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It appears that our motorised valve on the central heating is 'playing up'. Standard boiler, hot water tank and 3 way valve on the wall next to it (and associated pipework).
We've noticed the upstairs radiators come on when just the hot water is on - turned off the radiators and the downstairs ones are now warm - so it's not all the rads so I'm suspecting the valve isn't fully closing on the heating circuit when only hot water requested.
Fairly dumb system with termostat, and a timer, 27 plus years old.
It looks like I have stop taps on all the pipes leading to the valve, so I shouldn't need to drain the system, just isolate the valve (don't want to as it I drained it last year and all new inhibitor put in).
Easy DIY job ? Only issue I can see is wiggling the pipes enough to get the old valve out and new in before tightening back up.
The valve has been there 27 years so can't complain.
Just need to check how many connecting wires - I suspect 5 as it can do heating only, hot water only, and both. Suspect poor seal on ball or stuck on open to both.
Is there a manual 3 position switch on the valve motor you can use on the summer ? (It has been a few years since I had a hot water tank so apologies if nonsense).
There is a switch - auto and manual - manual puts it to 'both heat and water.
It will most liley be the actuator which sits on top of the valve with the black cable going to it(they are nearly always black).
Depending on what make and type it is, you may be able to just buy a new actuator. Post some pics, and show the top of it if its Honeywell. If its Honeywell, and has a pip on the top, it can be changed, if it is a flat top, then you need to change the whole valve. Other makes have their own rules. Put up a pic.
Honeywell. Just got a genuine Synchron actuator motor for £23.99. Currently so far so good, HW back on, running water off, boiler on, no radiators getting warm.
Fingers crossed.