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Plumber came between Christmas and new year and fitted a new toilet inlet valve.
It’s dripping which would be fine, except the toilet overflows into the garage.
As far as I can tell the diaphragm is correctly seated. Is there any quick fix I can try to sort this?
Is it the cistern overflow? If so you should be able to adjust the position of the ballcock to make it shut off the water sooner.
Or is the valve itself constantly leaking?
If its a ball cock with a brass rod then there's a white plastic threaded bolt and lock nut.
Push down the big orange ball and screw out the white bolt a few mm's.
If its a bottom entry fill valve then you can usually lower the hole assembly on a series of rings
@theflyingox With the float arm all the way up, it still drips from the valve spout
@singletrackmind It’s top fill, cheap and nasty plastic rather than brass. I’ve had it to bits as I thought I might be able to adjust the valve but all I can see is a rubber diaphragm with a rod on the back, and a plastic cap with the lever hinge in it and a small hole that the lever blocks when horizontal?
Surely it should overflow either into the, er, overflow (white plastic pipe at the back) or overflow into the toilet soil pipe. But it shouldn't just overflow into the garage?
There’s a “yes, but” there.
Toilet is old so doesn’t overflow into the bowl or the soil pipe, which would make the drip annoying rather than a problem.
As much of the work on this house before we got it was evidently done by people who arrived on horseback the overflow pipe runs through the wall into the garage and exhausts on the floor by the door. It only took me 12 years to realise what the pipe in the garage was for.
If I could stop the inlet dripping, then it wouldn’t be overflowing of course…
Side entry fill valve. Are you certain that the black liquorice allsort diaphragm is not split.
Still should be adjustable somehow
Pic would be helpful
Or sku on screw fix website. It is a 5 digi code in brackets after the main description
64191?
Might just be a shoddy valve then. Get the plumber back.
Have messaged him. If I don’t hear then it will be a follow up with ‘come and sort this or it’ll be a bad review on Rated People’ (turned up three hours late, charged an extortionate fee for a non-urgent half hour job and evidently used a part that cost buttons…)
No self respecting plumber fits a fill valve with a plastic shank. Prone to stripping.
Have you tried adjusting the float so it sits lower in the water, ie make the rod longer.
Its bottom entry btw. You do mot need a plumber. You can diy this.
Aye, it’s become apparent I can do this myself. I’ve lowered the float to see if that helps - should mean it takes longer to overflow which is a partial fix.
Just pissed off that I’ve paid through the nose for a half arsed job. Assuming there’s no way I can tweak this, if I was going to go to ScrewFix and get a less crappy valve which one should I buy?
47792
Ta!
From the description of a rushed job it could be that some jointing compound is causing a problem. With the Flowmaster bottom fillers they recommend that the water is isolated, remove the cap and cover with a glass. Then flush it through by turning the water on briefly to remove any crud produced by the fitting process. Then refit the cap and re-instate the supply.
Is the valve on mains pressure? It’s needs a decent amount of pressure to shut, check the strainer that is fitted in that valve and check the pin is going into the hole in the washer correctly.
Failing that change it for a fluidmaster, change the siphon too for one with an internal overflow to prevent it happening again would be my advice.
@Bear Mains pressure round here is high rather than low. It more or less shuts off but there's a persistent drip.
How big a job is changing the siphon bearing in mind I take to DIY like a pig takes to ice skating (and also what siphon for a lever flush)?
I assume I can get some sort of stopper for the existing overflow?
20 mins.
Isolate water inlet.
Flush bog.
Sponge out remains of water into pan.
Unscrew existing flexy.
Unscrew locking nut
Remove offending fill valve.
Replace with shiney one.
Check you have the O ring on the correct side of the cistern
Tighten up with spanner
Screw on flexy, there rubber washered sp shouldn't need ptfe or white hawk
Open oso valve.
Mavel in your new found diy prowess.
Go to medal drawer, select medal
@singletrackmind Cheers! Any particular thoughts on which flush valve or are they all much of a muchness? And how do I tell if they've got a built-in overflow?
Also could do with putting an inline isolator into the water feed as the existing flexy doesn't have one. Have done this before with taps so presumably it's not that hard...
IANAP
Forget flush valves, stick one of these in, simplifies the whole process, you push the lever, the flap lifts, the water goes out. If it gets grit or scale in it you can just reach in and wipe it clean, or if the flap itself were to split or degrade, you can put a new one from above on without separating the cistern. I own about six of these, oldest at least 15 years and never had a problem.
https://www.screwfix.com/p/fluidmaster-toilet-flush-valve-handle-kit/50692
Change the flush valve is level 2 stuff. For a complete internals replacement the cistern comes off the bog.
The new bits bolted in, new doughnut, new pan connection bolts. It is doable, but harder.
I just sell the hardware but have ripped out and refitted bathrooms.
We sell a complete kit, new fill valve amd siphon. Or go back to the 70s and fit one of dem things up there.
Just change the fill valve. No need to go crazy. Then go and do some more interesting stuf.
So, done successfully. Thought I would try and put in an isolation valve while I was at it but don’t know what this fitting is?
https://photos.app.goo.gl/HX2HkuZPPZfynUXGA
Not sure what size it is but it looks like a push fit flexi
Should get the callipers out and measure.
Assuming it is, if I wanted to change it, is it just a matter of giving it a good heave and then pushing the new one on?
15mm push fit. SF sell them with isolation valve built in. Or jusy go compression 15mm to 1/2in bsp with isolation valves
To remove what you have. Water off in house. Depressurise by flushing.
Lift up grey collar till it clicks.
Remove pipe. Refit new.
Or buy a push fit iso valve and fit that. You'll need to cut 10cm off copper off. Clean the pipe.
Push on iso valve.
Push in 10cm stub.
Push on existing JG flexy.
Open stop cock and run like the wind to see if its leaking
Plastic pipe at the bottom if that changes anything?
In that case just buy a service valved flexy. With jg speed fit 15mm to 1/2in connections
Thanks again!