[Closed] Protecting wooden work surface ???

We use Danish oil on our oak worktop.

Osmo Top Oil is the good stuff.
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Will cost you around £11 for a can that size, but it covers a large area.
Completely non-toxic and no nasty fumes.

Thanks guys
Am i asking to much of the product but will the above recommendations stop
marks such as hot cups of tea ( holds hands up )

Osmo stuff is the best

How do these wooden work tops holdup? Do you have to be 'too' careful no hot pans, spillages etc. I've just cleaned up some blood from the meat that got onto the top, would that be a problem with wood?

Just checked it out
it recommends applying a base coat first osmo wr base coat
is this the way to go , or just apply the finish

Thanks

[i]Am i asking to much of the product but will the above recommendations stop
marks such as hot cups of tea ( holds hands up ) [/i]

Try this product:

[url= http://www.kitchenworktopsonline.co.uk/Oasis.htm ]here[/url]

IME Top Oil is fine with hot cups of tea, spills, water, ketchup, red wine, blood etc

I've never risked putting a hot pan straight onto it though, I'm pretty sure that would scorch the wood.

Just checked it out
it recommends applying a base coat first osmo wr base coat
is this the way to go , or just apply the finish

We just did three thorough coats of Top Oil to start with then a top up after about four months.

After that you just keep an eye on it and apply another coat when you notice that water is beading less than normal on it. In our experience this means roughly once or twice a year (it's a pretty quick job too).

We use Danish oil - seems to be reasonably resistant to stain/hot cups etc but I wouldn't risk a hot frying pan on anything short of stainless steel. When we had ours done they left some offcuts which we've tidied up and use as a sacrificial surface where we might want to put pans down etc. If I was starting again I'd probably use the Osmo stuff - we used Osmo oil on our oak staircase and it seems to be bullet proof.

How do these wooden work tops holdup?

Like any wood they can be damaged but unlike some worktops it's easy to fix scratches and marks with some sandpaper and a new coat of oil, or just leave them and count it as "character"!

Water sitting on the worktop round the back of the sink is by far the biggest problem with these woktops; make sure you wipe up any droplets each time you use the sink.
As suggested, Osmo is the one product that beads water in the longterm.
A pot coming off the hob will have a temperature of several hundred degrees underneath...
Make sure your dishwasher has a steam plate/foil attached to underside of worktop and don't open DW untill it's cooled down a bit!

The main thing is to apply oil for every couple of days for a couple of weeks when new and then re-apply every 6 months or so especially around sinks or where water may pool. I apply leave to dry then use a wet and dry and then when dry re-apply next coat of oil. 7 or 8 treatments and you get a really deep shiny finish that lasts.. I use Danish oil but linseed or other more expensive branded oils as above are good too. Hot pans are a 100% no no they will scorch the wood. I have a couple of large off cuts I use as chopping blocks and a couple of slate off cuts from the floor for use under pans.

The main thing is to apply oil for every couple of days for a couple of weeks when new and then re-apply every 6 months

Maybe for Danish Oil, but overkill for Top Oil to be honest (because it is more of a wax). [url= http://www.osmouk.com/osmopolyx.cfm?chapter=29 ]Osmo say 2 coats (by brush) is plenty[/url], which matches my experience.

Top oil sounds a hell of a lot easier then maybe I'll try that next time.

http://www.diydoctor.org.uk/projects/treatwtops.htm

Useful if you use another oil instead.

+1 osmo. Big advantage is it contains dryers so much quicker than Danish/teAk etc

What worktop can you put abhor pan on? Our steel is backed with mdf so that's a no. You risk cracking granite or similar, melting Formica(?). Get a trivet.

If you have some bare wood and need to do something with it, you'll never be far off with an Osmo product. Doors. Floors. Staircases. Worktops. Their stuff is fantastic. Why only this morning, I did this with Osmo:

[IMG] [/IMG]

I fitted a Wickes kitchen 2 yrs ago and used the teak oil they supplied to treat the solid oak worktop that I specced from them.

Applied the oil a couple of times when new and probably every 6 months after that.

The worktop is very resilient, it does not mark at all with hot cups of tea or hot pans, although I would stick a frying pan onto it right off the stove to be sure.

As long as you are sensible and use chopping boards etc it should last a long time.

Don't be tempted to use Ronseal's worktop sealant unless you want to be re-applying it every six weeks rather than every six months.

Danish oil is better.

I use olive oil. Easy enough to apply that I don't mind doing it more often.

Danish oil.........but you really need to have applied b4 fitting as you need to seal both top and bottom, especially around water based appliances ( washer, dishwasher) ideally a barrier papaer should be put near these too, if you dont bother and think you can cut the corners you will soon have some lovely bendy boards....

How we finish how Bespoke wooden surfaces is using 50% White spirit
and 50 % Danish oil.
Oil this combo for 7 days, and also sand with a fine grit paper
before you put on the next coat.

Using white spirit at first raises the grain of the timber and allows the Danish oil to penetrate into the timber easier.

Then use 100 % Danish oil each day until the surface cannot hold
any more, also sanding with a fine grit paper as above.

DO NOT pure the oil directly onto the wooden surface And DO NOT pure
on neat.
Make sure you coat the under side too, and you can use neat oil here.

Doing the above intructions will give you a finish as though it was
sprayed Lacqured