
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They won't go right to the floor with plaster as it sucks up damp.


 
Posted : 27/11/2015 7:23 pm
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c) should I have put this one in the chat forum?


 
Posted : 27/11/2015 7:26 pm
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I deserve damp for posting in wrong forum (would someone mind reporting please? 🙂


 
Posted : 27/11/2015 7:27 pm
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The point of the Ground (What you call Chuck)is to have something straight to plaster to; without it you will have a very wavy line at the bottom of your wall. Plaster also bells out at the bottom where less pressure can be applied by the plasterer at the start of his stroke.
beading fixed to laminate will move about as the floor expands/contracts.


 
Posted : 27/11/2015 7:39 pm
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beading fixed to laminate will move about as the floor expands/contracts.

My bad, I meant fixed to the skimmed/painted plasterboard.

So either option, I need plasterers to mark out where the 'ground' (bits of wood rammed into brickwork) are?


 
Posted : 27/11/2015 7:50 pm
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If I rip off all the skirting in my front room (lovely, but shagged) that is back to brick, and the plasterers go right down to the floor with boards & skim...

Not quite understanding this bit... 😕

But anyway, if you're taking skirting off, would you not just fit your laminate and then skirts on top? Depending on new height of skirting and whether mdf ( 😡 ) or softwood, you can just fix through the plaster into the brick behind can't you?

EDIT: ah, I see, you're talking about not having any skirting and just beading? If so, don't do it, just fit proper skirting (Ovolo would suit your house IIRC).


 
Posted : 27/11/2015 7:52 pm
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you can just fix through the plaster into the brick behind can't you?

Not for the first time, I'm going to sound stupid, but how would I fix into brick without using screws that would leave visible heads against skirting?


 
Posted : 27/11/2015 7:59 pm
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Use 'No More Nails'.
Apply pressure.
Job done....no screw heads.


 
Posted : 27/11/2015 8:01 pm
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Well, depending on the skirting you use, you might be able to just gripfill it on, but if it's something that needs screwing on:

Cut to length required.
Drill through skirting with 7mm drill bit and into wall.
Tap in a brown wall plug flush with surface of skirting.
Tap screw (say 5mm x 70ish mm) in until it's not tapping in anymore.
Drive screw in until it screws tight a few mm below surface of timber.
Fill. Sand. Paint.


 
Posted : 27/11/2015 8:04 pm
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Mark the wooden bits on the floor before they plaster.if you need to drill into brick ,countersink the hole,fill&sand.
Hopefully you don't have any lathe and plaster ..:-|


 
Posted : 27/11/2015 8:06 pm
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In practice Nae Nails etc is usually not enough to pull the skirting up to the wall unless both are very flat. If you have a compressor and 18 Brad nailer then the glue plus skewed (fired in at different angles)nails into the plaster works fine.


 
Posted : 27/11/2015 8:14 pm
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DD, top advice thank you. (and a bit obvious when you think about it 😳 ) I think I'll make sure the 'grounds' are marked out properly - seems best idea.

No lathe & plaster left in the house, nope, none. Thank ****; don't want to ever experience getting them down again.


 
Posted : 27/11/2015 8:15 pm
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🙂

Not that obvious bn. I was amazed how easy it was when somebody showed me. 😮

Anyway, shorter lengths should gripfill on, but it'll depend on how nicely your plasterers finish the last twelve inches or so. An sds drill (as mentioned millions of times here) should fly through the timber and bricks. Just be careful of it vibrating the skirting out of position as you drill.


 
Posted : 27/11/2015 8:32 pm
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If you use taller sections of softwood skirting I'd use two screws, one towards the top of the flat face, and one towards the bottom

On a long run you sometimes find that the middle of the skirting bows up and away from the floor. Get a short plank and slope it from the top of the skirting to the floor, ask someone to stand on the plank while you drill and screw (but don't get your fingers underneath!)


 
Posted : 28/11/2015 6:46 am
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Just plug and screw it its the proper way. Anyone who just gripfills skirting on is bodging. And as timba says above its nice to keep the skirting square, I always use a short offcut held upright on the floor and then against the skirting to check for this.


 
Posted : 28/11/2015 7:23 am
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Get a plug cutter set from screwfix.

Drill hole in skirting with the drill bit. Cut a plug from a bit of scrap skirting with the cutter bit.

Rawlplug and screw skirting to wall. Tap the plug in chisel off and sand smooth.

Don't glue the plug in.

Easy and very tidy.


 
Posted : 28/11/2015 8:18 am
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My new office project would mean that the skirting would be fitted onto plasterboard which is fitted onto 70mm kingspan which is glued to the wall.
How should I fit the skirting - dry lining plugs??


 
Posted : 28/11/2015 8:31 am
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@sharkbait - yep, just use rawlplugs designed for plasterboard/dry lined walls.


 
Posted : 28/11/2015 8:37 am
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TOP TIP, buy the longest lengths of skirt you can get, cut longest pieces first smaler bits off off cuts, alos as its sometimes a problem to get long skirt into house through doors , use the window its a lot easier than trying to bend round doorways


 
Posted : 28/11/2015 11:29 am

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