Plastering over a k...
 

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Plastering over a knackered wall

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I removed a tiled splashback from the wall in our bathroom. Builders had stuck tiles onto plasterboard which is still there but it's obviously a bit knackered, some paper has ripped off and there are a few holes. It's about 60cm square.

Shall I buy a small tub of plaster and a plasterer's trowel and give it a go just smoothing it over? Is there anything I need to know?

Or am I better off cutting the lot out and just replacing with another bit? I've done this before a number of times with ceilings and got good results. House is a 2007 build.


 
Posted : 31/03/2023 8:03 pm
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I am not a professional plaster but I can plaster over perfectly smooth plaster board and leave a pretty good finish. I was taught how to do this by two experienced plasterers. Not sure anyone would pay me, but I've done jobs for friends and family for free and they've been very happy.

I don't think I would get a good finish plastering over a knackered wall. Would probably take ages and cost a lot in sand paper and be a bodge. Eventually it would probably crack. Obviously depends how bad it is.

I'd probably chip it all off, stick some plasterboard up and then skim over the top of that and feather it in to the existing plaster.

If you do decide to skim it, don't buy a small tub of plaster. In my experience it doesn't cover as much as you think and works out more expensive. Just buy a bag of plaster and mix what you need. Fill the holes with filler first and sand back before skimming.


 
Posted : 31/03/2023 8:10 pm
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What are you doing just painting it...

If so I'd probably just cut it out new board and skim it. Boards not dear

If it's behind a sink I might go for a cement board too


 
Posted : 31/03/2023 8:28 pm
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Most of it will be behind the new splashback but the sink is moving about 7cm to the left so there might be a few exposed cms.


 
Posted : 31/03/2023 8:29 pm
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If it is rough you really need to use a backing plaster fiat to get it straight before putting ona finish plaster. I think Thistle bonding is max 11mm thickness so if it's rougher than that you will need to build it up.

Not a plaster but have done a bit / can do a bit

Edit. Note to get the binding flat you will want to rule off. Note the backing plaster is all about getting a FLAT surface the top coat is for smooth.


 
Posted : 31/03/2023 8:51 pm
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The way to ensure that the job looks great when finished could be a larger splashback.
If is was in our house I'd be asking my other half if she could extend the tiling a bit when done. She's good at tiling and my finishing sometimes lacks finesse 😉


 
Posted : 31/03/2023 10:57 pm
 bigh
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Some of the plaster ready-mix tubs are horrible to use. Get gyproc easyfill powder with a caulking blade and thank me later.


 
Posted : 01/04/2023 7:28 am
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Easi fill is the answer.
Pva it first to seal it to reduce any suction. Then easifill, if its deep say 10mm plus do 2 coats.
You need really clean tools and buckets. Some old towels to cover the nearby areas
Dont do it on a hot day and try to avoid direct sunlight. Don't rush any stage, allow first fix to dry over night


 
Posted : 01/04/2023 7:37 am
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I am an ex-plasterer, I assume by paper you mean the top layer on the plasterboard. Just replace the board and fill, that will be quickest tbh.


 
Posted : 01/04/2023 7:42 am
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I am an ex-plasterer, I assume by paper you mean the top layer on the plasterboard. Just replace the board and fill, that will be quickest tbh. PS; always buy either multi finish or board finish and just mix what you need.


 
Posted : 01/04/2023 7:43 am
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Hello,
Gyproc Easyfill is the answer, you can sand it back afterwards. Use decorators chaulk to fill gaps around the edge, push slightly below the surface, allow to dry then apply easy fill. Can be sanded back with 120 grit sanding pad. Don’t be to heavy with the sanding or you will damage the boards underneath. Allow easy fill to dry fully before sanding.
Hope that helps.


 
Posted : 01/04/2023 8:28 am
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There's a lot of sledgehammer to crack a hazelnut answers above imo. cement board for a sink splash back, wtf?

I'd go with the easifill and sanding answer for anything exposed, allow plenty of drying time. Preferable to anything involving actual skimming as I doubt you'll get a good enough finish and it's not the correct answer to a spot repair really. Any small holes behind the tiling can be filled with tile adhesive as you retile, assuming you didn't use the aforementioned sledge hammer to take the tiles off?


 
Posted : 01/04/2023 12:45 pm

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